Author Topic: New 12'X19' shop (Read 12175 times)

Joelm · « **Reply #30 on:** February 13, 2021, 12:35 PM »

Here is a quick update.
Finished DriCore. This was super easy to install and shim. I used my Carvex to scribe the edge panels.

I was able to grab some samples of cork flooring from a local shop. I'm glad I did and did not just go from the photos they sent. I'm leaning towards the reddish sample. I think having some warm looking floors will make the space look more inviting. My second pick is the dark brown. Not interested in the concrete grey or whites. The yellow looks too much like osb. Not really something I want to look at day in and day out for the price it costs.

I'm thinking I'll cover the exposed concrete with rigid insulation and then probably build cabinets the whole length of that wall. Just deep enough to hold a single systainer and the worktop would be just shy of the first french cleat on the wall. Maybe I should stick my Kapex there instead of having it on a cart. Just a thought for now.

JD2720 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 13, 2021, 12:39 PM »

Looking good.

Dane · « **Reply #32 on:** February 13, 2021, 05:58 PM »

Shop is looking good. Couple of thoughts on the cork. I’ve used a lot of different styles and I find that the glue down stuff is way more durable and significantly cheaper than the floating. It’s also super easy to install. Sometimes it’s as low as .99 per foot at lumber liquidators. But- cork is slippery as all get out when sawdust gets on it- I mean like ice skating slippery. Something to consider.

Joelm · « **Reply #33 on:** February 13, 2021, 08:32 PM »

Hey thanks for the reply. That's why I'm posting here so I don't make a costly mistake.
So the cork in looking at is a floating floor by a company called Torlys Cork. Dimensions are 1/2" x 7-1/2" x 45 13/16". The Elite style is $6.89 sq ft. Torlys recommends a top coat that has slip resistant property.
I'm also looking at their lower tier which is closer to$5 but isn't as thick.
Are you worried about durability with heavy machinery? Or is it bad with daily use in say a kitchen? I have mostly light weight mobile tools no heavy table saw or jointer and the space is too small for that anyway. The heaviest thing in my shop will be the workbench I make this spring for hand tool woodworking.
I'm also weary of glue down as I don't want anything that's too difficult to tear up in maybe 10-15 years if we move.
Would cork be as slippery as some other flooring like lvp or engineered hardwood?
I did get a quote for unfinished ash hardwood but thought it would be a lot more work to lay down and it would be more prone to movement. Maybe I'm wrong?

John Russell · « **Reply #34 on:** February 14, 2021, 09:23 AM »

I recently moved and have a basement workspace (12x22) about the same size as yours. It has concrete floors and a. block wall to the outside with a couple small windows. My tools include, jointer, planer, table saw, Kapex, and a couple MFTs plus some tool chests. I sold my Delta dust collector before moving with the intent of getting something new at my current location. My table saw has a 52 inch fence that I plan to cut down to 30 or 36" so I have more shop room. I have yet to decide on what to do for storage so some of your ideas are helpful

I am thinking about an epoxy or vinyl click together floor since I need something to accommodate the larger machines.

I am curious about your dust collection choice and did you consider any other options other than the Dust Right?

Joelm · « **Reply #35 on:** February 14, 2021, 11:00 AM »

Hi John,

I did consider the onieda mini gorilla but that would just be another cart on wheels that takes up floor space. The dust right does a decent job when paired with a cyclone.

In my old shop I discarded the wye connector that attaches to the dust collector itself and bought a 6" flexible hose to run down to my cyclone. The wye that comes with the collector reduced the pipe to 4" even though the inlet is 6". I also rotated the collector 90 degrees so that the inlet was straight down to the cyclone. After I did this I noticed a nice improvement in airflow. I haven't had time to figure anything like that out in my new shop yet. Most of my tools only require my Festool dust extractors. I've got a CT26, CT15, and CT SYS.

I didn't want epoxy floors because of how cold it gets here. The Dricore is working well for insulation but I'm second guessing my choice of cork flooring. Argh hate second thoughts.

John Russell · « **Reply #36 on:** February 14, 2021, 02:40 PM »

I like your idea of a wall mounted dust collector in a space that size, makes sense. The Oneida machine you mentioned is on my list too, but I'm early in the shopping stage and making a short list of possibilities. I use dust collection one machine at a time for the table saw, planer, and jointer and use one Ct22 (yep it is old) for MFT work and I have another CT22 dedicated to the Kapex.

Good point about epoxy being a colder floor material. Last night here (Northern Wisconsin) the air temperature was -26 degrees, the high today will go all the up to -5. Just moved here from California, so it is something of an experience......

Nice work on your shop space.

Dane · « **Reply #37 on:** February 14, 2021, 03:59 PM »

Cork is pretty durable no matter what, I’ve just found the floating stuff to be more prone to denting. And yes, definitely as slippery as engineered. Any of those prefinished products will be slick. I’ve had good luck with Bona Traffic floor finishes. They have one with an additive that decreases slickness. I’ve seen unfinished cork tiles before, that with the bona on top would be a great combo. The bona is an easy finish to lay down and dries to walkable in a couple of hours.

Joelm · « **Reply #38 on:** February 15, 2021, 12:15 PM »

Thanks for the reply Dane. So glue down would be ideal but not necessary. I don't want something that is difficult to remove if I decided to sell years from now.
I'll definitely check out Bona Traffic with that additive. The flooring shop is closed today for a holiday but I'll be calling first thing tomorrow with my order. Hopefully I'll get it later this week and start laying down floor by the weekend.
I'll keep you posted.

omasou · « **Reply #39 on:** February 19, 2021, 07:24 PM »

When I started finishing my basement, where my workshop will be, I painted the walls with DryLok Extreme and the floor with DryLok Protector. UGL said to not use the normal DryLok on the floor b/c if water did try to come up it would cause the floor to heave. The DryLok Protector breaths. I then covered the majority of the basement in DriCore, great stuff. My hope is that if I do get some water the DryLok will let it flow under the DriCore and dry instead of saturating the concrete. I glued 2" Foamular to the walls using the PL foam glue mentioned earlier, then spray foamed the joist cavities, and studded in front of the Foamular and anchored through the DriCore. The basement is MUCH warmer though still sweatshirt chilly in the winter at least until I finish the rest.

Since I did this over a period of time, I noticed that the biggest improvement for basement AND whole house warmth was spray foaming the joist cavities.

Really like the BB walls and cleats and really interested in how the floating cork flooring works out.

Joelm · « **Reply #40 on:** March 04, 2021, 08:52 AM »

Update: I just finished a bottle of sealer on the floors. I ended up buying the Torly's sealer as it was way cheaper than buying a big tub of Bona Traffic HD ($30). I do notice that the floors are not a slippery with the sealer. I'll give it a few days to work with it and if I do end up slipping I'll get the HD with anti slip.
I think the floors look amazing! I'm so glad I chose the warm brown it makes the shop feel warmer. Just to be sure it is -11C out this morning and the shop is a decent 8C. If I was able to work out there this morning my little shop heater would be enough to heat the space. I have to work on the transition to the garage door and rebuild some stairs into the house. I'm currently using a folding foot stool my kids use to need.
Can't wait to get back to work.

jobsworth · « **Reply #41 on:** March 04, 2021, 08:17 PM »

Looks good buddy

Joelm · « **Reply #42 on:** April 02, 2021, 06:47 PM »

My wife has wanted to buy me a drill press for years and finally decided to for my birthday. I made a quick little cabinet and decided to mount it to the wall.

Since I was mounting one thing to the wall I might as well build out a bunch more cabinets and make it a miter saw, drill press and eventually router table. I've also run out of plywood. I'll be picking some up tomorrow to make a final cabinet next to the drill press.

Pretty standard cabinets and Systainer storage. I still have to make shelves and drawers. I'm going to live with it for a while before committing to a permanent solution. I've brought my router lift out of storage and found an unused miter/t-track extrusion.

The only interesting thing that I added was I liked the Kapex extensions but don't use them all the time. When I do need them, the Kapex comes out on heavy duty lockable drawer extensions so I can fit the Kapex extensions on. When not in use I can store them neatly behind the Kapex with some magnets imbedded in the wall.

jobsworth · « **Reply #43 on:** April 02, 2021, 09:37 PM »

Looking good buddy

jarbroen · « **Reply #44 on:** April 27, 2021, 11:33 AM »

I really like the Kapex pull-out, that's super clever!

And I'm definitely copying your battery charger box idea! I was going to build a huge, flat board to hold all my chargers... I'm glad I saw your space saving box first.

RobS888 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 27, 2021, 06:13 PM »

Quote from: DeformedTree on January 21, 2021, 04:48 PM

Quote from: Joelm on January 21, 2021, 04:42 PM

I really was liking how the plywood walls were looking but there were two issues I was running into. The first was that my 4'x8' sheets left me with about 1' of bare wall at the ceiling. The other issue was the echo in the workshop was really pronounced. My wife suggested I try out some sound dampening foam to reduce the echo. As luck would have it a 12X12" pyramid sheet of foam fit the space perfectly. It also greatly reduced the echo. Win win!

(Attachment Link)
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How about installing a large fluffy dog in the shop, like a Newfoundland, should absorb sound.

My goofy Newfy makes noise that can be heard for blocks. Not good in a small room. He knows he is too big for my wife's 200 square foot workshop.

George K · « **Reply #46 on:** July 14, 2021, 01:53 PM »

Fantastic shop and great use of the space!

Joelm · « **Reply #47 on:** September 16, 2021, 09:42 AM »

I thought I'd post an update and ask for opinions.

I recently upgraded the house to 220A service in preparation for some HVAC upgrades. While the electrician was already here I got him to upgrade my shops wiring.

He first installed a sub panel which I need because I'm also getting a mini split in the shop next week.

I had him run a line down each wall. One side had 2 outlets at 110V.

The other wall has 3 outlets. 2 at 110V and the third I wanted 220V for next year when I will buy a cabinet tablesaw.

The problem I ran into yesterday was the side of the wall with the 3 outlets are all 110V and all off of the same 15 amp breaker. I was ripping some pine 2x4's with my sawstop JSS Pro and my CT26 when all of a sudden I tripped the breaker. This happened twice during the day. I'm a little upset as I just paid to get my shop upgraded, I should be able to run any machine from any plug in my small shop and never worry about tripping a breaker.

I originally asked him to put each outlet on it's own breaker. He looked at me like I was a bit crazy. So he suggested all the plugs on the right would be on 1 breaker and all the plugs on the left on the second breaker. For the 220V outlet I asked for he wired it up as a 110V and said when I get my new saw to call and he'll swap out the plug. The 220V/110V outlet is also joined at the subpanel to the 2 other 110V plugs on the left wall all sharing the same 15 amp breaker.

I reached out to him last night and he said he could put decouple and install in a new breaker for the 220V/110V outlet. That sounds ok but I'm wondering if I should tell him to go back to my original idea of a breaker for each outlet. Or upgrade all of the 15 amp breakers to a 20 amp or 30 amp breaker. I want flexibility in my small shop so I can rearrange and plug any machine into any plug and not have to worry about tripping a breaker. Any ideas would be appreciate.

Small rant, I'm also a bit peeved that he left me the old panel and all of the garbage from the job to dispose of instead of hauling it away himself.

tsmi243 · « **Reply #48 on:** September 16, 2021, 11:54 AM »

I wired my garage with only 2 circuits, but they alternate. So it's almost as good as individual branch circuits, but only takes up 2 spots in the circuit panel.

If you expect to possibly have all of your tools on at the same time, you might need individual circuits (like if you run a school, or something), but for single person use, just having your tools isolated from your vacs is really all you need.

I did 2-gang boxes everywhere, and each one has 2 duplex outlets- I color coded them white and grey, as a reminder to plug in separately.

Alanbach · « **Reply #49 on:** September 16, 2021, 12:57 PM »

@Joelm If your electrician used heavy enough wire I would definitely recommend that you upgrade your 110V receptacles and breakers to 20amp as this would serve you much better in the long term. Tools like 110V table saws, dust collectors and other higher draw tools will share service so much better on a 20 amp service.

bcrawley · « **Reply #50 on:** September 16, 2021, 02:07 PM »

I'm setting up a shop in a new home. There are preexisting 15 amp outlets; I will have an electrician run some 20 Amp outlets and a 220 V outlet soon (still putting in a floor right now).

I've noticed the lights dim when I turn on the table saw on the 15 amp outlet. So I'd guess a 20 amp would serve you (and me!) much better. Also since the light dimming coincides with turning the machine on, then settles... you might get by in the short term with turning the saw on, waiting a few seconds, then turning the vac on... so the initial surge isn't happening at the same time. Not a long term solution but might work until the electrician returns.

I've been using wide open garage doors and a mask for dust control, until I can get the lines run, but as the weather turns that's going to be less viable. I figured adding a dust collector too would just flip the breaker.

jhuh63tango · « **Reply #51 on:** September 20, 2021, 02:24 PM »

Quote from: Joelm on April 02, 2021, 06:47 PM

My wife has wanted to buy me a drill press for years and finally decided to for my birthday. I made a quick little cabinet and decided to mount it to the wall.
(Attachment Link)

Since I was mounting one thing to the wall I might as well build out a bunch more cabinets and make it a miter saw, drill press and eventually router table. I've also run out of plywood. I'll be picking some up tomorrow to make a final cabinet next to the drill press.
(Attachment Link)

Pretty standard cabinets and Systainer storage. I still have to make shelves and drawers. I'm going to live with it for a while before committing to a permanent solution. I've brought my router lift out of storage and found an unused miter/t-track extrusion.

The only interesting thing that I added was I liked the Kapex extensions but don't use them all the time. When I do need them, the Kapex comes out on heavy duty lockable drawer extensions so I can fit the Kapex extensions on. When not in use I can store them neatly behind the Kapex with some magnets imbedded in the wall.
(Attachment Link)

Wow, this looks great! Please keep posting on the progress.