Author Topic: New 12'X19' shop (Read 16272 times)

Joelm · « **Reply #30 on:** February 13, 2021, 12:35 PM »

Here is a quick update.
Finished DriCore. This was super easy to install and shim. I used my Carvex to scribe the edge panels.

I was able to grab some samples of cork flooring from a local shop. I'm glad I did and did not just go from the photos they sent. I'm leaning towards the reddish sample. I think having some warm looking floors will make the space look more inviting. My second pick is the dark brown. Not interested in the concrete grey or whites. The yellow looks too much like osb. Not really something I want to look at day in and day out for the price it costs.

I'm thinking I'll cover the exposed concrete with rigid insulation and then probably build cabinets the whole length of that wall. Just deep enough to hold a single systainer and the worktop would be just shy of the first french cleat on the wall. Maybe I should stick my Kapex there instead of having it on a cart. Just a thought for now.

JD2720 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 13, 2021, 12:39 PM »

Looking good.

Dane · « **Reply #32 on:** February 13, 2021, 05:58 PM »

Shop is looking good. Couple of thoughts on the cork. I’ve used a lot of different styles and I find that the glue down stuff is way more durable and significantly cheaper than the floating. It’s also super easy to install. Sometimes it’s as low as .99 per foot at lumber liquidators. But- cork is slippery as all get out when sawdust gets on it- I mean like ice skating slippery. Something to consider.

Joelm · « **Reply #33 on:** February 13, 2021, 08:32 PM »

Hey thanks for the reply. That's why I'm posting here so I don't make a costly mistake.
So the cork in looking at is a floating floor by a company called Torlys Cork. Dimensions are 1/2" x 7-1/2" x 45 13/16". The Elite style is $6.89 sq ft. Torlys recommends a top coat that has slip resistant property.
I'm also looking at their lower tier which is closer to$5 but isn't as thick.
Are you worried about durability with heavy machinery? Or is it bad with daily use in say a kitchen? I have mostly light weight mobile tools no heavy table saw or jointer and the space is too small for that anyway. The heaviest thing in my shop will be the workbench I make this spring for hand tool woodworking.
I'm also weary of glue down as I don't want anything that's too difficult to tear up in maybe 10-15 years if we move.
Would cork be as slippery as some other flooring like lvp or engineered hardwood?
I did get a quote for unfinished ash hardwood but thought it would be a lot more work to lay down and it would be more prone to movement. Maybe I'm wrong?

John Russell · « **Reply #34 on:** February 14, 2021, 09:23 AM »

I recently moved and have a basement workspace (12x22) about the same size as yours. It has concrete floors and a. block wall to the outside with a couple small windows. My tools include, jointer, planer, table saw, Kapex, and a couple MFTs plus some tool chests. I sold my Delta dust collector before moving with the intent of getting something new at my current location. My table saw has a 52 inch fence that I plan to cut down to 30 or 36" so I have more shop room. I have yet to decide on what to do for storage so some of your ideas are helpful

I am thinking about an epoxy or vinyl click together floor since I need something to accommodate the larger machines.

I am curious about your dust collection choice and did you consider any other options other than the Dust Right?

Joelm · « **Reply #35 on:** February 14, 2021, 11:00 AM »

Hi John,

I did consider the onieda mini gorilla but that would just be another cart on wheels that takes up floor space. The dust right does a decent job when paired with a cyclone.

In my old shop I discarded the wye connector that attaches to the dust collector itself and bought a 6" flexible hose to run down to my cyclone. The wye that comes with the collector reduced the pipe to 4" even though the inlet is 6". I also rotated the collector 90 degrees so that the inlet was straight down to the cyclone. After I did this I noticed a nice improvement in airflow. I haven't had time to figure anything like that out in my new shop yet. Most of my tools only require my Festool dust extractors. I've got a CT26, CT15, and CT SYS.

I didn't want epoxy floors because of how cold it gets here. The Dricore is working well for insulation but I'm second guessing my choice of cork flooring. Argh hate second thoughts.

John Russell · « **Reply #36 on:** February 14, 2021, 02:40 PM »

I like your idea of a wall mounted dust collector in a space that size, makes sense. The Oneida machine you mentioned is on my list too, but I'm early in the shopping stage and making a short list of possibilities. I use dust collection one machine at a time for the table saw, planer, and jointer and use one Ct22 (yep it is old) for MFT work and I have another CT22 dedicated to the Kapex.

Good point about epoxy being a colder floor material. Last night here (Northern Wisconsin) the air temperature was -26 degrees, the high today will go all the up to -5. Just moved here from California, so it is something of an experience......

Nice work on your shop space.

Dane · « **Reply #37 on:** February 14, 2021, 03:59 PM »

Cork is pretty durable no matter what, I’ve just found the floating stuff to be more prone to denting. And yes, definitely as slippery as engineered. Any of those prefinished products will be slick. I’ve had good luck with Bona Traffic floor finishes. They have one with an additive that decreases slickness. I’ve seen unfinished cork tiles before, that with the bona on top would be a great combo. The bona is an easy finish to lay down and dries to walkable in a couple of hours.

Joelm · « **Reply #38 on:** February 15, 2021, 12:15 PM »

Thanks for the reply Dane. So glue down would be ideal but not necessary. I don't want something that is difficult to remove if I decided to sell years from now.
I'll definitely check out Bona Traffic with that additive. The flooring shop is closed today for a holiday but I'll be calling first thing tomorrow with my order. Hopefully I'll get it later this week and start laying down floor by the weekend.
I'll keep you posted.

omasou · « **Reply #39 on:** February 19, 2021, 07:24 PM »

When I started finishing my basement, where my workshop will be, I painted the walls with DryLok Extreme and the floor with DryLok Protector. UGL said to not use the normal DryLok on the floor b/c if water did try to come up it would cause the floor to heave. The DryLok Protector breaths. I then covered the majority of the basement in DriCore, great stuff. My hope is that if I do get some water the DryLok will let it flow under the DriCore and dry instead of saturating the concrete. I glued 2" Foamular to the walls using the PL foam glue mentioned earlier, then spray foamed the joist cavities, and studded in front of the Foamular and anchored through the DriCore. The basement is MUCH warmer though still sweatshirt chilly in the winter at least until I finish the rest.

Since I did this over a period of time, I noticed that the biggest improvement for basement AND whole house warmth was spray foaming the joist cavities.

Really like the BB walls and cleats and really interested in how the floating cork flooring works out.

Joelm · « **Reply #40 on:** March 04, 2021, 08:52 AM »

Update: I just finished a bottle of sealer on the floors. I ended up buying the Torly's sealer as it was way cheaper than buying a big tub of Bona Traffic HD ($30). I do notice that the floors are not a slippery with the sealer. I'll give it a few days to work with it and if I do end up slipping I'll get the HD with anti slip.
I think the floors look amazing! I'm so glad I chose the warm brown it makes the shop feel warmer. Just to be sure it is -11C out this morning and the shop is a decent 8C. If I was able to work out there this morning my little shop heater would be enough to heat the space. I have to work on the transition to the garage door and rebuild some stairs into the house. I'm currently using a folding foot stool my kids use to need.
Can't wait to get back to work.

jobsworth · « **Reply #41 on:** March 04, 2021, 08:17 PM »

Looks good buddy

Joelm · « **Reply #42 on:** April 02, 2021, 06:47 PM »

My wife has wanted to buy me a drill press for years and finally decided to for my birthday. I made a quick little cabinet and decided to mount it to the wall.

Since I was mounting one thing to the wall I might as well build out a bunch more cabinets and make it a miter saw, drill press and eventually router table. I've also run out of plywood. I'll be picking some up tomorrow to make a final cabinet next to the drill press.

Pretty standard cabinets and Systainer storage. I still have to make shelves and drawers. I'm going to live with it for a while before committing to a permanent solution. I've brought my router lift out of storage and found an unused miter/t-track extrusion.

The only interesting thing that I added was I liked the Kapex extensions but don't use them all the time. When I do need them, the Kapex comes out on heavy duty lockable drawer extensions so I can fit the Kapex extensions on. When not in use I can store them neatly behind the Kapex with some magnets imbedded in the wall.

jobsworth · « **Reply #43 on:** April 02, 2021, 09:37 PM »

Looking good buddy

jarbroen · « **Reply #44 on:** April 27, 2021, 11:33 AM »

I really like the Kapex pull-out, that's super clever!

And I'm definitely copying your battery charger box idea! I was going to build a huge, flat board to hold all my chargers... I'm glad I saw your space saving box first.

RobS888 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 27, 2021, 06:13 PM »

Quote from: DeformedTree on January 21, 2021, 04:48 PM

Quote from: Joelm on January 21, 2021, 04:42 PM

I really was liking how the plywood walls were looking but there were two issues I was running into. The first was that my 4'x8' sheets left me with about 1' of bare wall at the ceiling. The other issue was the echo in the workshop was really pronounced. My wife suggested I try out some sound dampening foam to reduce the echo. As luck would have it a 12X12" pyramid sheet of foam fit the space perfectly. It also greatly reduced the echo. Win win!

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

How about installing a large fluffy dog in the shop, like a Newfoundland, should absorb sound.

My goofy Newfy makes noise that can be heard for blocks. Not good in a small room. He knows he is too big for my wife's 200 square foot workshop.

George K · « **Reply #46 on:** July 14, 2021, 01:53 PM »

Fantastic shop and great use of the space!

Joelm · « **Reply #47 on:** September 16, 2021, 09:42 AM »

I thought I'd post an update and ask for opinions.

I recently upgraded the house to 220A service in preparation for some HVAC upgrades. While the electrician was already here I got him to upgrade my shops wiring.

He first installed a sub panel which I need because I'm also getting a mini split in the shop next week.

I had him run a line down each wall. One side had 2 outlets at 110V.

The other wall has 3 outlets. 2 at 110V and the third I wanted 220V for next year when I will buy a cabinet tablesaw.

The problem I ran into yesterday was the side of the wall with the 3 outlets are all 110V and all off of the same 15 amp breaker. I was ripping some pine 2x4's with my sawstop JSS Pro and my CT26 when all of a sudden I tripped the breaker. This happened twice during the day. I'm a little upset as I just paid to get my shop upgraded, I should be able to run any machine from any plug in my small shop and never worry about tripping a breaker.

I originally asked him to put each outlet on it's own breaker. He looked at me like I was a bit crazy. So he suggested all the plugs on the right would be on 1 breaker and all the plugs on the left on the second breaker. For the 220V outlet I asked for he wired it up as a 110V and said when I get my new saw to call and he'll swap out the plug. The 220V/110V outlet is also joined at the subpanel to the 2 other 110V plugs on the left wall all sharing the same 15 amp breaker.

I reached out to him last night and he said he could put decouple and install in a new breaker for the 220V/110V outlet. That sounds ok but I'm wondering if I should tell him to go back to my original idea of a breaker for each outlet. Or upgrade all of the 15 amp breakers to a 20 amp or 30 amp breaker. I want flexibility in my small shop so I can rearrange and plug any machine into any plug and not have to worry about tripping a breaker. Any ideas would be appreciate.

Small rant, I'm also a bit peeved that he left me the old panel and all of the garbage from the job to dispose of instead of hauling it away himself.

tsmi243 · « **Reply #48 on:** September 16, 2021, 11:54 AM »

I wired my garage with only 2 circuits, but they alternate. So it's almost as good as individual branch circuits, but only takes up 2 spots in the circuit panel.

If you expect to possibly have all of your tools on at the same time, you might need individual circuits (like if you run a school, or something), but for single person use, just having your tools isolated from your vacs is really all you need.

I did 2-gang boxes everywhere, and each one has 2 duplex outlets- I color coded them white and grey, as a reminder to plug in separately.

Alanbach · « **Reply #49 on:** September 16, 2021, 12:57 PM »

@Joelm If your electrician used heavy enough wire I would definitely recommend that you upgrade your 110V receptacles and breakers to 20amp as this would serve you much better in the long term. Tools like 110V table saws, dust collectors and other higher draw tools will share service so much better on a 20 amp service.

bcrawley · « **Reply #50 on:** September 16, 2021, 02:07 PM »

I'm setting up a shop in a new home. There are preexisting 15 amp outlets; I will have an electrician run some 20 Amp outlets and a 220 V outlet soon (still putting in a floor right now).

I've noticed the lights dim when I turn on the table saw on the 15 amp outlet. So I'd guess a 20 amp would serve you (and me!) much better. Also since the light dimming coincides with turning the machine on, then settles... you might get by in the short term with turning the saw on, waiting a few seconds, then turning the vac on... so the initial surge isn't happening at the same time. Not a long term solution but might work until the electrician returns.

I've been using wide open garage doors and a mask for dust control, until I can get the lines run, but as the weather turns that's going to be less viable. I figured adding a dust collector too would just flip the breaker.

jh63tango · « **Reply #51 on:** September 20, 2021, 02:24 PM »

Quote from: Joelm on April 02, 2021, 06:47 PM

My wife has wanted to buy me a drill press for years and finally decided to for my birthday. I made a quick little cabinet and decided to mount it to the wall.
(Attachment Link)

Since I was mounting one thing to the wall I might as well build out a bunch more cabinets and make it a miter saw, drill press and eventually router table. I've also run out of plywood. I'll be picking some up tomorrow to make a final cabinet next to the drill press.
(Attachment Link)

Pretty standard cabinets and Systainer storage. I still have to make shelves and drawers. I'm going to live with it for a while before committing to a permanent solution. I've brought my router lift out of storage and found an unused miter/t-track extrusion.

The only interesting thing that I added was I liked the Kapex extensions but don't use them all the time. When I do need them, the Kapex comes out on heavy duty lockable drawer extensions so I can fit the Kapex extensions on. When not in use I can store them neatly behind the Kapex with some magnets imbedded in the wall.
(Attachment Link)

Wow, this looks great! Please keep posting on the progress.

mcross0514 · « **Reply #52 on:** November 21, 2022, 01:03 PM »

I am about to start my 1 car garage build and really liked some of the ideas you posted here. Thanks for sharing!

Joelm · « **Reply #53 on:** November 21, 2022, 03:20 PM »

I just realized I stopped updating this thread. I've been busy and have also made quite a few improvements (I think).

Around this time last year I decided I really wanted to get into hand tools but the one thing I really didn't like doing was resawing. I had tried resawing a few pieces of wood but it made my repetitive stress syndrome flare up pretty bad in my arms. So I decide to buy a bandsaw.

After much research I landed on a Felder FB 510 20" bandsaw with extension tables. My thought was I can do all my resawing and possibly even get rid of my jobsite table saw and just use a tracksaw, miter saw and bandsaw for all my sawing needs. So far so good, I'm still getting used to the bandsaw and have a tension gauge on order.

Joelm · « **Reply #54 on:** November 21, 2022, 03:53 PM »

This past spring I realized that my Rockler Dust Right wasn't cutting it and was taking up a huge footprint in my small shop. So I started shopping for another dust collector that would take up less room, have a Hepa filter and service all of my current and future needs. I looked at offerings from Laguna, Felder, Harvey and Oneida.

I settled on Oneida's SuperCell dust collector. The biggest win for me was that it only took up 2'X2' of space and was a fully enclosed system with a built in Hepa filter. On paper the CFM of the SuperCell isn't as wonderful as some others but I quickly realized that at a 4" port it had the same CFM as at the inlet because of the design of the system. I stopped doing CFM tests after the blades of my Anemometer broke off from spinning too fast.

I worked with Oneida to also come up with a ducting system for my small shop. I went with Nordfab quick connect ducting. I'm glad I did as I ended up not ordering enough ducting but was able to get everything sorted out by redoing some connections. I've got 2 ports on each side of my wall and the duct goes across and over the ceiling before my house door.

The only issue I have with the SuperCell itself is the noise level. It is LOUD! I recently decided to try and reduce the volume as much as I could. I first did a sound test from my miter saw. With the SuperCell on my phone was reading 93db. I went out and did a lot of research on sound treatment and found a Canadian product called SonoPan at Home Depot. SonoPan is a sound deadening fiberboard that usually you install before drywall.

I built a small 2'X8' wall right next to the SuperCell with a 4" hole drilled through for the dust hose. I used a scrap 3/4" sheet of plywood, 2 layers of SonoPan and sealed it in with acoustic transparent fabric (FR701 from Guildford of Main). I also built a smaller front panel the same way and just attached it to my wall with a piano hinge. I had a lot of left over acoustic foam so I stapled it over the back wall and ceiling.

I redid my sound test on my phone from the same location. It went from 93db with no wall to around 69db with the wall. I think I was very successful in my efforts. I still wear hearing protection but it is not as high pitched as it was without the sound treatment. I've also got an extra 2'X8' of wall space for some french cleats

cpw · « **Reply #55 on:** November 21, 2022, 04:29 PM »

Matthias Wandel has a good explainer on how to measure tension on your blade with a set of calipers.

https://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/tension.html

When I was embarking on my first "real resawing" adventure where I wanted "thin" veneer pieces 12" wide for an exterior door it was very helpful. The in-built indicator on my saw was quite far off from what I really needed in terms of tension.

This was cheap and gave me the confidence I needed to really crank down on the blade and get good results with my MM16 and 1" resaw blade.

RussellS · « **Reply #56 on:** November 22, 2022, 12:35 PM »

Quote from: Joelm on September 16, 2021, 09:42 AM

I recently upgraded the house to 220A service in preparation for some HVAC upgrades. While the electrician was already here I got him to upgrade my shops wiring.

He first installed a sub panel which I need because I'm also getting a mini split in the shop next week.

I had him run a line down each wall. One side had 2 outlets at 110V.

The other wall has 3 outlets. 2 at 110V and the third I wanted 220V for next year when I will buy a cabinet tablesaw.

The problem I ran into yesterday was the side of the wall with the 3 outlets are all 110V and all off of the same 15 amp breaker. I was ripping some pine 2x4's with my sawstop JSS Pro and my CT26 when all of a sudden I tripped the breaker.

I originally asked him to put each outlet on it's own breaker. He looked at me like I was a bit crazy. So he suggested all the plugs on the right would be on 1 breaker and all the plugs on the left on the second breaker. For the 220V outlet I asked for he wired it up as a 110V and said when I get my new saw to call and he'll swap out the plug. The 220V/110V outlet is also joined at the subpanel to the 2 other 110V plugs on the left wall all sharing the same 15 amp breaker.

I reached out to him last night and he said he could put decouple and install in a new breaker for the 220V/110V outlet. That sounds ok but I'm wondering if I should tell him to go back to my original idea of a breaker for each outlet. Or upgrade all of the 15 amp breakers to a 20 amp or 30 amp breaker.

I know this is a year and two months later response. But some comments on the electrical wiring.

It sounds like neither you nor the so called electrician knew what they were doing. Sadly. Regarding your idea of putting every outlet on its own circuit. Sounds nice except in actuality its a big waste. The correct way of wiring a shop is to put every other outlet on its own circuit. So outlet 1, 3, 5 are all the same circuit. And outlets 2, 4, 6 are all the same circuit. That way when you plug in a saw and a dust collector, you will use two outlets next to each other. But both will be on their own circuit. Do not have all outlets on one wall on the same circuit. Because you will likely plug both tools, saw and vacuum, into the same wall. And overload the circuit because both are on same circuit. More thought should have been put into this.

As for upgrading the circuits to 20 amp. Depends. What wire gauge was used? They are currently 15 amp breakers. Usually thinner 14 gauge wire is used with 15 amp breakers. So cannot be upgraded to 20 amp breakers. If the electrician planned and did the job correctly from the beginning and used 12 gauge wire, then it is easy to just change out the circuit breakers to 20 amp and you are set. But I cannot figure out why you would use little 15 amp breakers in the first place. 15 or 20 amp breakers are almost identical in price. Its the wire that is more costly. And the wire is what determines the breaker size used. You should have had 12 gauge wire installed originally. A shop needs heavier 12 gauge wire to use 20 amp breakers. But in your case, if the bad electrician used thin 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp breaker, then you are screwed. It will be a lot of work to pull all new wiring to 12 gauge to allow an upgrade to 20 amp breakers. Its illegal to put a 20 amp breaker on 14 gauge wire. Someone did not think when this job was done.

Regarding your 220 volt outlet on the wall. That is joined to the other two 110 volt outlets. And all sharing the same wiring back to the panel? And are sharing the same breaker. Oh my. No one was thinking when this was done. If the original plan was to originally make that 220 volt in the future, then it should have had its own separate wiring run from the panel to that outlet. Probably 10 gauge wire to handle 30 amp 220 volt breaker. It could have still been mated to a 15 or 20 amp breaker in the panel temporarily. Then later changed to 220 volt using the same wires but putting in a new double pole breaker. Easy.

But right now, I don't know what you have. You will need separate dedicated wiring run to the 220 volt outlet from the panel. And its own breaker in the panel. I'm not sure any thinking was done on this.

Now that it is a year later and you have used the shop and know what you want. I would think about it again. And call in a different electrician to do the work. Or do it yourself. Electrical work is pretty easy. Explain to the new electrician what you want and listen to his suggestions. Then research and think about his suggestions. Then call him back if he gave you good suggestions and have the job done.

Seems to me there was a whole lot of wasted effort here. The job will need to be done twice to get it right. The conduit and boxes on the wall can still be used. But new wiring will likely need to be run. And new breakers will need to be installed.

tsmi243 · « **Reply #57 on:** November 22, 2022, 01:41 PM »

Quote from: RussellS on November 22, 2022, 12:35 PM

I know this is a year and two months later response. But some comments on the electrical wiring.

It sounds like neither you nor the so called electrician knew what they were doing. Sadly. Regarding your idea of putting every outlet on its own circuit. Sounds nice except in actuality its a big waste. The correct way of wiring a shop is to put every other outlet on its own circuit. So outlet 1, 3, 5 are all the same circuit. And outlets 2, 4, 6 are all the same circuit. That way when you plug in a saw and a dust collector, you will use two outlets next to each other. But both will be on their own circuit. Do not have all outlets on one wall on the same circuit. Because you will likely plug both tools, saw and vacuum, into the same wall. And overload the circuit because both are on same circuit. More thought should have been put into this.

As for upgrading the circuits to 20 amp. Depends. What wire gauge was used? They are currently 15 amp breakers. Usually thinner 14 gauge wire is used with 15 amp breakers. So cannot be upgraded to 20 amp breakers. If the electrician planned and did the job correctly from the beginning and used 12 gauge wire, then it is easy to just change out the circuit breakers to 20 amp and you are set. But I cannot figure out why you would use little 15 amp breakers in the first place. 15 or 20 amp breakers are almost identical in price. Its the wire that is more costly. And the wire is what determines the breaker size used. You should have had 12 gauge wire installed originally. A shop needs heavier 12 gauge wire to use 20 amp breakers. But in your case, if the bad electrician used thin 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp breaker, then you are screwed. It will be a lot of work to pull all new wiring to 12 gauge to allow an upgrade to 20 amp breakers. Its illegal to put a 20 amp breaker on 14 gauge wire. Someone did not think when this job was done.

Regarding your 220 volt outlet on the wall. That is joined to the other two 110 volt outlets. And all sharing the same wiring back to the panel? And are sharing the same breaker. Oh my. No one was thinking when this was done. If the original plan was to originally make that 220 volt in the future, then it should have had its own separate wiring run from the panel to that outlet. Probably 10 gauge wire to handle 30 amp 220 volt breaker. It could have still been mated to a 15 or 20 amp breaker in the panel temporarily. Then later changed to 220 volt using the same wires but putting in a new double pole breaker. Easy.

But right now, I don't know what you have. You will need separate dedicated wiring run to the 220 volt outlet from the panel. And its own breaker in the panel. I'm not sure any thinking was done on this.

Now that it is a year later and you have used the shop and know what you want. I would think about it again. And call in a different electrician to do the work. Or do it yourself. Electrical work is pretty easy. Explain to the new electrician what you want and listen to his suggestions. Then research and think about his suggestions. Then call him back if he gave you good suggestions and have the job done.

Seems to me there was a whole lot of wasted effort here. The job will need to be done twice to get it right. The conduit and boxes on the wall can still be used. But new wiring will likely need to be run. And new breakers will need to be installed.

This is GREAT advice, right here. But I wouldn't worry about 20A circuits unless I had 20A tools. Which I have never seen in real life.

In my experience, any power tool with a 15A plug will only trip a 15A breaker if there's other stuff on the same branch- which is why I think 2x 15A circuits really is all you need. Keep the vacuums separate, and you're good to go. iVac makes an auto switch with two power inputs, for this exact reason.

I HAVE tripped a breaker before when binding up a table saw blade, but it was a much younger me, pushing thru a cut that shouldn't have been pushed thru. I stopped cutting 4x4s in a single pass when I turned 30

Joelm · « **Reply #58 on:** November 22, 2022, 02:26 PM »

@RussellS

Thank you for the very in depth reply. I think I was unclear/wrong in my original description of my wiring. It was not all that bad and he's since been back to add another line. I'll describe my current panel to ease any worries.

Right now my sub panel has

X2 15 amp @ 220V breakers for my mini split
X2 20 amp @ 220V breakers for my dust collector
X2 30 amp @ 220V breakers for my bandsaw
1 15 amp 110V breaker for left side plugs
1 15 amp 110V breaker for right side plugs

Each line has it's own flexible metal conduit (not sure wire gauge) mounted to my plywood walls to each outlet.

Since getting things sorted out I have not had one breaker trip. Even when running my Festool dust extractor and Kapex on one 15 amp breaker. If I do need to upgrade or replace anything at lease everything is surface mounted and easily accessible. I also have a few open spots on my sub panel in case I decide to upgrade anything else (jointer/planer maybe?).

Thanks again for that detailed reply and I don't think the electrical was as much of a train wreck as I originally made it out to be.