Whoops!  I hit the post button before adding info about the vise.  I decided to add the Veritas tail vise to this bench because it looked considerably easier than a traditional tail vise.  It was very easy to install, but you do have to pay attention to the installation instructions to make sure that the vise travels exactly parallel to the front of the bench.  The vise jaw is 2" thick, and about 5" wide.  Note how far down the bolts are on the jaw - that reflects how far down the mechanism extends.  The bench top is only 1.5" thick, so for a thicker bench, the jaw would have to be that much wider.

The jaw is made of jatoba.  The apron is made of cherry with jatoba laminated on top and bottom for strength.  both the apron and jaw will have jaw pads of Jatoba screwed in and countersunk so that they can be replaced if needed.  The breadboard ends are cherry, and the top is alternating granadillo and soft maple.  I used some pallet oak for hidden structural pieces.  The jatoba was supposed to be granadillo, but I picked up the wrong board because I was in a hurry .  At least the jotoba is plenty hard and will be up to the task.

All the top holes are drilled using the Parf Guide system, and the top is done aside from finishing.  Haven't drilled the apron side holes yet.

I did in my C18 drilling the top holes in the apron, per another post.  Finished it up with a Milwaukee M18 drill that started getting a little hotter than I liked, and finally finished up with a DeWalt 20V (not brushless).  When using the Milwaukee and DeWalt drills I used the 20mm bit that came with the Parf Guide to drill the tops of the holes, but it is enough shorter that I could not get the full depth and had to do a second pass with the Centrotec version of the bit.

I was going to add on a Moxon vise, but the Veritas tail vise seems to hold boards firmly.  We'll see how it does in use.

Here are some pictures of MFT clamps and dogs on the bench.

Coming out great. How square is the hole pattern?

I drilled all of the holes except those in the apron about two months ago (?) or so.  At that time they were pretty much as perfect within the limits of my ability to measure.  When I came back to drill the apron, I checked out the Parf guide on the holes to see how they fit.  With the grain the fit was still perfect on the 5-10 holes that I tested.  Cross the grain the fit was maybe .1mm or less off, I presume due to wood movement.

Wood movement in Colorado is minimal due to the low average humidity, so that helps.  Most wood shrinkage occurs between 100% and 60% relative humidity.  Colorado humidity averages lower than 60%.  http://festoolownersgroup.com/building-materials/wood-shrinkage-in-colorado/msg497873/#msg497873

I was just reflecting on how since I finished my bench last Fall with the integral vises, and in particular the benchcrafted wagon vise, I can count on one hand the number of times I've had to resort to the clamping elements, which, prior to the bench, were my most frequently used clamps.

It's amazing how much of a difference a customized bench makes.

HW - I see you're using your Festool clamps...with the 'inch and a half' thick  top did you have to open up the holes underneath to allow the clamps to fit in or use a round over bit? I'd be interested to know how they work... Sometimes even on mine (not as thick) it's a challenge.
Thanks

I think he disassembles the clamp and inserts it from below, note the pin in the end of the clamp in this photo.



RMW

HW - I see you're using your Festool clamps...with the 'inch and a half' thick  top did you have to open up the holes underneath to allow the clamps to fit in or use a round over bit? I'd be interested to know how they work... Sometimes even on mine (not as thick) it's a challenge.
Thanks

I tried opening up the holes underneath and found that it simply does not work - at least not leaving a good 3/4" deep hole from the top for dogs, etc. to grab.  The person who suggested that I dissembled the clamps and insert them from below was correct.  Given that, they still work great.  You just have to make sure that you don't fill the space immediately below the top (for ~ 6" or so) with drawers and such.

I tried opening up the holes underneath and found that it simply does not work - at least not leaving a good 3/4" deep hole from the top for dogs, etc. to grab.  The person who suggested that I dissembled the clamps and insert them from below was correct.  Given that, they still work great.  You just have to make sure that you don't fill the space immediately below the top (for ~ 6" or so) with drawers and such.

Bessey just introduced clamps with workbench-adapters for most of the hole-systems in use. It is modular, eg you buy a base for the hole diameter you use and the clamp that attaches to it is sold separately.

Unfortunately Bessey's website is not working properly, but the downloadable new catalog is available. The new Workbench adapters and Clamps are on page 113-115.

Yep. But the illustrations in the catalogue show the system in use with what looks like material that is about 40 mm thick. Which would suit the OP.

Just take a look under Clamps for Woodworking. The last item in the menu:

http://www.besseytools.com/en/subcategory?ASIMOID_SC=000000030003cd8400040023&ASIMOID_MC=000000000001f3f000030023

[BTW  I just relay information that I found in the catalogue. I never make up stories about clamps…]

Is there a 20mm adaptor for the Bessey clamps?  I did not see one.

I got a Veritas Surface clamp http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=70684&cat=1,43838,70865 but apparently I have to be careful not to tighten into the hole too tightly or I will deform the hole.  The main reason I got it was for horizontal clamping on the front of the bench.

Great info here Bert thanks !

How slow is slow progress?  Well, the last post on this thread was May 25.  Summer was crazy, didn't get started on the legs until September.

There are three leg sections separated by stretchers, out of African mahogany.  They are sanded to ~800 grit, finished with two coats of oil and one of wax.

The legs are joined with oversized 8mm home-made dominos.  There are two dominos in parallel per joint.  The picture shows the domino I made, compared to the stock Festool domino.  The additional size gave me the confidence to use dominos rather than mortise and tenon joints.

I'll be putting narrow shelves in the front under the bench, and systainer storage shelves behind, pulling out to the side.  The idea is to put various dogs, clamps, etc both on the shelves and the systainers on the side, so that everything is handy.  Of course I'll leave enough space under the top to reach in with clamps if needed.

Finally got the finish on the top - four coats of oil and a coat of wax.  Ended up with way more character than I expected it would have.

Next - drawers on both sides.  The right side will have two drawers that will fit two sys1's.  One is a Festool MFT set, the other has a variety of other 20mm accessories.  The slides will be 20" slides so that the systainers will come out well clear of the bench, and I'll be able to open them without removing them from the drawers.  The left side will have one shallow drawer for chisels and carving tools, and whatever, and one deeper drawer for hand planes and whatever.  I might have to beef up the drawer slides for the hand plane drawer - currently I just have 100 lb capacity slides on hand.  I'll probably also put a lower shelf on the left side.

@HarveyWildes : "well done" - no,make that "very well done" !

if this bench turns out to take too much room after all, let us know, we'll be glad to store it for you 

I still have a brand new RECORD benchvise (made in England before they quit making them) and waiting for the right bench to arrive to mount it on. You thanks for sharing - you encourage me to find a home for it in our shop.

Hans