Author Topic: Design ideas needed for shop based 4x8 ft cutting / assembly table  (Read 28328 times)

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Re: Design ideas needed for shop based 4x8 ft cutting / assembly table
« Reply #30 on: February 11, 2016, 09:40 AM »
thanks for clarifying.
removable crosscut jig is clearly the way for me to go
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Re: Design ideas needed for shop based 4x8 ft cutting / assembly table
« Reply #31 on: March 23, 2016, 06:02 PM »
I just came across the "Emily Adams Parallel Guide" design on Ron Paulk's site. That answers my question for a more accurate/reliable way of measuring from the cutting edge of my guide rail to the reference edge of the material on the opposite side of the guide rail. That is the most accurate design I have yet seen. Machining the needed parts will give me a durable tool. I'll find other uses for my Incra tracks I bought to go with my SENECA parallel guide tool.

Hans

PS: I changed my avatar to something reflecting more what I am involved in - but still the same guy :)
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Re: Design ideas needed for shop based 4x8 ft cutting / assembly table
« Reply #32 on: March 29, 2016, 04:56 PM »
I'm not sure what you mean by "fence like pieces" but the second picture shows the crosscut jig which is removable, it just clamps to the workbench at each end.  The first picture is just the workbench and the only loose pieces are the tools sitting on and under it.

I don't think you really need an overhang for the top, however.  The vertical ribs are only about 1.25 inches wide where they are cut out so that plus the top means you have to clamp 2 inches plus what you are securing.  But in most instances, I do not clamp this way.  One of the big advantages of all the holes in the top is you can insert a clamp in them and clamp there.  I use a couple grizzly track clamps because I got them for $25 (for two) at Christmas time.  I also have a couple HF quick clamps that I modified and use (take the fixed jaw off, heat the bar to cherry red about 2-3 inches back from the tip and then twist it and turn it 90 degrees (to make a new fixed jaw).  Cost for those is really, maybe $5 each.  You can use Festool clamps but they are $30 or more each.  DeWalt track clamps won't work but Makita probably will.  Anyway, I mostly clamp to the workbench surface using the holes, not out along the edge.  But if I want to clamp along the edge I can.

The crosscut jig is an important extra.  It has a movable stop for repeat cuts and will reliably cut 3 feet pieces square.  Only takes a couple minutes to put on and off the bench.  The combination of the bench and crosscut jig really increase the usefulness of the track saw.  Much the same functionality of a MFT but much larger and cheaper.

Thanks for clarifying the crosscut arrangement! Together with some YouTube videos I can see this as a very good approach.
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Home of the GRS-16 and GRS-16 PE  plus TPG Parallel Guide -  the MTR-18 Triangle - TDS-10 Dog Stop and GRC-12 Guide Rail Connector; Work Holding solutions plus AXMINSTER UJK in the USA