Hi All,
I'm new to the forum but have been studying the Festool product line for a while now. I used to do finish carpentry and woodwork for a living but have taken an 8 year break. Now I want to get back into it. I sold all my tools a while ago so I'm starting basically from scratch. So I'm posting my ideas for investing in the Festool system from the ground up - trying to keep multi-functionality and portability in mind. (My job opportunities will be various as I do not yet have an official shop or business.) I'm looking for feedback with the above in mind. So...
Here goes!

DRILLING
T-18 +3 (with four chucks I wont need more drills)
2.6Ah battery (to cut down the weight of the T-18)
Snappy Festool 7-piece Cabinet makers set (because Festool's Installer Kit doesn't come with a self-centering bit!)
[Later: add the Installer set if it makes sense for jobs]
[Later: add the BHC Rotary Hammer if jobs require]

SAWING
HKC basic (batteries and charger are already with the T-18)
FKS rail (which one, if you had to buy only one to start?)
[Later: add a TS 75 if cabinetry and woodwork take off as main source of income]
Carvex basic (again, batteries and charger from T-18)
Carvex accessories (because I really wanted to spend more $$$ for decent functionality )

ROUTING
1400 Router (best of both worlds, still pretty light but can take both 1/4 and 1/2 collets)
Guide for rails (that functionality, though)
[Later: add accessories as needed for jobs]

SANDING
Rotex 90 (yes, I know it's small but the multi-functionality is amazing plus its so portable)
[Later: any sander the job requires]

WORKBENCH
MFT/3 (as package deal with one of the above - miter capabilty, clamping, layout, etc. etc. everything the MFT is awesome at)
Clamps (yeah, clamps)
Sys-cart (rolling stackable cart for systainers, also brings height up to the MFT to double as a supporting table)
MFTB (Because it's better than the design of the Sys-MFT. You can build one that you can turn into a scroll saw with the Carvex and a router table with the 1400 inside - portable, compact shop, again, is the ideal.)
Extra 1400 guide rail with rail connectors (So as to join the 1080 rail and cut full length ply (will this work???))
[Later: accessories/clamps as needed... maybe another MFT/3]

DUST EXTRACTION
CT-26 (Still compact enough to lug around to job sites yet large enough to work a future boom/cart accessories)
Long life bag (wish this came with the CT)
[Later: CT-SYS.... when they make it battery powered! - you know they will]

Oops... just ran out of money. That was about... $4500

Next tools would be add a....
Kapex (need a big trim job)
Planer (need those nice custom tables......)
etc.

So, what do you all think? Again, the idea I'm going for is a small portable workshop that has as much functionality as possible. I'm going with batteries for the HKC and Carvex because those can be very useful cordless on a multitude of jobsites. (I obviously didn't include nailers and reciprocating saws because those would need to be from another brand)
Let me know if you have any suggestions or if you see any flaws in the plan? Your feedback is appreciated.

I agree with Rizzoa, buy the 75.  As far as rails, I use my 1900 and 3000 more than any.  I combined 1400s for a few years with the Makita connectors but finally got fed up with the process and inefficiency.  I like your other choices except that I use Milwaukee's 12 and 18V systems because they are much more diverse.  The 90 is a great choice but really consider getting the ETS EC 125.  You can use 5 and 6" pads and having just bought one (Have the ETS150/s and ETS125), it will do most every thing you will need in a finish sander.

I'm wanting to go with the HKC saw because it will enable portability (cordless), great compound miter functionality, plunge/track capacity. It seems like the HKC is the "if you only could have one track saw..." saw. TS 75 is huge. Yes it can do everything but it is not convenient enough. Most tasks will not require it. But if cabinetry/furniture really took off I absolutely make the investment.

The Milwaukee thought is interesting. I looked long and hard at the M12 and M18. I would love to have them as a compliment to Festool. Benefits: Impact driver, grinder, reciprocating saw, percussion drill, NEW MITER SAW, and cordless Nailers. But I have some reservations.... The nailers are fairly heavy, have bad visibility on the tip and make huge unsightly holes (some kind of double hit mark). The Miter will be expensive ($700) and at that point I'm halfway to a Kapex which is actually fine woodwork-worthy. The grinder and recip saw and percussion hammer are less used for fine work. Honestly I was going to go with the Ryobi nailers (great reviews!), recip and grinder and just get the Festool percussion drill eventually!
Thoughts appreciated

I like to think of keeping my feet firmly planted on the ground.
So either a tables saw or track saw.

Or a ladder and cordless tools if the work is towards the heavens.
Or if the work is in the other direction, like under a house.

Is it finish work or carpentry?

I think that there are many ways to consider this idea.

A very important angle on this is to own a properly equipped woodshop. A proper jointer,planer,table saw, etc... the basics, and just do all the "woodworking" there. This is superior because you control your environment, can have stock on hand etc... Also, festool offers not options in the way of planing and jointing and all woodworking projects begin there.

I went down the road of equipping myself with festool to be mobile and accurate, but, although some of these tools are "game changers", the game has been played for a very long time without them.

Having a fully mobile shop will require a box truck, trailer, or multiple trips for a larger project. I would really just tool up for the work that you are contracted to do, otherwise you will accumulate junk (although really nice junk) everywhere. Festool is a highly materialist pursuit. Try to avoid the collector impulse and focus more on doing killer work.



Definitely do not buy a ro90 as your first sander. I use it in the shop or onsite the least. Also, how is it more portable than any other sander, are you planing on throwing away the systainers?

Also, make sure to check out these threads, especially the posts from Contractortalk

http://www.contractortalk.com/f40/job-site-trailers-show-off-your-set-ups-48819/

take a look at "spencers" van equipping project here, he has great work posted all over that forum also.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f41/should-i-get-transit-van-284266/index20/

If you were only looking for one track saw, I would personally say TS55 in whatever variant, cordless or corded you choose. My 75 sits to the side because 99.9% of cabinetry work that I do doesn't require the depth of that saw...its big for typical needs. I wouldn't use the HK/C for cabinetry due to the off cut side not having zero clearance. I do a lot of field work...the CT26 is a good mid size choice. Take a look at the ETS EC 125. I would take that any day over the RO 90. The drill versatility is priceless!  I use the PDC which also offers the occasional masonry drilling when needed.

Seems like you're thinking along the right lines!

While ^this all^ makes sense...
The OP stated:

...
 So I'm posting my ideas for investing in the Festool system from the ground up - trying to keep multi-functionality and portability in mind.
...

The main problems here whether FT provides more, better multi functionality, and/or more/better portability.
It is not matter of "how portable" or "how multi functional" the tool is, if it is the wrong tool.
Since we do not know what he will be doing exactly it is not clear that we can begin to suggest the right tool.

All I know for sure is that a HKC cannot effectively replace a table saw.

But @builderbob list is still a good list, which generally would get well used... unless one is doing cattle fences or timberframing.
Whether the TS55 and ETC/EC is better than a tablesaw and/or a 1/2-sheet sander depends on the exact work.

The only thing we are clear on is that a portable workshop needs to get to its portable location, and hence the trailer/truck/van.

However the standard model is that finished installation is done on-site and finish carpentry is normally done in a dedicated shop.
So does the premise need chin-scratching?

@builderbob There was no like button for your post, and it made a lot of sense to me.

Here what it says about the Yugo (http://content.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1658545_1658533_1658529,00.html):

"Malcolm Bricklin, he of the Bricklin SV1, wouldn't be satisfied until he had forced every American to walk to work. To that end, in 1985, he began importing the Yugo GV, which turned out to be the Mona Lisa of bad cars. Built in Soviet-bloc Yugoslavia, the Yugo had the distinct feeling of something assembled at gunpoint. Interestingly, in a car where "carpet" was listed as a standard feature, the Yugo had a rear-window defroster — reportedly to keep your hands warm while you pushed it. The engines went ka-blooey, the electrical system — such as it was — would sizzle, and things would just fall off. Yugo. Or not."

But it looks like if one pulled out the back seat, then a table saw could fit into it?
However you probably need to keep the passenger seat so you have someone along to help push it.

@Holmz I think the hand warming method would be a deal breaker for me! 

That hand warmer was for your assistant, as he/she will be pushing...

In your most bossly/bossy voice, you need to say, "Hey, Yugo Push".

Cool.

TS55 for sure, its the heart of my system. I'd still get the portable dewalt table saw though. MIDI vacuum, Brushless 5" or 6" sander, RO150, Definitely consider the MFT table unless your going to be doing a DIY version like Paulk or the MF slab. Festool Jigsaw isn't worth spending extra money on if you already have one. I have both dominoes and use the 500 much more.

What type of work will you be doing? Its hard to know where to spend your money.

I have certainly fiddled with a track saw/connecters/parallel guides/ etc... for way too much time BUT it is part of redefining the way you work. Tom has some great jigs and work flows for making face-frame stock with a track saw on here. I have yet to imitate but I should make a jig in his style for adjustable stock widths.

Alright, a little math in accordance with the suggestions.

Recommended Corded Festool Tools
$1258.50 for TS 55 and MFT3
$992.5 ETS EC 125/3 and CT 26
$560 OF 1400 Router
=$2,811
$280 Bosch JS572
$350 Milwaukee Drill Driver Fuel (brushless) kit
===$3441===

Cordless Festool Setup with same or more functionality:
$1196 TSC 55 Basic and MFT3
$992.5 ETS EC 125/3 and CT 26
$560 OF 1400
=$2748.5
$578 Cordless Carvex and Accessory Kit
$625 T 18+3
===$3951.5===

Difference: 3952-3441=511

So the first option has the advantage of saving $511 and having a brushless impact driver. (Also, some will see cords as being advantageous on the TS and jigsaw.)

With the second option the advantage is having cordless capacity on the TSC and Jigsaw and Drill, having Systainer storage for all of these, having the different chucks (right-angle, eccentric, etc.) and quick changing with the drill. For jigsaw work one would have better quality and flexibility with the Carvex.

To my mind, the math is clear and the advantages of the second option are worth the extra $511. However, I can understand why others prefer the first option. Some of it just comes down to personal preference and idiosyncrasy. I use a jig saw a LOT, and in ways that other people usually reach for other tools. On the other hand, I have very little use for an impact driver, especially with a T18 (This is why I went for it rather than a CXS - power). But I made it pretty clear that there was room to grow in this setup and I appreciate the sage advice of the experienced.
$4500 was just the initial budget for power tools. The rest will present itself as time and jobs go on. With the cordless option I still have $500+ left to buy a small dewalt table saw and a couple other accessories.
Thanks again though.

With the tile in mind, I'd get a CT Midi instead of the 26.

Is the TSC the basic tool only version? That's what I'd go for since you are already buying a power supply with the T 18. Buy extra batteries (now) if you think you need them. For some odd reason Festool 18v 5.2 Ah batteries cost half as much as M18 5 Ah batteries.

Finally either get the cordless Carvex or get a Bosch jigsaw.

Thanks. Yes, the T 18's batteries are serving as the power for the TSC 55 and Carvex. That's why I bought a 2.6Ah battery for the T 18 to cut down on size and weight while using the 5.2ah batteries in the saws.
Do you feel that the MIDI gives that much better portability? I kind of want the boom or tool stand eventually...hence the ct26

You can't use a boom arm with a midi but you can't take a boom out of the shop either, unless you have a big truck and a helper.

I have a Ryobi brad nailer and have put several thousand 2 inch brads through it putting trim in a lot of our house.  I recommend it.  A compressor and pneumatics are cheaper but the cordless nailer is much handier.  The batteries (I use the little lithium ion) last a long time.  No regrets.  I see that they make 16 and 15 gauge models now.  They are bigger - and the 18 gauge is not small - but I bet they work well too.

I have a pretty complete set of Ryobi cordless.  I have two drills, the impact driver, the reciprocating saw, jig saw, circular saw, and oscillating saw.  And a light.  And a weed whacker and a bush trimmer.  I like them all.  But my Bosch jig saw is a lot more capable than my Ryobi and my DeWalt corded reciprocating saw will do work the Ryobi just won't do.  Some of it is the batteries.  The saws go through them quickly.  But there are bigger batteries.  But part of it is the tools are not as good as the best corded tools.  The blade on the jig saw wanders more than the Bosch.  The stroke of the reciprocating saw is shorter than the DeWalt.  I think the cordless are worth having and I grab them first a lot but I would get the corded first.  You're going to need them sometimes.

If you can live without the Systainers my DeWalt track saw is pretty darn nice.  My Rigid shop vac with Dust Deputy, auto-on switch, and quasi heap filter works great for a lot less than a Festool dust extractor.  But it is also not nearly as impressive looking.  Festool might make sense if your clients will witness your setup.  But I'd still go Bosch for the jigsaw, cordless should be OK if that's the way you want to go.  And Ryboi drills and nailers will work well for you.