Author Topic: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac  (Read 2055 times)

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Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« on: May 18, 2020, 12:08 PM »
I decided to add a Dust Deputy for the Drill Press dust collection, and use it with a spare small shop vac. The switch on the vac, however, is hard to press on and off, and I feared that it would break apart after repeated use. So, I made of use of an idle light switch (?) to control the shop vac via the hot wire (the vac's switch is left in the "ON" setting all the time). I hope you electricians would approve of this.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 12:28 PM by ChuckM »

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1691
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2020, 02:08 PM »
Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'. :-)

This one that Rockler currently has listed looks like the exact same switch I bought from Sears 20+ years ago with the Craftsman label on it. Mine has held up well all these years and it worked great. Has two outlets that you can plug accessory tools into, and third where the main power tool gets connected. Just turn the switch on and all three outlets are hot. Turn the main tool off and the other tools shut down after a short delay.

I use my old Craftsman version of this switch with my Kreg Foreman pocket hold machine. I have a cheap bucket head vac connected to the Foremen and it starts and stops every time I make a pocket hole. works great and a 5 gallon bucket will collect swarf from hundreds of pocket holes.

https://www.rockler.com/i-socket-autoswitch-workshop-tool-and-vacuum-switch?sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla_with_promotion&utm_campaign=PL&tid=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij2BRBdEiwA0Frc9Z6934KomHdQSEuY6OMJVdO8c2BC34IhQ-6eyx1jqYmKqP9-SGSxDhoCdTEQAvD_BwE
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline rst

  • Posts: 2423
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2020, 02:27 PM »
I just got a 15 amp rated remote switch from Amazon that is sold as a remote garbage disposal switch to operate my Metabo vac.

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2020, 03:15 PM »

Snip.
Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'. :-)


Bob,

That was the path I took...with no success. My autoswitch (see images) for some some reason didn't work for this set-up. When both machines were turned on, the shop vac kinda went up and down in its noise, as if it were to die or something. Not wanting to damage either the vac or the autoswitch, I did the electrical hack.

Do you think the autoswitch is under power (amp)?

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 1224
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2020, 04:46 PM »
@ChuckM here’s what I have been using and it works well for me. I had gotten a cheap on/off foot switch for using with the vac on the drill press. Here’s a link to one at Harbor Freight but they are all over and basically the same Chinese import.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html

They are frankly the poorest excuse for a foot switch ever. They’re too light, slide around etc etc.

BUT when I mounted it to the side of my drill press stand it makes a wonderful switch. I just slap it on and off. No looking or feeling around for a toggle switch. It is actually really great.

Try one.



Ron
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 04:49 PM by rvieceli »

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1381
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2020, 05:18 PM »
Can't you get an inline cord/appliance switch, that is rated high enough for the shop vac?

Honestly, that taped up/shut light switch makes me cringe.


Kind regards,
Oliver
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2020, 05:40 PM »
Can't you get an inline cord/appliance switch, that is rated high enough for the shop vac?

Honestly, that taped up/shut light switch makes me cringe.


Kind regards,
Oliver

Oliver,

I do have an inline cord switch...let me check its rating first.

I know little about code or electrical stuff. What's wrong with the wire/switch there? Sparks?

Offline Vondawg

  • Posts: 357
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2020, 05:42 PM »
“I hope you Electricians would approve of this”...made me laugh out loud.
Thanks
There are no mistakes....just new designs.

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1381
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2020, 05:55 PM »
I know next to nothing about NorthAmerican/Canadian building/electrical code. But a switch that should basically go into a fire/flame resistant box inside a wall, is certainly not the right choice for "in the air, free hanging" inline installation.

I'm pretty sure it's also missing/lacking strain relief, which would be a good (necessary) thing to have for a switch that is installed inline.

The electrical tape, and whatever it is holding to protect the terminal, that's not ingress protection/protected and it doesn't sufficiently protect the user from electric shock ...

But honestly, thats just two details that come to mind immediately. ;)

It really shouldn't be done this way.

If you go with an inline switch, please make sure it's really rated accordingly. No stunts/ try & error with electricity. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 06:05 PM by six-point socket II »
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2020, 06:20 PM »
Thanks for your caution. Back to the drawing board for a safer solution. Will take another look at the Blue autoswitch.

Offline Peter_C

  • Posts: 877
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #10 on: May 18, 2020, 09:12 PM »
This switch can be run off two independent circuits.
https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2020, 09:16 PM »
@ChuckM here’s what I have been using and it works well for me. 

BUT when I mounted it to the side of my drill press stand it makes a wonderful switch. I just slap it on and off. No looking or feeling around for a toggle switch. It is actually really great.

Try one.


Ron
Ron,

Your post reminded me of a foot switch I have had in the shop, collecting dust! But mine does not have an on/off two step feature like yours. Press, power on, and release the paddle, power off. I made a wedge to keep the paddle in the "ON" position.

Until I find a better solution, I'll keep this set up for now. I did check the switch and retried it, but it wouldn't work with the vac (8A) and drill press (2.4A). I suspect the autoswitch (rated for 20A) is somehow defective.

Thanks to Oliver and all, cautioning me against the potential electrical pitfalls.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 09:21 PM by ChuckM »

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2020, 09:18 PM »
This switch can be run off two independent circuits.
https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

I have two of those, one for the SawStop and one for the Kapex. Just found it a bit spendy for my drill press that isn't used as much and that doesn't produce as much saw dust.

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1691
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2020, 10:48 PM »

Snip.
Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'. :-)


Bob,

That was the path I took...with no success. My autoswitch (see images) for some some reason didn't work for this set-up. When both machines were turned on, the shop vac kinda went up and down in its noise, as if it were to die or something. Not wanting to damage either the vac or the autoswitch, I did the electrical hack.

Do you think the autoswitch is under power (amp)?

Sounds like your total Amp draw for both tools may exceed or be close to the 20A limit. Remember that the startup or in-rush current for an electric motor will be greater (1.5 times, sometimes more) than the running amps which is what you will usually find listed on the tool.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline RKA

  • Posts: 1969
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2020, 10:53 AM »
A remote outlet/switch might be handy.  I use it to trigger the vac or other appliance from a distance, but you could use it here.  I use the one below, which is $17 shipped on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F9DGRL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Raj



Offline AstroKeith

  • Posts: 96
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #17 on: May 19, 2020, 05:40 PM »
I have so far three machines that use my 'shop vac' (not a term we use in the UK!). I have a separate 20A spur from my fuse box that feeds sockets in the workshop marked with a red dot. This spur has a £12 Amazon current sensor that switches the vac on whenever any current is drawn on this spur.
Retired engineer/scientist

Offline martin felder

  • Posts: 103
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #18 on: May 19, 2020, 08:29 PM »
I appreciate all of the information.  I am about to get a used vintage Rockwell RAM Radial Drill press  found on ebay. I have looked for the right one for 7 years.  I am planning to do some upgrades for clamps, fence, maybe a power feed to raise and lower the head. 

I am very happy with my shop dust collection except my drill press.  I guess one reason I paid less attention is that drilling holes without a dust collector does not spew fine dust into my lungs.  However, it does make a mess of chips, especially with Forstner bits, and that gets under the wood and interferes with placing the boards flat for the next bit of drilling. 

I am changing my miter saw to have central collection instead of my CT-36 and so I was thinking I would use the CT-36 for a drill press dust collector.  The dust deputy seems good since without it, the bag would fill up quickly with not so fine chips.  I have been looking at semi flexible "Gooseneck" ducting that can be positioned for optimal suction during drilling.  Once I get the drill press, I will better be able to decide what may work best, but the bolted to the floor on-of switch for the dust collector seems nice.  I was thinking I would want to just have it so when the drill press is turned on, the CT-36 turns on, but now not so sure.

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #19 on: May 19, 2020, 10:01 PM »
Snip.  I was thinking I would want to just have it so when the drill press is turned on, the CT-36 turns on, but now not so sure.
Ideally, I'd like the vac to get started as soon as the drill press is turned on. But that is not as essential as for the table saw and mitre saw because the vac switch is close by, and as you said, drilling doesn't produce saw dust as a power saw.

I'm happy for now with the wedged foot-switch solution, but may change my mind if I find a good deal with an autoswitch.

My drill press table comes with a dust port. but to use it, I need to open up the split fence. Often I prefer or need to use the fence in its closed position. My current solution is to use a bendable/expandable hose, hooked up to the DD.

Offline martin felder

  • Posts: 103
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #20 on: May 19, 2020, 10:51 PM »
ChuckM, I saw your postings about the Drillnado dating back to 2015.  Maybe it was at the 2015 Vegas show where I saw it.  It was being demonstrated with a  Forstner bit and I thought, how cool!  The chips magically disappeared, and you could see the cut being made without chips in the way, and after the cut was made, no chips all around! 

In real use, I have not found it so practical when changing drill bits and wanting to better see what I am doing.  It now sits around, and I need to consider if I need to try to make it work with what may be my new dust collector setup with foot switch, or garbage can.

I did a search for "drillnado" can could not really find much in terms of reviews or it being mentioned between 2015 and this past year.

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #21 on: May 19, 2020, 11:14 PM »
Interesting that you brought up the drillnado. Mine has the same fate as yours--not getting used at all in my case because it couldn't be installed in my benchtop drill press which is some 20 years old.

Offline martin felder

  • Posts: 103
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2020, 01:05 AM »
Mine is a floor model-mount Powermatic.  I wonder if you would have liked it more with a different drill press or not.  Not seeing much about it.  Maybe time to toss.

Offline rst

  • Posts: 2423
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2020, 08:10 AM »
I use 2" Loklines for my drill press, milling machine and bandsaw.  I use the narrow end fitting as it increases velocity.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7521
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #24 on: May 20, 2020, 08:48 AM »
I installed this, it's adjustable for height and it comes with a wide angle collector nozzle. Especially nice when using Forstner bits.


Offline martin felder

  • Posts: 103
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2020, 08:37 PM »
Thanks for the picture.  My apologies if this was covered many times (did not find the answer).  As for using a CT-36 for something other than my Kapex or with my Festool Sanders (like rigging up drill press dust collection, how does that work with the connection to the vac?

I did read that the OD of what gets plugged into the Festool CT-36 is around 58mm which is around 2.25 inches.  I wanted to use a hose that is no smaller than necessary, and that seems to be 2 inches ID (readily available).  Therefore, it would seems like if I had a reducer 2.25 to 2 inch (OD), one end goes in the vac and the other allows the 2 inch ID hose to connect nicely with a hose clamp.  I can't find such a reducer except a metal exhaust one for exhaust pipes.

Any advice?

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7521
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #26 on: May 21, 2020, 09:47 AM »
I did read that the OD of what gets plugged into the Festool CT-36 is around 58mm which is around 2.25 inches.  I wanted to use a hose that is no smaller than necessary, and that seems to be 2 inches ID (readily available).  Therefore, it would seems like if I had a reducer 2.25 to 2 inch (OD), one end goes in the vac and the other allows the 2 inch ID hose to connect nicely with a hose clamp.  I can't find such a reducer except a metal exhaust one for exhaust pipes.

Any advice?

The dust collection nozzle/hose I showed has an end that's 2 1/4" OD x 2 1/8" ID. In my situation it worked out because the hose from the Milwaukee vacuum, which sits next to the drill press, fits perfectly snug.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/2-1-2-dust-source-rigid-flex-set?via=573621bd69702d0676000002%2C576455d369702d2f2f0013a2%2C5764564c69702d3c42000beb


Offline martin felder

  • Posts: 103
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #27 on: May 21, 2020, 03:32 PM »
Thanks.  I called my local Woodcraft, and they had that Wood River product in stock.  I asked if any end of that fit into the Festool CT-36.  They tried and said nope.

Any suggestion of something (adapter) that fits into a Festool vac other than a Festool hose?

Thanks again.

Online ChuckM

  • Posts: 1846
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #28 on: May 21, 2020, 05:25 PM »
Do you have any tubes, hoses, pipes and whatnot that you can fabricate a connector? I save odd pieces and sometimes they are what I need to complete a connection.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7521
Re: Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac
« Reply #29 on: May 21, 2020, 05:51 PM »
I just brought the Wood River hose over to my Kapex to check something. Well @martin felder today's your lucky day... [big grin]

Here's a photo of the standard 36 mm Festool hose and sleeve. This is the end that connects to the Kapex.




This shows the sleeve is a very snug (that's good) fit inside the Wood River item.




I'd call up Woodcraft and see if they stock the Festool sleeve and then give the 2 items a test drive yourself.
« Last Edit: May 21, 2020, 07:57 PM by Cheese »