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The spring is a good add. I have a couple hold-downs like that and they are a pain to keep aligned.
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Coming to grips with my vises...
« Last post by Richard/RMW on Today at 12:41 PM »
Nice Richard...🙏🙏🙏...really nice. That's the last model that Will-Burt manufactured before Gaydash took over the production and tried their hand at cost cutting.  [sad]

I really like the finish on it, is that painted? It almost looks like a hammer tone finish.

@Cheese seller said it was Hammerite Hammered Bronze. I'm not familiar with the product but it is really nice. He also found a replica sticker, overall I think I scored with this one.

Sadly, I think I've accepted that I'll never end up with a use for the large Morgan 200 I posted earlier. Removing the big rolling MFT cart was the best change I've made to the shop but it leaves me with no place for it. I'll probably offer it here soon, it's a really nice specimen.

RMW
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I guess the first question would be if you "blew up" (as you wrote) your isobarr or you tripped the breaker in it?  In quickly glancing at them just now I saw that they are rated for 15 amps but the internal circuit breaker is rated at 12 amps.  Personally I would lose using the Isobarr in this situation.

I regularly use my Kapex and either my old CT-22 or my newer CT-Midi on a 15 amp circuit plugged in thru the CT.

Peter

I'm with Peter on this...I used the Kapex with a Fein Turbo II for 7 years, then with the older MIDI for 6 months and finally with the new MIDI for the last 12 months. No issues what so ever.  [smile]

XENA is adorable Peter ❤️❤️
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Ask Festool / Re: Festool Recon Topic (compiled)
« Last post by GoingMyWay on Today at 12:35 PM »
Multi-Mode Rotex Sander RO 90 DX FEQ-Plus US just posted.
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I guess the first question would be if you "blew up" (as you wrote) your isobarr or you tripped the breaker in it?  In quickly glancing at them just now I saw that they are rated for 15 amps but the internal circuit breaker is rated at 12 amps.  Personally I would lose using the Isobarr in this situation.

I regularly use my Kapex and either my old CT-22 or my newer CT-Midi on a 15 amp circuit plugged in thru the CT.

Peter
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Well a quick look at the specs of your surge protector (https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3006344.pdf) says your strip is rated for output of 1440W and the CT MIDI says it might use as much as 2400W with a tool plugged in.

I have to say I, personally, always avoid using anything between the wall and a tool unless I absolutely have to use an extension cord. If that's the case I always over rate the cord.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Woodpecker Offset Base System
« Last post by squall_line on Today at 12:14 PM »
By this " I didn't test this theory with the paddles yet," did you mean that you hadn't used the paddles in your test cuts which had misalignment issues? If so, what did you use to register against the edge when you made the first mortise?

I was joining a pair of 1x2's to a 1x4 to create a channel to wrap/capture a wrought iron railing to provide a wider contact point for a baby gate.  The 1x2's were around 2/3 the overall length of the 1x4, and the 1x2s were two slightly different lengths, and it didn't bother me enough to make them the same length.  I used the paddle on the 1x2 on a horizontal plunge, and then lined the edge of the 1x2 up with the etched line in the base of the domino to start the vertical plunges in the 1x4.  If they were off, it wasn't going to hurt anything because the rest of the mortises were going to align from each other, rather than from the edge, and the 1x2s weren't placed with any necessary precision (other than mostly-centered lengthwise on the 1x4).  It was a quick-and-dirty project that I just needed to get knocked out.

@squall_line when you say your cutter head is off-center, do you mean it doesn't line up with the etched mark on the base? I'm asking because I just tried to calibrate my 2007 vintage Domino and mine is off the better part of 1mm. I'm debating sending it in for calibration if that's possible.

Because of this issue there is not enough adjustment range in the clear cursor to get it to align. My pins are also off, but they are adjustable so I should be able to correct that problem.

Thanks.

RMW

I think it might be, but I'm not sure.  And yes, that would be off-center in relation to the etched centerline on the base plate and/or cursor in the window.  This is on a fairly recent-vintage model from Recon, but I have an old classic-systainer'ed model with the pins that hasn't come out of its case since I purchased it last summer.  I would imagine for as much as it was used by its former owner, it's been dialed in, but maybe not.

I really just need to set aside a weekend to dial in all of my equipment, honestly.
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Coming to grips with my vises...
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 12:07 PM »
Nice Richard...🙏🙏🙏...really nice. That's the last model that Will-Burt manufactured before Gaydash took over the production and tried their hand at cost cutting.  [sad]

I really like the finish on it, is that painted? It almost looks like a hammer tone finish.
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Having recently use the cross stops for a mid-panel join, and following Sedge's advice to use an arrow to keep track of direction left-to-right on one piece, right-to-left on the other), I'm glad that I did a number of test cuts first.  Either my left and right stop are just that poorly engineered that they were noticeably out of alignment after 4 cuts, or my cutter head is off-center enough to cause the same issue.  I didn't test this theory with the paddles yet, since I a) didn't use them for my mid-panel join, and b) already know that they could be out of alignment themselves.

@squall_line when you say your cutter head is off-center, do you mean it doesn't line up with the etched mark on the base? I'm asking because I just tried to calibrate my 2007 vintage Domino and mine is off the better part of 1mm. I'm debating sending it in for calibration if that's possible.

Because of this issue there is not enough adjustment range in the clear cursor to get it to align. My pins are also off, but they are adjustable so I should be able to correct that problem.

Thanks.

RMW

This is a well known issue with the early machines. In most cases the plastic curser simply needed some filing to allow it to move over enough to correspond to the actual center of the mortise.
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Need to add to above.

If you did everything above and you know your technique was correct, the piece may have expanded in the center, it happens. Wait a few hours and remeasure.

You can also, without removing the saw from the rail, bring the saw back to the start of the rail and recut, if it only cuts the center it is an indication the center has expanded. You piece may be a little small after the sheet settles.

Finally, 1mm only in the center, over the length of the piece shown (I’m assuming 96-97”?) I would not be to concerned with.

Tom
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