Recent Posts

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Festool Announcements / Re: Festool TSV 60 plunge saw with scoring blade
« Last post by mrB on Today at 06:54 AM »
So my new £600 TS60 is less than 3 months old and is already superceded and obsolete. This one incident is enough to make me ditch Festool on a permanent basis. The perfect demonstration of 'how to immediately lose a long-standing and loyal professional user'.

It's been fun - but I'm done. Bye.

lol
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Festool Announcements / Re: Upcoming CXS / TXS 18
« Last post by mrB on Today at 06:47 AM »
Oooh. New festool drills, my favourite :)

Very intrigued by the C drill. I loved the cxs but sold it because it was never powerful enough to be my only drill on a project, and the T18 is hardly a bad performer in the delicate cabinetry installation department so . . The cxs was sold. But I’ve always missed it, and the C drill firm factor.

The C18 has terrible ergonomics imo (at least for me) and this new cxs 18 looks like it addresses those issues (thinner at the motor housing, no step above the trigger, more compact height)
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Prepping cabinets for paint
« Last post by Peter Halle on Today at 05:19 AM »
I might suggest that you think about substituting denatured alcohol in your step three to make sure any oils are eliminated. Just a thought.

Peter
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Prepping cabinets for paint
« Last post by bobtskutter on Today at 03:33 AM »
Are you using Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3?
In the UK I think that is latex based.
Zinsser Bin is their shellac based sealer & primer - I've have much more success with that.
I find Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is thick and goes on as a film, it doesn't sand very well.
Bin is very thin (if it's a new can) penetrates the surface and driers quickly.  It sands well and leaves a nice surface.
I'm normally applying Bin to builders yard plywood when making stuff for my kids rooms.

Regards
bob
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I've replaced the rubber feet on the bottom of an old Precisio CS 50 (same as the CMS) just because they went an off-colour and weren't as "rubbery" but other than that, I've not replaced any parts.

Also bear in mind that there's no rush here. From the Festool website...

"What happens if a spare part is no longer available within 10 years?
We guarantee that we will keep spare parts for your tool in stock for at least 10 years following the end of production. If we are unable to keep this promise, you will receive a new power tool as a replacement, free of charge.

Will spare parts no longer be available for my tool after the 10 years of guaranteed spare part availability?
For many tools, we keep spare parts in stock for significantly longer than 10 years after the end of production."
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Congrats — I have one and love it.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: 36mm Hose Compatibility
« Last post by NiteWalkerGR on Today at 01:06 AM »
@NiteWalkerGR

The Midi is the one on my shortlist, and in my price range. Do you like yours?
I love it. Compact, powerful, and built in bt is a game changer.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: 36mm Hose Compatibility
« Last post by Eko on Today at 12:30 AM »
@Crazyraceguy

I received several static shocks from my TSC 55 K the first few times I used it. I have no idea what the odds are of a static buildup being severe enough to damage the electronics but clearly the potential exists. If the worst happened I would be gutted having only had the track saw and router for less than a month.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: 36mm Hose Compatibility
« Last post by Eko on Today at 12:24 AM »
@NiteWalkerGR

The Midi is the one on my shortlist, and in my price range. Do you like yours?
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Other Tool Reviews / Dash-board system with accessories
« Last post by HowardH on Yesterday at 11:33 PM »
I've had the system going on 3 weeks and just finished up my first project using it which is a rolling cabinet for my Tormek 8. It arrived in several boxes as I ordered not only the basic bench but also the Platinum accessory package which includes, IIRC, pretty much all the available accessories. It came very well boxed and the only damage was to one of the outriggers. No biggie as Rob is going send me a replacement knob which was broken and I'll have to reset the leg stops. 



With the accessory kit, there are a lot of parts so you need to have a convenient place to keep it all together. I have a rolling utility cart and it works well for that purpose.

First impression? It's big and that's a double edge sword. It's much better than an MFT in the regard you can put a full length piece of ply and it's not going to fall off. 



The bad news it's big and it takes up a lot of room, especially with the outriggers attached. I have a 1.5 car garage  space and it's tight. Also, it's extremely well made and thought out. Rob's been working on it for decade, IIRC, and it shows. It's also very rigid. You can push it pretty hard and it doesn't rock. The legs are foldable so when you are done with it, just fold it up and lean it against the wall. It's also easier to square the guiderail to the table with the simple but ingenious set up blocks.  I no longer panic taking it on and off wondering how much trouble it's going to be to square it up.  Takes about 30 seconds. I also like the way it's designed where I will never have to cut into any part of the table other than the replaceable insert.  Even then, the kerf is always going to be in the same spot. 

Let's talk accessories. The Trackstars are movable brackets you can position along the 80/20 frame to extend the length of a cross cut if needed. For ripping a full length sheet of ply, it really makes it much easier and safer than trying to manhandle a heavy sheet of ply through a table saw. Again, once it's set up, being able to push the tracksaw through the sheet is preferable unless you have a tablesaw with a large side extensions and outfeed table or a full size slider. There is also a Rip Gauge which helps to set the distance between the Rip stops and splinter strip on the rail. It also works on both sides of the rail so you don't have to add or guess how much extra to cut off to allow the blade kerf when measuring from the right side of the rail. I wish it had some sort of measuring marks on it as it's a bit cumbersome to use a tape measure and have to hold the gauge until you can get the setting you want. The Outriggers are also great to support cut-offs on plywood so they don't fall to the floor.

I was also able to attach my Vacsys holder but the holes for the flange bolts are drilled for an mft and not the 80/20 so I going to have to make another one for this system.



The guiderail brackets are truly phenomenal.  Not flimsy feeling like the MFT's. Once tightened, they are rock solid. There is no provision, tho, for cutting at any other angle than 90 deg so if that's something you need, there is an aftermarket accessory you can get to accomplish that task.  Again, once it's set up, it's as square as one can get.  I did a 5-cut test and the results where within a few hundredths of a mm on a 300mm test piece.



One thing I discovered right away is if I continue to cut long rips of plywood, I have to go buy a much longer guiderail that will cover the entire distance rather than putting two shorter rails together.  I had to do it a couple of times already and it's huge pain in the 6 and it takes a lot of time.

Here are my observations. I got rid of my Sawstop contractors saw to make room for this.  I hated that saw for reasons not germane to this discussion. If you need to build cabinets and have a one man shop, this is a great system as it's infinitely safer than using a table saw.  On the other hand, and this also is a reflection on my unfamiliarity with the system at this point, there is a lot of set up you may need in order to complete a task on smaller part that would only take a few seconds on a table saw.  I found you really have to plan out your project in advance and know exactly what parts you will need because of the set up time.  Once it's set up though, you can make repeatable cuts in quick order like cabinet sides.  On my project, I didn't plan everything through very well and found I to re-setup the Trackstars when I ran out of material.  My bad on that.  I'm not a pro and don't carry an inventory of sheet goods.  On the other hand, the parts all came out dead square when used with the his own design parallel guides.  You will never need to use any other parallel guides nor will you want to once you get the hang of these.  At some point, after we move and I can get a dedicated shop, I'll probably get a Festool TKS-80 if I can figure out how to get one over here.  It's simply just going to make simple, one-off tasks much easier.

At the end of the day, I'm very satisfied that Rob has delivered what's promised in his system. It took a bit over 3 months to get it due to supply chain issues but I understand a lot of those issues have been resolved. I also believe there will be some tasks that are better suited to a regular table saw like ripping shorter pieces of hardwood, etc.  You can do all of that on this system but there's a setup that must be done compared to moving a fence to where you want it and turning on the saw with a table saw.  Again, I am still feeling my way around and I'm sure I'll get much faster at setting this up. Where this is going to shine is when I build my garage cabinets later on as I will be able to handle the task on my own. It's going to be helpful when more instructional videos come out to demonstrate best practices on using the system. I have read some of the comments about the cost and if you remember it has more capacity than 2 mft's bolted together, it's actually less expensive, at least until you start adding the accessories which are what really makes the system worthwhile. If you have a table saw and just want a long MFT with a better fence and guiderail brackets to cut sheet goods, then this makes a whole lotta sense in it's near basic configeration. 



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