Recent Posts

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tjb—that thought occurred to me ( injecting the shaft to a drill.
How well does it work?
Do you still need the T -track if using the drill for macro-adjustment?
And as Cheese asked, how did you modify the end knob?
2
That is older version of planex?

@Darius good question. The PLANEX LHS 225 was the "original" model introduced many years ago. This model has since been discontinued.

The PLANEX "Easy" was a version that was introduced about 4 years ago with the idea of simplifying the controls and reducing the price. The "Easy" lacks the ability to add/remove handle segments to change its length, for example. The PLANEX Easy is, and for the foreseeable future, will continue to be an active offering in the Festool lineup.

Most recently, the PLANEX LHS 225 Version 2.0 was introduced which keeps most of the features of the original PLANEX but adds new functionality like the LED lights around the head.

If you don't need to sand 10'+ ceilings or sand in the dark, the PLANEX Easy is a great option and the best value.

Hope that answers your question, but if not I'm happy to clarify more.

Thanks,
Shane
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For anyone still looking for a CMS GE, we just got a small shipment, while supplies last.

If our website says "in stock", we still have some. If the add-to-cart button is missing, we are sold out.

https://www.toolnut.com/festool-203158-cms-ge-router-table-set.html

Please tag me with @Shane Holland if you have a question or email me at shane@toolnut.com.

Thanks,
Shane

Was checking everyday, and had no hopes you would guys get it back in stock, and ordered from hartville! First time not ordering from you guys! So upset now lol
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That is older version of planex?
5
I would go with simplest and cheapest option first. Do a little testing and see how it was built. Depending on the build it may be easier than you expect. For example, I have found that most of the big home developers in San Diego do not really focus on high quality finishes and try to save every penny on construction and finishes. Therefore, most of the stuff you would want to rip out is cheap, poor quality, and likely installed by laborers and not trades people vs. some old build where they needed to float a mortar bed before installing tile. It's actually really horrible and so sad to think how many of these homes would not likely last 50 years and the environmental issues with our throw away culture...and considering the cost of real estate in CA.

Over last week I just demo'ed out my kitchen (20x16), a family room (18x25), and master bath (16x16) down to studs (home built in 1998 and I purchased 3 years ago). Kitchen backsplash popped out easy with a pry bar and I got lucky with the builder grade floor tile ...since it was installed over sheet vinyl. I feared the worse with the floor tile and thought it was going to be a horrible job, but after a quick few minutes of exploring the floor install method I quickly noticed the vinyl under the tile and each popped up with little effort. I had the whole floor pulled up and in a dumpster in a few hours.  I can only wish you the same good luck.
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This really starts to border on analysis paralysis, if this were my project I'd first attack it with a wide chisel and a 2#/3# hammer. If that works, then go forth using those items unless it's a 300 sq ft area...because then you definitely need an alternative method even if you think you'll be fine. This type of demo gets old in a hurry and if you've removed all the tile, that doesn't mean you've removed all of the adhesive/tile/tile pieces/grout and have attained a relatively smooth surface which is what needs to be done.

If the going is slow with the hammer & chisel, then just implement the next aggressive demolition step. Rinse & repeat until you find the tools that work...bigger is still better for this application guys.
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As for the new countertop, I'm thinking I'll either:
1. Install butcher block counters (easiest)
2. Pour concrete (I've poured concrete outside -- steps, footings, small foundations -- but have not done countertops)
3. Have quartz counters installed (something I'd rather hire out than DIY)
4. Solid Surface, like Corian. Festool gets the job done. There are full tutorials available online on how to do coves etc.

I would try to lift the counter enough to get a reciprocating saw blade in to cut the screws. Then remove as a unit.
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Ask Festool / Re: Conturo issue
« Last post by afish on Yesterday at 09:04 PM »
I had error 7 on mine. I had to send it in. best advise I can give you is document the issue with video. I sent mine in and they claimed they couldnt duplicate the problem which I find hard to believe since it wasnt an intermittent problem. I sent them the video showing the problem and they sent me a new one.  hae i not made a video prior to mailing it im not sure what would have happened.
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Ask Festool / Re: Conturo issue
« Last post by squall_line on Yesterday at 08:53 PM »
I'm just quoting the manual, as I have no direct experience with it:

Problem:
Error symbol appears on the display [1-20].

Possible causes:
The machine electronics have detected a serious error.

Remedy:
Switch off the machine by pressing the on/off switch [1-8] and allow to cool for a few minutes.
Switch on the machine again by pressing the on/off switch [1-8].
If the error symbol appears again, contact after-sales service.


Did you have any other error conditions before it started doing this?  Bad adhesion, loss of contact, overheating, etc?
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Ask Festool / Conturo issue
« Last post by clearcut on Yesterday at 08:43 PM »
Hi everyone

My conturo stopped keeps shutting down.
A book with exclamation mark comes up with a number 9 beside it.

Anyone knows what that means?
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