Recent Posts

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I'm still using a CT-22. Wish I could get one of those.
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The model that I have for my Ct-22 didn't have threads - it was just a push in fit.

Peter
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Finishing and Painting / Re: 3M PPS Series 2 - Fuji
« Last post by DynaGlide on Today at 06:22 AM »
Any further information on the 2.0 and Fuji release availability?

By the way the lid and liner kit @ddjeske linked to #26000 is for their 200 micron filters (white). I'll be doing waterborne so I believe I'll need #26301 per https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1451272O/pps-2-0-spray-cup-system-part-number-reference-guide.pdf

as well as #26003 S2C adapter for the T75G gun and #26124 H/O 28oz cup 2.0.

Anything I'm missing?

Edit: I called Fuji and they won't have the new system to play with until later this year. Then I called 3M and ended up with a very friendly and knowledgeable woman. She said the H/O 2.0 cup is currently available in 6oz and 28oz. She strongly recommended not using the 22oz liners I linked above in the 28oz cup as they may not be properly supported and if you're using a heavier paint for example it could cause the liner to crack. She mentioned they were told there are manufacturing issues on the H/O cups and to expect stock late September but if I can find one there are no known design changes just that 'something' caused a delay in manufacturing. So for me using the T75G:

#26003 S2C adapter
#26325 28oz lids and liners
#26124 28oz H/O cup

@DynaGlide  (and others) I'm just looking at the cost to change over from PPS 1.0 to PPS 2.0. I have the Fuji G-XPC gun so I need:

#26110 #S24 gun adapter
#26124 H/O Cup
#26325 125-micron lids/liners/plug/non-press cup (#26024 for 200-micron)

...why does the #26325 lid/liner/plug kit also have a non-pressure cup included? This makes this kit expensive plus I notice you can purchase lids in packs of 25 but liners only come in packs of 100. 100 is way too many for me.

I already have the 1.0 and have spare liners. Can someone confirm it looks like the 28 oz. liners are the same for the 1.0 and 2.0?

Thanks
Mike

I think a call to 3M is in order. You want their automotive applications division and if you get the right person they'll be able to help you out.
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A long time ago, back when I worked for a festool distributor, this was available in NA. Was never a big seller from what I saw though. This was back in the days of the CT22 and CT33. Those vacs had a threaded hole in the top that would accept this accessory. Now that I'm typing this, I'm not sure if the newer CT's have that or not.
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Member Projects / Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Last post by Jiggy Joiner on Today at 04:35 AM »
Just an opinion Derek but, I think the planted front would be accepted in this scenario.
It’s difficult enough if there were just two drawers but, a third makes it a bigger headache. I know you have the purist mindset, but the majority of the time, the drawers will remain closed, and the table will still look beautiful.
Only the purists or people that are like minded to you, would pick up on the planted front.
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Festool How To... / Re: Home made MFT help, am I out of my mind?
« Last post by DiscoStu on Today at 03:14 AM »
I have one fence on my MDT table and I use bench dogs in the same holes so my cut line is always the same. My biggest fear is that I’ll forget to set the depth correctly and cut through the entire top one day but so far it’s been perfect and just the one cut line. It must has stayed true as well because the cut line is only the blade kerf thick even though it’s done hundreds of cuts so there’s been no need to replace the channel. Anything other than 90 degrees then I cut off of the MFT type top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Festool How To... / Home made MFT help, am I out of my mind?
« Last post by StevoWevo on Today at 03:09 AM »
Guys I have been working on a smallish work surface to use in my little spare bedroom work space. I’m thinking about routing in some incra t-track+ And possibly some miter channel. Reason being, so I can slide a fence from the rear of the table forward. Also another fence to slide sideways on the right of the guide rail for off-cutting.
 My thought was this arrangement would keep the cut lines in two general areas where I could replace small strips of the top and extend the life of the surface and keep cuts away from the dog holes.
 So am I nuts? Over complicating things?  I’v got zero experience trying to build one of these so any advice or criticism is welcome. Thanks
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Ask Festool / Re: Edge Joining with domino
« Last post by ChuckM on Today at 12:28 AM »
Not sure if this American Woodworker article is helpful to you: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-3614-stronger-shelves/

There is nothing that can provide more rigidity to a shelving than a vertical support in the middle. One way to hide the centre support, in the case of a bookcase, is to glue a bookspine to the front edge of the support so the support looks like a book on the shelf (the support is trimmed narrower to accommodate the spine). In the credenza shown below, the dadoed centre support is hidden behind the sliding doors.
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Ask Festool / Re: Edge Joining with domino
« Last post by tjbnwi on Today at 12:05 AM »
I do not think the edge joining has any affect in this scenario. You have not increased the thickness of the material.

Tom
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: New to Conturo need advice
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 11:55 PM »
To be clear, there will be a small amount of glue on the roller. After 100 feet or so, I do peel off the glue.

Tom
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