Recent Posts

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I think you're talking about the XRF tests.  I haven't done any of those.. just the leadcheck swabs on the interior (positive in a few spots, negative in others).  As @Brice Burrell mentioned - the downside to getting a formal test done is that I would be obliged to disclose it in the near future.  On the other hand, in this area, I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes.. the city of Pittsburgh is mostly old houses and lead paint is pretty common in a 90 year old house like mine.

The issue is once the presence of lead paint is documented the perspective buyer(s) can use it as leverage against your price.  If you can honestly say you don't know then they can't.

Agreed, it isn't a great time.  The alternative is that it gets worse and flakes/alligators/crumbles more... which seems like a worse option to me. You know any paint contractors around town who are able to follow RRP rules?  [smile]

I don't know any contractors that kept up with the RRP protocol.
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I’ve had an eye out for a used 500 but the ones in decent shape are not far off retail (probably a good thing). I have the 700 but think the 500 is more right sized for my work.

When I checked into the Emerald and saw it not only had a blue Systainer but also three additional bits I wanted one but they were sold out....until I contacted Jon at Flagg. Wouldn’t hesitate to deal with him again.

Mike
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Festool How To... / Adjusting HKC55 to guide rail splinter guard
« Last post by cpw on Today at 10:01 PM »
I have a TS75 and an HKC55.  My FS guide rails splinter strips were cut for the TS75 that I bought first.  I was working with my HKC55 to cut some plywood using the FS rail, and neglected to adjust the HKC to cut at the existing splinter strip so that I can use my rails with both saws.  Needless to say, I ended up cutting it tighter to the rail, so the TS75 no longer cuts accurately on the splinter strip.  I looked in the HKC55 manual, and could not find the instructions on how to make the adjustment.

Can anyone give me some pointers here?

Thanks,
Charles
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mrFinpgh

I know you noted in your first post that no testing had been done yet.  One thing I learned during my time with RRP was that often times there was no lead at all in a property, or at most very little (confined to just the window trim, for example). There was one realtor in particular who was very good about getting her clients to get the testing done before we were called to do work on the property. One figure that sticks in my mind is that testing for a three floor pre-1978 townhouse was a bit over $400.  In that instance the testing resulted in Zero lead detected in the house and the $400 spent was far less than what would have been spent doing all the work under the RRP guidelines.

So, in your case, maybe testing will result in no-lead present at least in some areas and that would greatly reduce your costs and hassles in dealing with this.

I think you're talking about the XRF tests.  I haven't done any of those.. just the leadcheck swabs on the interior (positive in a few spots, negative in others).  As @Brice Burrell mentioned - the downside to getting a formal test done is that I would be obliged to disclose it in the near future.  On the other hand, in this area, I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes.. the city of Pittsburgh is mostly old houses and lead paint is pretty common in a 90 year old house like mine.

Quote
I'd say your timing for doing this job is terrible.

Agreed, it isn't a great time.  The alternative is that it gets worse and flakes/alligators/crumbles more... which seems like a worse option to me. You know any paint contractors around town who are able to follow RRP rules?  [smile]



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I used a Kreg jig to do the holes for my Sys-AZ slides, it worked ok.
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Would not have thought that Snap-on would have a reciprocating saw.  I guess that is in their bodywork line?

Double sided blades is a great idea.  Definitely can see the benefit and will try to find them here in the states.

So those are essentially threaded inserts with a flat lip on the back side that then have a flat head screw that goes into them.  I've seen them for knock-down furniture, but never for larger construction.  I guess you could not easily have driven them back through the wall?

Thanks for sharing more tool inspiration!  and house progress!
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Sales & Dealer Area / Re: OF 1400 Emerald Edition
« Last post by Kevin C. on Today at 09:24 PM »
I have been on the hunt for one as well. Should have jumped on it months ago, but if I can find one now I would jump on it.
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Festool Tool Problems / Re: RO 150 backing pad
« Last post by Delanox on Today at 08:46 PM »
Just had this happen to me - the foam becomes totally soft and the Velcro sheared off the Black plastic retaining circle on first go.  I haven’t had to sand anything for years so very disappointed when this happened. So I felt my green and blue pads - same thing. These do not have a long shelf life - festool should print sell by dates on these pads as the foam seems to age and rapidly deteriorate. I’m one of those guys who loves to buy all the extra bits - in this case a bit of advice that these don’t store well would put the service on par with what I would expect from the tool. In this case, both outcomes have been sub par.
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Was wondering where to source the gray table that clamps on the router table. Many thanks.
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General Friendly Chat / Re: FOG Wear
« Last post by Brice Burrell on Today at 08:16 PM »
....I think the FOG logo is pretty killer  [big grin]

Shane

You would think that. [tongue]

Welcome to the FOG Nic.
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