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Member Projects / Re: Help finishing my late neighbors cabinet
« Last post by Rob Z on Today at 01:14 PM »
That looks similar to the way my Grandfather built framework for  drawers in cabinets and under benches.  Could you remove the other door to show a picture of the full width?

If I had something like that I would be tempted to finish the drawer inserts and use it for small tools such as chisels, squares and so forth.

That's nice you get to keep something made by your neighbor.
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Member Projects / Re: Adirondack Chairs and Deck Cooler
« Last post by Rob Z on Today at 01:08 PM »
Quality beer accessory !  [big grin]

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I think it is correct that US folks move around far more than people in most countries.  This is an issue in getting people to build better homes and things related to them. People don't want to put money into something they figure they will just move from in a few years. Look how many people have no interest in solar panels, they see it takes 5 years to pay back the cost and they balk at the idea.  Or roofs, a metal roof will last forever but cost more than a fiberglass shingles that will last 15 years, so they stick with the fiberglass shingles cause they figure they won't be around.
Unless the average lifetime of the buildings is way too low in general it should make sense for a property owner to go for the persistant option, from it increasing the retail value (as the next owner won't need to fix it again for a foreseeable future).

That seems reasonable but the situation is far more complex than that.  Without a lengthy discussion it boils down to money today.  Most will agree a tile roof will last 2-5x longer than an ashphalt shingle. The cost at install is 5-10x more.  And that money is due today. It takes a loooong time to recover the xtra spend.

Most people will recognize the maintence benefit when purchasing , but are not willing to cough up the 5-10x needed to pay for the original job. Coupled with the frequent moving trend, there's no way for the original purchaser to recoup on their choice to buy the better product. 

Short of it is , there just isn't a return on the investment in better quality products in the USA.

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I did hear some faint buzzing, about once every ten seconds, but no way I could really know what component in the panel was causing this.

The faint buzzing sound is not a good thing.
Could have been the microwave, arcing somewhere would be at less regular intervals.
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Member Projects / Re: Help finishing my late neighbors cabinet
« Last post by jobsworth on Today at 12:48 PM »
Like Rob said very nice traditionally made cabinet. Could be used for a number of thing , sorting paper for your computer, storing sanding paper etc. Id use Mohawk finishes wipe on stain to even the color out. Let it dry thoroughly go over it with their top coat. I found their top coat was a bit pricey. Very strong and durable but a bit pricey. If you can find it in qts and brush it on use the its. Gal was a bit pricey.

Bc I couldt find a it in qt size (I was in Oregon chasing stain down) ad I already had some GF endure WB. I used that. It will work if you let the OB stain dry thoroughly.

Make a couple of sacrificial pieces stained at the same time as test pieces to make sure the OB stain has completely dried or You'll run into problems. It does have to be dry. I set mine out in the hot sun for a day and Half to make sure it was dry, then allplied the finish with no problems.

To bad you live so far Im in the OC. If you cant find the mohawk stain or finish give these guys a call. Looks lke they got laquer on sale. heyll help you with what you need. Stain and finishing is what they do.

https://woodrepairproducts.com

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Festool How To... / Re: Kapex - Calibrating 90 Degree Setting
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 12:45 PM »
which way do I move the scale?  too the left or to the right?
That depends on which side you used for checking.

Simple solution: take a (preferably as wide as the cut capability) scrap with a straight edge (to use for referencing against the fence), make a cut, let the saw come to rest, lock the head in transport position, flip the workpiece over while putting it on the other side of the blade (the edge used to reference against the fence there, upside now down) with the fresh cut touching the blade.

Then look if the front of the blade touches the cut: in case it does you'll have to turn the blade away from where the workpiece now rests, in case it dosn't (cut closed at the fence) you need to turn the blade toward the side the workpiece now is.
The scale moves with the blade.
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I did hear some faint buzzing, about once every ten seconds, but no way I could really know what component in the panel was causing this.

The faint buzzing sound is not a good thing.  [eek]    I'd want to address that issue first. Using an IR camera or a IR thermometer, probe every breaker connection to determine if all the connection points are approximately the same temperature. An intermittent/faulty connection will produce a higher junction temperature. This can usually be corrected by tightening the connection screw. In a worst case scenario, the corroded/arced end of the offending wire may need to be clipped slightly to produce a clean wire end for reconnection.

As others have pointed out, a buried junction box somewhere in the circuit could also be a partial culprit. They can be tough to find and are illegal but they're unfortunately quite common especially in older houses. 60+ years provides a lot of opportunity for someone to "upgrade" the electrical circuit.  [smile]
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GFCI  somewhere ?
That wouldn't have reset on it's own after it tripped...
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GFCI  somewhere ?

They are common / required in garages these days.  Not so much in homes from the last century.
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Festool How To... / Re: Kapex - Calibrating 90 Degree Setting
« Last post by jobsworth on Today at 12:29 PM »
. Photos would help. Its hard to help you if we dont know what were dealing with.

It might be better if you called festool service. Or bring it to a brick and mortar who specialises in festools.
 Im sure they can help you sort this out
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