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Easy, mark out your hole, then use a 1/4'' bit to drill holes inside the edge with the absolute minimum distance you can get them, then, when you've made swiss cheese from the inner core, chisel it away and then smooth out the edges with a rasp and vile.

If you absolutely want to buy a hole saw, this one of Bosch should work for a single hole:

Or take your paver to a contractor, stone worker or somebody like that who ones a hole saw, and pay him 25 bucks to drill that hole for you.

Member Projects / Re: MFS guide with patter bit query
« Last post by CeeJay on Today at 03:21 AM »
Yup that’s what I got to thanks to all the good advice here.

It’s 38mm diameter, 19mm radius as far as I can tell.

I have advised Timbecon their website and instructions are incorrect!

So pleased I bought the wrong bits first up.....

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Member Projects / Re: MFS guide with patter bit query
« Last post by AstroKeith on Today at 02:57 AM »
Surely you establish the corner radius by the cutter radius, not the copy ring radius.
OK that’s what is confusing me.

It’s possible I’m using the wrong cutter. The supplier of the router lift says to use  a 5/8” bit, which I did, in a 30mm copy ring. This didn’t work, the radius was too large.

So perhaps the suppliers instructions are incorrect.

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Lets be clear, in a square template, the copying ring has no effect on corner radius. It is completely down to the cutter diameter. The copying ring needs to clear the cutter shaft etc, but other than that you can use what ever size you have to hand. You will need to adjust the template opening size to account for the copying ring to cutter diameter, but that is the only impact.

So key here is finding out what cutter diameter you need - measure the table insert to be sure.
Two additional photos from cuts.

I went ahead and ripped the remaining 4 panels with the TS55 and then cut the other edge on my table saw and all seem to be pretty dead on. Went back with guiderail square and TS55. Same error at start of cut. The second cut isn’t square from the opposite edge. Going to test my 18 and 24” blades but seemed to have issues with them in the 12” anvils from Starrett and PEC, so maybe they need to be in the larger anvils idk.

Maybe since I’m using stock guides/table saw its compensating for the error there? I really wouldn’t care if randomly it chipped in the middle but just seems this plays into my issue with nothing ever ending up square.

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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Router Bit Identification
« Last post by Roseland on Today at 02:26 AM »
Could you not just add a bearing to one of these?:

Any recommendation for paint that dust won’t stick to? Would like to do a white that helps light the space on plywood or T111 but know dusty walls is a thinn ive dealt with on drywall shops so wondering if there’s something good I can coat it with?
I need to drill one 115mm/4.5" hole – ish, it just needs to provide reasonable clearance for 4" triple wall drain pipe) – (or maybe two if I blow it the first time  :)) in a concrete paver. I'm thinking that I would use my Milwaukee M18 SDS-plus hammer drill, but I'm striking out all over the place looking for a bit. I was hoping to find a semi-serviceable "one-hole wonder" on Amazon (I don't see too many more downspouts going through pavers in my future), I'd be willing to buy a Bosch Speedcore (or the like), but my Google foo just isn't working and I'm either coming up empty handed or finding $500+ bits that look like they can cut an 8" core…

So, I'm looking for suggestions. A source for a 4.5" SDS core bit, other ideas for bits (I stumbled on claims that the Sypder carbide bits will cut brick, but haven't found an SDS mandrel – would a conventional mandrel work in an SDS chuck adapter?), or tricks for cutting a relatively clean round hole in concrete pavers.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Systainer inserts
« Last post by Peter_C on Today at 01:27 AM »
There are lots of options. The 125 paper might fit better going left to right instead of front to back. Save the labels from the boxes and you can put them onto the dividers.;board=festool-tools-accessories;topic=abrasives-systainer.msg128192#msg128192
What do you mean blade no longer fits or difficult to get in? Hole does not fit over arbor?
Forget the recommended toe-in, it's nothing but trouble. Adjust the blade strictly parallel to the rail and try that.

This is not about the toe in setting ..................   see up thread.

I was planning to buy one from the moment I saw it.  This is just so stupid I can barely comment.

I get not doing it for 150 as it would probably mean a whole other unit, and that is a big sander to use on an edge. Obviously if you only have a 150mm sander, you want one, but just having giant sander is odd to me.  Of course someone could then say why not make this just for the 90mm sanders.

Also designing it for the battery sanders....why?   Cordless sanders only have a limited amount of logic in the first place, as dust collection on sanders is a must for the most part and one of the core concepts, like the other tools, once you are connected to an extractor, the cord doesn't matter much.  Cordless makes sense more for working up on a ladder someplace, and for that, you won't be using this add on.  It's pretty much an add on for working in shops. It's basically a tool for working on doors and table tops, and cabinets.

To be blunt, if it only worked on ETS EC 125, I could understand that.  But to make it not work on the most obvious sander for such a tool, I just can't grasp that.
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