These are so dependent on what type of work you do and how you like to do it (meaning my experience/advice may be worthless to you), but for what it's worth:

The story stick looks cool, but I think you pretty much have to use the plastic tabs.  Otherwise, the scale is way up off the material, and the 49.5/1257 will be much easier to read.  Unless you're using it for its intended purpose all the time (multiple, repetitive markings) I think it'll be a lot harder to use than the "regular" rule.

Also:

• Love my 1281, but I don't find it great for measuring, so I wouldn't have any need for one each in metric/imperial. It's so thick (which is good for the things I do with it) that I don't like using the scale - it's too far off the material for me.  If I'm trying to measure or mark with the scale, I'll use something else.
• How do you use your TS-32? Do you use it to check for square and draw lines perpendicular to the reference edge, or do you use the holes to draw lines parallel to your reference edge?  If you use the holes, are you using the length, or are you more often close to the reference edge?  If you're not using those far away holes, I'm not sure how much the TS600 gets you.  They'll be the same for squaring and drawing perpendicular lines, and if you're just using it as a rule, you could do that with an actual rule (the 1257/49.5 with a hook stop, for example).  If you like the holes, but are mostly closer to the reference edge, I cannot overstate how much I like my saddle t-squares.  I have the 300 and the 100, and they make marking go so quickly. But they obviously lack the length of the 600/32.

I have no experience with or insight on the Delve or Paolini.  People seem to love those Paolinis, though.

In my opinion, the Paolini Rule is the best tool from Woodpecker. I use more than any other measuring tool (expect for my fast cap tape measure). If ever lost, I will likely break down in tears and quit the hobby. I do have the story stick and it comes in handy when needed. Surprisingly and disappointingly, I have found that I don't like the 1281(too clunky) and reach for my Starrett combination square or the Paolini Rule most times. I guess I eventually need to sell some of the stuff I don't use or like. Just my two cents...

I cannot overstate how much I like my saddle t-squares.  I have the 300 and the 100, and they make marking go so quickly. But they obviously lack the length of the 600/32.

Do the saddle squares bottom out on 3/4" material?

Well after all the input here I think I have decided to sell what I have and go SS and Metric.

The 1281 is the square I use the most - for marking and checking square.

I do own the Story Stick. However, I have never used the full length of it for anything. I almost always use the first section for cabinets and other pieces where I want to duplicate a measurement. All the extensions were a waste of money for me but maybe if you do a lot of plywood work the full 96" may be useful. I don't do that type of work.

I also own and use the Pocket T-Squares (all 3 - 3", 6", 8") for marking. I find them very useful with a 9mm lead for marking a specific distance along the length or width of a board.

I own a 6" Carpenter's Square and do find it useful, but I use the 1281 much more often unless I need a smaller square to fit inside.

Other than that, I do own other WP stuff but it's kind of a luxury. I own the WP MFT Square and feel that it's one of those things I bought, use all the time to check the squareness of the miter head on my MFT, and then feel completely confident it is square. Could I get along without it? Sure, but I love the confidence it gives me when I use it just for that purpose.

I own some other WP stuff, but these are the tools I use the most.

I have 2 of the long rules with 2 rule stops. I use both of them for making cabinets. I set each rule stop at a different dimension and I can mark every cabinet side without moving the rule stops. More accuracy, more uniformity and it's faster. All I need are 2 marks for the proper placement of the TS guide rail.

Just remember, that if you're working outside, keep the anodized rules/squares out of the sunlight as it fades the anodizing and they can become almost impossible to read.

I have the rule and the story stick.  I use the story stick more.  Use it a lot for domino placement.  It's also been handy when I'm trying to lay out drawer spacers on a carcass.  I've also used it for setting offsets for 32mm hole placement on cabinet sides.

I have the 49.5" rule with end stop and two adjustable stops.  It gets used but not as much as the story stick Pro.

I bought a large stainless blade square for squaring my MFT but the stainless blade tends to slip under the rail. For that particular job, I think an aluminum blade square would work better. But, for everything else, it's a fine tool, and augments my shorter Bridge City square nicely.

I use a 26" Woodpeckers square for my rail squareness checking which also slides under the rail as I like to check it with the rail set to the height I plan to cut at. The simple solution is a piece of wood that supplies enough height to keep the square at rail height. Since my fence is 1/2" I keep a 1/4" piece of MDF nearby so I can easily square the rail, and also use the MDF for cutting thinner material, by placing it under what I am cutting. Works for me.

Just remember, that if you're working outside, keep the anodized rules/squares out of the sunlight as it fades the anodizing and they can become almost impossible to read.

You should write to the manufacturer. The anodizing should be sealed after application. Some of these sealers are highly UV resistant. The nickel based versions are supposed to be very good.

All dyes fade.  The dye manufacturers rate the UV resistance; anything with a rating of 8 or higher should give good service.

Most manufacturers are not knowledgeable about finishes, so by notifying them, you will be doing them a service.

Also ask them if they could offer a black finish option in the future. Many black dyes are highly UV resistant.

They can re-anodize the ruler, but without a process change it will be more of th same.

Great start