I hadn't realized you could dial in the width setting. Now I want one, but a new anchor, ground tackle, and VHF are first. I just use one of the plastic feather boards turned at an angle. It tends to cause more friction than desired, but I have never found it didn't work.

My 5 sided (might be 6 sides as I didn’t really look) washers fit snugly in my SawStop miter slot. I did some test cuts today and they were perfect.

The is so much safer for small strips than ripping them against the fence.  I also received mine and was using it today.  Works great!

Using on the Sawstop Jobsite Saw and it works well with it.

On my unit, the nut doesn’t go into the slot. The washer with flat sides goes into the slot.

We're either calling the same thing different names or your kit is missing the miter slot nut. Methinks it's the former.

Anyway, it's a nice piece of kit.

The nut (which I have been calling a washer) on my unit measures 22.4mm flat to flat and 25.1mm corner to corner. My miter slots on my SawStop Industrial measure 24.7mm for both. So, there is very little interference.

Snip.
I still prefer the second method because the fence never has to be reset and you don’t have that repeatability issue to deal with.

Snip.

It's true that once the fence needs to be reset in the process, no matter what jig you use, the same thickness of the strips cannot be guaranteed. One can argue that the difference can be minor, but the difference is there, depending on how many strips/resetting you go through.

I have a sled with an adjustable shoe for cutting strips without resetting the fence, but as you said, it can't handle long strips:



The most accurate and consistent method is to rip strips by setting the fence to the required thickness, and keep it until all the strips are cut (method #1 in the Wood video). To overcome the control issues, I use a featherboard AND a push block that straddles both the strip and the blade as the stock is fed near the end. The WS block is shown below:



No burn marks whatsoever even for long strips -- provided the table saw is properly tuned.

The Micro jig Grr-ripper has a 1/8" leg to rip thin strips without moving the fence. But I don't consider 1/8" thin.

What about thin strips that don't require a 0.01mm tolerance? I use my featherboard (round cornered) in conjunction with the JessEm stock guides, which does require resetting the fence:

Reminder: Always use a zci when ripping thin strips. Kickbacks and bad injuries can happen if ripping is done on a non-zci.

Also, short pieces are especially prone to a variation on kick-backs where the stock kicks up. 

I ended up in the emergency room after a “kick up” tore off my fingernail. Snip.

Ouch!

This YouTuber learned his lesson about the non ZCI after suffering from a kickback hurting his arm:






By the way, I have a countless supply of ZCIs for my SawStop...by "bondoing" the throat plate periodically:

Anthony,

I recharge the ZCI about twice a year, depending on the condition, but never more than 3 times according to my memory.

This one was refreshed about 4 months ago (Edit: March 2 to be exact; the SS is my most used machine in the shop, followed by the DF500, the drill press, and then the Kapex):



I also have a spare ZCI which is used once in a blue moon if the regular one is waiting for the Bondo to cure (I allow 24 hours). The spare has never been "Bondoed":




I haven't tried this on the dado ZCI, which is now hardly used as the DF500 has almost eliminated the need for dadoes.