My Blum screwdriver does work better on Blum hardware.  But why was it necessary for them to reinvent the Philips head screw?

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

Pozi-drive is effectively Phillips with the stupid removed. The tapered sides, of the Phillips, which allow for the cam-out, are replaced by straight edges. You get a similar ease of driver use, but a far better user-experience.
Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it sill drives just fine.

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

-snip-

Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it still drives just fine.

I went through my driver bits this week and found messy piles of Robertson bits. Still using the first two from the pack. Like you, I use them nearly exclusively. I do have some excellent self-driving Torx screws; I do like Torx as well although it's much nicer to have just 3 sizes of Roberston (honestly have never used a #3). Flat-head screwdrivers are really just paint-can openers in disguise.

PB Swiss slotted screwdriver No. 4/ 6.5x1.0mm VSM with striking cap.

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Curious to see how this one is going to perform over my 9XX series Wera screwdrivers, which I have lately ruined one from.


Kind regards,
Oliver

Oooh nice. I never got around to buying those, but I have the regular PB Swiss ones, with the same "Swissgrip" design.
PB excels with it's slotted screwdrivers because the end is parallel so it doesn't cam out. I never understood why 99% of other slotted screwdrivers seem to be designed to cam out.

Quote from: Packard on January 18, 2023, 04:04 PM

My Blum screwdriver does work better on Blum hardware.  But why was it necessary for them to reinvent the Philips head screw?

Because they suck, every last one of them sucks, and so does Henry Ford for sticking us with them, when everyone knows that Robertson was way superior. (still is)

Pozi-drive is effectively Phillips with the stupid removed. The tapered sides, of the Phillips, which allow for the cam-out, are replaced by straight edges. You get a similar ease of driver use, but a far better user-experience.
Some people just don't like (or have easy access to) Robertson (square drive). I use them every day and keep the same driver bit, in an impact driver, for years at a time. The one I am using currently is 3 years old. It's a Milwaukee, that came in a 5 pack. I've given some away, because I didn't feel the need to hold onto spares so much. That one bit has driven multiple thousands of screws. The red plastic coating is gone from the shank, but it sill drives just fine.

PZ and especially PH bits will 'find their way' in the screwhead. Torx a bit less. Allen (hexagonal) only when the rounded bits that massively increase the risk of stripping out the hexagon. I image Robertson bits have the same issue with 'finding their way'? Compared to stripping out the screw the Robertson is superior to hex of course but it comes at the trade-off of only have 4 ways to position it, equal to PZ and PH, while Torx and hex offer six. I can't remember ever having had to loosen a Robertson screw. I am fine with them staying at the other side of the Atlantic to give more marketshare to Torx  . I buy all the screws I need with Torx head, unless six-fold more expensive. Bicycles usually have allen bolts here, and I have those from the bottom of my heart.

Even the flush-mounted boxes I get with Torx screws. There are (mainly) two companies selling those here; Attema and ABB. Attema still lives in the 19th century using slotted screws everywhere. I buy the boxes from ABB, they use TX8 / SL combo screws in them. For renovation purposed I have an assortment of longer M3 and M4(*) screws with Torx head, but while ABB uses TX8, the regular M3 comes with TX10. TX8 sadly doesn't come standard in the "normal" sets.
*; M4 is used in the central junction boxes in the ceiling. ABB supplies the lids (sold separately in different types) with PZ/SL combo screw... Attema with slotted screw. No clue why anyone would ever want to mount slotted screws overhead. Perhaps that explains that a lot of folks ruin the brass threads in the box by putting a wood screw in there...

I've been having some issues with the Morse 1 taper in the tailstock of the lathe releasing tooling prematurely. I tried to assess the condition using Dykem layout ink but that doesn't work well because it dries and it's a tough film to break through.

I decided to try Dykem Hi-Spot also called Prussian Blue. Unlike layout ink, it doesn't dry because it has a grease base and it rubs off of the hi spots and repositions itself to the low spots. So high spots shiny...low spots blue.

Let's see where the issues are.

Order about 5 weeks ago, and showing up tomorrow, dashboardps table and accessories.

I am so excited, and looking forward to all the new capabilities.

Drywall guys use them specifically for the cam-out. This keeps them from breaking the paper, while still going deep enough to be covered in mud.
These are screws that are never intended to be removed. It does wear out those bits though.
That's to only good reason/place for them now a days. Power drivers with quality clutches have made it so that nearly every other type of drive is better. Drywallers can keep them.
Like I said before, I have been using the same #2 Robertson since we moved in September of '19
That translates to multiple 10s of thousands of screws. Phillips can't do that.

The "Blum" screwdriver fits better because it is Pozi-driv, not because it is Blum specifically.

Well I have ben on a buying binge lately.  But arriving today was a bargain box of pressure sensitive sandpaper end of rolls from Klingspor.  5 lbs worth for 19.99plus tax and shipping.  Great deal.  Link if anyone interested:  https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BB10000/

Also a Japanese hand plane.  And small metal tins larger than Altoid boxes, and...

Peter

 

Can't wait to see what you find.  What machine are you running?

The lathe is an old Atlas metal lathe model 6-18 circa 1962 or thereabouts. The nice thing about these older smaller lathes is the small footprint they require and the precision they are capable of producing. Material removal rates of .001" is the everyday norm and with a little tuning and carbide tooling, I'm sure .0005" passes would be easy. For really critical dimensions I'd imagine a grinding wheel attachment could produce metal removal rates in the .0001" range. These are pretty fun pieces of equipment because of their precision.
They exist in a niche between conventional small tool room lathes and watch making lathes.

I received my package of Gorilla mounting tape. Hugely disappointing.  Low tack.  You have to be especially careful not to touch the surface of the tape or it will have nearly zero tack.

I was planning on using it to position drawer fronts prior to screwing on.  These are being returned to Amazon.com.  I will replace them with mirror mounting squares from Lowes.

The ad was vastly exaggerated.

Quote from: Packard on January 26, 2023, 09:32 AM

I was planning on using it to position drawer fronts prior to screwing on.  These are being returned to Amazon.com.  I will replace them with mirror mounting squares from Lowes.

I use turner's tape for that. Isn't mounting tape generally kinda thick? There have definitely been times where I taped the drawer front to the box to drill the holes then simply screwed them in place leaving the tape there for someday.

The foam mounting tape (3M) is quite thick, but it compresses to nearly nothing under pressure.  I mount drawer fronts with either two or four cabinet wood screws in addition to the handle screws.  Tightening these screws is sufficient to nearly fully compress the foam. 

I had not thought about that aspect.  The clear carrier that Gorilla uses for this tape seemed to not compress at all.  In any event, I dropped the tape off at Kohls, and just now received an email notice that the return was accepted and my account was credited with the full amount.

I would note that 3M mounting tape comes in various strengths.  The stuff we find in the stores is light duty.  There is “industrial” stuff that you can find online.  And there is really strong stuff that apparently is not available to the public—at least I have never seen it sold. 

Some automotive accessories are held on using this tape.  It is much stronger than anything I’ve seen for sale. 

I got a few more 8mm shank router bits for the collection today.
A 3/4 pattern bit, undersize plywood, and a 1/2 hinge mortise.
I get most of the 8mm from Lee Valley, with the exception of that Bosch set that I got from Amazon DE last year.
I really should make a dedicated space for the 8mm bits. I don't have a whole Systainer full, like I do for the 1/4" and 1/2". I could use the plastic holders that Lee Valley sends with every bit? or make an Origin project out of it? My random bit drawer is a bit of a mess, but it houses the extras like P-C style bushings, inserts for the Amana bits, etc.

The sanding blocks are cheaper than making them out of scrap wood, when one counts the cost of labor (our min. wage is $15 Cdn per hour -- but it's very tough to find someone who is willing to work at that kind of rate, unless they're students).

I got a few more 8mm shank router bits for the collection today.
A 3/4 pattern bit, undersize plywood, and a 1/2 hinge mortise.
I get most of the 8mm from Lee Valley, with the exception of that Bosch set that I got from Amazon DE last year.
I really should make a dedicated space for the 8mm bits. I don't have a whole Systainer full, like I do for the 1/4" and 1/2". I could use the plastic holders that Lee Valley sends with every bit? or make an Origin project out of it? My random bit drawer is a bit of a mess, but it houses the extras like P-C style bushings, inserts for the Amana bits, etc.

I made a super high-tech MDF solution: consistent-size squares, drill a hole. Makes them easy to tile into the drawer. Take whatever you need with you. Enough room for 3-4 related spirals on one plus any bit-specific hex key.

The DD2.5 was finally picked up (along with a box of 4mm dominoes and a few other things). As soon as the polar vortex weather is gone, I'll install the DD2.5, and see how different it's from the existing DD.

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Heads-up: If you're in the market for directional LEDs 8000 Lux. (product - 99W7358), you can't find a better deal than those from Lee Valley Tools. $14.90 Cdn, $10 cheaper each than the ones now sold at Costco. Last time they sold out in no time when I wanted a second one. This time, I took 2 more for myself, while buying 4 for my neighbor.  What makes them special apart from the price? They survived the below -25C temperatures during the past December. Two similar ones from Amazon lasted less than two years.

Are you adding to a ct?

Drilling acrylic and special bit set --------------------> https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/drilling-acrylic-special-bit-set/

Seth