Welcome to the addiction! 

Let me give you a LN protip.  They with no notice will drop random tools that they haven't made for years to https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4225/toms-toolbox. This AM they dropped a white bronze #2 which must of been available for sale for 30 seconds before someone scooped it up.  It can be fun to monitor just to see what random tool usually with exotic woods and metals they will drop.

I would also suggest their 60 1/2 rabbet block plane. I use that thing constantly in my shop. 

@Cheese I wasn't until now, this is great:



@mattgam for the sake of my bank account I think I'll avoid that link for the time being. 

DynaGlide,
Congrats on your new purchase.  It seems you have it setup about as good as it can be.  I’m finding that is half of the battle, with technique and work holding mostly making up the remainder.  You’ll find that the blade stays sharp for a long, long time.  As I delve deeper into the hand tool rabbit hole (rabbet hole?), I’m beginning to understand why pros have multiple copies of the the same or similar planes with different setups (blade angles, etc.).  When you have them setup just the way you want, it can be frustrating to change to fit the task at hand.

I’ve been on a LN buying spree lately.  I’ve been eyeing the 4 ½ as well.  I recently purchased the 164 (low angle smoother) and have been making friends with it on some scrap ash before I use it on some chairs I’ve been working on.

Quote from: mattgam on December 07, 2022, 03:35 PM

Welcome to the addiction! 

Let me give you a LN protip.  They with no notice will drop random tools that they haven't made for years to https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4225/toms-toolbox. This AM they dropped a white bronze #2 which must of been available for sale for 30 seconds before someone scooped it up.  It can be fun to monitor just to see what random tool usually with exotic woods and metals they will drop.

I would also suggest their 60 1/2 rabbet block plane. I use that thing constantly in my shop. 

mattgam,
Thanks for posting that link.  I wasn’t aware that Tom’s toolbox operated that way.  I added it to the shortcut menu.
I recently acquired the 60 ½ for a specific application, realizing I would use it for general block plane use too.  I did find that my grip tended to fall directly into the openings on the side walls, making it a bit uncomfortable when using for extended periods.  That said, I tend not to use block planes for extended periods.  And I have a Veritas low angle that I acquired back in the day (retail $79).  I’ve been very happy with it and keep a blade in it with an “all purpose” angle of 45-ish, as well as a spare at a lower angle.  With the 60 ½ coming on board, I’ll probably just keep the 45 in the Veritas, and a low angle in the 60 ½ for end grain/cross grain.

It performs well as an all-around block plane.  It can easily face plane stock.  Regarding the Veritas.  I really don't use the set screws.  I did at first, but I don't have issues setting the blade parallel without them.  And they were more of a hinderance when removing or reinstalling the blade after I became accustomed to setting it manually.  The same for the Norris-style adjuster.  I typically adjust the blade laterally with my hands or a hammer tap.

There is little to choose between the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen models.  The Veritas does seem to fit my hand a bit better (just a smidge), but I may be biased after nearly 20 years of use.  And it is a bit wider, making it a comfortable shooter.

The one aspect where I believe the Lie-Nielsen block plane (standard, not rabbet) shines over the Veritas is the mouth adjustment mechanism.  The  adjustment of the cam lever is much easier for me to use than the knob (I use it on my other Lie-Nielsen planes). You can set it for a slight amount of friction and easily fine adjust the mouth to an almost microscopic opening (when putting it on bright background, busting out the bifocals, the runner's headlamp and the hand-held magnifier  ), which I find can be the critical in certain operations, sometimes making the difference between tear out and none.  The knob on my Veritas seems a bit crude by comparison, and I struggle with setting a fine mouth opening. It's seems either fully on or off and is more difficult for me to fine adjust (I don't care to admit how many times I backed it into the blade).

If I were only going to own a single block plane, it would be the 60 1/2 standard plane for the adjustable mouth which the rabbet plane lacks.

Good luck in whatever you choose.  You really can't go wrong with any of the models discussed in this thread.

As I delve deeper into the hand tool rabbit hole (rabbet hole?), I’m beginning to understand why pros have multiple copies of the the same or similar planes with different setups (blade angles, etc.).  When you have them setup just the way you want, it can be frustrating to change to fit the task at hand.

That is exactly why I have so many routers. It's a simple grab and go with whatever bit I need at the time.

Great to see you're well on your way to become a hand tool addict/adept. 

Be aware though that it can quite easily become just as expensive as that fearsome green Kool-Aid you are already familiar with... 

I won’t promote a particular process or system for a specific person.  Whatever works for you in your application is the best. But I do want to give a shout out to Lee Valley for the 3M sharpening films/lapping plate and the MK II system.  I used to use waterstones.  However, my shop is in a detached garage with no water, so I found using waterstones to be inconvenient for me and often put it off, realizing that it is silly to pay for a premium tool, take the time to set it up and then use it somewhat dull.  I’m also sloppy by nature and used to make a mess of the workbench/floor/myself when sharpening and was never comfortable slopping water around all the iron tools or on the workbench.  I find that the sharpening films cut quicker than waterstones and produce a comparable finish.  Plus, I actually sharpen my tools when needed.

After initial sharpening, it usually only takes a few strokes on the 4000 and 8000 grits, followed by knocking off the burr on the back (about equal to the time it takes to set up the jig – literally just minutes).   I put films on a few lapping plates and keep the films/plates/jig all in one plastic container that I can just pull off the shelf, set up, sharpen and put away in minutes.

I really like the MK II system.  It is so repeatable and consistent, if you keep track of the angles including the micro bevel knob setting (I write them on the veritas plane blade cases, I’ll forget otherwise).  Reset the jig at the previous setting and you’re golden and back to work with no clean up.

I just sharpened a new spokeshave blade last night (free hand).  The entire process took less than 5 minutes.  Most of that time was flattening the back (about 30-40 swipes on each film 100µ – 1µ). 
New blade:



100µ (course) just to get consistent scratches on along the very edge of the back (there’s a bit of a hollow in the center, but it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t reach the cutting edge.  I find that most of the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen blades have that hollow in the center of the back):  The vertical lines in the photos are just oil streaks and fuzz.


30 µ (400x):


9 µ (1200):


3 µ (4000):


1 µ (8000):


I follow up with the bevel freehand (I ordered the small blade holder for the MK II, but it hasn’t arrived yet and I’m impatient.)  The Veritas is supplied with 5° micro bevel.  I painted the micro bevel with a marker for verification and simply rocked the tool from the primary to micro bevel and took 3-4 strokes backwards on the 9µ - 1µ (I only pull backwards when using the jig as well.  I tend to tear the paper when pushing forwards).  Finishing with the ruler trick on the back with the 1µ.  And, surpisingly, didn't cut myself when shaving my arm.

With BD bench planes, learn to set a closed up chipbreaker for maximum performance.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Snip.. But I do want to give a shout out to Lee Valley for the 3M sharpening films/lapping plate and the MK II system.  I used to use waterstones.  However, my shop is in a detached garage with no water, so I found using waterstones to be inconvenient for me and often put it off, realizing that it is silly to pay for a premium tool, take the time to set it up and then use it somewhat dull.

My shop is too cold in the winter for water stones (frozen stones mean broken stones!), and I only use them (occasionally) in the summer or inside the house.

But for speed and durability, my go-to sharpening media are lapping films: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/sheets-and-belts/68943-diamond-lapping-film

For water, I keep one of these discarded laundry detergent containers filled with water in the shop:

This is fun. I may have gotten carried away planing this poor board.

Matt

Was that poor board 6 inches thick when you began planing?

Mark Spagnolo (Woodwhisperer) did the same thing in his last video with his new planer. He pretty much eliminated a piece of walnut IIRC?
I have yet to really embrace hand tools. That is likely going to be more of a retirement exercise. I have a couple, even a long jointer style Stanley, but it just sits on the cleat-wall of the tiny metal shop in my backroom. That's where my wood lathe and ShopSmith are located too. It's a mess, but that's future-me's problem.

The darn thing multiplied. I found this one a state away a fair bit under current retail. It's from 2006 but looks barely used.

I don't have a problem. Well, maybe I do.

Matt

Yes it is

Because everyone likes eye candy. LNs #4 1/2 Anniversary (#240/500), and a #3 with Rosewood handle and knob (these are #4 size to fit my larger hand) …





Regards from Perth

Derek

@derekcohen Those are two planes I would love to own. Unfortunately they are made of unobtanium. The 4 1/2 anniversary just went for $2000 (maybe more, didn't follow the auction) on eBay. The #3 bronze also commands a near $1000 price tag.

Matt

@derekcohen Those are two planes I would love to own. Unfortunately they are made of unobtanium. The 4 1/2 anniversary just went for $2000 (maybe more, didn't follow the auction) on eBay. The #3 bronze also commands a near $1000 price tag.

Matt

Interesting Matt. I know that Covid and disrupted manufacturing had led to an increase in the prices in the used market (not by the manufacturers), but was unaware of the current asking prices. It does not affect me - I just use them.

Regards from Perth

Derek