Author Topic: Advice Sought: to sand an small area on a painted door without damaging paint...  (Read 4828 times)

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Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
Hello. I need advice on how to sand an isolated area on a painted door. I don't want to damage the paint on the rest of the door. I need to sand down the to the wood so I can glue a coat hook. Please let me know the best way to do this. I imagine there is probably some kind of tape that would work best for this job?

The area i want to sand is about 3/4" by 10".

Thanks!
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

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Offline Bert Vanderveen

  • Posts: 574
Use a Fein MM. Or a Dremel with the appropriate attachment.
Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

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Offline josephgewing

  • Posts: 116
Use painter's tape to shield the area you don't want to sand.
Joe Ewing

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3860
Use painter's tape to shield the area you don't want to sand.

Painter's tape will disappear in a heartbeat if the abrasive hits it.  I've found that using painter's tape with an overlay of aluminum duct tape works far better.  The duct tape is far more resistant to the abrasive, yet the adhesive of the painter's tape releases far easier than the adhesive of the duct tape when it's time to remove the tape. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
Use painter's tape to shield the area you don't want to sand.

Painter's tape will disappear in a heartbeat if the abrasive hits it.  I've found that using painter's tape with an overlay of aluminum duct tape works far better.  The duct tape is far more resistant to the abrasive, yet the adhesive of the painter's tape releases far easier than the adhesive of the duct tape when it's time to remove the tape.


Thank you all for the replies. I think this idea with the aluminum duct tape over masking tape sounds right. I am not sure they sell this kind of duct tape in greece but I am going to look for it. If I can't find it, I might try regular duct tape on a test first.
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6796
ote author=josephgewing

Thank you all for the replies. I think this idea with the aluminum duct tape over masking tape sounds right. I am not sure they sell this kind of duct tape in greece but I am going to look for it. If I can't find it, I might try regular duct tape on a test first.

The aluminum duct tape that Willy refers to is used for HVAC equipment, furnaces, duct work and air conditioning units. Search out a store that supplies the HVAC industry (or your local HVAC installer) and they will have the tape.
 
Regular duct tape is just a heavy cloth based tape with an aggressive acrylic adhesive. If you decide to use the regular duct tape, still put down the painters tape first with the duct tape over that.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
I would use a screw coat hanger ;)

One could use a chistle and use the block of the new
Hanger to determine where to bang out the mortise ?
It only needs to be the depth of the paint, so it would be a shallow mortise.

Offline mwildt

  • Posts: 425
For at coat hook I'd use one of those 3M products (commander) where they can be taken off later with no damage.

http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Catalog/~/Command-Clothes-Hanger?N=5924736+3293197545+3294529207&rt=rud


Offline Alex

  • Posts: 6265
Why sand to bare wood? You can glue the hanger on paint too. Or use a screw.

Offline rizzoa13

  • Posts: 587
Id go with a chisel like Holmz said. Mark it off and then take a utility knife and scour the marks all the way around so when you chisel the paint off you won't take any extra. Flip the chisel over and put downward pressure on the tip of the chisel with one hand and lightly push the chisel across the surface until your peeling the paint off.

Offline jmarkflesher

  • Posts: 248
  • Scoot
I would use a  bunch of Euro's. They aren't worth much.   GRIN GRIN     MARK
DEC 21st, 2012 TIC TIC TIC   WAS A DUD

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
ote author=josephgewing

Thank you all for the replies. I think this idea with the aluminum duct tape over masking tape sounds right. I am not sure they sell this kind of duct tape in greece but I am going to look for it. If I can't find it, I might try regular duct tape on a test first.

Yeah, I know the kind. But greeks don't often use integrated ac systems in central athens where i live. This country is quite disorganized in comparison to the US. thanks though

The aluminum duct tape that Willy refers to is used for HVAC equipment, furnaces, duct work and air conditioning units. Search out a store that supplies the HVAC industry (or your local HVAC installer) and they will have the tape.
 
Regular duct tape is just a heavy cloth based tape with an aggressive acrylic adhesive. If you decide to use the regular duct tape, still put down the painters tape first with the duct tape over that.
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
I would use a screw coat hanger ;)

One could use a chistle and use the block of the new
Hanger to determine where to bang out the mortise ?
It only needs to be the depth of the paint, so it would be a shallow mortise.

I have these vintage cast aluminum hooks that i attached to wood bars. no i have to attach the wood bars. glue seems the best way to go. ....
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
For at coat hook I'd use one of those 3M products (commander) where they can be taken off later with no damage.

http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NACommand/Command/Products/Catalog/~/Command-Clothes-Hanger?N=5924736+3293197545+3294529207&rt=rud

i have some aluminum ones, small, for the kitchen towels. thanks though
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
Why sand to bare wood? You can glue the hanger on paint too. Or use a screw.

i don't want to use a screw for aesthetic reasons. i use titebond wood glue for my wood working. it is a super strong bond. i don't think it would have such a good bond if i attach wood to paint. ???
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
I would use a  bunch of Euro's. They aren't worth much.   GRIN GRIN     MARK

festool owners are so rich they use euros to hang towels, for some reason. :)
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 6265
i use titebond wood glue for my wood working. it is a super strong bond. i don't think it would have such a good bond if i attach wood to paint. ???

If you use a wood glue it wouldn't hold well on paint, that's right. There are many other types of glue though.

But if you want to use wood glue then I'd tape the area off like others have said, and then use a small strip of sandpaper on a square peg with a tip of 1,5 x 1,5 cm and then hand sand it to bare wood with 120. Just like drawing inside the lines. For the finishing touch, scrape it with a sharp scraper or chissel.

There is vinyl fine line tape available for painters, it would not scratch up like normal tape would.  You could also use a square piece of isolation band, it would restrict you to the sanded area because it is raised.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
I would use a screw coat hanger ;)

One could use a chistle and use the block of the new
Hanger to determine where to bang out the mortise ?
It only needs to be the depth of the paint, so it would be a shallow mortise.

I have these vintage cast aluminum hooks that i attached to wood bars. no i have to attach the wood bars. glue seems the best way to go. ....

If you reread my second paragraph, is says to use a chisel and remove only the paint.
You can also use a scraper if you have one, and if the section is narrow making a narrow scraper is easy.
Spending time tuning skis I became familiar with scrapers.

You basically have 2 general choices:
1) Mechanically removing the paint
2) Chemically removing the paint

Sticking to #1 you have the following choices:
A) Sanding
B) Scraping/chiselling/planing
C) Routing/cutting

However your post says "Advice on sanding", which generally limits the advise(s).
Personally I would use a scraper, or a knife or chisel or razor.
A router set so as to just protrude from flush could work.
One of those small hand planes or spoon planes or rabbit/dade planes could work if they are long strips.

If my wife wanted it done, I would use a plane... which would require me to a specific buy one that I do not have.  [embarassed]
But I would probably use a steak knife or a safety razor if I was needing it done quick without a trip out to the shed.

I cannot envision how to sand it without having a bad edge.
The sanding will either run out into the open wood, or it will still have paint under the edge which is right where the 'pealing' would start propagating from.
If you want it bonded well anywhere, then is at the edges rather than the centre.

If you use a scraper then I would suggest a template or a straight edge to keep you guided.

If you have a photo of the piece you are putting on (and the door) then that may help.

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
i use titebond wood glue for my wood working. it is a super strong bond. i don't think it would have such a good bond if i attach wood to paint. ???

If you use a wood glue it wouldn't hold well on paint, that's right. There are many other types of glue though.

But if you want to use wood glue then I'd tape the area off like others have said, and then use a small strip of sandpaper on a square peg with a tip of 1,5 x 1,5 cm and then hand sand it to bare wood with 120. Just like drawing inside the lines. For the finishing touch, scrape it with a sharp scraper or chissel.

There is vinyl fine line tape available for painters, it would not scratch up like normal tape would.  You could also use a square piece of isolation band, it would restrict you to the sanded area because it is raised.

i love tapes. i might get this tape you suggested if i can't get it done with the duct tape. yes, good ideas with the isolation band and the wood sanding peg thingy. i might take that route too.
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276
I would use a screw coat hanger ;)

One could use a chistle and use the block of the new
Hanger to determine where to bang out the mortise ?
It only needs to be the depth of the paint, so it would be a shallow mortise.

I have these vintage cast aluminum hooks that i attached to wood bars. no i have to attach the wood bars. glue seems the best way to go. ....

If you reread my second paragraph, is says to use a chisel and remove only the paint.
You can also use a scraper if you have one, and if the section is narrow making a narrow scraper is easy.
Spending time tuning skis I became familiar with scrapers.

You basically have 2 general choices:
1) Mechanically removing the paint
2) Chemically removing the paint

Sticking to #1 you have the following choices:
A) Sanding
B) Scraping/chiselling/planing
C) Routing/cutting

However your post says "Advice on sanding", which generally limits the advise(s).
Personally I would use a scraper, or a knife or chisel or razor.
A router set so as to just protrude from flush could work.
One of those small hand planes or spoon planes or rabbit/dade planes could work if they are long strips.

If my wife wanted it done, I would use a plane... which would require me to a specific buy one that I do not have.  [embarassed]
But I would probably use a steak knife or a safety razor if I was needing it done quick without a trip out to the shed.

I cannot envision how to sand it without having a bad edge.
The sanding will either run out into the open wood, or it will still have paint under the edge which is right where the 'pealing' would start propagating from.
If you want it bonded well anywhere, then is at the edges rather than the centre.

If you use a scraper then I would suggest a template or a straight edge to keep you guided.

If you have a photo of the piece you are putting on (and the door) then that may help.
my scraping and chiseling skills are not so good. also i don't have a chisel plane that is small enough for this job. plus the area to be altered is high up on a door. i'm going to try to tap off the area so that i can only sand within an isolated space, as needed. hmm, yeah, i have to consider the bleeding or the edge and future possible delamination. thanks for your suggestions.
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
@Alex idea of the block sounds like what you want then.

Get a photo when you are done.

Offline sae

  • Posts: 842

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010

... plus the area to be altered is high up on a door...

Personally I would suggest taking the door off the hinges, or the pins out of the hinges.
(But then I don't like to be sanding on a ladder, or a turned over trash can).

A couple of saw horses can hold the door horizontal so that you could then work like a humanoid.??

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276


this might actually be the best bet, no hassle, no potential for a mistake. just put some tape on the back and stick it on the door. here is a photo of the hooks i am using. i used a matte varnish on the wood.

"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."

Offline MichaelW2014

  • Posts: 276

... plus the area to be altered is high up on a door...

Personally I would suggest taking the door off the hinges, or the pins out of the hinges.
(But then I don't like to be sanding on a ladder, or a turned over trash can).

A couple of saw horses can hold the door horizontal so that you could then work like a humanoid.??

thanks for the suggestion Holmes, i love humanoids. later holmes
"These saws can chew up lumber like a beaver recovering from a hunger strike."