Author Topic: New Band Saw  (Read 2644 times)

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Offline CopperKris

  • Posts: 17
New Band Saw
« on: April 22, 2018, 09:02 AM »
Just bought a Jet 14" band saw for a specific project where I have to resaw a reclaimed beam.  I haven't much experience with band saws, so I was wondering what ideas people have for modifications, outfeed, jigs, ect to get the most out of the saw. 

Also if anyone has experince with glide blocks vs besring guides, should they be touching the blade or should they be spaced off as. Umpers that only contact the blade if it moves?

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Offline rst

  • Posts: 2264
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2018, 10:33 AM »
I put a piece of office paper between my blade and guide when I adjust, just on one side.

Offline Roseland

  • Posts: 618
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2018, 10:34 AM »
Congratulations on your purchase - I also have a Jet 14" and I love it.

I was taught the bearings should be just touching the blade, so that they spin if there is any side load, but not otherwise.

The only accessories I've made are a jig for cutting tapers (like chair legs), and an adapter to offset the fence when I'm cutting thin stock close to the fence, where the upper support would otherwise foul the fence.

Andrew
TS55, MFT/3, OF1400, OF1010, CT26, RS100, ETS125, CXS, MFS400, DF-500, Zobos.

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 871
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2018, 11:21 AM »
Did you get the riser block with it?

Offline CopperKris

  • Posts: 17
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2018, 11:36 AM »
Congratulations on your purchase - I also have a Jet 14" and I love it.

I was taught the bearings should be just touching the blade, so that they spin if there is any side load, but not otherwise.


I don't have lateral bearings...I have the nylon blocks.  I have the bearing only for back support.  Is there a kit to change the blocks to bearings?

I too have heard the same set up as you for the bearings, so they don't spin until the slightest lateral movement in the blade.  But the nylon blocks are clumsy, and it's hard to adjust them...they want to go right back to where the screw previously put pressure on them...I wasn't sure if they were meant to be set up a bit tighter, and then allow for the blade to simply erode them. 

All in all I like the saw a lot...but not impressed with those block guides

Offline CopperKris

  • Posts: 17
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2018, 11:37 AM »
I put a piece of office paper between my blade and guide when I adjust, just on one side.

And on the other side, you just let the nylon block contact the blade?

Offline CopperKris

  • Posts: 17
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2018, 11:40 AM »
Did you get the riser block with it?

No, unfortunately I didn't find out about it until I got home and ordered a few 93.5" blades...I bought the saw because I needed to resaw some 5 3/4" stock.  so I don't really have a need for the riser...Though I do wish I knew about it from the get go, I would have done it had I not already purchased blades...Maybe when I need new blades, I'll buy the block first

Offline leakyroof

  • Posts: 2280
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2018, 01:02 PM »
You can research with Carter to see what your guide block options are if you get fed up with the ones the Saw came with.  They offer lots for Bandsaw upgrades or trick items.
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6544
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2018, 01:09 PM »
The largest difference I made to my Delta was to install a Carter guide upgrade kit. It makes all the difference. I went from stock guides to some worthless cool guides and then finally pulled the pin for the Carter option.


http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-conversion-kits

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 2725
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2018, 04:03 PM »
The ball bearing roller guides are the way to go. I adjust mine so the turn only if there is a little pressure from the blade against them. I also lube them with just a small amount of light gun oil.

Highland Woodworking sells a bandsaw blade they call a Wood Slicer. I really like that blade for resawing.
Birdhunter

Offline Alanbach

  • Posts: 435
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2018, 05:52 PM »
I agree that Carter guides are the way to go. Personally, over the years I have made a number of upgrades to my Jet 14” bandsaw. They include the Carter guides, a Kreg bandsaw fence upgrade, a Carter brand upgraded tension spring and a 6” riser block. I also added the Carter guide for scrolling. Carter also makes an easy to use blade tension release handle but I haven’t felt the need to spend the money on that one. All of these accessories end up costing close to as much as the saw once you put them all together (I might be exaggerating a bit) but they really do elevate the saws performance for high quality woodworking. I also invested in a good quality mobile base. Last thing is that I did add a 4”dust port flange on the lower blade wheel cover to enhance the dust collection capabilities of this saw. Hope this helps!

Offline CopperKris

  • Posts: 17
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2018, 07:29 PM »
Thanks everyone...lot's of great ideas to try. 

Offline Rip Van Winkle

  • Posts: 301
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2018, 08:47 PM »
A word of warning when setting your blade guides tightly spaced on the blade. Some suppliers leave the connecting weld on bandsaw blades not ground very flush. When you put a new blade on, or switch blades out, you should hand spin the bandsaw wheel thru a full circuit of the blade, and check how tight the guide bearings/blocks are where the weld sits. The weld should be able to freely pass between the bearings/blocks, and this should determine how tight you set the guides. If the guides are set too tight, the weld will slam against the guides when the bandsaw is turned on, and the weld will damage the bearings/blocks, or worse, the holders for the bearings/blocks.
Some bandsaw blade guides hold the bearings so the side guide bearings run with their outer edge against the blade, like the way a car tire contacts the road. In this case, a wide blade weld will either get squished by the bearing guides, or the bearing guides will get pushed outwardsby the weld. This is optimal, since it’s less likely to damage the blade guides. I believe most Carter blade guides are like this.
Other bearing blade guides have the side wall of the bearing running next to the blade. In this case, if the blade weld is too wide for how tight you set the blade guide bearings, the blade weld will get pushed forward by the bearings as the weld passes the guides, or it will slam against the bearings if you’re pushing a heavy piece of wood against the blade. This can lead to damage to the bearings, or bearing holders, as well as awkward cuts.
The same problem can occure with guide blocks if set tighter than the weld.
I saw somewhere, maybe ‘Fine Woodworking’, a tip from someone, who used Lignum Vitae for their guide blocks, since it is very oily snd self lubricating. I presume he just cut the tips down occasionally, or sawed new blocks if the old ones got damaged. Grease imprgnated wood might work as well.

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 871
Re: New Band Saw
« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2018, 09:51 PM »
...
Highland Woodworking sells a bandsaw blade they call a Wood Slicer. I really like that blade for resawing.
Ditto - best blade I've used, for the price.  The Laguna resaw king blade is awesome, but pricey.