First time posting, sorry for bumping up an old thread, but I thought it needed a closure.
1. Cut 118" Makita Guide Rail
I actually cut a 55-1/4" piece off to match my 55" Makita track's length. They can be attached to cut sheet material. Remaining piece is slighty longer than Kreg’s 62", and it’s OK.
If you own a Festool 75" Guide Rail, you don't really need to cut it. You can use it as it is if you don't mind the track sticking out from the sides. You'll simply ignore 2-1/4" distance suggestion during installation of the left side hinge, and stick it out long enough to allow wheeled transportation. The 75" rail would stick out quite a bit on the right side, so it's a face and body hazard. Better remove the track to transport the table.
2. Drill New 1/4" Holes to Hinges
This is a cosmetic fix. I don't see anyone here not doing it though. This helps flush fit the side flanges to the edge of the track so they don't stick out. The flanges are not mirrored during installation, they fold towards the same direction, so drill the holes exactly on the same location on both. 1/4" bit size centered 2.250" x 0.300" from the edges for Makita track. Festool owners need to do their own simple math.
3. Extend Notches for Additional Side Plate Adjustment
This allows Makita saw to cut exactly on the same location as the Kreg saw. There are two slots for the Kreg bench dogs between you and the track, they are used to square the track quickly for repeatable re-installation should you remove it for whatever reason.
That's it!
If you don't own a plunge saw, seriously consider the Kreg saw for the ACS table. It was out of stock nationwide for weeks, so I bought the Makita saw. Kreg saw lacks the motor technology and the quality in comparison, but it's feature packed, more so than the Makita XPS01Z. It's passive dust collection is shamelessly better than my track saw and CT MIDI combined.