Author Topic: JESSEM Table Saw Miter Gauge (Read 25560 times)

ChuckM · « **Reply #60 on:** June 11, 2019, 11:08 PM »

In the sawblade manufacture thread, a sawblade video is shared. I noticed that the sacrificial fence on the mitre gauge was installed on the end of the gauge, not on the face. I will study it further to see if it is a better way of attaching a wooden fence for the mite-r ii when received.

gary_va · « **Reply #61 on:** June 12, 2019, 08:09 PM »

Quote from: ChuckM on June 11, 2019, 11:08 PM

...the sacrificial fence on the mitre gauge was installed on the end of the gauge...

This intrigued me so I took a look. Turns out the wood end-piece is not sunk into the blade. It's odd shape suggests it served some other purpose and they just leave it installed.

Great video nonetheless, 'How It's Made' grabs like 315 hide glue and they're extremely addictive!

FYI - in Youtube videos, "spacebar" and/or "K" on your keyboard will Pause and "<" and ">" (don't press shift) step forward and backward frame by frame...very handy for analysis and screen captures.

ChuckM · « **Reply #62 on:** June 12, 2019, 08:47 PM »

Thanks for the detective work, Gary.

I have yet to receive my Mite-R, and have no clue if such idea is good or even possible. If I have had any unusual findings, I will post them here.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #63 on:** June 12, 2019, 09:14 PM »

The Jessem Miter Gauge is built to receive a front sub fence. If I'm not wrong the t-bolts are part of the package. It is doable to put a end zero clearance but like Gary highlite with his picture there was a gap. Perhaps it's to prevent the sawstop safety to trigger?

gary_va · « **Reply #64 on:** June 12, 2019, 09:40 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on June 12, 2019, 09:14 PM

...If I'm not wrong the t-bolts are part of the package...

They provide two 1/4–20 flat head screws (#3 Phillips) and two square nuts.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #65 on:** June 13, 2019, 09:44 PM »

Quote from: gary_va on June 12, 2019, 09:40 PM

Quote from: Mario Turcot on June 12, 2019, 09:14 PM
...If I'm not wrong the t-bolts are part of the package...

They provide two 1/4–20 flat head screws (#3 Phillips) and two square nuts.

Thanks for confirming. I had a look at the manual and sacrificial fence part. The fence need to be 2" 1/2 high and between 22"-25" long. Do you thin it would be doable to extend that fence over the extension? I mean if you have a 3/4" fence, the extension is no more in-line with the fence. To rectify, one could simply add a small ~2" long mini fence to the extension. You think it's possible?

gary_va · « **Reply #66 on:** June 14, 2019, 12:13 AM »

Quote

...one could simply add a small ~2" long mini fence to the extension.

Yes, one could engineer a gap-filler to align the face of the extension bar with the face of the 3/4" sacrif. wood.

Two design drivers are present:

1. The extension's square-nut channel is on the back side, not the front like the main fence
2. The gap is larger than 3/4" by the thickness of the extrusion plus a bit more; something close to an additional 3/32"

A three-piece design similar to the flip-stop seems viable. Even simpler would be cutting an extension-bar sized dado in a large block sized so you could slide the gap-filler over the extension bar wherever you wish.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #67 on:** June 14, 2019, 04:57 PM »

Thank you Gary

Finally

jellyroll · « **Reply #68 on:** June 22, 2019, 09:33 AM »

I continue to be pleased with their customer support. The miter gage arrived on schedule, assembly was easy, and I’m very please with both the design and the execution. They provide 4 small hex wrenches for assembly and if future adjustments are needed. There’s a tiny 3/32” hex wrench extender which is not necessary, but aids in tightening and loosening 2 set screws. They sent a part that appeared to be almost identical to the extension but actually must be a part from something else they manufacture. I called them, they answered on the first ring, sincerely apologized, and two days later the correct hex extension arrive via UPS. The correct part is the smaller diameter part in the photo.

ChuckM · « **Reply #69 on:** July 08, 2019, 04:33 PM »

Opened the box today, and had the same wrong allen key extension in the package. Called customer service, and a replacement extension should be sent out by them tomorrow.

ben_r_ · « **Reply #70 on:** July 22, 2019, 04:42 PM »

Looks like it's cheaper on Amazon: LINK

ChuckM · « **Reply #71 on:** August 06, 2019, 12:45 PM »

Finally installed my Jessem gauge. Initial test cuts confirmed it is a robust gauge. Some observations:

1. They included the wrong part as someone reported earlier. It took two attempts before they got it right (they shipped the same incorrect part in the first try). But the customer service responses were quick.

2. To get rid of the little play on the stop, adjust the hinge nut slightly.

3. The extension stop should be longer to cater for a 3/4" fence. When I replace the fence, I will use 1/2" material instead of the 3/4" stock recommended in the manual.

4. Some sections of the manual can be improved for clarity.

The real test is in the actual use of the tool for months before a firm opinion on it can be made.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #72 on:** August 06, 2019, 12:52 PM »

I agree 18mm sub fence make it a bit too bulky. I haven't use the extension stop yet, so I didn't notice how far it was sticking out. Thanks for the pictures

Max Fracas · « **Reply #73 on:** October 30, 2019, 05:18 PM »

@Mario Turcot @ChuckM

I’ve been looking at this miter gauge lately and wondered if you have any additional thoughts on it after a few months of use.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #74 on:** October 30, 2019, 05:21 PM »

Quote from: Max Fracas on October 30, 2019, 05:18 PM

I’ve been looking at this miter gauge lately and wondered if you have any additional thoughts on it after a few months of use.

The miter gauge is rock solid & I love it. I had the incra one that is now dedicated to the band saw.

Like Chuck mentionned, the only thing about the Jessem mitre gauge is the stop at the end of the extension. When you use 18mm (3/4") material for the sacreificial fence the stop protrude like 1/4". Not really an issue but having it a bit longer would have been better IMO.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #75 on:** November 13, 2019, 01:56 AM »

@ChuckM & others... I thought you might be interested into that little accessory.

https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/551479916872537430/

It let you pull back the miter gauge off the table saw to crosscut larger boards that normally won't fit.

ChuckM · « **Reply #76 on:** November 13, 2019, 11:34 AM »

Thanks, Mario. I've seen a couple of other ideas to increase the crosscut capacity such as this: https://tinyurl.com/yz7lvgvp

Wood magazine has published another tip using regular F-clamps, but I couldn't find it.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #77 on:** November 13, 2019, 01:10 PM »

Thanks, I like it a lot

simonh · « **Reply #78 on:** December 02, 2019, 07:21 AM »

I got mine installed in my Festool CMS-VL / Dewalt DW745 table saw combo. Slides nice in the slot and I used a Festool clamp from the MFT rail to hold it to the sliding table so it all moves as one. It's a major upgrade on using the Festool angle guide on the sliding table. The Festool angle guide has so much play in the detents that it was hard to just put it on and just be square. As the gauge runs in the mitre slot it's perfectly repeatable and having the table slide with the gauge gives extra support for bigger pieces.

Maybe the only negative is that it runs so close to the blade that I'm not sure if the blade guard will fit! Maybe I can sneak it over enough and re-calibrate the tape. I think the instructions said it should be 1/32" away from the blade.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #79 on:** December 02, 2019, 12:25 PM »

@simonh

Wel done

You should be able to move the fence untill revealing the black part.

Cincinnati · « **Reply #80 on:** January 02, 2020, 02:04 AM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on May 15, 2019, 02:16 PM

...
I have the Incra® Miter 1000SE Gauge and hate it. Flip stop is poorly made and the extension arm is flimsy & require a tool to move it.

I hope it’s ok to post to such an old thread.

I generally like Incra products. I find them innovative designs that are well-made. Although I have used adjustment tools with other equipment / accessories, I often have to search for where I put the hex head driver. I replaced several of the hex socket bolts with ratcheting levers. I would prefer 1/4 turn cam lock fasteners, but haven’t been able to locate them. Here’s a link to the photograph of what I did with Incra options that is not well publicized:

https://www.incra.com/jig_fixture-build-it_system-ratchet_knobs.html#prettyPhoto%5Bpp_index%5D/2/

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #81 on:** January 02, 2020, 02:13 AM »

@Cincinnati I agree with you, they are innovative and well made. Sometimes with poor material, unfortunately. Same for Kreg tools, it make sense to use plastic parts, Kreg like to abuse IMO.

There is several parts of the Incra 1000SE I dislike. This make it an unenjoyable tool to use, for me anyways.

I have the Incra IBox and love it

The Incra 1000SE is now setup for the bandsaw and it's

because I don't need the extension capability on that tool.

Steve1 · « **Reply #82 on:** January 02, 2020, 09:14 AM »

Quote from: ChuckM on November 13, 2019, 11:34 AM

Thanks, Mario. I've seen a couple of other ideas to increase the crosscut capacity such as this: https://tinyurl.com/yz7lvgvp

That extension a good idea.

First words on that link are "Doesn’t it always just seem like when you go to cross cut a wide panel that your tablesaw is just an inch or two too short to make the job safe?"

Absolutely true.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #83 on:** January 02, 2020, 12:43 PM »

@Steve1

Here my version #1 Light and easy to store. Two ways to lock it in place.

Sorry for the bad focus photo, hands was frozen and I start to shake like a little girl

The jig give me a 10" increase depth.

The purpose of the holes is to let me see through where the TS switch is. A lot of tear out due to a bad sequence build embarassed]

Notch to accomodate the miter gauge safety. That way I can put on or remove the miter gauge even when the jig is already installed.

The secret machanism that hold the jig in place. A T-nut sprung from inside, to make the connection with the TS fence bar.

I plan to use it a few months and see if a larger jig would help. I thought of giving it an extra 5-6" on the left side, up to the sliding table. This would give me full support, see picture 1 for the gap. The miter gauge fence happen to be a half inch shy of the sliding table, with that extra 5 or 6" the miter gauge end would be leveled with the table.

ChuckM · « **Reply #84 on:** January 02, 2020, 01:11 PM »

Mario,

That's an interesting take on the clamping system using a knob instead of a clamp on each side as given in the original tip.

In your first photo, the mitre gauge bar is only an inch or so into the slot, does that give enough registration to ensure the mitre fence is square to the blade?

Based on your prototype, what's now the total capacity from the mitre fence to the blade?

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #85 on:** January 02, 2020, 01:28 PM »

See this is something I totally ignored

There is no play, just a tiny resistance compare to the TS slot. Accuracy has not been tested yet. I will put my brain to the task later today

Total capacity is ~21.5" of course it's directly depending of how high the blade is. 21.5" was measured for a 15mm thickness

simonh · « **Reply #86 on:** January 28, 2020, 07:54 AM »

Quote from: gary_va on June 12, 2019, 08:09 PM

Quote from: ChuckM on June 11, 2019, 11:08 PM
...the sacrificial fence on the mitre gauge was installed on the end of the gauge...

This intrigued me so I took a look. Turns out the wood end-piece is not sunk into the blade. It's odd shape suggests it served some other purpose and they just leave it installed.

(Attachment Link)

Great video nonetheless, 'How It's Made' grabs like 315 hide glue and they're extremely addictive!

FYI - in Youtube videos, "spacebar" and/or "K" on your keyboard will Pause and "<" and ">" (don't press shift) step forward and backward frame by frame...very handy for analysis and screen captures.

If for no other reason that I was intrigued and it didn't take long to model and CNC a few push fit pieces on the back of a block of Delrin I had around.

ChuckM · « **Reply #87 on:** January 28, 2020, 12:24 PM »

Thanks for sharing. That seems to be a simpler way than adding a sacrificial fence to the gauge. Once my fence gets chewed up, I will adopt your method. Do you have a diagram you can share of the dimension of the block so we can cut ours out of wood (on the router table or table saw)?

simonh · « **Reply #88 on:** January 28, 2020, 03:32 PM »

Here's a sketch and the dimensions. I got the dimensions directly from the Jessem 3d PDF model. I think it has been designed in imperial as the block size translates perfectly into inches and things like the wall thickness of the profile is 0.1". Anyway, all my numbers on the diagram are metric. The main thing seems to be to make it a fairly tight fit. I was going to add a small grub screw in the back that would hold it into the end of the fence but I'll see how it goes after a bit more use.

ChuckM · « **Reply #89 on:** January 28, 2020, 04:13 PM »

Many thanks!

Interesting that Jessem does not create a revenue stream out of it by making and selling the zero-clearance blocks as consumables.