Are you going with 20mm holes on your workbench? If so, the make a mounting plate for the LS positioner to mount using the 20mm holes. I don’t know the part number off hand but, I know that would be one option you can go with. I have an Incra LS router table and love the thing. Post up your finished work table when your done.

Here is the link to the mounting plate https://precisiondogs.us/products/precision-plate

The key advantage of the Incra fence systems is the dead nuts repeatability of the stops at 1/32" or 1mm increments.  Whatever method you develop for a quick removal/install needs to be precise and repeatable enough to positively locate the base or you'll need to rezero it every time you swap it out.

Often, simplest is best. In my prior post I mentioned the possibility of mounting the LS Base to a bench hook; a piece of MDF or plywood with a cleat on the underside. The cleat then indexes off an edge of your bench top. You could also either mount a stop block along that edge of your bench top, or, if this bench hook can overhang a corner, just mount a second cleat for that edge to locate your LS in a repeatable position. If your bench top will allow, you can then simply clamp the bench-hook-Incra-LS to the bench top and eliminate the need to embed T-track on your bench.

The housing of the LS positioner has t-track channels in the bottom.  On the Incra router table, through holes are drilled, and 1/4 - 20 bolts are dropped down through the top and captured with nuts.  You can counterbore the thu holes so that when you remove the LS positioner, the mounting bolt heads recess below the surface of the table.

I replaced the nuts under the table with cam nuts so I could easily remove the positioner without a wrench.

Unless you don’t want the bolts in the table top, The bench dog mounting plate is not needed. IMHO.

Simon, you make an excellent point in that the plate permits you to remove the lead screw and put it back while maintaining calibration, including squareness. Plus you can use a shorter lead screw and just move it by 96mm increments - you essentially have stops built-in at every set of holes. 

That would be a sweet set-up.

Your understanding is correct, however, if your workflow is interrupted and you need the table for cutting (say, if you ruined a part), you can switch to cutting with the incra removed, and resume your routing with it reinstalled, no set up necessary. 

If you have 1 or 2 common bits you work with constantly, you can dedicate one of the scales to that bit.  1/4” and 1/2” plywood bits might be an example if you build a lot of cabinets or rabbeted drawers.

If you’re doing an operating that requires two bits (sliding dovetail or T slot), you can hog out your groove, remove the fence if it’s in the way, swap to your dovetail or T slot bit, put the fence back and just adjust the height.  But usually you have enough room to slide the fence back without needing to remove the whole fence.

It’s just an added convenience that can save some time and give you more consistent results.

As for the positioner being square to the table.  If you use the miter slot on the table or a sliding table on the CMS, you’ll need it square.  With the incra, you set it up square once, and you’re done.  No need to re-square after the fence goes off and on again. Again, a time saving convenience.

Thanks @RKA I appreciate the reply. I’m now thinking of a way to do this without a PGS. I’ll likely drill four 20mm holes through a small piece of MDF that will hold the positioner, then into my table saw extension table and place four dogs through the holes.

Must admit, I'm considering doing something like that with my multifunction slab, its got to be very portable and I'm not convinced I always want brackets and whatnot above the height of the tabletop so I was thinking of just registering it in place with benchdogs.
There's nowhere close where I can take a really good look at the LS positioner but on the face of it, I can't see why not.