Author Topic: Hammer N4400 on the way!  (Read 4148 times)

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Offline egmiii

  • Posts: 185
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #30 on: March 01, 2020, 10:13 AM »
I’m thinking it’s either the tension or the fence isn’t parallel with the blade, but I’m no expert.  Here is a video Marc put together with Alex Snodgrass that should walk you through a quick and easy way to get everything set up.

https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/best-way-set-bandsaw/

This method likely will not work for the N4400. It was designed for saws with crowned wheels. I believe the N4400 has flat wheels.

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Offline RKA

  • Posts: 1886
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #31 on: March 01, 2020, 11:02 AM »
The blade tracking part is not relevant for that reason, but the rest is useful.

I pulled up Sam Blasco’s recommendations in my email and he was pretty consistent with respect to tension.  He sets at 1/8” to 1/4” deflection 6” down from the upper wheel.  Then he turn is on with the guides set back and listens to the saw.  Any fluttering sounds means it needs more tension. 

But don’t overlook the fence adjustments.  And the other poster is right, set up a feather board to keep pressure against the fence consistent.  That should eliminate you as the source of the issue.
-Raj

Offline ScotF

  • Posts: 2742
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #32 on: March 01, 2020, 11:18 AM »
Matt - are the rips consistent in width? It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the little ripples are likely caused by the alternating set of the teeth. You need to use a blade without set to get smoother rips. You will likely not achieve a glue-ready rip with a bandsaw, though. Close, but it will not be perfect. I pass over the jointer will likely be needed regardless of blade.

Nice saw, BTW!

Offline mattbyington

  • Posts: 458
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #33 on: March 02, 2020, 12:40 PM »
@RustE yes I have tried that!

@ScotF thanks! I ordered a Laguna ProForce last night..we'll see how that goes.

Went with 10 TPI instead of 3 or 4. Hoping that helps.

Also, yes, the wheels are flat. I did talk with Alex Snodgrass this weekend via Facebook messenger and he confirmed that most of the methods he discusses don't apply to bandsaw. at least with regard to blade tracking.

Matt

Online derekcohen

  • Posts: 412
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #34 on: March 02, 2020, 06:54 PM »
Matt, it is difficult to judge from the small photo and small edge you posted, but the resaw looks reasonable. Technique comes into this as well - if you push the work piece too fast, the gullets fill up with sawdust faster, and then they push it away from the fence and cause waviness. Try pushing slower, and tension a little higher.

I would not purchase a 10 tpi blade. Return it for 3 tpi. The 1" CT resaw blade is 1.3 tpi. More teeth with simply load up faster. With 10 tpi, you have to push the blade excruciatingly slowly.

Matt, with respect, you have minimal time on a bandsaw. Learn how to use one before rushing off to buy new blades. Read my earlier comments about resaw fences. There is as much technique in all this as equipment.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline mattbyington

  • Posts: 458
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #35 on: March 02, 2020, 07:33 PM »
@derekcohen got it! thank you sir. I really appreciate your time responding. I will spend more time practicing.

Appreciate all of your insight.

Matt

Offline HowardH

  • Posts: 1215
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #36 on: March 06, 2020, 03:42 PM »
I was almost ready to pull the trigger on the N4400 but decided not to after a visit to the local Felder warehouse.  Austrians must be short people because the table height was 4" below the Powermatic and Laguna.  I'm almost 6'3" so it was a deal killer for me.  I got the PM1500 instead and it's the bees knees for me. 
Howard H
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Offline ben_r_

  • Posts: 1268
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #37 on: March 07, 2020, 12:47 AM »
I was almost ready to pull the trigger on the N4400 but decided not to after a visit to the local Felder warehouse.  Austrians must be short people because the table height was 4" below the Powermatic and Laguna.  I'm almost 6'3" so it was a deal killer for me.  I got the PM1500 instead and it's the bees knees for me. 
Yea I thought it was very short too! So I built a mobile base that raised it up a lot. Been great for me since.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7022
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #38 on: March 07, 2020, 10:19 AM »
It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the little ripples are likely caused by the alternating set of the teeth. You need to use a blade without set to get smoother rips.

As ScotF noted, a blade with less set will give you a smoother cut surface. Consider the Wood Slicer® Resaw Bandsaw Blades from Highland Woodworking. They are available in 1/2" & 3/4" widths. The blade band thickness is .022" and it leaves a kerf that's .032". So the tooth set is only .005" per side. No cutting curves with these guys, resawing only.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer34resawbandsawblades105to166.aspx

Also stick with a 3-4 tooth blade because as Derek said you need the tooth spacing (gullet) to be large so it can remove the material efficiently from the cut.  Just like a table saw, you're ripping the material so the tooth count needs to be low.

I've resawn a bunch of aromatic cedar which has a Janka hardness equivalent to maple or cherry. This was all done on a Delta 14" bandsaw which isn't exactly a power house.  [smile]

BTW...love your saw...I'm jealous.  [big grin]






Offline PeppaPig

  • Posts: 19
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #39 on: March 07, 2020, 10:24 PM »
Lenox Tension Meter.  Buy once, cry once.  These come up on eBay every now and then.  I picked one up for $165 in excellent condition a couple of years ago - well worth the money.  The blade was severely under tensioned using the built in gauge on my 18" Laguna  (by the way, the poor customer server complaints about Laguna are from years ago.  When I bought my LT18 3000 in 2014, there was a slight issue with the throat plate.  They immediately sent me a knew one and threw in a free blade for my troubles)




The wood slicer from Highland woodworking is a great, fairly inexpensive blade, but I believe the current king of the hill is the Laguna Resaw King.  Certainly not cheap in the $250 price range, but they can be re-sharpened up to 5 times

https://thisiswoodworking.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=RK125145

Offline kcufstoidi

  • Posts: 877
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #40 on: March 08, 2020, 07:40 AM »
You don't have to cry with this method which has been around for years and is based on what the tension gauge reads.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?22144-bandsaw-tension-gauge-crazy-idea&p=198533#post198533

Offline PeppaPig

  • Posts: 19
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #41 on: March 08, 2020, 07:23 PM »
So spend 2 to 3 times more on 'premium' type machine and then cheap out on the tools used to set it up correctly?   OK, whatever floats your boat....

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4634
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #42 on: March 08, 2020, 10:14 PM »
Following on Derek’s blade advice, consider the rule of thumb for matching hacksaw blades to the work. That is, tooth pitch should be 1/3 of the thickness of the stock being cut so that there are always at least 2 teeth in the kerf so the blade doesn’t snag. That 10tpi blade would be good for cutting stuff 3/8ths of an inch thick.

Also consider that a tooth is going to be dragging swarf into it’s gullet the full length of the kerf so for re-sawing you want big gullets. As said above, for smooth cut surfaces you also want less set, but (I’m guessing) that also requires the wood to be quite dry.

Offline mattbyington

  • Posts: 458
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #43 on: March 08, 2020, 11:33 PM »
@Cheese wow thanks so much for all the information! I will try it out. I think the blade set really was what was killing me!

Really appreciate you taking the time write that up. That cedar looks BEAUTIFUL and exactly what I want cut-quality-wise!! I'll have to keep trying. I'm still totally new at it.

@PeppaPig just picked one of those up this week from Grizzly! Already noticed the scale on the N4400 wasn't really accurate, as I hypothesized! Great item to have around but yes pricey.

@Michael Kellough thanks! Really appreciate the advice!

By the way. Is anyone interested in a brand-new 1" Woodmaster CT? I think it's a little too big for my machine as you guys have noted here, so, moving down to 3/4" blades... they aren't cheap. I wouldn't give it away for free but if anyone in Bay Area, CA wants it, let me know and we can chat.

Matt

Offline Bert Vanderveen

  • Posts: 616
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #44 on: March 09, 2020, 07:44 AM »
What the max size blade for the N4400 is, is a bit obscure. Some documentation says 20 mm (slightly over 3/4), but I have also seen 25 mm (an inch). Strange thing is that the tensioning guide inside the machine goes to 35 mm ( 1 3/8) — that may be some stupid cost saving issue (using the same decal for various models), but does not clarify things.


Anyway, an inch blade should work. I have one on my N4400 and it’s the one I mainly use. (Hammer branded, but produced by ? ? ? )
Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

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Offline kcufstoidi

  • Posts: 877
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #45 on: March 09, 2020, 07:45 AM »
So spend 2 to 3 times more on 'premium' type machine and then cheap out on the tools used to set it up correctly?   OK, whatever floats your boat....

Boy you have no idea what your talking about, I will just leave it like that. There is nothing magically about about setting tension and I've done more precision setups then you could ever imagine. Like everything waste your money the way you wish. By the way a Hammer N4400 isn't a premium machine its a mid range to most and entry level for the Felder line.

Online derekcohen

  • Posts: 412
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Hammer N4400 on the way!
« Reply #46 on: March 09, 2020, 10:16 AM »
I doubt that scales on all bandsaws are unlikely to be accurate. I accept the one on my N4400 is just a guideline.

I also have never used an aftermarket scale. I simply tension using the 1" mark as a rough estimate, and then go a little more until there is minimal blade deflection. I am on my second 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT. This one tensions more easily, as if the blade has more spring in it. The previous one struggled to get to the 1" mark. It is possible - a more likely explanation - that the new blade is slightly longer than the old one? In any event, the new one cuts more smoothly.

By the way, I re-sharpened the previous 1" CT about 5 times before it eventually gave up the ghost (diamond disk on a Dremel).

The Hammer N4400 is a good bandsaw, but I agree that it is an entry level for the Felder make. It has good power, but there are areas for improvement, which one pays for. I am happy with my three Hammer machines, having had good service from them and the agent, who is nearby. That was a big reason for going with Hammer.

With regard size of blade, my N4400 is about 9 or 10 years old now. Earlier models went to 3/4" (as the recommendation). I believe mine can go to 1 1/4".

Regards from Perth

Derek