Looks great Dan!  I'm sure you'll enjoy that.

I have that stand and have reversed the foot pedal (remove keeper and bolt, reverse pedal and reinstall) and mounted the unit inboard.  This puts the pedal where you won't trip over it and is easier to reach than mounting the unit inboard without reversing the pedal.  It doesn't operate as well with the reduced leverage, but I find this to be a good compromise.

Corwin

Dan,
Nice pictures and a good overview.  Like you, I have the planer with the infeed/outfeed tables, mobile stand, and dust shroud.

This planer is a great tool, and has become a major player in my shop.  It's been very reliable.  I love the smooth controls.  My only wish is that I could plane 15" or even 20" on it, but isn't that the way it always goes with machines -- no matter what size you have, you eventually want the next size up!

Regarding dust collection, I've found that fine dust still flies around.  Unlike you, I only get about 70% of the coarse debris.  When I remove the apron, no matter how careful I am, a lot of debris falls to the ground.  Perhaps I need a different bucket.  Right now, I'm using a 10-gallon garbage can (photo attached).

Yes, the dust hose bumps into the infeed/outfeed tables, which I have always found to be annoying.  I was hoping that DeWalt might have fixed this engineering oversight by now!  (Hey, they're not Festool.)  This does cut down on the space-saving aspects of the machine, as I can't move it up as close to the wall as I would like.

You're right about the hose drooping down and dragging on the dust bag.  I've solved the issue by running the hose over my bandsaw fence or over the edge of the MFT.  I keep saying I'm going to develop a support of some kind to deal with this, but haven't done it yet.

Regarding the thickness indicator, I never use it to get an actual measurement.  After using the planer a lot, I have developed a sense of proportion by looking at it quickly, and I know when I'm removing 1/16".  By the way, I never remove more than 1/32" at a time.  Also, keep in mind that if your stock is still uneven, the reading is only telling you how much you're removing from the leading edge (this is probably obvious to you, but I thought I would mention it).  When I first bought this planer, I made the mistake of hogging off more than 1/16", but have since learned to take it easy.  The scale goes to 1/8", but I would never actually take that much off.

Regarding the 179/96 CPI option, I almost always set it to 96.  The finish on my surfaces is great at this setting.  For presentation pieces, I will sometimes do the 179 as a final run.

I have the foot pedal installed the same way as you did it.  I like this setup, since it gives me quicker access to the handle for pulling and pushing the planer into position.

If you're getting snipe, look at the infeed/outfeed table heights.  I've never had snipe on my planer, as long as I am running long enough boards.  Again, when I was first learning to use this machine, I ran short pieces and learned the hard way that there is a very good reason that the instructions call for a minimum length of 12". 

Which brings me to another idea for you...

I attached a photo of a very simple jig for planing boards under 12" in length.  It's just a 36"-long piece of 3/4" MDF with a cleat glued into a dado, along with strips of "super high-friction tape" (from Lee Valley Tools) to hold the stock in place.  With this jig, I safely plane pieces that are under 12".  Remember, don't attempt to plane pieces under this minimum!  You'll get super snipe if you do!!

You won't need to worry about this right now, but eventually you'll need to change the blades.  Blade changes are really nice with this planer.  The blades are reversible, so you get double use.  Even better, there's a great quick-set feature: the blades snap into a set of tabs and are automatically set at the perfect height.  (Why can't manufacturers include this kind of thing with jointers?)

Couple of notes that you probably already know, but might as well say it here:
- Remember to wear ear protection.
- Don't stand directly behind the planer when you send stock through.  I've never had it happen to me, but I've heard that stock can be thrown back.  If you need a reminder, just stand behind the planer when it's off and notice where you'll be hit if the board kicks back.  Enough said!

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

Stay in touch,
Matthew

Dan,
Couple of other obvious points on the jig that I might as well add:
- The cleat in the back should only be about 1/4" above the surface, so it doesn't get planed.
- The reason I made the jig 36" long, even though it is for short pieces, is because sometimes I have short and long stock in the same project, and to make sure they are all the same thickness in the end they need a common reference.  So if I use the jig on the short pieces, I also use it on the longer pieces.

I'm about to make another of these jigs that is shorter, maybe 18" long, for those situations where all stock I'm planing is under 12".

I'd like to hear from others on dust collection ideas.

Matthew

Hot glue also works good for these operations.

"If you use the DC hood, how do you support it?"

I don't use the dust hood but this may help:
While it's not the most suave looking thing, I use a wire coat hanger.  My planer is located next to the garage door and I just hook the coat hanger into one of the door brackets and thread the hose through it to the connector on the back of the planer.

As far as storing the bed extensions I remove the hard DC plastic hose connector and use a short bungee connected to the front and back beds to keep them upright.