Author Topic: Drill press vises  (Read 3234 times)

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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises & Versa-Vises
« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2019, 09:48 AM »
Here's a set of cork covered angle jaws produced for the Shop Fox version that will readily clamp tapered pieces. I assume they will fit virtually all of the various Versa-Vises out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3126-Tilting-Parrot/dp/B0000DD4ZV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=d3126&qid=1567351895&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews






And here's the option Garrett Wade offers for their version of the Versa-Vise.

https://www.garrettwade.com/gyrojaw-vise-accessory-gp.html?merchPageType=product&merchPageId=05R10.01&merchArea=crosssell&merchPos=3


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Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #31 on: September 05, 2019, 04:38 PM »
WooHoo, received a Will-Burt versa vise today.  It operates very smoothly and shows no signs of cracks or significant issues.  Now for the job of cleaning, stripping, de-rusting and repainting.  I had never seen one of these before and only became aware of them through a couple of threads here on FOG. 

Thanks to the folks who helped me drain my allowance  [big grin].



« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 06:06 PM by Dick Mahany »

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2019, 11:32 PM »
WooHoo, received a Will-Burt versa vise today.  It operates very smoothly and shows no signs of cracks or significant issues.  Now for the job of cleaning, stripping, de-rusting and repainting.  I had never seen one of these before and only became aware of them through a couple of threads here on FOG. 

Thanks to the folks who helped me drain my allowance  [big grin].

You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #33 on: September 06, 2019, 08:03 AM »
You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

I got some great tips on how to dismantle it and remove the manufacturer's name plate from a fellow on a garage forum who does restorations.  He posted a pic of his last restoration and it looked much like Richard's with a black body, but the one he showed me had a red dynamic jaw.  His work is perfect and I'm fortunate to have his advice.

I hope yours holds up well with the oiling...........do things still rust when it gets to -20F ?  [big grin]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

Offline rst

  • Posts: 2227
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #34 on: September 06, 2019, 08:38 AM »
I received my Versa Vise direct from willburtversavise.com yesterday...$96.00.  Great looking, planning to make a 3/8" polycarbonate base that I can secure to my MFT (countersunk truss head screws, threaded dogs from under table, same way I attach Sys Vacs) or clamp to other tables.

Offline Richard/RMW

  • Posts: 1915
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #35 on: September 06, 2019, 11:36 AM »
You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

I got some great tips on how to dismantle it and remove the manufacturer's name plate from a fellow on a garage forum who does restorations.  He posted a pic of his last restoration and it looked much like Richard's with a black body, but the one he showed me had a red dynamic jaw.  His work is perfect and I'm fortunate to have his advice.

I hope yours holds up well with the oiling...........do things still rust when it gets to -20F ?  [big grin]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

@Dick Mahany my latest volley in the rust wars is LPS 3, I don't recall who suggested it but it's been good on the bandsaw/disk sander so far. It's supposed to be penetrating, waxie and self-healing whatever that add up to.

The trade-off is always the potential to contaminate a wood surface that will be receiving finish, which is partly the reason I lined the vise jaws with the cork/rubber stuff. Time will tell.

Last winter I bit the bullet and left the heat on @50 in the shop all winter, which largely prevented condensation from forming. I have a single 240V 24" by 48" radiant panel and from what I can tell the cost was <$100/MO. One of the joys of having 4 seasons and a nearby ocean, stuff never rusted when I lived in the desert.

Curious if you can share the tips on removing the nameplate, that one has me baffled.

RMW
As of 10/17 I am out of the Dog business and pursuing other distractions. Thanks for a fun ride!

Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #36 on: September 06, 2019, 11:52 AM »

@Dick Mahany my latest volley in the rust wars is LPS 3, I don't recall who suggested it but it's been good on the bandsaw/disk sander so far. It's supposed to be penetrating, waxie and self-healing whatever that add up to.

The trade-off is always the potential to contaminate a wood surface that will be receiving finish, which is partly the reason I lined the vise jaws with the cork/rubber stuff. Time will tell.

Last winter I bit the bullet and left the heat on @50 in the shop all winter, which largely prevented condensation from forming. I have a single 240V 24" by 48" radiant panel and from what I can tell the cost was <$100/MO. One of the joys of having 4 seasons and a nearby ocean, stuff never rusted when I lived in the desert.

Curious if you can share the tips on removing the nameplate, that one has me baffled.

RMW

@Richard/RMW thank you for the info on the rust prevention.  I'm thinking that I won't have a major problem here in the desert, but I do manage to get some on the bandsaw.

As far as the nameplate, many of these vises have the pin holes drilled through the EDIT jaw casting, although the person who helped me said that some don't.  If it is drilled through, it is possible to push the pins out from behind.  It is a pretty tight space, but I'm thinking a short piece of a broken drill of the right diameter and some wedges would do it.  I'm hoping to do that over this weekend.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2019, 07:47 PM by Dick Mahany »

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #37 on: September 06, 2019, 03:29 PM »
BTW what did you use to strip yours?

I didn't...it came stripped and oiled from La Puente.  [eek]    I really like the look but not sure how well it will survive the weather in Minnesota.


Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #38 on: September 06, 2019, 03:33 PM »
BTW what did you use to strip yours?

I didn't...it came stripped and oiled from La Puente.  [eek]    I really like the look but not sure how well it will survive the weather in Minnesota.

(Attachment Link)

How funny.  Yours only lived about an hour and a half way from me, yet mine had to travel cross country from CT.

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4170
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #39 on: September 06, 2019, 04:15 PM »
“Stripped and oiled”

Long time ago when just starting out with no money I’d go to garage sales religiously to find good quality old tools that didn’t look good anymore so I co buy them cheap. I’d clean the rust off with a wire wheel and wipe the whole thing (handle and all) with plain old boiled linseed oil and set it aside to dry for a few days. Most of that stuff now stays in an unheated metal shed a less than a mile from the NY harbor and they haven’t acquired any new rust in the decades since oiled. A leather handled Estwing chipping hammer did get mold on the leather but I don’t recall if it was oiled.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #40 on: September 06, 2019, 09:41 PM »
“Stripped and oiled”

Long time ago when just starting out with no money I’d go to garage sales religiously to find good quality old tools that didn’t look good anymore so I could buy them cheap. I’d clean the rust off with a wire wheel and wipe the whole thing (handle and all) with plain old boiled linseed oil and set it aside to dry for a few days. Most of that stuff now stays in an unheated metal shed less than a mile from the NY harbor and they haven’t acquired any new rust in the decades since oiled.

That's funny but interesting.
Your first statement really rang true with me...the no money issue...we've all been there and it immediately brings me back to my 1958 Chevy Impala 348 with 3 deuces. Having no pesos and needing new hydraulic lifters, I decided my only viable choice was to clean and rebuild the existing lifters. Unfortunately, ignorance is bliss so I happily proceeded to disassemble all 16 lifters, clean all the parts in a single batch and that's when I found out that each part was originally paired up with its mating part. Well it took me a week to finally find which parts mated with each other.

I digress, thanks for that @Michael Kellough  as I mentioned, I do like the color and the rawness of the cast iron/steel surfaces on Will-Burt but am not sure how well it will maintain its "Good Looks" when exposed to humidity and my acidic paws. Also, working with Will-Burt today, my hands became slightly oily but more on the black, dirty side. I have qualms about accidentally transferring that combo to the wood surfaces I'm working with.

Does the boiled linseed oil ever "Dry"?

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4170
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #41 on: September 06, 2019, 10:14 PM »
Does the boiled linseed oil ever "Dry"?

Yes, but it does take a while. Days to be able to pick the part up without sticking to it. Okay, that’s a little exaggeration but it does stay rubbery for a good while. Even months later there can be a little bit of tackiness when handling the metal part of a tool coated with BLO. Surprisingly it doesn’t accumulate any more dust than anything else.

And I like the slightly olive color it adds to the patina of old steel.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #42 on: September 06, 2019, 10:25 PM »
And I like the slightly olive color it adds to the patina of old steel.

I could be all in on the olive tint.  [big grin] [big grin]   It becomes a rather retro artifact.


When handling the item do your hands become dirty, black, do they acquire some type of coating that could be transferred to the wood?

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1266
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #43 on: September 07, 2019, 05:50 AM »
Does the boiled linseed oil ever "Dry"?

Yes, but it does take a while. Days to be able to pick the part up without sticking to it. Okay, that’s a little exaggeration but it does stay rubbery for a good while. Even months later there can be a little bit of tackiness when handling the metal part of a tool coated with BLO. Surprisingly it doesn’t accumulate any more dust than anything else.

And I like the slightly olive color it adds to the patina of old steel.

I've used Tung Oil and it seems to dry much quicker, no tackiness the next day. I used it on a cast iron outdoor bench with wood back and seat slats that sits on our porch about 5 years ago. It's held up well, but it doesn't see much direct sunlight.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4170
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #44 on: September 07, 2019, 03:19 PM »
Tung oil is good stuff. Both tung and linseed (flax seed) polymerize naturally. When dry nothing comes off on your hands, unlike real petroleum oil which never dries. But it’s very difficult to get good quality linseed oil in the states. Instead of nice cold pressed oil we are offered filtered crushed stuff adulterated with driers and other stuff. It also darkens with age. For nice wood projects go with Tung oil but for protecting an old piece of iron blo is perfectly fine.

Pretty sure the stuff I used back then was already old and getting too icky for use on nice wood so I figured there was nothing to loose by coating old cleaned tools with it.

You can get a heavier film with Tung oil if it’s 100% pure, unadulterated with thinners.

Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #45 on: September 10, 2019, 01:23 PM »
Versa vise restoration in progress.  Stripped, cleaned, de-rusted.  I really miss Methylene Chloride based paint strippers.  I soaked the parts in acetone for 24 hrs and still had to scrub like crazy with wire brushes.  All I need to do now is a little touch up with the belt sander on the jaw sides, then paint, lube and reassemble.

Before


In process

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #46 on: September 10, 2019, 01:42 PM »
That looks good Dick... [thumbs up]

I'm surprised at how well the handle assembly cleaned up. Just acetone and a scrubbing on the handle?

Nice that you were also able to pull the name plate off.  [big grin]  There's not much room inside to get at the rivets/pins.

Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #47 on: September 10, 2019, 02:23 PM »
That looks good Dick... [thumbs up]

I'm surprised at how well the handle assembly cleaned up. Just acetone and a scrubbing on the handle?

Nice that you were also able to pull the name plate off.  [big grin]  There's not much room inside to get at the rivets/pins.

Thanks Cheese.  The handle cleaned right up with a 4" wire wheel in my drill.  The pins weren't too difficult.  Indeed there isn't much room in that casting to work on pushing the pins out.  I snapped a 0.065" jobbers drill to the right length, then used a pair of opposing cold chisels as wedges to extract the pins just far enough to get a pair of electricians nippers beneath the head to pull them out.  They're in there pretty good as they have knurled bodies and a tight fit in the casting.




Offline Dick Mahany

  • Posts: 504
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #48 on: September 12, 2019, 02:43 PM »
Restored the Versa Vise.  Now its time to fab up the MFT and dog mounts shown earlier by Richard/RMW and Cheese.  Thanks for the inspiration.  [big grin]


Offline Richard/RMW

  • Posts: 1915
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #49 on: September 12, 2019, 05:01 PM »
Restored the Versa Vise.  Now its time to fab up the MFT and dog mounts shown earlier by Richard/RMW and Cheese.  Thanks for the inspiration.  [big grin]

(Attachment Link)

@Dick Mahany she's a beauty!

Gotta admit my initial attraction (aside from the duck-bill jaws) was the curves on the end of the screw handle thingie, it's just a classic look compared to the new, square ones.

I need to meet her cousin with the shorter jaws.

Enjoy.

RMW
As of 10/17 I am out of the Dog business and pursuing other distractions. Thanks for a fun ride!

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6383
Re: Drill press vises
« Reply #50 on: September 12, 2019, 06:46 PM »
The before & after shots are stunning Dick. [thumbs up]

Nice job...