Author Topic: Drill Press Table  (Read 3491 times)

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Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 430
    • In The Woodshop
Drill Press Table
« on: December 09, 2019, 11:20 AM »
A couple of weeks ago I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased a Nova Voyager drill press for a great discount. This replaced a Taiwanese model I had for 25 years. Yeah, I know this machine is OTT, but it is an amazing tool. For those who are not familiar with the Voyager, it is a computerised, variable speed drill press with a 2 hp direct drive motor (240v). I have already used it to determine the ideal speed for a selection of forstner bits, and then drill to a preset depth, and stop automatically at that depth.

Putting it together was .. uh  ... a little scary. The motor section is extremely heavy, and I was concerned that I would drop it in my usual clumsy fashion. Anyway, it was put together without mishap. A Nova fence was one of the freebees thrown in ...



Nova recommend that one not use a mobile base, however I need to do so since my machines occupy one side of a double garage, and some machines need to be mobile. The drill press is one. The ideal mobile base is as low to the floor as possible. A low centre of gravity is more stable, but also you do not want to raise the drill press up too much as the controls and computer screen may be moved out of your comfort zone.



Steel mobile base on lockable wheels ...



This post is more about the table I built for the drill press. Some may be able to use the ideas here. Most of the ideas are old hat, but there are a couple of novel ideas. My old drill press  used nothing more exciting than a piece of plywood over the cast iron table. Somehow it was sufficient, although the work holding sucked ... and this is what I wanted to address here. Plus, the sacrificial board became chewed up and useless very quickly, and I had an idea to improve on this.

I was not crazy about the cast iron table as a work surface. For a top I found in my local salvage yard a 18" x 25" UHMW slab 30mm (1-1/4") thick. This is about as perfect a table top as one could get - it is very resistant to damage, and yet will not damage wood placed on it.

It planes without any tearout :)



The first task was to dado in aluminium tracks for the fence and hold downs, and then to create a circular mortice for a sacrificial section ...



Using a power router to waste UHMW is an interesting experience - lots of plastic string everywhere, and dust control was not working well. The circular recess was time consuming and finicky. The template began as a 2" forstner cut hole. This was then progressively widened to 4" using a rebate and a flush cut bit in the router table. Finally, the template was used with a pattern cutter to create the circular recess, above.

The circular sacrificial disks are 1/2" thick MDF. I found it quicker to saw them fractionally oversize on the bandsaw, and then turn them on the lathe ...



Here now is the basic table ...



There is a cut out at the rear for the winder ...



Now why did I choose a circular sacrificial section? I have seen many drill press tables using square sections. I cannot recall seeing any with round disks (unless it was dedicated to a sander, but that is not the same thing). The drill bit is not centred on the square. Instead, it is moved to the rear of the square. That way one can rotate the disk four times after it becomes holed. My objection to this design was that one only obtained four points, and as soon as one section became holed, it could no longer back up the drill.

Now a circular disk, on the other hand, has an infinite number of positions (infinite until the circle is completed). Just rotate as much as you need. More work to make, but better in the long run.



Here is the finished table ...



The Nova fence came with those twisty levers. They are useless ... difficult to achieve the ideal tautness and hard to get to behind the fence. I replaced them with the long knobs. These needed to be cut down by 3/4" to avoid fowling the downfeed handles.



The tracks not only hold the fence, but also Incra hold downs ...



... and even the Micro Jig clamps for taller boards ...



I hope there is something you can use.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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Offline rvieceli

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2019, 12:22 PM »
very nice

Offline egmiii

  • Posts: 186
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2019, 01:42 PM »
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 1042
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2019, 04:16 PM »
Nice job, they are a real nice piece of kit.

I made a mobile base for mine, and a melamine table. I replaced the table lift crank handle with a wheel, as I wanted a full width table. Added a Wixey laser and an Albrecht chuck.
Well pleased.

Enjoy yours  [thumbs up]

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 430
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2019, 06:32 PM »
Hi JJ

I shall be adding a Wixey laser (ordered), and I have also another laser to install, one with a long, straight line. This is to aid in aligning angles for staked legs. If you need to add a light, a LED book light works well.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1624
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2019, 10:09 PM »
"a LED book light works well."

An LED sewing machine light works well too, and may be brighter
than a reading light. Many also have magnetic bases. You can find
them for <$15 online.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7240
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2019, 11:27 PM »
Nice job on the table Derek. The Wixey laser is really nice. A ton better than the earlier generation manufactured from someone else. That was trash.

Also a fan of Albrecht keyless chucks. The UHMW makes a great table material. It’s tough to kill.

I also did an offset table insert, however it was square which only gave me 4 turns. I really like the circular geometry, it just makes sense.

Aesthetically I love the black/silver contrast.  That alone is enough to dumpster dive for the UHMW.

Offline hdv

  • Posts: 102
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2019, 05:26 AM »
Hi Derek, Great job with that drill press table! I did the same with my drill press table. Round inserts as sacrificial backers made more sense to me as well. I wanted to add an option for drum sanding, so if had to make inserts for inserts[1]  [blink]. I does work great though.

[1] I posted some photos in this thread that show what I mean with that.


Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 1042
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2019, 05:30 AM »
Hi JJ

I shall be adding a Wixey laser (ordered), and I have also another laser to install, one with a long, straight line. This is to aid in aligning angles for staked legs. If you need to add a light, a LED book light works well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek, thanks, I’ll take a look at the LED book lights.

Offline Rich Kline

  • Posts: 71
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2019, 11:53 AM »
Sorry, what is "UHMW"

Thanks,
Rich

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 1042
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2019, 12:42 PM »
Sorry, what is "UHMW"

Thanks,
Rich

Hi Rich.
Ultra High Molecular Weight polythene/plastic is the sheet material Derek made his table from. [wink]

Offline Rich Kline

  • Posts: 71
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2019, 12:48 PM »
Thanks!  Is it similar to Phenolic?   I love that he found it at a salvage yard.

Offline Cheese

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2019, 01:27 PM »
Thanks!  Is it similar to Phenolic? 

No, two different animals. Phenolic is comprised of layers of paper and a resin.

UHMW is polyethylene plastic. Very slippery and very durable but not as stiff as phenolic.

Offline 08G8V8

  • Posts: 56
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2019, 04:33 AM »

I also did an offset table insert, however it was square which only gave me 4 turns. I really like the circular geometry, it just makes sense.




Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.


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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7240
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2019, 10:56 AM »
Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.

Yes it is a Woodpecker table, I like it a lot. For me one of the best features is the short fence but with 6-8 stainless stops attached. If doing multiple pieces that have the holes in the same place just set the stops and each piece will be the same. On long pieces I will work left to right, rotate the piece 180º and then work right to left.



I started with the hole in the center of the insert, then offset the square insert by about 1/2" and now I'm thinking about making an adapter so I can use a circular offset insert.

The DP3 fence is also nice to have. This summer I needed to bore holes in 2" PVC pipe. The holes needed to be centered and located at the same distance on all of the pieces. I clamped a stop to the DP3 fence and then clamped each PVC pipe to the fence and bored the holes. Easier, faster and more accurate than placing each item in a vise.


Offline 08G8V8

  • Posts: 56
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2019, 12:22 PM »
I ordered the number 2 package with the knuckle clamps and 2 plastic flip stops. I already have a couple of the metal flip stops. I almost ordered the DP3 fence, but I ordered extra angle extrusion from 8020 on my order that is coming this coming week. I have some 3x3x.25 angle that I can make a fence from.

I will be offsetting my table when I set it up this weekend.

Thanks


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Offline 08G8V8

  • Posts: 56
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #16 on: December 12, 2019, 12:33 PM »
Cheese, I have seen some pics of yours in one of the Voyager drillpress threads, and it looks like a Woodpeckers table. Is that right?  I ordered one being delivered today. If so, did you just offset it by an inch or so to be able to allow the rotation of the filler plate?  I assume the Woodpecker is centered on the filler.


I started with the hole in the center of the insert, then offset the square insert by about 1/2" and now I'm thinking about making an adapter so I can use a circular offset insert.

I assume you plan on just routing to the minimum diameter to remove the square and make it round at the same depth. That sounds like a good feature, so I will follow your lead down the road, but will just use it offset slightly for now.



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Offline jeffinsgf

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  • Posts: 283
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #17 on: December 12, 2019, 12:38 PM »
DISCLAIMER: For anyone who doesn't know, I work for Woodpeckers.

The circular inserts look like a pretty nifty feature, and we've contemplated them a time or two...BUT...

Everyone reading this is equipped to make square replacement inserts in a moments notice. There are far fewer who are equipped to make round inserts, and even if you have the stuff, they take more time and are harder to make fit perfectly.

Every time I have an oddball scrap of ply or MDF, it gets cut up into insert squares instead of going into the trash. I have a stack by my DP. Always have fresh support.

Offline tjskinny

  • Posts: 88
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #18 on: December 12, 2019, 12:45 PM »
Very nice Derek !

I did a similar thing with the Nova fence using a rockler drill table with t-tracks, knobs, and a square sacrificial plate.  But I do like your design much better.

Just curious, how did you mount your table to the existing Nova table?


Offline Scott in Bend

  • Posts: 254
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #19 on: December 12, 2019, 01:28 PM »
Why not use a round insert in the existing square hole?  You could use the four open corners as an insert lifting/rotating access point.

Offline jeffinsgf

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  • Posts: 283
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2019, 02:38 PM »
Why not use a round insert in the existing square hole?  You could use the four open corners as an insert lifting/rotating access point.

Or...an octagon, which would give you 8 fresh points vs. 4, and you could still cut it with straight-line equipment.

Offline Mike Goetzke

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2019, 03:17 PM »
How often do most change out these inserts?

Offline jeffinsgf

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #22 on: December 12, 2019, 03:49 PM »
How often do most change out these inserts?
Depends on what you're cutting and how critical back side tear out is to you. For furniture and cabinet work, where the back of the cut will be exposed, you want a fully clean surface directly under the hole. For rough work, it probably doesn't matter.

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #23 on: December 12, 2019, 03:54 PM »
How often do most change out these inserts?

It really depends on usage Mike. My inserts are circular, and quite big, with a fair drill point offset. As I use Forstners and hole saws quite a bit, these can eat the inserts quite quickly but, when drilling up to 10mm they last well. When cutting real large holes, I clamp a sacrificial board to the table.
One afternoon I made up a stack of inserts that should last a while.

Offline Mike Goetzke

  • Posts: 529
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #24 on: December 12, 2019, 04:04 PM »
How often do most change out these inserts?

It really depends on usage Mike. My inserts are circular, and quite big, with a fair drill point offset. As I use Forstners and hole saws quite a bit, these can eat the inserts quite quickly but, when drilling up to 10mm they last well. When cutting real large holes, I clamp a sacrificial board to the table.
One afternoon I made up a stack of inserts that should last a while.

This is why I asked. I built a DP table many years ago from a Wood Magazine design. It has seen it's day and needs replacement. I made several inserts for the table but have only used a couple over probably 20 years! I usually use a backer board like you suggest.

Also, I use my DP about 30-40% of the time for aluminum/steel. Do others use separate DP's for wood/metal work?

Thanks
Mike

Offline Bob D.

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #25 on: December 12, 2019, 04:55 PM »
Why not use a round insert in the existing square hole?  You could use the four open corners as an insert lifting/rotating access point.

Or...an octagon, which would give you 8 fresh points vs. 4, and you could still cut it with straight-line equipment.

And if you flip it over, 8 more.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline dicktill

  • Posts: 333
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2019, 08:13 PM »
Why not use a round insert in the existing square hole?  You could use the four open corners as an insert lifting/rotating access point.

Or...an octagon, which would give you 8 fresh points vs. 4, and you could still cut it with straight-line equipment.

And if you flip it over, 8 more.

And another thing you can do to get more usage out your insert is to swing (rotate) the table left or right slightly.

Offline derekcohen

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    • In The Woodshop
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #27 on: December 14, 2019, 04:09 AM »
I replaced the Nova chuck (which is actually a cheapish Chinese-made keyed chuck), with a 13mm keyless Albrecht clone I have used for several years. I had good results with this in my previous drill press, and was wondering whether to upgrade it or not. Consequently, I completed some run out tests for it.

Set up ...



I used a 1/4" shank carbide router bit as the test piece. This was a one-time test, so I may have had better results from another router bit, or from re-positioning it. It is what it is ...



Results ...



This reads 0.045mm run out. That is 0.0017" run out. Is that good or bad?

My understanding is: there is run out that may occur with the spindle, then there is run out that will occur at the chuck and quill (which could also be measured separately), and finally there is the run out measured at the bit. The results here are a total of all these together. It was mentioned to me that around 5 thousands of an inch would be acceptable. I have 1 thousand inch. 

The other item I attended to was to add a Wixey laser guide ...



It tucks aware and is quite unobtrusive ...



It leaves a nice, clean line ...



... but it is a little wider than expected. The jury is out whether it is just a gimmick, or whether it will prove to be useful.

Regards from Perth

Derek
« Last Edit: December 14, 2019, 04:49 AM by derekcohen »

Offline Bob D.

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Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #28 on: December 14, 2019, 04:41 AM »
Did you also check the spindle above the chuck?

-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 1159
Re: Drill Press Table
« Reply #29 on: December 14, 2019, 08:25 AM »
@derekcohen consider picking up a precision ground dowel pin from 4 - 6 inches long. I use a 1/2 inch one. IF you are all metric a 12 mm would probably be your choice. They are manufactured to very tight tolerance. Here is a 12mm from McMaster Carr, you should be able to find similar from a supply house down there.

https://www.mcmaster.com/91585a972

This gives a bigger target fro the caliper and you know it is straight and hasn't been flexed.

You can also do some other tests as well in addition to the run out. Chuck it up and then use an engineer's square or a 1-2-3 block to check that everything is perpendicular to the table in all directions. You may have to shim your table to get it straight.

With the pin chucked, you always know the outside edge of the pin is a constant half the diameter to the center point. With my !/2 pin, if I want to place a hole 1.5 inches from an edge, I place a 1 inch and a 1/4 inch spacer between the fence and the pin and it is 1 1/2 every time.

Ron