Author Topic: 2019 Miter Saw options? (Read 11757 times)

glass1 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 20, 2019, 11:29 PM »

Try sliding the detente plate forward towards you. If it’s too far back away from you there can be some slop on the ls1019. I think the cordless version is better. I have the ls1219 which I like better than both 10” models.

DashZero · « **Reply #31 on:** March 20, 2019, 11:55 PM »

I had a Dewalt Flexvolt DHS790AT2

I used it to cut baseboard, rebuild split jamb door frames with a different mounding, cut luxury vinyl locking floor planks, cut 2x4.

It was used outside, under a carport, for 9.5 months on mostly battery power. This was done to repair flood damage to my older brothers house.

I hated the dust collection. It was hooked up to a a large Ridgid shop vac sometimes and other times a large craftsman shop vac. I found I couldn’t keep the weird rubber diaphragm open enough to capture saw dust. To much suction the diaphragm collapsed, and not enough suction dust was sucked up.

During this time I used the Festool TS55 to make rip cuts for trim at the top of ikea kitchen cabinets, and to cut side panels for the ikea kitchen cabinets, and to cut Corian for the shower and tub surround and window ledge. The dust collection on this was awesome.

I’m looking for another miter saw myself for some work at my home. I think if all else fails I’ll cut some floor for my own place with the TS55. Perhaps i can do the baseboard with a coping saw.

simonh · « **Reply #32 on:** March 21, 2019, 09:20 AM »

I have the Dewalt 717XPS. I felt the Festool Kapex 120 was too expensive for my needs and didn't really offer much more in features than the DW717. The Kapex 60 was a similar price to the DW but a very poor comparison IMO and it just wasn't built the same as the 120.

The only slightly disappointing thing was the dust collection wasn't as good as on the Kapex I'd demoed. But the fix was very simple! The problem seems to be that there is very little suction from a shop vacuum down at the dust shoe. Most of the suction is dissipated over too wide an area near the top of the blade. To solve this I inserted a piece of 3/4" flexible pipe through the dust connection port and down to where the dust collection shoe is located (there's even a small aperture that is perfect to feed the pipe through to hold it in place). The difference is amazing. There's now real suction right near the back of the blade which you can see visually sucking the dust towards it (and also still suction up near the top of the blade where particles get flung). The dust collection is top notch. It may benefit even further from a slightly bigger dust shoe in combination but I haven't been bothered with trying that yet as I've been so impressed with this simple modifiction.

RKA · « **Reply #33 on:** March 21, 2019, 10:27 AM »

Wow, well done simon! It's amazing that a tool manufacturer doesn't invest the time to figure this stuff out and solve the problem. Thanks for sharing!

alice · « **Reply #34 on:** March 21, 2019, 05:33 PM »

Does anyone know if a miter saw from Europe that is 110 volt work properly in North America?

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #35 on:** March 21, 2019, 09:00 PM »

Quote from: alice on March 21, 2019, 05:33 PM

Does anyone know if a miter saw from Europe that is 110 volt work properly in North America?

I can’t see why not but, maybe compare ampage etc.
I have bought stuff from the USA, and fitted a UK 110 volt plug, and plugged it into a 110 volt transformer, and always been fine.

DashZero · « **Reply #36 on:** March 21, 2019, 09:54 PM »

Quote from: alice on March 21, 2019, 05:33 PM

Does anyone know if a miter saw from Europe that is 110 volt work properly in North America?

Which saw are you thinking about?

simonh · « **Reply #37 on:** March 22, 2019, 04:13 AM »

I overheard someone at a trade show asking a Festool rep about availability of more 110V versions of tools in the UK. He said that 110V only accounted for 10% of their business worldwide. Rather than been development of any further 110V tools all future efforts would be directed at battery based versions.

Made me wonder if a battery version of the Kapex was the future and would solve the problems by giving full control of the power source! DeWalt and others already have battery versions so it's doable and the battery power is constantly improving.

alice · « **Reply #38 on:** March 22, 2019, 04:31 AM »

The saw I was looking at was the dewalt dws774 miter saw

JimH2 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 22, 2019, 09:15 AM »

Quote from: simonh on March 22, 2019, 04:13 AM

I overheard someone at a trade show asking a Festool rep about availability of more 110V versions of tools in the UK. He said that 110V only accounted for 10% of their business worldwide. Rather than been development of any further 110V tools all future efforts would be directed at battery based versions.

Made me wonder if a battery version of the Kapex was the future and would solve the problems by giving full control of the power source! DeWalt and others already have battery versions so it's doable and the battery power is constantly improving.

The 110V tools are required on UK construction sites (and used extensively in US) so I doubt they will be scaling back on development. There is not a lot of difference between a 230/240V power tool and a 110/120V power tool beyond motor and possibly controller board (if one is present). The non-power related portions of the tools are probably all identical.

As for battery power the Dewalt 60V tools are promising. I have the mitre saw for framing and have used it with and without batteries. It works great with both, but having the option to plug in is the best feature it has. No fear of running out of juice and having to have a load of charged batteries around. One consideration on the Dewalt and probably other battery powered tools is that thinner kerf blades are used which can lead to deflection. Not a big deal for framing, but for trim it can be problematic.

alice · « **Reply #40 on:** March 22, 2019, 11:07 AM »

Their is a battery version of the dws774 but their batteries are 54volt and we use 60volt.I wonder if you can use a 60 volt in their saws?

DashZero · « **Reply #41 on:** March 23, 2019, 01:56 PM »

Quote from: alice on March 22, 2019, 11:07 AM

Their is a battery version of the dws774 but their batteries are 54volt and we use 60volt.I wonder if you can use a 60 volt in their saws?

The Dewalt 54v battery can read up to 60v (maximum) on a voltmeter if charged full. Under load the 60V max battery gives 54v.

The sticker and wording is different due to marketing.

The 18v under load battery systems when changed to other style battery’s cases people to get confused which to buy in the US when Bosch I think changed. Then Dewalt decided when going from the internal 18v underload Battery to the slide on battery to call it 20v MAX (vs 20v XR in other parts of the world)

That’s is my understanding from reading different sources.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #42 on:** March 24, 2019, 08:24 AM »

Yesterday in two different tool shops/stores, I looked at the mains powered and cordless Makita. The mains powered versions had detente slop, and the cordless none? This was the case in both shop/stores. I know adjusting will fix it but, still odd that the cordless are rock solid even unlocked?

travisj · « **Reply #43 on:** March 24, 2019, 01:42 PM »

I am going to try to go look this week. My saw will be shop bound so cordless doesn’t necessarily interest me. I am also not concerned about weight. I want to compare the LS1019 VS the LS1219. For me, I don’t see a downside for the 12” vs the 10”.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

andrew.tao@gmail.com · « **Reply #44 on:** February 12, 2021, 10:15 AM »

I tried the two-cut test on my 1019l, and sure enough, it's misaligned.

Two issues:
1. The hex bolts are *super* tight. I mean, the lower one is forcing me to bend my hex wrenches. How loose do they need to be?
2. I'm very confused by the cut test result. The two cuts i made appear to be off, but parallel to each other, not skewed. I'm not really sure how twisting the rails would get these two cuts to meet up, if you know what i mean.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AdWWc3cwxfzjJ9v5A

jpmeunier · « **Reply #45 on:** February 12, 2021, 10:22 AM »

Quote from: travisj on March 24, 2019, 01:42 PM

I am going to try to go look this week. My saw will be shop bound so cordless doesn’t necessarily interest me. I am also not concerned about weight. I want to compare the LS1019 VS the LS1219. For me, I don’t see a downside for the 12” vs the 10”.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The bigger the blade the more deflection.

andrew.tao@gmail.com · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2021, 07:07 PM »

It seems to me that the problem with my test cut may be explained if the blade is not parallel with the rails, as i've tried to illustrate in the crude diagram below which is what things look like from birds-eye view. Is there an adjustment screw for this? It would seem like the adjustment would be near the blade's arbor?

I'm not sure that my test cut can be explained with the rails being twisted.

glass1 · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2021, 07:28 PM »

Yep. There is only one way to fix this. Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the rails to the front connector bar. Twist bars and tighten screws. Trial and error till you get the rails untwisted.

andrew.tao@gmail.com · « **Reply #48 on:** February 13, 2021, 11:22 AM »

Quote from: glass1 on February 12, 2021, 07:28 PM

Yep. There is only one way to fix this. Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the rails to the front connector bar. Twist bars and tighten screws. Trial and error till you get the rails untwisted.

If the rails being twisted were responsible for this, wouldn't the top of the cut be a different width than the bottom of the cut?

andrew.tao@gmail.com · « **Reply #49 on:** March 03, 2021, 01:34 AM »

I ended up taking my saw into a makita factory service center. They were great, fixed the issue, had to actually replace the arm of the saw, not the rails. But the two cut test now looks great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk