Author Topic: Thin Rip Guide (Read 3072 times)

Birdhunter · « **on:** February 12, 2023, 05:08 PM »

I know this tool has been discussed before and there are many ways to accomplish the same function, but I find the guide to be extremely useful in reproducing thin trim pieces for the boxes I like to make.

I’m making a box for a friend’s cremains and need to cut trim pieces from scrap ebony of various sizes.

The guide made the task effortless.

Peter Halle · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2023, 06:55 PM »

@Birdhunter , ar you talking about the Woodpeckers Thin Rip Guide?

Peter

box185 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2023, 07:47 PM »

From jackenglishmachines . . .

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cjbki3PDvmu/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY%3D

ChuckS · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2023, 07:55 PM »

Good concept. Make that ripping jig more versatile by making the fences adjustable.

box185 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2023, 10:24 PM »

Another option . . .

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClyX_zNJ7Zr/?igshid=ZDhmZGIxNmQ%3D

Birdhunter · « **Reply #5 on:** February 13, 2023, 12:29 PM »

I am referring to the WP unit.

ChuckS · « **Reply #6 on:** February 13, 2023, 09:04 PM »

Quote from: box185 on February 12, 2023, 10:24 PM

Another option . . .

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClyX_zNJ7Zr/?igshid=ZDhmZGIxNmQ%3D

This jig can also be adapted with an adjustable fence, and I like how he used a pad to feed the stock. Safety first.

eschumac · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2023, 10:58 PM »

And there is this guy

luvmytoolz · « **Reply #8 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:37 AM »

Quote from: eschumac on February 13, 2023, 10:58 PM

And there is this guy

Full points for enthusiasm but I think the other guys processes and jigs are better, around the 13:50 mark the video illustrates why it's not for the faint hearted or inexperienced.

ChuckS · « **Reply #9 on:** February 14, 2023, 09:26 AM »

The third video is way too long for my taste, so I didn't finish it (to find out how his method really works). On that count, if I needed to follow and adapt any of the three methods, one of the first two would be the choice. But I have had no problem ripping thin strips before -- even long narrow ones, as long as 3 feet long or so -- so I'll stick to the techniques I'm familiar with.

Packard · « **Reply #10 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:54 PM »

Quote from: ChuckS on February 14, 2023, 09:26 AM

The third video is way too long for my taste, so I didn't finish it (to find out how his method really works). […]

I agree.

My journalism professor remarked on one of my papers, “Terse. Pithy. To the point. Excellent job.” (Using redundant phrases here was his idea of humor.)

The video maker could have benefited from that same college course. Even modest editing would have brought that entire video to 5 or 6 minutes and would have kept my attention.

I think a terse, pithy and to the point editing job would result in a 4 minute video. This failure to tightly edit videos is endemic online. People should call them out on that point.

Separately:

When I had a lot of strips to rip, I bought a thin rip blade. It saves a lot of material.

I made a special jig. The method he uses seems to invited kick back/up.

luvmytoolz · « **Reply #11 on:** February 14, 2023, 04:40 PM »

Quote from: Packard on February 14, 2023, 03:54 PM

Quote from: ChuckS on February 14, 2023, 09:26 AM
The third video is way too long for my taste, so I didn't finish it (to find out how his method really works). […]

I agree.

My journalism professor remarked on one of my papers, “Terse. Pithy. To the point. Excellent job.” (Using redundant phrases here was his idea of humor.)

The video maker could have benefited from that same college course. Even modest editing would have brought that entire video to 5 or 6 minutes and would have kept my attention.

I think a terse, pithy and to the point editing job would result in a 4 minute video. This failure to tightly edit videos is endemic online. People should call them out on that point.

Separately:

When I had a lot of strips to rip, I bought a thin rip blade. It saves a lot of material.

I made a special jig. The method he uses seems to invited kick back/up.

Potential kick back wasn't the only issue, he was using painters tape as a zero clearance insert, and at one point when pushing the material through it caught and dug into the empty space under the tape. Just not practical or safe I reckon.

eschumac · « **Reply #12 on:** February 14, 2023, 05:34 PM »

I love the variety of ideas to adapt to your own approach.

Am I the only one that skips around videos and watches them at 1.75 speed?

ChuckS · « **Reply #13 on:** February 14, 2023, 05:55 PM »

To feed and cut long strips on the table saw, I go with a jig period furniture maker Chuck Bender came up with:

The curved jig is set at a height same as the thickness of the thin strip.

Note: I set the riving knife flush with the blade's teeth on the right, rather than on the left as suggested in the user manual. That set-up keeps the leading part of the strip against the fence once it passes the blade.

eschumac · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2023, 05:57 PM »

How do you push it through?

ChuckS · « **Reply #15 on:** February 14, 2023, 06:02 PM »

The last part was fed through with a scrap stick. The jig kept everything down, eliminating any vibration from the sawing.

Packard · « **Reply #16 on:** February 15, 2023, 09:13 AM »

I use the method described in the Woodsmith article. The jig takes 5 minutes to make from scrap lumber. It seems safe, and is efficient.

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/ripping-thin-strips-2/

Birdhunter · « **Reply #17 on:** February 15, 2023, 04:08 PM »

The problem I have with the Packard guide is if I have to come back later and cut another thin strip of the same thickness. Once you move the fence, you are into setup mode.

The WP guide eliminates this problem.

box185 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2023, 04:54 PM »

Quote from: Birdhunter on February 15, 2023, 04:08 PM

The WP guide eliminates this problem.

The WP guide requires you to move your fence for every next piece, right? That’s what I don’t like about that method.

Packard · « **Reply #19 on:** February 15, 2023, 04:59 PM »

Quote from: Birdhunter on February 15, 2023, 04:08 PM

The problem I have with the Packard guide is if I have to come back later and cut another thin strip of the same thickness. Once you move the fence, you are into setup mode.

The WP guide eliminates this problem.

When I ripped the strips, I noted on the strip guide the fence setting. So getting additional strips only required that I set the fence exactly on 3/16”.

Whenever I cut narrow strips, I always use an actual fence marking, and not something “a little more than…” or “a littles less than.”

There might be a situation where that won’t work, but I have not come across it yet.

Getting a perfectly fitting dado can make me a little crazy, but setting the fence does not.

Birdhunter · « **Reply #20 on:** February 16, 2023, 09:02 AM »

“
The WP guide requires you to move your fence for every next piece, right? That’s what I don’t like about that method.”

Correct on having to move the fence, but the workpiece butts against the WP guide bearings to provide an exact fit.

I think what I like about woodworking is that there are many ways to accomplish a task. The trick is to avoid those that are dangerous.

Packard · « **Reply #21 on:** February 16, 2023, 09:47 AM »

When I first got into woodworking I had no formal or informal instruction. I learned by reading books, magazines and later on on the Internet.

One of the first books I read was re-issued in the 1980s, bought used by me around 2000 and initially printed (probably) 1950s - 1960s.

In that book they illustrated mounting two (2) rip blades with a spacer between the blades. Setup against the fence to yield two narrow strips at a time.

I did not know anything about kick back at that time and I was tempted to use that technique. But it would require that I purchase a second rip blade. Only that requirement kept me from trying that technique.

It would have not only created a kick back from the piece against the fence, but a double strength kickback from the piece trapped between the twin blades.

In retrospect, I am glad I was too cheap to buy a second blade.

Amusingly, at a later date I bought a second rip blade so that I could send one out to be sharpened and still work. But by then I learned about kickback.

The only table saw injury I have had was related to kick back. At the time, I was not aware that short pieces were particularly susceptible to kickback (or “kick-up” as it actually occurred). That required a visit to the emergency room. (I tore off the finger nail from my pointer finger—but I cannot remember if it was my left or right hand.)

ChuckS · « **Reply #22 on:** February 16, 2023, 11:14 AM »

Every time the fence is moved, there's a degree of uncertainty whether it can be restored precisely to the last or any previous position. What matters more can be the fence and not the stop, being a bearing or not. I've worked with several fences that moved a hair as you locked them down.

In every case I did thin strips with some kind of a stop as a reference*, I was happy with the result. That might not be the case if it was machining rather than woodworking that we're talking about. Even the fixed ripping jigs shown in the first two videos are not fool-proof, because the operator might unconsciously apply different side force as he feeds the stock each time. Even the runner on the jig might wear out over time.

But if a tool or gadget gives us a good sense of satisfaction from using it, the purchase is worth it.

*such as the round corner of my feather board:

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #23 on:** February 16, 2023, 12:52 PM »

Quote from: Packard on February 16, 2023, 09:47 AM

When I first got into woodworking I had no formal or informal instruction. I learned by reading books, magazines and later on on the Internet.

One of the first books I read was re-issued in the 1980s, bought used by me around 2000 and initially printed (probably) 1950s - 1960s.

In that book they illustrated mounting two (2) rip blades with a spacer between the blades. Setup against the fence to yield two narrow strips at a time.

I did not know anything about kick back at that time and I was tempted to use that technique. But it would require that I purchase a second rip blade. Only that requirement kept me from trying that technique.

It would have not only created a kick back from the piece against the fence, but a double strength kickback from the piece trapped between the twin blades.

In retrospect, I am glad I was too cheap to buy a second blade.

Amusingly, at a later date I bought a second rip blade so that I could send one out to be sharpened and still work. But by then I learned about kickback.

The only table saw injury I have had was related to kick back. At the time, I was not aware that short pieces were particularly susceptible to kickback (or “kick-up” as it actually occurred). That required a visit to the emergency room. (I tore off the finger nail from my pointer finger—but I cannot remember if it was my left or right hand.)

My only bloodletting injury on the tablesaw was around 1980 when I cut a slot through the end on my right index finger. Luckily I write and draw with my left hand. When the wound healed I was pleased to discover that the now narrower fingertip fit perfectly into the holes of rotary telephones. Our office phones were replaced with push button models a month later.

Packard · « **Reply #24 on:** February 16, 2023, 04:05 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on February 16, 2023, 12:52 PM

Quote from: Packard on February 16, 2023, 09:47 AM
When I first got into woodworking I had no formal or informal instruction. I learned by reading books, magazines and later on on the Internet.

One of the first books I read was re-issued in the 1980s, bought used by me around 2000 and initially printed (probably) 1950s - 1960s.

In that book they illustrated mounting two (2) rip blades with a spacer between the blades. Setup against the fence to yield two narrow strips at a time.

I did not know anything about kick back at that time and I was tempted to use that technique. But it would require that I purchase a second rip blade. Only that requirement kept me from trying that technique.

It would have not only created a kick back from the piece against the fence, but a double strength kickback from the piece trapped between the twin blades.

In retrospect, I am glad I was too cheap to buy a second blade.

Amusingly, at a later date I bought a second rip blade so that I could send one out to be sharpened and still work. But by then I learned about kickback.

The only table saw injury I have had was related to kick back. At the time, I was not aware that short pieces were particularly susceptible to kickback (or “kick-up” as it actually occurred). That required a visit to the emergency room. I tore off the finger nail from my pointer finger—but I cannot remember if it was my left or right hand.)

My only bloodletting injury on the tablesaw was around 1980 when I cut a slot through the end on my right index finger. Luckily I write and draw with my left hand. When the wound healed I was pleased to discover that the now narrower fingertip fit perfectly into the holes of rotary telephones. Our office phones were replaced with push button models a month later.

The original Bic 4-color ball point pens had a small ball at the top. That ball was intended to be used for dialing a rotary dial phone.

A while back, Bic re-tooled for the pen and left off the anachronistic ball. They had so many complaints about that, that they put it back (with a small hole to tie it to something in an effort to make the ball useful).

As an aside: A vendor (chrome plating) used to ask everyone they knew if they had any old rotary dial phones. Apparently the phone was used in the factory and the plating fumes were highly corrosive. They would corrode the contacts and after just a few weeks they could not dial out.

The rotary phones swiped over the contacts each time you dialed, so they stayed clean and functional for months.

luvmytoolz · « **Reply #25 on:** February 16, 2023, 04:23 PM »

On the subject of injuries, back as a teenager I built my own tablesaw using an upside down Makita 230mm circular saw. Almost the first time I used it to cut strips with my younger brother helping on the outfeed I lost my grip and slipped putting the first 2 fingers and thumb across the blade.

Got some pretty bad scarring and cut to the bone in a couple places but could have been so much worse. My brother was pretty terrified by the whole thing. Although that was nothing compared to what we used to see happen at the door companies and timber mills I worked at.

Since then I really put great value on good tools fit for purpose to help perform work safely.

Packard · « **Reply #26 on:** February 16, 2023, 05:03 PM »

In high school there was a rough character named Vinny. He carried a flask of booze with him to school every day.

I ran into him about 5 years after I graduated and he had two prosthetic arms. Both arms were lost just below the elbow. He had pinching hooks on both arms.

When I saw him I said, “Jeeze, Vinny. What happened to you?”

He explained that there was a table saw accident at the cabinet shop where he worked.

I was not into woodworking at the time and did not have enough knowledge to question that response.

There is no imaginable way to lose both your right and left arm in a table saw accident. More likely, his gambling habit caught up to him.

At any rate when the kick back tore off the nail on my finger and the attending surgeon was putting me back together, I told him how I hurt myself. I said, “At least I did not pull a ‘Vinny’”.