Author Topic: Nova Voyager Drill Press (Read 111912 times)

Cheese · « **Reply #60 on:** August 23, 2018, 12:58 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on August 23, 2018, 11:48 AM

I will give a try to the chuck coming and if accuracy do not meet my expectation will look at Rohm chucks

Accuracy is only one thing to look at with a keyless chuck. The real bug-a-boo is does the chuck hold the drill bits tightly enough to prevent rotation in the keyless chuck.

Over the last almost 50 years or so, I've been fortunate to be able to use keyless chucks in all sorts of machine tools. When it came time to purchase one for myself, I chose Albrecht because it was pretty much standard fare in machine shops and model shops. I did look at the Rohm and at the Jacobs brands because they were significantly cheaper than the Albrecht when purchased new.

Like Michael said, place one hand on the top ring of the chuck and the other hand on the chuck body and wring them together. With a good functioning chuck, you don't need to exert much force. On the Albrecht, the process takes 1-2 seconds...that 30 second delay will just become a nuisance.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #61 on:** August 23, 2018, 01:39 PM »

@RKA, @Michael Kellough, @neilc, @Vondawg Any of you guys convert it to 220v yet?

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #62 on:** August 23, 2018, 01:51 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on August 23, 2018, 12:40 PM

Quote from: Michael Kellough on August 23, 2018, 12:35 PM
The Voyager does come with a drift key.

about time you answer that question I was wondering what that key was for lol. It have a magnet and both ends are shaped differently. see image on page #1

That isn’t the drift key, just some half useful wrench for assembly. Just google images to see what the drift key looks like.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #63 on:** August 23, 2018, 01:53 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on August 23, 2018, 01:39 PM

@RKA, @Michael Kellough, @neilc, @Vondawg Any of you guys convert it to 220v yet?

Why bother?

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #64 on:** August 23, 2018, 02:05 PM »

I try to run everything I can on 220v, so I was curious if any one did.
From the instructions, you only have to change the plug and that's it.

neilc · « **Reply #65 on:** August 23, 2018, 02:08 PM »

I left it at the factory set 120 volts.

rvieceli · « **Reply #66 on:** August 23, 2018, 02:12 PM »

@Mario Turcot you might also want to pick up a 4 or 5 inch machined 1/2 inch dowel like this.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381a727/=1ea7u86

It’s useful for a lot of operations. Chuck it up and pair it with a mag base dial indicator and you test run out. The solid nature makes it easier to see on a square if the table is perpendicular to the quill.

With it chucked you always know the exact center of the bit is 1/4 inch from the outside edge of the rod. Need to put a hole 1 inch from the edge? Put a 3/4 inch spacer between the rod and the fence.

If you’re one of those metric folks then opt for a 12mm dowel

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91595a773/=1ea80p8

Ron

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #67 on:** August 23, 2018, 04:19 PM »

Forgot about this issue I had with the Voyager. The table was concave. They sent another but in the meantime I put a large cross slide table on the existing table and shimmed it square. Haven’t even opened the replacement table to check its condition.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #68 on:** August 23, 2018, 06:43 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on August 23, 2018, 04:19 PM

Forgot about this issue I had with the Voyager. The table was concave. They sent another but in the meantime I put a large cross slide table on the existing table and shimmed it square. Haven’t even opened the replacement table to check its condition.

Good to know, I will check mine. However for wood I will use a phenolic table like Neil.

ChuckS · « **Reply #69 on:** August 23, 2018, 10:57 PM »

Mario,

Can you claim this rebate for your Nova purchase?

https://www.teknatool.com/rebate/

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #70 on:** August 23, 2018, 11:36 PM »

Quote from: ChuckM on August 23, 2018, 10:57 PM

Mario,

Can you claim this rebate for your Nova purchase?

https://www.teknatool.com/rebate/

Nope, US only

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #71 on:** August 24, 2018, 06:35 AM »

Quote from: rvieceli on August 23, 2018, 02:12 PM

@Mario Turcot you might also want to pick up a 4 or 5 inch machined 1/2 inch dowel like this.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381a727/=1ea7u86

It’s useful for a lot of operations. Chuck it up and pair it with a mag base dial indicator and you test run out. The solid nature makes it easier to see on a square if the table is perpendicular to the quill.

With it chucked you always know the exact center of the bit is 1/4 inch from the outside edge of the rod. Need to put a hole 1 inch from the edge? Put a 3/4 inch spacer between the rod and the fence.

If you’re one of those metric folks then opt for a 12mm dowel

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91595a773/=1ea80p8

Ron

@rvieceli, thanks for the tip and the links. I will order both in case my dark side made me switch to imperial again

.

I never order from McMaster before and just discovered all the goodies they have...

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #72 on:** August 24, 2018, 09:34 AM »

Can't wait..

..what? by 9PM

Vondawg · « **Reply #73 on:** August 24, 2018, 02:39 PM »

I too have stayed with 120 volts( only have 3 220 curcuits) and it was where I have the drill press ...never checked my table for flat just added table/fence

now I'll have to check it. Look forward to knowing how keyless Chuck works...

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #74 on:** August 24, 2018, 04:00 PM »

What I did wrong?

The arbor that came with the keyless chuck do not fit in the chuck

No luck removing the arbor that came with the machine

I don't have any arbor wedge... pushing a bolt through the chuck?

rvieceli · « **Reply #75 on:** August 24, 2018, 04:27 PM »

Mario DO NOT try to remove the existing chuck and taper without a drift key. The taper and the mating surfaces in the quill are some of the most critically machined area on the press. Don’t risk screwing them up. Order a drift key and wait for it to come.

As for the new taper, the fit is designed to be a tight friction fit. That’s the only thing that holding the two pieces together. There should be some YouTube videos on installing the taper in the chuck.

Ron

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #76 on:** August 24, 2018, 04:40 PM »

Quote from: rvieceli on August 24, 2018, 04:27 PM

Mario DO NOT try to remove the existing chuck and taper without a drift key. The taper and the mating surfaces in the quill are some of the most critically machined area on the press. Don’t risk screwing them up. Order a drift key and wait for it to come.

As for the new taper, the fit is designed to be a tight friction fit. That’s the only thing that holding the two pieces together. There should be some YouTube videos on installing the taper in the chuck.

Ron

No, I did used the drift key to remove the arbor from the quill and everything is intact. Now I need to remove the Arbor from the chuck to put it on the new chuck.

neilc · « **Reply #77 on:** August 24, 2018, 06:33 PM »

It's a press fit. Place the arbor in a hole on your MFT or loosely in a vise with padding and use a punch and hammer to lightly tap inside the chuck to drive it out.

Should come out easily. Just make sure you catch the arbor so it's not damaged.

Cheese · « **Reply #78 on:** August 24, 2018, 07:08 PM »

Do you even know if the taper in the original chuck is the same as the taper in the new chuck? There are several different sized tapers they could be. It be a shame to remove the arbor, and possibly damage it, only to find out that it won’t fit anyways.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #79 on:** August 24, 2018, 08:17 PM »

Quote from: neilc on August 24, 2018, 06:33 PM

It's a press fit. Place the arbor in a hole on your MFT or loosely in a vise with padding and use a punch and hammer to lightly tap inside the chuck to drive it out.

Should come out easily. Just make sure you catch the arbor so it's not damaged.

Thanks Neil, that's the confirmation I was looking for. I watched a video where the guy said exactly that and when he was about to do it, he said do not attempt to push from inside the chuck. I was a bit confused

Both chucks and arbors, you can tell that the new arbor is longer. Hard to tell it is bigger but my bet is that it is a J33 instead of a B16.

Old arbor fit in the new chuck, so the new chuck is B16.

And now on the drill press

Going to bore some on the weekend.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #80 on:** August 24, 2018, 08:18 PM »

Quote from: Cheese on August 24, 2018, 07:08 PM

Do you even know if the taper in the original chuck is the same as the taper in the new chuck? There are several different sized tapers they could be. It be a shame to remove the arbor, and possibly damage it, only to find out that it won’t fit anyways.

Yup confirmed. The old Arbor fit in both chucks

When I ordered the chuck the arbor that was include was suppose to be 2MT - B16 but I received a 2MT - J33 or so

Bob D. · « **Reply #81 on:** August 26, 2018, 09:39 AM »

Nice. Looks like the DP cabinet that Woodsmith published plans to a couple years ago.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #82 on:** August 26, 2018, 11:19 AM »

Quote from: Bob D. on August 26, 2018, 09:39 AM

Nice. Looks like the DP cabinet that Woodsmith published plans to a couple years ago.

Fun fact, I received an email from Woodsmith on Friday with a rebate for that plan

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #83 on:** August 31, 2018, 11:44 AM »

-- UPDATE --

After setting the dril press zero "ground" I made a 1 1/2" hole. Notice where the drill stops, barely hit the table insert

And now on some advertising: I like how crispy came the hole using a Lee Valley Forstner bit. The drill press set the quill speed to 500 rpm.

RKA · « **Reply #84 on:** August 31, 2018, 03:44 PM »

Okay, you do know that the more you keep posting your feedback the more I regret passing on the nova and getting the Delta?

Keep it coming!

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #85 on:** August 31, 2018, 05:10 PM »

I'm sorry (in a Canadian way) but can't help myself. The drill is just so awesome, I'm going to drill holes every where I can

Don T · « **Reply #86 on:** August 31, 2018, 05:15 PM »

If you keep posting I’m getting rid of my Delta and getting the Nova. I’ve been eying it since it was introduced but have not pulled the trigger since we travel half the year.

thudchkr · « **Reply #87 on:** August 31, 2018, 06:00 PM »

I have lusted after the Voyager drill press since it was introduced. The current rebate has made it much more enticing. Put up my old Delta floor standing drill press for sale with the plan to apply that as well to the purchase price.

Got a taker on my drill press, so the Nova just got ordered today. I’ve been using a Nova DVR lathe for many years so am excited to get a drill press with the same power source.

Now I get to start the waiting game.

BTW, is anybody using the Nova fence that they offer? Looks like it might be worth the cost, but nice to know how useful it is from someone who has one.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #88 on:** August 31, 2018, 07:31 PM »

You can set a depth and have the dp stop running when the quill reaches that point (which is cool and sometimes useful) but it can also then be difficult to extract the non-turning bit from the work, especially if the hole is deep. I set it to stop a little deeper than I plan to drill then watch the depth readout and extract the quill when it reaches my preferred depth. You’ll find there’s is little point in watching the bit drill work with this machine. Much more useful to monitor the digital read out.

thudchkr · « **Reply #89 on:** September 05, 2018, 10:32 PM »

Wow, ordered and Friday and was delivered today. Assembled it and am very happy with me decision to upgrade.

Expected the larger table but was surprised how much larger the base was over my previous Delta.

Played with it a bit and now am ready to find me a replacement chuck to put some icing on the cake.