Author Topic: Nova Voyager Drill Press (Read 111916 times)

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #210 on:** August 01, 2019, 02:26 AM »

Thanks Cheese, I will give it a try with the Rohm arbor, and I can always buy an Albrecht later I guess.

Thanks.

thudchkr · « **Reply #211 on:** August 01, 2019, 05:03 AM »

I’d probably stick the dial indicator on the Rohm, just to make sure I wasn’t seeing any measurable runout there. If so, then I’d go with the Albrecht arbor.

In for a penny, in for a pound, at this point.

ear3 · « **Reply #212 on:** August 01, 2019, 07:39 AM »

@neilc Historically, the way I've used my drill press has not really required a table, and additionally, because of it's position in my shop -- right next to the bench -- I have to rotate the table or even the entire machine out of the way when, say, working on longer pieces on the bench, or using the frame saw to resaw things in the leg vise (which is also why I need to keep it on a mobile base).

So I've always thought that setting up a more permanent DP table would create too much of an obstruction, as would the kind of fixed storage between the base of the column and the bottom of the table that some in this thread have done on their Nova. I dunno -- I'll pay attention as I use the Nova more to whether my needs shift such that a table might make sense.

@Cheese You have certainly demonstrated in other places on the FOG the possibilities for routing aluminum, so yeah, I was actually thinking about remaking the insert. Question if I may -- I assume McMaster Carr is also the place to get the aluminum stock, but I'm unsure which of the specific options are appropriate. The opening for the 3 1/4 diameter insert is exactly 1/8" deep, so I assume I would start with 1/8" aluminum sheet stock, but not sure which other parameters to choose from the various options offered by McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-aluminum-sheets

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router.

Thanks,

ed

Quote from: neilc on July 29, 2019, 09:09 PM

Edward

Do you not think you’ll make a full table with replaceable insert? I took the metal insert out of my table and just use the laminated top. I too found the metal insert was not seating the way it should.

Enjoy the DP. And check for software updates. As I said earlier you need a windows machine with a USB cable to update it. It will run under parallels on a Mac as an emulator for windows. But no native Mac updater is available.

neilc · « **Reply #213 on:** August 01, 2019, 09:40 AM »

Thanks for the photo and clarification.

I buy metals from onlinemetals.com but McMaster is certainly a choice.

I'd use an O Flute bit. This thread on Shaper community might be of interest to you. I think you have to be a member to view which I know you are.

https://community.shapertools.com/t/single-pass-1-8-aluminum-cuts/2811

You might start with a larger piece with countersunk screws in the four corners outside the circle so the origin could clear it. Route out a 1/8" indentation to capture the piece. Screw in place, tape and cut.

You will want to use cutting wax for lubricant. Amazon carries it in small quantities.

Good luck!

sprior · « **Reply #214 on:** August 01, 2019, 11:27 AM »

Quote from: ear3 on August 01, 2019, 07:39 AM

@neilc

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router.

Thanks,

ed

There's a trick for material hold down I've learned as a CNC user that you might try for this, it sounds hokey but it's very popular and works. You stick blue painters tape to the bottom of the aluminum and also to whatever you want to temporarily mount it to. Then you use super glue to glue the backs of the two tapes together. It actually holds better than regular double sided tape and doesn't release due to heat generated from the cut and doesn't gum up the bit as much. And you probably already have the stuff to try it.

Cheese · « **Reply #215 on:** August 01, 2019, 11:57 AM »

Quote from: ear3 on August 01, 2019, 07:39 AM

@Cheese You have certainly demonstrated in other places on the FOG the possibilities for routing aluminum, so yeah, I was actually thinking about remaking the insert. Question if I may -- I assume McMaster Carr is also the place to get the aluminum stock, but I'm unsure which of the specific options are appropriate. The opening for the 3 1/4 diameter insert is exactly 1/8" deep, so I assume I would start with 1/8" aluminum sheet stock, but not sure which other parameters to choose from the various options offered by McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-aluminum-sheets

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router.

Hey Edward that first MC offering of 6061 sheet will work fine. Note to self, 5052 will also work well for any future projects.

The easiest method would be to cut it out using 2 hole saws. Whatever you want for the inside diameter and then a 3 3/8" one for the OD. On Milwaukee hole saws the wall thickness + tooth offset is right around .060" so a 3 3/8' hole saw should yield a 3 1/4" aluminum slug.

I just remembered, you also have a lathe so any final "fitting" could be done on the lathe using a "lathe file" and chucking up the aluminum disc by its inside diameter.

https://www.mcmaster.com/lathe-files

Lathe files are a must when used on a lathe. They don't load up, they remove material fast and leave a nice smooth surface.

I'd make 3-4 blanks so if you need something with a different ID on another project, you just need to drill the ID. I'd also drill either a 1/8" diameter or 1/4" diameter hole (that's the diameter of the hole saw pilot drill) in the center of each blank to allow for easy indexing at a later date on the drill press.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #216 on:** August 01, 2019, 01:03 PM »

Forgot you have a Shaper. One of the first articles I read on using a Shaper for anything was a guy making flat aluminum plugs to fit a machine. Worked fantastically.

On the other hand, I (without a Shaper) wouldn’t bother trying to get a better fit on a plug that wouldn’t get used for anything. I think that poor fitting plug is just there to keep the chuck from falling through the hole and bouncing off the floor when you dislodge it from the arbor

If I want to drill through wood I don’t want to drill into a metal disk. If I want to drill through metal I want to hold the piece in a vise.

I’d make a compact wood drilling table (with basic X/Y adjustment/clamping features) that is a snug fit over the steel table. You have a lot of options for supporting long stuff.

ear3 · « **Reply #217 on:** August 01, 2019, 03:05 PM »

Thanks for the tips everyone. I am soooo appreciating drilling at high speeds again on the Drill Press. I was pretty lazy and didn't switch the belt positioning all that much on the old model, and so operated at a default slow speed to handle forstner bits.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #218 on:** August 01, 2019, 03:29 PM »

Quote from: thudchkr on August 01, 2019, 05:03 AM

I’d probably stick the dial indicator on the Rohm, just to make sure I wasn’t seeing any measurable runout there. If so, then I’d go with the Albrecht arbor.

In for a penny, in for a pound, at this point.

Yes the Rohm arbor seems fine.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #219 on:** August 01, 2019, 03:37 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on August 01, 2019, 03:05 PM

Thanks for the tips everyone. I am soooo appreciating drilling at high speeds again on the Drill Press. I was pretty lazy and didn't switch the belt positioning all that much on the old model, and so operated at a default slow speed to handle forstner bits.

Edward, I made a table for mine, as I really did need one. I also made a mobile base, which is safe and sound, and for added safety, I made up some 18 mm ply wall clamps, that clamp around the pillar.
When the wheels are locked and clamp tight, it really is solid.

I also added a Wixey laser, this has been a great addition, not only for quick line up but, also quick alignment of the table.
Once I’d lined my table up, I marked two reference points at the rear of the table. So whenever I move the table sideways, it takes seconds to return to dead centre.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #220 on:** August 01, 2019, 04:34 PM »

@Jiggy Joiner Question about the Laser you installed. When you move the table up/down do you have to calibrate the laser again?

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #221 on:** August 01, 2019, 04:48 PM »

Hi Mario, No it’s all good, it was a concern of mine when considering one but, it’s fine.
I mounted mine quite tight to the underside of the head of the machine so it’s always out of the way, and higher than anything mounted to the machine.

I’ll get some photos up over the weekend. A nice addition in my opinion.

Cheese · « **Reply #222 on:** August 01, 2019, 05:28 PM »

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on August 01, 2019, 03:37 PM

I also added a Wixey laser, this has been a great addition, not only for quick line up but, also quick alignment of the table.
Once I’d lined my table up, I marked two reference points at the rear of the table. So whenever I move the table sideways, it takes seconds to return to dead centre.

Like this @Jiggy Joiner ...?

The Wixey is a nice addition. I had a different laser originally and it literally fell apart after about 9 months.

Worse yet, if you changed the height of the table by more than 6-8" the centering would be off...Good Riddance. The Wixey works well.

rvieceli · « **Reply #223 on:** August 01, 2019, 05:44 PM »

@Cheese is there any way to mount the laser on the head instead of the column? My head can rotate on the column and I assume that would throw off the laser. Correct?

Thanks

Ron

Cheese · « **Reply #224 on:** August 01, 2019, 08:44 PM »

Quote from: rvieceli on August 01, 2019, 05:44 PM

@Cheese is there any way to mount the laser on the head instead of the column? My head can rotate on the column and I assume that would throw off the laser. Correct?

Hey Ron, @rvieceli the drill press head is usually secured to the drill press column through the use of cup point set screws. You really want the table to rotate and not the head.

Yes, the laser could be mounted directly to the head, but I'm not sure what benefit that would be. The Wixey laser has a very robust method of mounting the laser to the column...me likeeee.

rvieceli · « **Reply #225 on:** August 01, 2019, 09:21 PM »

@Cheese glad you said usually in that sentence.

Cause mine is an industrial bench press where the column is bolted to a t slotted cast base with a coolant trough around the edge that weighs about 250 to 275 pounds. The column passes through the head and the head goes up and down the column

.

That’s a pic when I first got it before it was cleaned up and I put the Mic6 table and fence on it.

Ron

Cheese · « **Reply #226 on:** August 01, 2019, 10:29 PM »

That's a keeper Ron

I'm not familiar with that drill press, who makes it? It's pretty impressive in that it's only 36" tall, and it weighs 250#. The coolant "production" table makes all the difference.

The other thing I like about production tables are the "T" slots that are machined into them to retain T-bolts that secure clamps and fixtures. Clamping down items with a 3/8" bolt is a lot more satisfying and reassuring than clamping down with a 1/4" bolt through a funky aluminum channel. Convenient it is...secure it is not.

I really think that there's a market here to configure a drill press table that will accommodate the metal working and wood working needs. The two venues are not that far separated from each other, they just lack a common language.

To put things into perspective, my 20" Delta is over 72" tall and weighs 400#. A 20" Clausing (a real drill press) on the other hand weighs over 1500#.

rvieceli · « **Reply #227 on:** August 01, 2019, 10:54 PM »

It is an Electro- Mechano 601J made in Milwaukee WI. Mine is from about 1963. It's a 16 inch press.

Gear driven on the low end and direct drive on the high end. 150 rpm to 1000 rpm gear driven, on the high side direct drive it's 400 to 4000 rpm continuously variable over both ranges. It's got a Reeves drive that's controlled by that handle at the top.

Company is still in business, they just don't make this model any more. I really like it. They don't come up for sale very often. E-M also made a 20 inch model as well. takes an MT2 taper and I've got an Albrecht on it now.

Ron

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #228 on:** August 02, 2019, 02:30 AM »

Quote from: Cheese on August 01, 2019, 05:28 PM

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on August 01, 2019, 03:37 PM
I also added a Wixey laser, this has been a great addition, not only for quick line up but, also quick alignment of the table.
Once I’d lined my table up, I marked two reference points at the rear of the table. So whenever I move the table sideways, it takes seconds to return to dead centre.

Like this @Jiggy Joiner ...?

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

The Wixey is a nice addition. I had a different laser originally and it literally fell apart after about 9 months. Worse yet, if you changed the height of the table by more than 6-8" the centering would be off...Good Riddance. The Wixey works well.

Exactly like that Cheese, great aren’t they?
The lines could be a little finer but, I’m not complaining and am very happy with it.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #229 on:** August 02, 2019, 11:39 AM »

When setting up my Wixey lasers maybe I didn’t have time or patience to get them perfect but my work height range was about 16” and the laser’s X wasn’t the same from top of range to bottom.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #230 on:** August 02, 2019, 12:48 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on August 02, 2019, 11:39 AM

When setting up my Wixey lasers maybe I didn’t have time or patience to get them perfect but my work height range was about 16” and the laser’s X wasn’t the same from top of range to bottom.

@Michael Kellough Micheal, do you mean in reference with the table? The table is not a good reference, cause it will shift left or right when raising/lowering it. The quill can also affect accuracy as it may not be parallel with the column. Also some columns are taper and again can also affect accuracy.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #231 on:** August 02, 2019, 02:11 PM »

My mobile base, it now has braces screwed down to further secure the machine. So I might build a cabinet to sit on the braces.

I made one side removable, to help get the machine mounted, and also easier removal. I stole the idea, I’m pretty sure from Sir Peter Parfitt

My table:
It’s worked out quite nice, I didn’t wrap it around the pillar, as It’s plenty big enough already, and it makes getting to the lock bolt, and hand wheel easier:

The hand wheel:

Handle folded:

It’s only cheap alloy, I will get a steel version soon.

Dust extraction port was made of mainly 6mm ply, and some plumbing fittings, it works very well:

Chuck guard, I couldn’t get on with it, and have since removed it.

This is the cable that goes to the guard sensor:

The Wixey laser:

Laser lines, to line up the table quickly:

Ply wall clamp, just under the laser body, this really holds the machine solid and safe, on the mobile base. Also somewhere for the chuck key, until the Albrecht turns up.

The underside of the new table, has hardwood guide keys glued and screwed for easy line up, and stability:

A couple of toggle clamps firm everything up, it really is a solid set up.
I just need my new chuck now to complete it.

JJ

rvieceli · « **Reply #232 on:** August 02, 2019, 02:50 PM »

Looks good Jiggy

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #233 on:** August 02, 2019, 04:21 PM »

Quote from: rvieceli on August 02, 2019, 02:50 PM

Looks good Jiggy

Thanks.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #234 on:** August 02, 2019, 05:51 PM »

Very nice @Jiggy Joiner. From the pictures I can tell you didn't use the extra plate on the laser right?

I'm almost done with the Kapex butterfly and next project is the DP table

Side note: You have to update your avatar.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #235 on:** August 03, 2019, 05:24 AM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on August 02, 2019, 05:51 PM

Very nice @Jiggy Joiner. From the pictures I can tell you didn't use the extra plate on the laser right?

I'm almost done with the Kapex butterfly and next project is the DP table

Side note: You have to update your avatar.

Thank you Mario, yes absolutely right, the extra plate wasn’t needed, it’s a very robust mounting system too.

You’re also right about the avatar too, I need an update, there’s new arrivals coming soon, so I’ll have options

Cheese · « **Reply #236 on:** August 03, 2019, 08:23 AM »

Nice base...nice table Jiggy.

Some storage would be nice on the base.

The blue tooth setup is convenient, I like that.

The chuck guard however, is the solution to a problem that never existed.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #237 on:** August 03, 2019, 09:23 AM »

@Mario Turcot I want intersection of the lasers to indicate the center axis of any bit I might put in the chuck regardless of where the table is (laterally). The benefit is drilling one off holes in big loose parts that aren’t suitable for a table with fences etc.

Once adjusted it works well, depending on your ability to interpolate which part of the fuzzy red lines is most indicative. Tip, it helps to put matte black tape over the target.

I did get it to work well at one table altitude but when I had to lower the table a foot the lasers were off and I could use fixtures for that operation so didn’t readjust.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #238 on:** August 03, 2019, 11:08 AM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on August 03, 2019, 09:23 AM

@Mario Turcot I want intersection of the lasers to indicate the center axis of any bit I might put in the chuck regardless of where the table is (laterally). The benefit is drilling one off holes in big loose parts that aren’t suitable for a table with fences etc.

Once adjusted it works well, depending on your ability to interpolate which part of the fuzzy red lines is most indicative. Tip, it helps to put matte black tape over the target.

I did get it to work well at one table altitude but when I had to lower the table a foot the lasers were off and I could use fixtures for that operation so didn’t readjust.

Thank you for the explanation Micheal. I see what you mean and was wondering about having to readjust the laser over and over. It was on rebate at BusyBeeTools and I drove there yesterday afternoon. That thing is solid and take 2.5 minutes to install and 1 minute to adjust

To me a laser is handy when you have to make a few holes. When it comes to production mode you better with a fence/jig setup for fast work.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #239 on:** August 03, 2019, 12:41 PM »

Quote from: Cheese on August 03, 2019, 08:23 AM

Nice base...nice table Jiggy. Some storage would be nice on the base.

The blue tooth setup is convenient, I like that.

The chuck guard however, is the solution to a problem that never existed.

Thanks Cheese, yes, I think I’ll have to add storage to the base, as my drill bits and other drilling accessories are not to hand at the moment, and It’s frustrating already.
I also agree about the guard, I think it lasted all of five minutes!