Author Topic: Nova Voyager Drill Press (Read 111911 times)

grbmds · « **Reply #180 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:11 PM »

Hope you guys have better experiences with the Nova control units that control the operation and speed of the tool. I own a Nova Comet II lathe that is a DVR lathe (in combination with a 3-pulley system). After 2 1/2 years the control unit just died (at least I'm hoping it's the control unit and not the motor). My only choice is to replace the control unit at my cost because the warranty is 2 years. The control unit looks like brand new inside, the fuse is good, and there is no evidence of any type of burn out from surges or other electrical problems. It just basically failed and, because the warranty was up, Nova won't even consider that the unit might have had a problem to begin with. I get it and they don't have to do anything because of the warranty, but it's a $160 part. They just basically didn't even consider circumstances and indicated that it was basically my fault because I didn't have a surge protector for the lathe. (I have no surge protectors in my shop and haven't had a single problem with any tool, electronic or otherwise, in 25 years.) Anyway, I have no faith in their electronics at this point. Hope the control unit in the drill press is a better one.

At the very least you may want to use a surge protector on the drill press or Nova may not stand behind the warranty. That's the indication from them even with a potential warranty issue.

Cheese · « **Reply #181 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:15 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 29, 2019, 12:38 PM

Question -- someone must sell a certified, straight rod to use for testing drill press runout. I want to run a test but want to make sure what I'm chucking up is absolutely straight.

Just go to the hardware store and purchase a 3/8” diameter dowel pin. They’re centerless ground and the diameter is within .0001”, or it may even be within .0005”. Grab one say 3” long, cost maybe $1.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #182 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:34 PM »

At McMaster

I doubt you need something this costly but it suits your request.

rvieceli · « **Reply #183 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:51 PM »

@ear3 Edward here are a couple from McMaster-Carr

1/2 x 6

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381A735

1/2 by 5

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381A734

Tolerances are from 0.0001 to 0.0003

Use it for the dial indicator and the with spacers to set your distance to the fence or stop. With the 1/2 inch rod chucked the quill center is always 1/4 inch from the outside edge of the rod.

So put a hole 1 inch from the edge, chuck the rod and put a 3/4 inch spacer between the fence and the rod.

There are also metric dowels if you use metric more.

Ron

ear3 · « **Reply #184 on:** July 29, 2019, 02:41 PM »

Thanks @rvieceli

Quote from: rvieceli on July 29, 2019, 01:51 PM

@ear3 Edward here are a couple from McMaster-Carr

1/2 x 6

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381A735

1/2 by 5

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98381A734

Tolerances are from 0.0001 to 0.0003

Use it for the dial indicator and the with spacers to set your distance to the fence or stop. With the 1/2 inch rod chucked the quill center is always 1/4 inch from the outside edge of the rod.

So put a hole 1 inch from the edge, chuck the rod and put a 3/4 inch spacer between the fence and the rod.

There are also metric dowels if you use metric more.

Ron

ear3 · « **Reply #185 on:** July 29, 2019, 02:42 PM »

Let me just add that I'm a bit surprised about the metal insert in the table that it sits so far below the surface. I guess I'll just make some of my own wooden ones that are fluesh to the table.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #186 on:** July 29, 2019, 03:02 PM »

I noticed that too Edward, and when you remove the screws, you will see the plate is very thin, making the use of wood or MDF difficult as it’s so thin.

I knew I was making a table so no problem but, it’s a good point you’ve made.

Cheese · « **Reply #187 on:** July 29, 2019, 03:23 PM »

Edward, here's how I roll...

A 1/2"Ø dowel pin, an indicator, a magnetic indicator base, a couple of steel parallels and a clamp.

Mount everything and place the indicator base on the parallels. Clamp the parallels down when everything's in position. Zero out the indicator.

Keep your hands and your body from touching the drill press table and slowly rotate the chuck. Result....0025" runout.

grbmds · « **Reply #188 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:04 PM »

Just an addition to my previous post and this is something you may already know. In the manual for the drill press, Nova states that a surge protected circuit must be used. They also state that GFI outlets may not be compatible with the variable speed motor.

I have never used surge protectors in my shop and, for the past 20+ years, nothing has ever failed except my Move lathe controller. I am going to use one in the future for that tool, but the others don't seem to require it.

Just cautioning you in case you don't already know Nova's requirements. They appear to hold rigidly to the issue of a surge protected outlet as they made a big deal of that to me.

rst · « **Reply #189 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:09 PM »

Years ago, I learned a poor man's method of squaring the table to the chuck. Bend a rod into a Z (not JZ), chuck one end rotating the chuck and observing where the opposite end of the rod touched and did not touch the table, shim the table accordingly. Pretty sure I learned this trick from a very old copy of Fine Woodworking (I had subscribed form their beginning, when they were still B&W, and the photography was more like art).

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #190 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:09 PM »

Question for the guys who know more about this stuff than me (a large group).
The dowel pin is rated for diameter tolerance but I think Ed was looking for straightness.
Both characteristics are important to test runout so which round piece of metal is most suitable for that?

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #191 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:18 PM »

Quote from: rst on July 29, 2019, 04:09 PM

Years ago, I learned a poor man's method of squaring the table to the chuck. Bend a rod into a Z (not JZ), chuck one end rotating the chuck and observing where the opposite end of the rod touched and did not touch the table, shim the table accordingly. Pretty sure I learned this trick from a very old copy of Fine Woodworking (I had subscribed form their beginning, when they were still B&W, and the photography was more like art).

A lazy L works too, bigger the better.

+1 on the early FWW but I bought it for the articles

The text was dense and aimed at professional woodworkers.
Although it was sometimes difficult for me to make sense of,
those puzzling details that stuck in my head became clear with experience.

hdv · « **Reply #192 on:** July 29, 2019, 04:25 PM »

The problem with the old coat hanger trick is that you are measuring two sources of error: is the table exactly perpendicular to the axis of the chuck, and does the chuck have no round out?

rvieceli · « **Reply #193 on:** July 29, 2019, 06:08 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on July 29, 2019, 04:09 PM

Question for the guys who know more about this stuff than me (a large group).
The dowel pin is rated for diameter tolerance but I think Ed was looking for straightness.
Both characteristics are important to test runout so which round piece of metal is most suitable for that?

Michael I am reasonably certain that these precision ground pins are straighter than I have the equipment and ability to measure

Ron

Cheese · « **Reply #194 on:** July 29, 2019, 06:09 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on July 29, 2019, 04:09 PM

The dowel pin is rated for diameter tolerance but I think Ed was looking for straightness.
Both characteristics are important to test runout so which round piece of metal is most suitable for that?

Michael, I don't know what the straightness specs are but by virtue of the functionality of the dowel pin, and the method in which it's manufactured, it'd have to be straight by (my guess) .0001" to .0005".

These are hardened slugs of metal so they're not going to bend at all. They're also center less ground to size so that makes the straightness issue a non-issue.

I checked Unbrako and their spec for a 1/2"Ø dowel pin is .5001-.5003" diameter. So 2 ten-thousandths of an inch. As an aside, Albrecht chucks are held to .0015" runout or 7.5 times greater.

Here's an Unbrako app for Mac's. They also offer one for Android.

https://apps.apple.com/ae/app/unbrako/id508313541

ear3 · « **Reply #195 on:** July 29, 2019, 07:05 PM »

Thanks for the setup pics @Cheese -- that's basically how I'm going to do mine, though with a dial indicator that's slightly lower class than Starrett

One other thing about the insert that I want to grip about. The mounting holes were not drilled along the exact diameter of the circle, such that the holes do not line up perfectly with the tapped holes of the table. The thing is, assuming the insert plate was installed by hand, the person doing it must have known this, because one of the mounting screws was still noticeably proud of the plate, as it could not be countrersunk all the way due to the misalignment. One of the hex head screws was also almost stripped, as if the person installing it labored to get it in.

I ended up filing the hole a bit wider and extending the countersink so that screw is now flush with the plate (and will have to get some new machine screws before the current ones strip completely). Not a detail that affects the overall function of the machine, but this seems like something even a rudimentary QC should have caught.

Quote from: Cheese on July 29, 2019, 03:23 PM

Edward, here's how I roll...

A 1/2"Ø dowel pin, an indicator, a magnetic indicator base, a couple of steel parallels and a clamp.

(Attachment Link)

Mount everything and place the indicator base on the parallels. Clamp the parallels down when everything's in position. Zero out the indicator.

(Attachment Link)

Keep your hands and your body from touching the drill press table and slowly rotate the chuck. Result....0025" runout.

(Attachment Link)

ear3 · « **Reply #196 on:** July 29, 2019, 07:47 PM »

It also says in the manual that you should not use a mobile base with it. Is that a function of the electronics sensitivity, because it otherwise doesn't seem to be more top heavy and unwieldy than my previous floor drill press?

Bob D. · « **Reply #197 on:** July 29, 2019, 08:05 PM »

McMaster-Carr sells drill rod by the foot.

Here's one example, about $6 plus any taxes and shipping.

https://www.mcmaster.com/8893k1

You may be able to find something closer, maybe even check
at your local machine shop and see if you can buy a short length
from them.

Cheese · « **Reply #198 on:** July 29, 2019, 08:27 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 29, 2019, 07:05 PM

One other thing about the insert that I want to gripe about. Not a detail that affects the overall function of the machine, but this seems like something even a rudimentary QC should have caught.

That’s unfortunate Edward, especially on a new piece of equipment.

It could be an opportunity however to make your own aluminum plate and make it flush with the table. Holesaw the inside diameter and jigsaw the outside diameter.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #199 on:** July 29, 2019, 08:43 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 29, 2019, 07:47 PM

It also says in the manual that you should not use a mobile base with it. Is that a function of the electronics sensitivity, because it otherwise doesn't seem to be more top heavy and unwieldy than my previous floor drill press?

That’s one I’d ignore. I do use a surge protector.

thudchkr · « **Reply #200 on:** July 29, 2019, 09:08 PM »

I use a surge arrestor because I have a DVR lathe in addition to the Voyager drill press. Where it gets more fun is when you want to run the unit on 220V, as I do for both units.

I ended up getting a surge arrestor that mounts in the breaker panel and protects both legs of power that way. Also means that all I had to do was plug it into my power outlet. (It helps when you have a separate breaker panel for the workshop.)

Another cool thing about the unit is that in order to run it on 220V, all you have to do is connect it to that power source. The unit automatically senses what power it’s connected to and operates the same regardless of the voltage from the power source. To keep things simple, I ended up just making a pigtail that plugs into my 220V outlet and has a female 110V outlet end. I just plug the Voyager’s 110V plug into the pigtail, and plug that into my 220V power source.

If I want/need to connect it to a 110V circuit instead, I need only unplug it from the pigtail and I’m good to go.

neilc · « **Reply #201 on:** July 29, 2019, 09:09 PM »

Edward

Do you not think you’ll make a full table with replaceable insert? I took the metal insert out of my table and just use the laminated top. I too found the metal insert was not seating the way it should.

Enjoy the DP. And check for software updates. As I said earlier you need a windows machine with a USB cable to update it. It will run under parallels on a Mac as an emulator for windows. But no native Mac updater is available.

Bob D. · « **Reply #202 on:** July 29, 2019, 10:32 PM »

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Can't be loaded onto a USB drive that you insert then boot from or access the update file from the setup menu on the DP.

That would seem to make a notebook or laptop the way to go. I wouldn't want to drag one of my desktop machines out in the shop just to update the DP software.

Mark Katz · « **Reply #203 on:** July 30, 2019, 05:09 AM »

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Well then, no Nova Voyager Drill Press for me. In our household we have 5 Macs of various flavors, 3 iPads of various vintages, 2 iPhones and a couple of Android phones. Damned if I'm going to buy a Windows machine (no matter how cheaply a basic one can be obtained) just for this one purpose. It's about time that they wrote an app for both IOS and Android that would do this one function.

It's not like the product just came out and they need a little extra time to get a phone app up and running.

Bob D. · « **Reply #204 on:** July 30, 2019, 06:55 AM »

Mark don't take my question as fact. I am asking if that is the case not stating that you need a windows computer to do the upgrades. While I am fairly sure that is what was said I'm asking for confirmation.

I agree that a smartphone app would be a lot easier for updating a machine such as this which is located in a spot not normally populated with a computer due to the dusty environment. And who has time for a computer anyway when you're doing something more important like working in the woodshop. :-)

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #205 on:** July 30, 2019, 09:54 AM »

Quote from: Mark Katz on July 30, 2019, 05:09 AM

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Well then, no Nova Voyager Drill Press for me. In our household we have 5 Macs of various flavors, 3 iPads of various vintages, 2 iPhones and a couple of Android phones. Damned if I'm going to buy a Windows machine (no matter how cheaply a basic one can be obtained) just for this one purpose. It's about time that they wrote an app for both IOS and Android that would do this one function.

It's not like the product just came out and they need a little extra time to get a phone app up and running.

I’ve been using Macs exclusively since the Mac SE but I bought an Asis notebook to activate the Voyager’s tapping feature.

Unfortunately the tapping feature only worked correctly about 10 percent of the time but when it did it was wonderful. Despite the disappointing unreliability of the tapping feature the other features allowed a fairly efficient workaround.

Between a keyless chuck (with wrench tightening option for reverse use) depth stop, forward/reverse, speed control (I think that’s all I used 2.5 years ago) I was able to drill and tap three dozen 1/2”-20 holes in 1-1/2” aluminum probably ten times faster than I could have with an ordinary drill press. Saved a lot more than the Asis notebook cost.

neilc · « **Reply #206 on:** July 30, 2019, 10:25 PM »

I use a Mac notebook running a windows emulator and windows SW. Parallels emulator is about $40 plus a basic version of windows which you can find from $20 to $100 online. Given the drill press is $1700, I would not let the price of software for a mac stop you from buying if that's what you have.

Given Voyager have only released a Windows updater, I would not hold my breath for a Mac, Andriod or IOS updater anytime soon.

It's a really nice drill press and I've found the SW updates worthwhile. But I use windows for other applications in CNC use as well.

Mark Katz · « **Reply #207 on:** July 31, 2019, 04:36 AM »

Okay, @neilc, I misread your earlier comment as the updater wouldn't run under Parallels on the Mac which is the opposite of what you said. I'd still have to bring a laptop out to do the updates but I guess that wouldn't be all that often.

Now I guess all I need to do is find a few square feet of floor space in my shop (easier said than done).

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #208 on:** July 31, 2019, 03:30 PM »

Well quite surprisingly, my chuck issue didn’t improve.
I was asked to pack the chuck well before returning it. I did just that including a 6mmply box I made up for shipping.

The supplier tells me Rohm have still not got back to him with any kind of report but, did view the videos I sent which clearly showed the issue as being the chuck.
So I have now asked for a refund, which the supplier has agreed too. He has been fine to deal with apart from a language barrier. Rohm however, I’m disappointed with.
I have bought many of their products, mainly chucks and arbors, and thought they were a bit better than how they’ve acted on this.

The good news is, I will now buy an Albrecht. Not sure whether to marry it up with the new Rohm arbor, or buy an Albrecht and have done with it?

Cheese · « **Reply #209 on:** July 31, 2019, 03:57 PM »

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on July 31, 2019, 03:30 PM

The good news is, I will now buy an Albrecht. Not sure whether to marry it up with the new Rohm arbor, or buy an Albrecht and have done with it?

That's too bad Jiggy

I've married mine up with both Albrecht and Jacobs arbors...both work well.