Author Topic: Nova Voyager Drill Press (Read 111913 times)

ear3 · « **Reply #150 on:** July 10, 2019, 01:34 PM »

Just sold my Ridgid drill press on Craigslist! Am going to place the order on the Nova pretty soon, once I figure out how to coordinate delivery.

neilc · « **Reply #151 on:** July 10, 2019, 04:10 PM »

I think you will really like it.

I just used mine for precisely drilling cup hinge holes for 8 cabinet doors. With an added table made from Woodpecker parts, the drill press makes it really easy. Love the automatic depth stop and the variable speed as I've never been that confident with turning a large Forstner bit too fast.

Check with your local Rockler as I got a mailer on floor models of various fixed base tools on sale including the Nova drill press here in Chicago. You might find one locally.

Also, check when you get it as there have been two software updates since I owned mine. You need a windows-based computer with USB to update the software, but the new features are nice!

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #152 on:** July 10, 2019, 04:26 PM »

Quote from: neilc on July 10, 2019, 04:10 PM

I think you will really like it.

Love the automatic depth stop and the variable speed as I've never been that confident with turning a large Forstner bit too fast.

Don't forget the zero setting for depth stop. At first I set my zero with the table. that;s after a few months I realized that the zero is a reference with the piece you want to bore. Easy and quick setting. Put your bit on and your board, while the drill speed is off drive down the quill until you touch the board. Hit the ZERO button. Release the quill and set your depth. For some reasons it took me a while to figure that one

Perhaps, reading the manual would have helped a bit.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #153 on:** July 10, 2019, 04:49 PM »

I have now put mine on a mobile base, if I have too move it, I lower the table to help with it being top heavy, and it is very easy to move around. I have small heavy duty castors that take 120kg each, swivel lockable. I made some wall clamps for safety too. When it’s locked down and clamped it’s solid as a rock.

Hopefully start making my table in the next few days too.
Had a surprising issue with the new Rohm chuck. I checked my machine’s spindle without chuck and arbor, and it was .005 half of a 1 thousandth of an inch. Then the Chinese arbor, .002, the Rohm arbor was around the same. Then mounted the Chinese stock chuck .005, then put the Rohm chuck on, tried with both arbors, and a disappointing .009
I have had Rohm chucks before always good, mainly Supra’s, this one is the better tolerance, more expensive Spiro.
I sent the supplier videos of the runout tests, and the chuck is on it’s way back to Rohm.
They can refund or replace, I want the chuck but one that doesn’t wobble

If not I guess I’ll shell out a little more for an Albrecht.
Amazing machine though, been using the depth stop a lot recently. I half expect the machine to talk to me when I switch on!

ear3 · « **Reply #154 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:01 PM »

Thanks for the tips.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #155 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:30 PM »

@ear3 Another tip, my Voyager came with a chuck guard, apparently the European version has to have one (EU regs). So the software update is different, and some have installed it by mistake, which means the machine will not start, as it thinks the guard is open. So just double check you have the right firmware.

I have actually removed my guard as it was annoying me, and I just leave the micro switch in the closed position.

ear3 · « **Reply #156 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:37 PM »

Thanks Jiggy!

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on July 10, 2019, 05:30 PM

@ear3 Another tip, my Voyager came with a chuck guard, apparently the European version has to have one (EU regs). So the software update is different, and some have installed it by mistake, which means the machine will not start, as it thinks the guard is open. So just double check you have the right firmware.

I have actually removed my guard as it was annoying me, and I just leave the micro switch in the closed position.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #157 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:45 PM »

You’re welcome, and I hope you enjoy the machine, I’m sure you will.

Bob D. · « **Reply #158 on:** July 10, 2019, 08:57 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 10, 2019, 01:34 PM

Just sold my Ridgid drill press on Craigslist! Am going to place the order on the Nova pretty soon, once I figure out how to coordinate delivery.

10 years ago when I bought my Unisaw Woodcraft delivered it to me in their truck with a lift gate. I have a pickup and a trailer but the lift gate made it very easy, they dropped right at the garage door. I think it cost me $50 for them to bring it the 25 miles to my house, and that included a bridge toll. From there I moved it into the shop and set it up on my own, including picking the saw up to set it in the mobile base.

If you don't have a pickup you can rent one with a lift gate I believe from U-haul for less than $50/day I would bet, or maybe whoever you are planning to purchase from can handle delivery as Woodcraft did for me.

ear3 · « **Reply #159 on:** July 21, 2019, 03:13 PM »

Just pulled the trigger on the Drill Press. Ordered direct from Acme tools, which does free delivery. I'll see if I can convince driver with a generous tip to help roll the unit down my 70 foot (fortunately flat) driveway to the front of my garage/shop, as opposed to just dropping it curbside.

I have my neighbor, who works UPS freight, on assist with muscle on the assembly.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #160 on:** July 21, 2019, 03:17 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 21, 2019, 03:13 PM

Just pulled the trigger on the Drill Press.

Congrats on your new toy

Assembly is very simple & having another set of hands help when it's time to put the head. Make sure to read the assembly steps

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #161 on:** July 21, 2019, 03:43 PM »

Yes as Mario says, easy assembly, the head unit is an awkward and quite heavy part. So just be aware, if you have help though, it’s very manageable.

I’ve nearly finished my table now, just got to make the fence. I went with a hand wheel for the rise and fall, works fine but the table needs to be lifted with one hand, whilst winding with the other, all ok though.

The mobile base arrangement works well, just need my replacement Rohm chuck now.

thudchkr · « **Reply #162 on:** July 24, 2019, 10:42 PM »

Just received my replacement chuck for my Voyager. After months of deliberation, I finally broke down and ordered an Albrecht chuck from McMaster Carr. I also purchased a MT2 to J33 arbor so I can use the other chuck on my wood lathes, or if I need the extra capacity, (the stock chuck will accept bits to 16mm), be able to pop it back into the Nova.

Swap out is seamless seeings how they provide the drift to remove the chuck.
The
I went ahead and chucked up a centering bit so I could put a dial indicator on it to check runout. I expected to see at least a little, but to my surprise, I measured none whatsoever with my instruments. The only way to show any movement on the dial indicator, was to push on the side of the chuck.

Runout wise, I got a winner. I’m looking forward toward the elimination of that chuck key, and with Albrecht’s reputation, don’t expect to see any drill bit slippage either.

Jiggly, if that replacement don’t work out for you, pony on up to the Albrecht. Definitely impressive.

neilc · « **Reply #163 on:** July 24, 2019, 11:00 PM »

I bought a used Albrecht on eBay - there are usually quite a few listed. I paid $95 for a 1/2" and just moved the tapered MT2 arbor over.

I've been very impressed with the difference in that and a china keyless knockoff I had purchased from Amazon. I didn't have a dial indicator but see no runout visually with a bit or rod in the chuck.

tdwilli1 · « **Reply #164 on:** July 25, 2019, 10:21 AM »

Which part number did you order? There are 3 different 1/2" on their site and they don't really describe the differences.

Quote from: thudchkr on July 24, 2019, 10:42 PM

Just received my replacement chuck for my Voyager. After months of deliberation, I finally broke down and ordered an Albrecht chuck from McMaster Carr. I also purchased a MT2 to J33 arbor so I can use the other chuck on my wood lathes, or if I need the extra capacity, (the stock chuck will accept bits to 16mm), be able to pop it back into to the Nova.

Swap out is seamless seeings how they provide the drift to remove the chuck.
The
I went ahead and chucked up a centering bit so I could put a dial indicator on it to check runout. I expected to see at least a little, but to my surprise, I measured none whatsoever with my instruments. The only way to show any movement on the dial indicator, was to push on the side of the chuck.

Runout wise, I got a winner. I’m looking forward toward the elimination of that chuck key, and with Albrecht’s reputation, don’t expect to see any drill bit slippage either.

Jiggly, if that replacement don’t work out for you, pony on up to the Albrecht. Definitely impressive.

thudchkr · « **Reply #165 on:** July 25, 2019, 06:24 PM »

I ordered model C130-J33, for 1/32” to 1/2” bit shank size, McMaster Carr # 2823A19. I’d researched which I wanted, so only needed to find the correct part number when I came here. I also ordered a MT2 to J33 arbor as well, McMaster Carr #2811A31 to match up with the Nova drill press.

Quote from: tdwilli1 on July 25, 2019, 10:21 AM

Which part number did you order? There are 3 different 1/2" on their site and they don't really describe the differences.

Quote from: thudchkr on July 24, 2019, 10:42 PM
Just received my replacement chuck for my Voyager. After months of deliberation, I finally broke down and ordered an Albrecht chuck from McMaster Carr. I also purchased a MT2 to J33 arbor so I can use the other chuck on my wood lathes, or if I need the extra capacity, (the stock chuck will accept bits to 16mm), be able to pop it back into the Nova.

Swap out is seamless seeings how they provide the drift to remove the chuck.
The
I went ahead and chucked up a centering bit so I could put a dial indicator on it to check runout. I expected to see at least a little, but to my surprise, I measured none whatsoever with my instruments. The only way to show any movement on the dial indicator, was to push on the side of the chuck.

Runout wise, I got a winner. I’m looking forward toward the elimination of that chuck key, and with Albrecht’s reputation, don’t expect to see any drill bit slippage either.

Jiggly, if that replacement don’t work out for you, pony on up to the Albrecht. Definitely impressive.

Cheese · « **Reply #166 on:** July 25, 2019, 10:33 PM »

I have 3 Albrecht’s that I swap between the drill press and the lathe. There is nothing better... guaranteed.

Zero runout and absolute clamping of the drill bits yield a great user experience.

After purchasing all 3 on eBay for a deal, I’d pay full list for one if it wasn’t available for a discount elsewhere.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #167 on:** July 26, 2019, 02:54 AM »

I’m having a bit of a saga at the moment with the chuck, the company where I bought it asked for it to be returned to Rohm. It’s been back there since the 18th, and the supplier keep apologising saying he’s waiting for a report, and that Rohm are slow to respond?

I’ve now asked for either a replacement or refund. The Spiro that I bought, which I think was £175 is supposed to be on par with a similar model Albrecht, obviously mine was not.
I’ve had the cheaper Rohm Supra’s in the past, and still have a couple but, they won’t fit the Voyager. They have been faultless, so I though the more expensive and better tolerance Spiro would be a good bet.

If it goes down the refund route, I will source an Albrecht.
The chucks seem to be the downfall of most non engineering drill presses, some of the machines are superb for woodworking but, let down with awful chucks.

I would of happily paid more for the Voyager with a decent chuck.

Cheese · « **Reply #168 on:** July 26, 2019, 09:07 AM »

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on July 26, 2019, 02:54 AM

The Spiro that I bought, which I think was £175 is supposed to be on par with a similar model Albrecht, obviously mine was not.

If it goes down the refund route, I will source an Albrecht.
The chucks seem to be the downfall of most non engineering drill presses, some of the machines are superb for woodworking but, let down with awful chucks.

I would of happily paid more for the Voyager with a decent chuck.

Hey Jiggy,
Rohm chucks are outstanding, the equivalent of an Albrecht. The only issue for us in the USA is that there aren't many in use and therefore there aren't many for resale. I hope you get yours squared away. It's frustrating to have a new drill press and not be able to use it.

My next drill press will probably be a Voyager or it's metal working cousin the Vulcan.

I purchased my Delta metal working drill press before eBay existed. So when it arrived and I noticed it had .015" runout when mated to its Chinese made chuck, I really had no other option than to purchase a Jacobs Super Ball Bearing chuck locally and pay full list price. That marriage dropped the runout to .002" which was fine for my uses.

During the financial meltdown a number of years ago, I noticed a bunch of Albrecht chucks on eBay that were almost "free" so that's when I started picking them up.

I'm also confused as to why Nova doesn't offer as an option, a good aftermarket drill chuck. Just make the chuck offering at cost and keep your customer base happy.

The only drill press manufacturers that offer optional quality aftermarket chucks are Clausing, Ellis & Flott.

tdwilli1 · « **Reply #169 on:** July 26, 2019, 09:50 AM »

Quote from: thudchkr on July 25, 2019, 06:24 PM

I ordered model C130-J33, for 1/32” to 1/2” bit shank size, McMaster Carr # 2823A19. I’d researched which I wanted, so only needed to find the correct part number when I came here. I also ordered a MT2 to J33 arbor as well, McMaster Carr #2811A31 to match up with the Nova drill press.

Thanks! Ordered them and will be here on Monday!

ear3 · « **Reply #170 on:** July 26, 2019, 12:50 PM »

Curious why one would order the chuck and the arbor separately, when there is an option on McMaster Carr for an Albrecht chuck with integral arbor?

Quote from: thudchkr on July 25, 2019, 06:24 PM

I ordered model C130-J33, for 1/32” to 1/2” bit shank size, McMaster Carr # 2823A19. I’d researched which I wanted, so only needed to find the correct part number when I came here. I also ordered a MT2 to J33 arbor as well, McMaster Carr #2811A31 to match up with the Nova drill press.

Quote from: tdwilli1 on July 25, 2019, 10:21 AM
Which part number did you order? There are 3 different 1/2" on their site and they don't really describe the differences.

Quote from: thudchkr on July 24, 2019, 10:42 PM
Just received my replacement chuck for my Voyager. After months of deliberation, I finally broke down and ordered an Albrecht chuck from McMaster Carr. I also purchased a MT2 to J33 arbor so I can use the other chuck on my wood lathes, or if I need the extra capacity, (the stock chuck will accept bits to 16mm), be able to pop it back into the Nova.

Swap out is seamless seeings how they provide the drift to remove the chuck.
The
I went ahead and chucked up a centering bit so I could put a dial indicator on it to check runout. I expected to see at least a little, but to my surprise, I measured none whatsoever with my instruments. The only way to show any movement on the dial indicator, was to push on the side of the chuck.

Runout wise, I got a winner. I’m looking forward toward the elimination of that chuck key, and with Albrecht’s reputation, don’t expect to see any drill bit slippage either.

Jiggly, if that replacement don’t work out for you, pony on up to the Albrecht. Definitely impressive.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #171 on:** July 26, 2019, 01:25 PM »

Not sure but perhaps the "integral" mean a permanent fixture?

Personally, I would go with an integral. Especially with a chuck with that quality & price.

ear3 · « **Reply #172 on:** July 26, 2019, 02:59 PM »

Yeah, something like the Albrecht CP130-2MT: https://www.mcmaster.com/albrecht-chucks

Also, why is it about the mechanics of drill chucks where the range seems to be either 1/32-1/2 or 1/8-5/8? Why not 1/32-5/8?

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #173 on:** July 26, 2019, 03:24 PM »

@ear3 not a machinist but I’m with you, seems like there would be less total runout with an integral arbor than a two piece set.

Chuck jaws that can grasp a 1/32” diameter drill need to be very narrow on the business side. That results in less grip area and may be insufficient for larger diameter bits.

ear3 · « **Reply #174 on:** July 26, 2019, 03:46 PM »

That makes sense -- I assumed there must be a reason like that.

I guess someone might buy an arborless chuck if they were switching it back and forth between machines with different arbors? My lathe has an MT2 arbor as well, so if I wanted to swap the chuck between the two, having the fixed arbor would not be an issue.

Quote from: Michael Kellough on July 26, 2019, 03:24 PM

@ear3 not a machinist but I’m with you, seems like there would be less total runout with an integral arbor than a two piece set.

Chuck jaws that can grasp a 1/32” diameter drill need to be very narrow on the business side. That results in less grip area and may be insufficient for larger diameter bits.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #175 on:** July 26, 2019, 04:01 PM »

@Cheese Thanks and thanks for the explanation, I must admit, I wondered why you guys didn’t mention Rohm much. So apart from Albrecht’s being superb chucks, I understand their popularity in the USA.

I must admit I’m kicking myself a little now, as I couldn’t decide between Albrecht and Rohm, and it was only the fact that I’ve had Rohm before without issue that swayed me.
Regarding the Vulcan, I think given your mix of woodworking and metalworking the Vulcan would be an excellent choice.

Cheese · « **Reply #176 on:** July 26, 2019, 04:34 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on July 26, 2019, 03:24 PM

@ear3 not a machinist but I’m with you, seems like there would be less total runout with an integral arbor than a two piece set.

Chuck jaws that can grasp a 1/32” diameter drill need to be very narrow on the business side. That results in less grip area and may be insufficient for larger diameter bits.

There is theoretically less runout with an integral arbor model. However Albrecht checks every drill chuck for runout and the max that is allowed is .04 mm (1 1/2 thousandths) so for probably 99% of all the jobs whatever you gain with an integral arbor doesn't make much difference.

I like the changeable arbor models because my lathe is a MT2 while the drill press is a MT3. I also have an extra tailstock that's an MT1.

It's the inherent locking jaw design that prevents the jaws from closing down to zero. The 1/2" model Albrecht is rated to hold 1.0-13 mm drill bits, but in actuality it will chuck up a drill bit that's only .6 mm in diameter.

ear3 · « **Reply #177 on:** July 29, 2019, 12:38 PM »

Delivered this morning, and am in the midst of setting it up.

Question -- someone must sell a certified, straight rod to use for testing drill press runout. I want to run a test but want to make sure what I'm chucking up is absolutely straight.

Bert Vanderveen · « **Reply #178 on:** July 29, 2019, 12:59 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on July 29, 2019, 12:38 PM

Delivered this morning, and am in the midst of setting it up.

Question -- someone must sell a certified, straight rod to use for testing drill press runout. I want to run a test but want to make sure what I'm chucking up is absolutely straight.

If you have a defective printer somewhere collecting dust, you are set: destroy it, but take care with the rods. Save one. They are made to quite exacting dimensions and will work fine in the chuck for your purpose. (Viz: Matthias Wandel).

hdv · « **Reply #179 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:02 PM »

I just used a piece of stainless steel axle that I had lying around. You might be surprised how straight axles are. To check I used a straight edge and a feeler. Any discrepancies were so small that they surely would not be of any significance for this purpose.