Author Topic: Nova Voyager Drill Press (Read 111916 times)

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #120 on:** June 18, 2019, 02:28 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on June 18, 2019, 01:05 PM

Quote from: Jiggy Joiner on June 18, 2019, 01:01 PM
@Mario Turcot You were absolutely right Mario, mine arrived this morning, what a piece of kit!

I’ve used many pillar drills over the years but, nothing like this, it really is like nothing else. I am going to put a keyless chuck on it, probably a Rohm.
Very pleased with it though, it’s amazing!

Congrats, now lets bore some holessssssss

The only thing I wish the Nova Voyager have is a square pillar to stabilize the center point. I'm wondering why today's drill press are not offering that feature.

Thanks Mario, I also agree about the centre points.
This has crossed my mind with other drill presses. Today, I used a laser level to centre everything, and made a few references points with a Sharpy.
I’m off to make more holes now

ear3 · « **Reply #121 on:** June 21, 2019, 07:05 AM »

Wondering if I could ask some dimensional questions from Nova owners, as I'm trying to figure out whether I can swap one out for the Ridgid drill press I currently operate in my shop. The specs on the machine for the base are 22 1/4” x 17 1/2″. Is that the total footprint for the rest of the machine? The pictures show that the motor doesn't project back past the column, unlike belt driven presses, so it seems like the base dimensions should define the outer limits for the body rest of the machine. My only worry is the handle on the right to raise and lower the table, which seems to stick out from the machine rather more than on my current press, and would therefore potentially knock into the workbench next to which it would stand. Anyone got measurements on how far past the base dimensions that handle swings out?

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #122 on:** June 21, 2019, 09:33 AM »

@ear3

All dimensions are aprox

Handle side view: The back of the base from the center 5", from the exterior pillar to the edge 2". Swivel protrude from the back 6" 3/4

Handle front view: The handle protrude from the center of the pillar 14".

Table side view: Base 23" x 18", table 16" 13 x 16" 12. The table protrude in front about 2"

Hope I answer all your questions, if not do not hesitate to ask specifics.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #123 on:** June 21, 2019, 12:57 PM »

I replaced my crank handle with a wheel. It might save an inch to the rear. Since it stays under the table it does not waste any space to the right.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #124 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:09 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on June 21, 2019, 12:57 PM

I replaced my crank handle with a wheel. It might save an inch to the rear. Since it stays under the table it does not waste any space to the right.

@Michael Kellough you have a picture to share?

My next shop project is to make a table for the Nova and I would like to see how you handle the handle

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #125 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:11 PM »

I’m going to make a table and fence for mine, I’m collecting some melamine ply tomorrow.
I picked up a hand wheel today too. I was thinking of leaving the stock crank handle on, and spacing the table higher instead.
As long as it’s firmly secured, I can’t see a problem. The hand wheel would look neater though.
How amazing are these machines? I have been getting used to mine yesterday and today, and really am fascinated by it.

sprior · « **Reply #126 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:14 PM »

I've been thinking of (but not doing) about a drill press table upgrade. Check out how they deal with the handles in this Woodsmith Shop video:

Those gears are expensive but available. I still haven't figured out where to get the extension rods and connection points.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #127 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:15 PM »

Jiggy, you played with the auto start yet? it's seriously

I had my sister to make me a blanket to cover it when not in use. I was even thinking of building a little bird house roof on top lol.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #128 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:16 PM »

@sprior

that is an awesome setup, thank you for sharing. And the crank is on the front

sprior · « **Reply #129 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:19 PM »

Yeah, I don't have the Voyager press, I'm thinking about doing this for my Delta benchtop press. The thing that's holding me back from buying the Voyager is the idea of the Vulcan - the concept of having some metal milling capability is REALLY compelling, but there are NO review videos showing that in actual use and the availability of the Vulcan is VERY limited so I'm also concerned that it's not a fully real product and could disappear without warning. I do have a Nova DVR XP wood lathe and I'm quite happy with it.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #130 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:47 PM »

Quote from: Mario Turcot on June 21, 2019, 02:15 PM

Jiggy, you played with the auto start yet? it's seriously

I had my sister to make me a blanket to cover it when not in use. I was even thinking of building a little bird house roof on top lol.

Hi Mario, Yes I’ve dabbled with it, very clever indeed, and safer in many aspects.
The bird house roof idea has given me the giggles!

@sprior That looks very neat and functional

rvieceli · « **Reply #131 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:59 PM »

I'd be tempted to fabricate an adapter that mated to the spot where the hand crank attaches and had a hex head bolt on the other end. Then just use an impact wrench or something to turn it.

sprior · « **Reply #132 on:** June 21, 2019, 03:00 PM »

If I started thinking about it too much I might attach a stepper motor and cheap controller to run it.

SRSemenza · « **Reply #133 on:** June 21, 2019, 03:01 PM »

I replaced the crank on mine first with a wheel, and then with a socket - extension - long handle flex head ratchet. The wheel was OK until I added a heavy table. The ratchet set up works well ..... plenty of leverage and no interference with wall or table.

Seth

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #134 on:** June 21, 2019, 03:16 PM »

@SRSemenza Hi Seth, yes i wondered how a wheel might be with a heavy table, the wheel I bought has a crank handle too, but still.

I can’t understand why more people don’t make a table that sits higher, to miss the crank. With a pillar drill there is plenty of room both up and down?

Bob D. · « **Reply #135 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:15 PM »

I'm thinking or a power drive, with a switch to raise/lower the table.

A reversible motor and the proper gearing is all it needs.

McMaster-Carr would be a good place to search for beveled gears,
bushings, bearings, and such. There are others, but McMaster comes
to mind right off.

https://www.mcmaster.com/bevel-gears

https://www.mcmaster.com/hand-wheels

https://www.mcmaster.com/rotary-electrical-actuators

A good source for linear actuators to use for projects is replacement recliner chair actuators. They come in various lengths and power requirements. Most are reversing which fits a lot of applications. And they are inexpensive, about $60 or less, you'll need to add a power supply for most but those can be had for $15 to $25.

sprior · « **Reply #136 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:35 PM »

This thread is taking a dangerous direction. We'll start off just having a motor with an up or down button, then someone will get a bright idea to have a digital position readout (in mm of course), then how about programmable positions, then all the money gets sucked out of the room. Oh I forgot, this a the Festool forum, no money left anyway

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #137 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:52 PM »

Quote from: sprior on June 21, 2019, 04:35 PM

This thread is taking a dangerous direction. We'll start off just having a motor with an up or down button, then someone will get a bright idea to have a digital position readout (in mm of course), then how about programmable positions, then all the money gets sucked out of the room. Oh I forgot, this a the Festool forum, no money left anyway

Next stop, elimination of the need to turn the quill crank.

Bob D. · « **Reply #138 on:** June 21, 2019, 06:25 PM »

OK, I can take a hint. I'll stop before the bank is broke. :-)

The NOVA Voyager is my next big tool purchase, later this year I suspect.

I've had the NOVA DVR lathe for about 8 years now and it's great.

ear3 · « **Reply #139 on:** June 22, 2019, 06:56 AM »

Thanks @Mario Turcot

Quote from: Mario Turcot on June 21, 2019, 09:33 AM

@ear3

All dimensions are aprox

Handle side view: The back of the base from the center 5", from the exterior pillar to the edge 2". Swivel protrude from the back 6" 3/4
(Attachment Link)

Handle front view: The handle protrude from the center of the pillar 14".
(Attachment Link)

Table side view: Base 23" x 18", table 16" 13 x 16" 12. The table protrude in front about 2"
(Attachment Link)

Hope I answer all your questions, if not do not hesitate to ask specifics.

ear3 · « **Reply #140 on:** June 22, 2019, 07:05 AM »

@SRSemenza Any pics? I might have to do something similar if I get this press in order to fit it in my space.

Quote from: SRSemenza on June 21, 2019, 03:01 PM

I replaced the crank on mine first with a wheel, and then with a socket - extension - long handle flex head ratchet. The wheel was OK until I added a heavy table. The ratchet set up works well ..... plenty of leverage and no interference with wall or table.

Seth

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #141 on:** June 22, 2019, 11:48 AM »

Not the best angle to judge space requirements or savings but it looks like it does not project to the rear any farther than the clamp arm that fixes table height and it obviously does not come close to the right side of the table.

The drill is in another shop across the Hudson so it’s not convenient at this time to get a better picture. I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

The laser is a Wixey device. It has to be adjusted to the height of the work surface (the top of the workpiece) but if you have a lot of work at that height it’s helpful.

SRSemenza · « **Reply #142 on:** June 22, 2019, 12:05 PM »

Quote from: ear3 on June 22, 2019, 07:05 AM

@SRSemenza Any pics? I might have to do something similar if I get this press in order to fit it in my space.

Quote from: SRSemenza on June 21, 2019, 03:01 PM
I replaced the crank on mine first with a wheel, and then with a socket - extension - long handle flex head ratchet. The wheel was OK until I added a heavy table. The ratchet set up works well ..... plenty of leverage and no interference with wall or table.

Seth

Nothing fancy.

I used a threaded rod connector to make the transition. In the case of this Delta press I drilled and tapped through the side ( the connector) for a set screw to tighten against the flat side of the drill press shaft. Others may be different. Then just added whatever socket / ratchet stuff I wanted.

Seth

Cheese · « **Reply #143 on:** June 22, 2019, 01:07 PM »

Quote from: Michael Kellough on June 22, 2019, 11:48 AM

I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

Michael, I have an older Delta drill press with a "production coolant table", add on a Woodpeckers top and a 40# Heinrich vise and even with the stock crank set-up it can be very difficult to raise. I find that by lifting up on the front edge of the table, even slightly, with one hand while then cranking with the other hand the process becomes much, much easier.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #144 on:** June 22, 2019, 01:49 PM »

Quote from: Cheese on June 22, 2019, 01:07 PM

Quote from: Michael Kellough on June 22, 2019, 11:48 AM

I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

Michael, I have an older Delta drill press with a "production coolant table", add on a Woodpeckers top and a 40# Heinrich vise and even with the stock crank set-up it can be very difficult to raise. I find that by lifting up on the front edge of the table, even slightly, with one hand while then cranking with the other hand the process becomes much, much easier.

Don’t think it would go up at all without lifting the front of the table. Also, might gouge the column.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #145 on:** June 22, 2019, 08:20 PM »

I think the wheel is easier to turn than the long crank, no extraneous lateral motion. But you do have to get farther around the side of the table to get to the wheel.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #146 on:** June 24, 2019, 02:01 PM »

@sprior

Quote from: sprior on June 21, 2019, 04:35 PM

This thread is taking a dangerous direction. We'll start off just having a motor with an up or down button, then someone will get a bright idea to have a digital position readout (in mm of course), then how about programmable positions, then all the money gets sucked out of the room. Oh I forgot, this a the Festool forum, no money left anyway

You asked for it

12v 1Ton lift

I let you deal with the digital readout

You can also use something like powerlift Desk with 4 programmable position.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #147 on:** June 28, 2019, 03:54 PM »

My Rohm Spiro chuck arrived today, the arbor is to follow.
I’ve owned a few Rohm chuck before, (Supra) and always been very happy with them. This time I dropped a bit more money on the Spiro, it’s built to a better tolerance. Feels very nice in the hand, just hope it’s as nice on the Voyager.

Will start making my table on Sunday hopefully, and possibly a mobile base, and an anchoring bracket for the column.
Really love this machine.

Mario Turcot · « **Reply #148 on:** June 28, 2019, 06:08 PM »

That's a nice chuck

You seriously consider a mobile base?

Any draft of your table yet? I watched a few dozen videos of people table and I'm not decided yet. I like that one from WoodSmith but there is so many.

Jiggy Joiner · « **Reply #149 on:** June 29, 2019, 03:28 AM »

Hi Mario, yeah it’s a real nice chuck, I’m considering a mobile base, only because the area where the press will probably live, is used mainly for stock storage, and it might mean the drill press would sometimes have to moved out of the way, and then replaced again. Just like being pulled out a few feet, then pushed back.
If I went with this, it would also have an anchor point on the column to hold it firmly in place.
Still undecided though, and may locate it elsewhere.

I think for the table, I’ll use 18mm melamine faced ply, bonded to standard 18mm ply. Then four T channels going front to rear, and one full width channel at the front.
And a fence with a flip stop, maybe two.

I’ll keep the measurements and post it up when done