Design advice is always most helpful prior to starting on the project. 

How is this table to be used?  Will it be in an entryway?  Behind a couch?  Is is not likely to be in the middle of the room.  What room?  How is that room furnished? Modern?  Farmhouse?  California Contemporary?

I have become disillusioned with gray anything.  I think it will be the next “bell bottom pants” fashion statement.  (“Oh, you wore bell bottoms.  How cute”.  “Oh, you painted your furniture gray.  How 2020s.”)

Without more information, all I can add now is “I personally do not favor gray.”

With more information, and preferably with a photo of the room it is destined for, you will get better feedback.

The construction looks first class.  Under gray paint, only you will know.  (Mothers don’t pay much attention to construction details.)

I would mention that with the narrow dimensions and the only shelf being near the top, the entire table will be top-heavy and easily upended.  If it goes against a wall, I would consider anchoring it to keep it stable.

Some images (even when you search for “gray painted” they try to steer you away with items that are not gray):  https://www.google.com/search?q=gray+painted+narrow+tables&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiOm-iBscaAAxWVJlkFHSy-C38Q2-cCegQIABAA&oq=gray+painted+narrow+tables&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoHCAAQigUQQzoFCAAQgAQ6BggAEAcQHjoGCAAQCBAeOgYIABAFEB46BwgAEBgQgARQ5A5YoDlg_TtoAHAAeACAAbwJiAHoE5IBCDIxLjEuNy0xmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&sclient=img&ei=Z7TOZM7LBZXN5NoPrPyu-Ac&bih=767&biw=1205&client=firefox-b-1-m

Yeah, @Packard, I should have been more clear. This is going under a wall mounted TV, against a wall.
Functionally, it's really only there to raise that TV modem/device off of the floor, somewhat hiding it in the process, and keeping you from walking too close to the TV.
The main size considerations are to basically match another table I built for her 10 years ago. That first one was designed to go behind a sofa, under a window. That was the reason for the specific height. It was later repurposed into the new room. It was also all Maple, stained and lacquered, though no pic of it that way, just raw.
I'm sure it will get something on top, but that not the main goal.
This is a case of "she's going to like it no matter what", but it needs to reflect the hand-built aspects of not looking like something from a store.
Personally, I am not a fan of the no-apron thing. I feel like it would sag over time, but in this application, probably not. It's going in an 80 year old lady's sitting room, so it's as much art is anything. Thus my conundrum.
They gray is just her style. Other than the Maple table, all of the others I have made for her have been painted. The first one started out as white, but she painted over that herself after a few years.
The other 2 started gray, though different shades.

I like the look of the through tenons, they remind me of through Dominos, which I think is one your trade marks?  Could you add some extra detail to the ends of the tenons, maybe a cross detail made with Dominos?
 
Regards
Bob

I don't know about trademark, but I have done it a few times. I especially like it for drawers. As far as doing something to the ends of the tenons, sure. I can do just about anything there. I made them with a Shaper Origin. My original intent was to chamfer them slightly, but adding something else could be a nice touch. Heck, they didn't even have to be square? but, I figured it was a bit of a waste to go too crazy with a painted project.

My opinions;

Flush tenons. Simple, clean designs don't require embellishment.

Taper legs to 1" instead of 3/4".  For example, the older maple table legs you pictured seem spindly to me and make the table look somewhat top-heavy.

I like gray stuff.

Nice work and thanks for all your contributions for our enjoyment.

Another opinion:

The whole thing seems a bit bland as it is, expect it to be even more so when stained, sooo:

 - as the "shelf" is "burried" from the front, it would be more consistent to have it "burried" also from the sides, using some embedded bolts etc. to attach it to the legs so it appears as if "floating" between them
 - keep the tenons proud, absolutely, but I would go even further and would not stain them, going for some good drying oil instead
 - would stain everything else still, so the wooden tenons will "stick out" visually (if she does not like it, you can always stain them later ..)
 - make the tenons and the top/shelf final finishing *before* the assembly of the whole thing, so they are not "stained in" but form an obvious attached component
 - I would round the tenon tops the same (small) dia as their side edges and the shelf below, would even consider rounding the "hole" for the tennons from the top, accenting them being a separate piece
 - (consider) giving the top sides and the shelf sides a slight "inside" curve at a big diameter so it is a bit narrower in the middle (say by 1/2") than at the front/back, that should give it a bit of a "flare" without over-doing it, or a variation thereof

Art is so much about emotion one cannot really "construct" it and so there is no "correct" way.

Last advice:
  Shoot for something "good, nice and with a feel to it" but avoid trying something "someone/her will surely like". A great piece may be loved or hated, and anything in between. But you can never make something people will love without giving it a feel, and a feel means you are always at a risk they may not like it. But no risk means not love. Just go by your feel, turning your professional mind off for a moment ..

/end musings

Painted, I could go either way with the tenons.  If you or your mother prefer them proud, I think it adds just enough interest to keep it from looking like a random piece of whatever from Target or Pier One.

Strength, consider what will happen to this 20-30 years down the road.  Will its next owner want to put a TV on it?  Will they want to just use it for knick-knacks as a sofa table?  I would keep aprons on it for long-term stability, since it's actual hard wood.

By the same token, if the tenons are proud, whoever gets it in the future can flush the tenons if if bugs them.

Painted, I could go either way with the tenons.  If you or your mother prefer them proud, I think it adds just enough interest to keep it from looking like a random piece of whatever from Target or Pier One.

Strength, consider what will happen to this 20-30 years down the road.  Will its next owner want to put a TV on it?  Will they want to just use it for knick-knacks as a sofa table?  I would keep aprons on it for long-term stability, since it's actual hard wood.

By the same token, if the tenons are proud, whoever gets it in the future can flush the tenons if if bugs them.

Did you catch the part where she is 80?  and I turned 60 2 weeks ago. I'm not even mildly concerned about it lasting 30 years. The next owner would theoretically be me and even though I'm not building it for me, I could/would use it someday.
The proud tenon idea was just that, to keep it from looking like some factory-made piece.
It's only 38" long....can you even but a TV that small nowadays? The lack of aprons is a specific design parameter, which kind of eliminates the potential for putting anything heavy on it.

@jeffinsgf I think you are right, the taper might be a bit too much. I thin I will expand it to 1".

Just for some perspective, absolutely not a design suggestion, I made this tv table in the style of something you might find fifty years ago in an upper middle class home in North Korea.



Made for artist David Howe’s satirical sculpture installation Kim Jong Un’s Christmas
Also made the nutcracker soldiers.

Personally not a fan of through tenons in a table top, but that is otherwise a lovely piece. Nicely done.

Yeah, there you go. Beautiful.

Those look very nice. Good job.

Ron

Turns out I can't paint over QSWO. I broke it all down to paint it in pieces, since I would never be able to get between those shelves. After all of the sanding, breaking the edges on the through-tenons, and bottoms of the legs, I just couldn't do it. I went searching through the cabinets for gray stain as the best compromise i could come up with. I would have rather done the steel wool in vinegar, but just don't have the time. I have put this off too long already.
Initially, after drying, it was more gray, the finish hid that a little and brought out the brown of the wood more. That made it darker overall too, so probably a better fit for the painted parts.
I used water-based Polycrylic on both the stained and painted parts so even out the sheen, which is very low. I'm just not a fan of shiny wood, unless it's a musical instrument.
If she wants it to shine more, wax can do the job, after it dries some more. It just got the last coat this morning and delivers tomorrow.
It's a good thing that I got off of work early yesterday, since I had to strip the paint back off of the top at the last minute. I tried spraying it with some rattle-can clear and the paint crazed in several places.
I don't know why though, same brand and it dried for 18-20 hours first. It wasn't everywhere either, which is confusing. I repainted it and used the Polycrylic the next day (today)
The pics aren't the greatest, since they are at the shop. I'll get some better ones when it's in place, and the Maple one too.

Great job!  Really came together nicely.