Author Topic: Project Plans (Read 179481 times)

Matthew Schenker · « **on:** January 24, 2009, 08:58 AM »

Good Morning,
Yesterday, I was browsing through all the great projects posted here in the FOG. It's amazing, not only how much work members have put into their projects, but also how much effort goes into documenting projects with text and photographs.

But there's one more element we'd love to see -- project plans.

I decided to create this discussion, as a place for people to post their project plans. Here's my idea...

If you have posted a project, please add a post here with your technical drawings, handwritten sketches, or other plans.

Doing this will help projects be shared even better with other members. By posting all the plans in this discussion, we can have an easy way for other members to see a full listing. We can also provide links to the actual projects.

My image is that, with time, this could become a virtual "plan book" of sorts.

So, post your project plans here!

Thanks,
Matthew

Ken S · « **Reply #1 on:** January 25, 2009, 08:23 AM »

Great idea. Having a scanner would help.

Most posted projects by FOG Members are well documented including pictures.

Adding a "Cut List" would help.
Don't know if that is asking too much.

Matthew Schenker · « **Reply #2 on:** January 25, 2009, 08:42 AM »

Quote from: Ken S on January 25, 2009, 08:23 AM

Great idea. Having a scanner would help.

Most posted projects by FOG Members are well documented including pictures.

Adding a "Cut List" would help.
Don't know if that is asking too much.

Yes, I realize there are varying levels of technology in member shops! If people have the option of scanning plans, that's great. If they are handwritten plans, that works (actually, I think it's nice to see handwritten plans). If you use some kind of software that outputs your plans, that's great too.

Of course, some of us are able to work without plans! In those cases, posting cut lists would be great help. Again, they can be hand-sketched or done with software.

Thanks,
Matthew

tDot · « **Reply #3 on:** November 25, 2009, 01:25 AM »

So how would someone go about posting plans and cutlists that are drawn on a piece of wood?

Dave Ronyak · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2009, 11:34 AM »

By posting photograph(s) of those pieces of wood! And the completed project and of various stages of completion of the project and its components together with dimensions and other words describing them.

Dave R.

-woodsman- · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2010, 06:16 PM »

These are two post and beam arbors I'm building in Boston (yaay boston). I never drew a complete detail of the purlins but Ill include a pic. The top of the last purlin on ether side of the structures is flush with the top of the header so the detail dies into the plane of the header. Each purlin is beveled leaving a 2x2 square on the end of it. The length of the bevel is reduced by the same # as does the height. This creates a secondary elips of sorts on the underside of them. The larger one is over the driveway and the smaller one is over the walkway. His house is on a main st. with a hospital 1 block away and its very noisy. The ideas is that once the vines have established themselves it will help deaden the sound of the road.

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2010, 04:28 PM »

Hey guys,

Would love to scan some plans and photos, but I'm sorely lacking in the tech dept. A little help?

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2010, 06:14 PM »

Finally figured out how to post some pictures (I hope). This was a closet that my client was using for crafts and wanted it to be a little less cluttered.

Peter Halle · « **Reply #8 on:** January 24, 2010, 06:42 PM »

You did great with the pictures! Like your work in the photos also. Tough to design for the end wall and make it useful.

Keep going.

Peter

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2010, 09:42 AM »

Peter, Joe,

Thanks for the compliments. The most difficult aspect was trying to cram as much usable storage as I could into such a confined space. Peter nailed it by mentioning the end wall. The first plan was to have rollouts in the bookshelf to make some of her items easier to get to, but was nixed since she still would have had to reach down into a narrow area to reach and the rollouts would not have much room to come out anyway. I'm glad we ended up using adjustable shelves, since the homeowner removed the bottom shelf and uses it to store large rolls of craft paper and other larger items.

I'm particularly proud of this one for a couple of reasons: 1) It was my first job using my TS55, and 2) this was quite literally the first job I ever sold/designed/installed as an owner/operator after being laid off. Still getting used to being self-employed, but I don't think I want to work for someone ever again...

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2010, 09:45 AM »

Quote from: -woodsman- on January 10, 2010, 06:16 PM

These are two post and beam arbors I'm building in Boston (yaay boston). I never drew a complete detail of the purlins but Ill include a pic. The top of the last purlin on ether side of the structures is flush with the top of the header so the detail dies into the plane of the header. Each purlin is beveled leaving a 2x2 square on the end of it. The length of the bevel is reduced by the same # as does the height. This creates a secondary elips of sorts on the underside of them. The larger one is over the driveway and the smaller one is over the walkway. His house is on a main st. with a hospital 1 block away and its very noisy. The ideas is that once the vines have established themselves it will help deaden the sound of the road.

Your work looks great! Any photos of the finished product yet? How many guys did it take to install?

Lived in MA for a few years and did a lot of work in Newton/Wellesly/Brookline area as a cabinetmaker. I almost miss it.

Tom Bellemare · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2010, 10:49 AM »

I like the Festool green drawer pulls...

Tom

NVA_WW · « **Reply #12 on:** March 21, 2010, 08:28 PM »

Jonhilgen - what type of slide did you use for the pullout table? It doesn't look like your typical slide. I'm in the process if building my wife's craft room and I know she would like a similar pullout.

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #13 on:** March 22, 2010, 07:23 AM »

NVA_VW

I ordered it from Hafele. Item # 505.58.703.

Cost was 262.02 including shipping.

Jon

busybeaver · « **Reply #14 on:** March 27, 2010, 03:20 PM »

One idea for an inexpensive solution to getting from hardcopy(i.e. pencil/pen & paper) to digital -- use a digital camera, carefully.

Though it takes some practice, a digital camera is a considerably more practical solution these days than a scanner for most individuals.
If you use that in combination with a tripod, and a little ingenuity, you should end up with a practical alternative to a scanner.

Take a look through some how to photography websites and/or books for more details.

NVA_WW · « **Reply #15 on:** March 27, 2010, 03:41 PM »

Jon - did you also use MDF for this project? I really enjoy your work--great looks and extremely practical!

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #16 on:** March 27, 2010, 06:27 PM »

Quote from: NVA_WW on March 27, 2010, 03:41 PM

Jon - did you also use MDF for this project? I really enjoy your work--great looks and extremely practical!

Yeah, once again, MDF.

My next job I'm actually going to use paint grade maple for the bookshelves. I'm moving up in the world! Going to start cutting it up Monday (right on time for my QWAS cross cutting jig arriving Monday)

Thanks for the compliment NVA_WW.

asmang · « **Reply #17 on:** May 18, 2010, 10:20 AM »

It would also be great if anyone wants to post Google Sketchup files. If you haven't used Sketchup, I highly recommend it. It's full 3d CAD... for free! Lots of support out there and there's even a plugin called Cutlist that will automatically create cutlists based on the drawing.

Sketchup can be downloaded from Google at http://sketchup.google.com.

Greg

-woodsman- · « **Reply #18 on:** August 01, 2010, 07:35 PM »

Quote from: Jonhilgen on January 25, 2010, 09:45 AM

Quote from: -woodsman- on January 10, 2010, 06:16 PM
These are two post and beam arbors I'm building in Boston (yaay boston). I never drew a complete detail of the purlins but Ill include a pic. The top of the last purlin on ether side of the structures is flush with the top of the header so the detail dies into the plane of the header. Each purlin is beveled leaving a 2x2 square on the end of it. The length of the bevel is reduced by the same # as does the height. This creates a secondary elips of sorts on the underside of them. The larger one is over the driveway and the smaller one is over the walkway. His house is on a main st. with a hospital 1 block away and its very noisy. The ideas is that once the vines have established themselves it will help deaden the sound of the road.

Your work looks great! Any photos of the finished product yet? How many guys did it take to install?

Lived in MA for a few years and did a lot of work in Newton/Wellesly/Brookline area as a cabinetmaker. I almost miss it.

Thanks Jonhilgen, Not done yet. Many problems. Permiting and mildew

to name a few. I expect I should only need 10 or 12 people to fool safe, but I'm hoping for a hundred. The zoning board has given me such a hard time I want to call all the local news stations and make a big show of it. Its a organic hand made arbor what's the big deal. anyway check out the pictures on the Member Projects page.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/post-and-beam-arbors/msg87652/#msg87652
They made me do renderings and we still don't have the permit yet. It will go up it will go up it will go up, thats my mantra. Fall would be nice, good working weather. Although there are black walnuts that are ripe and lethal around then. Maybe some FOG hard hats would do the trick.
How do you like in S.C.? I was there once and found it very pleasant.

Jon Hilgenberg · « **Reply #19 on:** August 03, 2010, 07:11 PM »

Woodsman,

Love it down here (but it's a bit hot in winters), but miss the family terribly. Thinking of heading back up North since grandchildren will be on the way shortly. Just need to find work first (and a house, and trade in my truck for something with 4x4...)

Jon

-woodsman- · « **Reply #20 on:** August 03, 2010, 08:18 PM »

Quote from: Jonhilgen on August 03, 2010, 07:11 PM

Woodsman,

Love it down here (but it's a bit hot in winters), but miss the family terribly. Thinking of heading back up North since grandchildren will be on the way shortly. Just need to find work first (and a house, and trade in my truck for something with 4x4...)

Jon

If you find december to balmy down there come on up. Things are pick'n up a bit. WHo knows what winter will bring.

nugene · « **Reply #21 on:** August 22, 2010, 11:47 AM »

I would like to see Festool come up with a plan for a workbench to support and be used with the Kapex. I must be the only one that is looking for a design for this tool.

Peter Halle · « **Reply #22 on:** August 22, 2010, 12:54 PM »

Nugene,

First,

to the forum. If you are looking for a stand for the kapex, there is a smaller MFT designed to hold the Kapex. Festool also has extension arms that fit the Kapex, and has recently introduced in the rest of the world a new rolling stand for the Kapex and new extensions.

Are you talking about something different?

Peter

nugene · « **Reply #23 on:** August 22, 2010, 10:35 PM »

Peter, What I had in mind was a wooden workbench with an extension on the left side and right side that allowed you to cut trim to length. This would have stops that adjusted to the size you wished to cut. Like they use in a framing shop. The saw base would be recessed in the table so that the cutting area is even with the extension. Hope I explained myself. I've seen the Kapex table and that is not what I am looking for.

Peter Halle · « **Reply #24 on:** August 22, 2010, 10:50 PM »

Nugene,

Gary Katz, who travels around with his Kapex uses a folding metal stand and extension wings that were self built. Here is a link to his drawing: Gary Katz Extension Wings

The brackets he uses are no longer available, but modifications can be made.

Peter

nugene · « **Reply #25 on:** August 24, 2010, 09:41 AM »

and merci too.

Top Knot · « **Reply #26 on:** December 13, 2010, 05:36 PM »

Hi all
When I design or layout a unit I always use a program called "Design Workshop" (I say always coz I have been using it for coming close to ten years now

). You should hopefuly see two pictures below the first is a "print out" from the design program that I used to design the unit. I also use this as a conceptual drawing to "sell" what I can offer the client . The second photo is a photo I actually took today of the complete installed unit.

The Final Design as done on Design Workshop

A Photo taken of the final product

For those interested in downloading this program and its tutorial for FREE. Yes... its a working sample of the program that you can download for nothing! Do an internet search for Artifice free download. It took me when I first started with this program, about 2 hours to "build" a house with doors and windows a pitched roof with chimney also a porch and handraing with steps leading up tho the porch. From what I understand it works much the same as Google Sketch, (although I have never used GS myself...) The only limitation on the free program is you cannot save a file that has more than 100 objects... I have a rather laborious process around this limitation, should you you wish to know feel free to message me...

till later
Graham

Greg Powers · « **Reply #27 on:** December 13, 2010, 08:00 PM »

Is "Design Workshop" easer to use the Google's sketch up?

RonWen · « **Reply #28 on:** December 13, 2010, 10:34 PM »

Very nice Graham!

Top Knot · « **Reply #29 on:** December 14, 2010, 02:15 AM »

Quote from: GPowers on December 13, 2010, 08:00 PM

Is thes easer to use the Google's sketch up?

As I have never used Google Sketch Up I cannot give an accurate answer to that question. I have however tried to use another program called Solid Edge I have also tried to use Auto CAD. If I had put more time and effort into the latter two programs I may very well have got them down pat, I suppose I didn't because I just like the simplicity of Design Workshop. You can choose to build an object in 2D or in 3D in color or in a "wire-frame" all in all I find it quite simple. From what other people have told me about GS I understand the two programs work in a very similar fashion so you should pick up DW quite quickly if you have been using GS. But do not expect to master the program in two hours. you will have to go through hours of tutorials.

Here's a few more examples that show what I have used the program for in the past:

The concept drawing I showed the client

A photo I took of the completed Job

The concept

A photo taken during instalation

These pics below show where Design Workshop is lacking in a big way... everything related to curvatures, sweeps, archs etc you have to make them all blocky. I used these pics to help me visualize all of what had to be done in the making of the curved handrailing. What is very nice about the program is the ability to almost be able to "hold the item in your hands" and look at it from any which way angle of your choice. you can walk through rooms walk through walls

zoom in and out.

Top Knot · « **Reply #30 on:** January 11, 2011, 03:05 AM »

So I am about to hand a quotation in for an Oak TV unit. Its a monster Plasma TV. The client is looking to have something more old fashioned as opposed to most modern day flat screen units. The client wants a similar finish to that of my curved handrailing found in the members projects. Below is a design I have come up with and I am interested to hear all of your comments and suggestions.
Thanks
Graham

GhostFist · « **Reply #31 on:** January 11, 2011, 08:13 AM »

I really like the look of this. I've been leaning towards more contemporary design of late but this is very reminiscent of a classic movie theatre and I love that.

GhostFist · « **Reply #32 on:** January 11, 2011, 08:21 AM »

Couple of questions, What are the proposed dimensions? How big is the tv, speaker units and all that? Will the receiver be on display or hidden in the cabinetry? The columns on either side of the tv, is something going in there, such as equipment or discs?

Personally I'd like to hide as much as possible of the equipment leaving only the bare minimum exposed, not sure hot this works with remote controls and the like but ideally I'd like to only see the screen surrounded by woodwork. keep in mind I also have a tendency to vastly over complicate projects so go with what works this still looks nice in my books

Top Knot · « **Reply #33 on:** January 11, 2011, 09:01 AM »

Quote from: GhostFist on January 11, 2011, 08:13 AM

I really like the look of this. I've been leaning towards more contemporary design of late but this is very reminiscent of a classic movie theatre and I love that.

AWESOME!! So it seems like I am on the right track.

The overall dimensions are 2000 by 2000
the TV is 1220 by 770
each doors is 300 wide by 335 high
The doors will be a "partial inlay" fit to the face frame.
The speakers will be mounted in the two cupboards either side of the TV, I then plan to cover these two cupboards, just behind the face frame, with a another frame wrapped with normal speaker fabric. this will make the entire opening look like a custom made speaker. I may need to adjust the height of these two cupboards and add a shelf if it looks too big and ugly... if you know what I mean.
All the DVD, Satalite decoder, sound etc etc will be inside the cupboards below. The remote control will not be a problem as it is not infra-red. Everything... and I'm not kidding when I say everything... is networked with a single wireless remote that controls ALL the TV's in the house. All the speakers scattered in different places can be controlled individually too... The whole unit will be standing on casters. This will allow for easy installation of all the components and the major mess of wires that connects the lot. All this is done while the unit is away from the wall. When finished it gets wheeled back to fit snug against the wall and skirting.

GhostFist · « **Reply #34 on:** January 11, 2011, 06:00 PM »

Right arm! I'd like to see pics of this project as it goes along, if you don't mind. Eager to see it in "action"

maxpower10 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 03, 2011, 11:06 PM »

I totally agree!

Top Knot · « **Reply #36 on:** February 10, 2011, 02:36 PM »

Sorry for being so scarce of late, our telecoms service provider seems to diligently stick to "African Time!!"

Quote from: GhostFist on January 11, 2011, 06:00 PM

Right arm! I'd like to see pics of this project as it goes along, if you don't mind. Eager to see it in "action"

so this project got the go ahead, I have been working on the unit for a couple of weeks now and it is nearing completion. I will be posting the build pics in the Projects section soon for your pleasure.
Till then...

Top Knot · « **Reply #37 on:** March 14, 2011, 03:17 PM »

So I have been asked to make a table just like the one in the pic below out of wood... I am assuming they want me to make it out of wood because this one is either painted and they cannot get it as a wood finish or because this particular one is made from welded steel...
Obviously the Domino joining system comes to mind... how do you guys think the joints will hold up if made with Domino's???

jmbfestool · « **Reply #38 on:** March 14, 2011, 04:36 PM »

Looking at it and how sallow the angle of the legs are I don't think wood can hold.

Jmb

Top Knot · « **Reply #39 on:** March 14, 2011, 05:12 PM »

Quote from: jmbfestool on March 14, 2011, 04:36 PM

Looking at it and how sallow the angle of the legs are I don't think wood can hold.

Jmb

Not what I want to hear...

windmill man · « **Reply #40 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:14 PM »

Think you could get it to work but wont be the most robust piece of furniture. Can see the advantages of steel here.

Guy Ashley · « **Reply #41 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:22 PM »

Graham

Just a thought, it may be possible if you could bore out a 12mm hole and insert a length of stainless steel rod which could somehow be mounted to a bracket on the base of the table and could be hidden by the top of the legs.

If I had skills with Sketchup I would draw something.

The load bearing would be taken by the rod then.

jmbfestool · « **Reply #42 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:27 PM »

Quote from: Guy Ashley on March 14, 2011, 06:22 PM

Graham

Just a thought, it may be possible if you could bore out a 12mm hole and insert a length of stainless steel rod which could somehow be mounted to a bracket on the base of the table and could be hidden by the top of the legs.

If I had skills with Sketchup I would draw something.

The load bearing would be taken by the rod then.

How would you bore the 12mm hole through the legs straight? Them legs don't look short. I'm only asking not saying it's a bad idea.

Jmb

Guy Ashley · « **Reply #43 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:31 PM »

With a jig on a floor mounted bench drill. The jig would hold it at the angle required and a long bit used.

Workshop stuff JMB, workshop stuff!!!

windmill man · « **Reply #44 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:35 PM »

JMB,

Cut over length. mount on a lath and end bore them, via the tailstock. Its how you bore a turned standard lamp. Or split the section route out a groove on both bits and re laminate

John

windmill man · « **Reply #45 on:** March 14, 2011, 06:55 PM »

Think the top is frosted glass.

jmbfestool · « **Reply #46 on:** March 14, 2011, 07:03 PM »

Quote from: windmill man on March 14, 2011, 06:55 PM

Think the top is frosted glass.

Oh!

Well you would only need a plate big enough to fixl all 4 legs to the and then stick the frosted glass to the plate.

Jmb

Top Knot · « **Reply #47 on:** March 15, 2011, 02:11 AM »

I think you guys are onto the right idea of hollow legs with steel inserts... something that I had definitely not though of... Fortunately for me I know how to weld... I grew up on a farm and metal work was what I did before I started with carpentry... so it looks like I can do the lot on my own...

Quote from: jmbfestool on March 14, 2011, 06:52 PM

I forget about jigs lol cus they take time and don't always have the time to make jigs so always think alternative options ie a tool which can do it with no jig.
Jmb

Hey JMB did you hear about the lumber Jack who did not have time to sharpen his axe??? He was too busy cutting down trees...

ART at WORK · « **Reply #48 on:** March 18, 2012, 08:49 AM »

Did you hear about the lumber Jack who did not have time to sharpen his axe??? He was too busy cutting down trees...

[/quote]

I like that one, will try to remember it for the right moment of Wisdom

CarolinaNomad · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2013, 10:13 AM »

Pressure Treated Deck using google sketchup

3d-Rendering-deck1.pdf (724.58 kB - downloaded 812 times.)

howwe · « **Reply #50 on:** February 13, 2013, 09:16 AM »

Top Knot, those legs look like they have a twist in them, they don't look straight!

Archemedia · « **Reply #51 on:** March 10, 2014, 09:52 AM »

I think this is a great idea! But... suppose this thread is a huge success and hundreds of plans are posted... how you'll find the one you like? Shouldn't it be better to have a seperate forum in here where every thread is a project plan? Maybe the moderator could comment on this?
Dany

Colonel Panic · « **Reply #52 on:** July 22, 2014, 12:41 PM »

Quote from: Archemedia on March 10, 2014, 09:52 AM

I think this is a great idea! But... suppose this thread is a huge success and hundreds of plans are posted... how you'll find the one you like? Shouldn't it be better to have a seperate forum in here where every thread is a project plan? Maybe the moderator could comment on this?
Dany

I agree. This should be a separate Topic with individual threads for each plan. Shane to the white courtesy phone.

fdengel · « **Reply #53 on:** July 24, 2014, 11:34 AM »

Quote from: Guy Ashley on March 14, 2011, 06:22 PM

Just a thought, it may be possible if you could bore out a 12mm hole and insert a length of stainless steel rod which could somehow be mounted to a bracket on the base of the table and could be hidden by the top of the legs.

Metal dominos?

SittingElf · « **Reply #54 on:** July 24, 2014, 11:43 AM »

Quote from: Archemedia on March 10, 2014, 09:52 AM

I think this is a great idea! But... suppose this thread is a huge success and hundreds of plans are posted... how you'll find the one you like? Shouldn't it be better to have a seperate forum in here where every thread is a project plan? Maybe the moderator could comment on this?
Dany

+1 on this idea. I was going to post exactly the same suggestion as I made my way through the thread, but Dany beat me to it.

Now all I can do is second his suggestion. PLEASE? Pretty Please?!

Cheers,

Frank

Gene Davis · « **Reply #55 on:** October 05, 2014, 08:50 AM »

I do mine in Sketchup and put them up on the 3D Warehouse. Any Sketchup user can access and use. Some have more joinery detail than others.

A bow-arm Morris chair is up there with all its Domino joinery detailed. I did a study of Ron Paulk's plywood takedown bench last night, shown here.

The Stickley "Highlands" trestle table operates with equalizer slides available from Moin Hardware for about $350, really nice. The pub table is from a catalog of Simply Amish furniture.

Sertfas · « **Reply #56 on:** October 18, 2014, 03:08 PM »

This is a small built in shelving unit with the trim made to match the existing chair rail in the room.

I really don't want to mill it custom, but if I can't find it that may be the only option.

Now just waiting on some green boxes to arrive to get started on it.

eitzert · « **Reply #57 on:** January 28, 2015, 05:42 AM »

Yes. you are right.
Thats why I will do that for my projects in a special download-area on my site.

Renttis · « **Reply #58 on:** February 28, 2015, 12:18 AM »

A page from my sketch pad. The project is ongoing and a photo may be seen in the post, "Custom Railing".

Gene Davis · « **Reply #59 on:** February 28, 2015, 09:02 AM »

Something I did using Sketchup, just for interest. I've no plans to build it.

Would be a pretty easy project, all domino joinery. Dados and stopped dados in the stiles and rails for the 1/4 inch panels, mirrors in the top three central panels. Would look good in something like rift red oak, or done in soft maple with MDF in the panels, for a painted job.

About 32 wide by 6 feet tall. Up on the 3D Warehouse, search "hall coat tree bench."

Renttis · « **Reply #60 on:** March 27, 2015, 04:39 AM »

The sketch my client approved and the (almost) completed piece.

RENO · « **Reply #61 on:** September 09, 2015, 03:04 PM »

very nice!

ScottGrimmRestoration · « **Reply #62 on:** November 29, 2015, 01:11 PM »

Quote from: Matthew Schenker on January 24, 2009, 08:58 AM

Good Morning,
Yesterday, I was browsing through all the great projects posted here in the FOG. It's amazing, not only how much work members have put into their projects, but also how much effort goes into documenting projects with text and photographs.

But there's one more element we'd love to see -- project plans.

I decided to create this discussion, as a place for people to post their project plans. Here's my idea...

If you have posted a project, please add a post here with your technical drawings, handwritten sketches, or other plans.

Doing this will help projects be shared even better with other members. By posting all the plans in this discussion, we can have an easy way for other members to see a full listing. We can also provide links to the actual projects.

My image is that, with time, this could become a virtual "plan book" of sorts.

So, post your project plans here!

Thanks,
Matthew

I've never used computer aided plans. I measure the area to be infilled find out the components needed
and hand sketch the overview on paper.

Scott G.

eitzert · « **Reply #63 on:** March 08, 2016, 02:15 PM »

Quote from: Matthew Schenker on January 24, 2009, 08:58 AM

Good Morning,
Yesterday, I was browsing through all the great projects posted here in the FOG. It's amazing, not only how much work members have put into their projects, but also how much effort goes into documenting projects with text and photographs.

But there's one more element we'd love to see -- project plans.

I decided to create this discussion, as a place for people to post their project plans. Here's my idea...

If you have posted a project, please add a post here with your technical drawings, handwritten sketches, or other plans.

Doing this will help projects be shared even better with other members. By posting all the plans in this discussion, we can have an easy way for other members to see a full listing. We can also provide links to the actual projects.

My image is that, with time, this could become a virtual "plan book" of sorts.

So, post your project plans here!

Thanks,
Matthew

If you looking for Sketches, go to holzwerkerblog.com
There are ore than one in download area...

OWKFEST · « **Reply #64 on:** October 03, 2018, 05:19 PM »

Hi Matthew, I work out of my garage and mostly projects around the house. Biggest suggestion is space I have been using a 4’x8’ melamine sheet on 4 saw horses for well over 20 years. I have 2 1st generation MFT’s and I still go to the 4’x8’ sheet. I did upgrade it with holes that I drill through the top.I like that it breaks down fast and I can store systainers and vacuum underneath. I have plans for a better system to increase the work height to fit me.

Best OWKFEST

shawny2005 · « **Reply #65 on:** January 20, 2022, 01:46 PM »

Old thread, but thought I would share a bunch of my "plans" I have posted on ShaperHub.

https://hub.shapertools.com/creators/59b9b892291ebbfa71254b52

Packard · « **Reply #66 on:** January 20, 2022, 03:15 PM »

It looks great. What are the dowels for?