Author Topic: Greene and Greene style mirror  (Read 467 times)

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Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 329
Greene and Greene style mirror
« on: November 08, 2019, 02:08 PM »
I'm building a couple of mirrors that closely imitate the style of the Greene + Greene Blacker house mirror. One is a birthday gift for my mother, although it's going to be about 1/3 of a year late.. the other will be for me to hang on to.

https://collections.lacma.org/node/246347

I thought I would record some of the process here. Because of constraints, I'm building them from laminated 4/4 Sapele instead of 6/4 (the yard only had 4/4 and 8/4.  I didn't want to take .75" off the boards by hand and my bandsaw is tiny and limited).  Most of the joinery is by hand using chisels saws, and shooting boards.
I'm almost complete with the assembly and should be able to start the finishing process this weekend.

I'm currently at the step of making and installing 3/8" ebony plugs, which are supposed to be pillowed and stand proud of the face of the mirror by a little bit.  According to Darrell Peart, the original spec was 1/64" - pretty subtle.

Thus far, mine have come out considerably chunkier and more pronounced.

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While not consistent w/ Greene and Greene, I'm not sure if it's aesthetically problematic.  The issue I have run into is in my understanding of what a pillowed face should properly look like.  I've been through several iterations:

1. Twirling on sandpaper w/ a soft backer - slow and inconsistent
2. Hand drill on sandpper w/ Soft Backer (William Ng has a great video on this) - pretty good but my drills don't quite accomodate the oversided 3/8" ebony rod
3. Drill press on sandpaper w/ soft backer - easy but the perfect rotation leaves a concentric swirl in the middle w/  a flat spot.  Also, it seems to take off more than I want, creating more of a rounded over effect.
4. By hand using the 'pendulum' motion - I thought this was where I landed and it seemed to give a less pronounced pillowing effect, particularly at the corners. 

It looked really good until I installed it, at which point even this had too much rounding over at the corners.  Because the corners need to stay proud of the face to maintain the shoulder, if they are rounded too much the plug overall has to project out further. 

Now I'm working on deciding whether to mess with these or let them be as they are.  To tweak them, I could try to sand them a little flatter and then finesse the corners a little bit.  The surrounding frame has already been sanded up to 600 and I've raised the grain twice.  So there is a risk of creating some scratches unless I mask around them.There's also the possibility that I can't effectively round them in situ like that.

Other option would be to remove the plugs by drilling them out and then chiseling the waste.  I don't really like the thought of that for a couple reasons:
1. I'm dimensioning the ebony by hand and it takes a while as i need to make shallow cuts to dodge tearout.  It is hard on my plane blades.  I would need to mill up some more to .388 inch square. I wish I had a drum sander for things like this!
2. The plugs are oversized so that the Sapele is forced to compress around them to accomodate the harder ebony. This helps a lot with avoiding any gaps.  Now that Ive installed them, I would run the risk of gaps or need to mill up slightly bigger plugs.
3. It would be a shame to waste all that ebony.

For the second mirror, I'm going to see what I can do to improve on this.  I think that the arc needs to be about half as much on the plugs, now that I see the relationship between the degree of pillowing and the projection of the plug overall.





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Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4254
Re: Greene and Greene style mirror
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2019, 04:18 PM »
Beautiful wood and joinery!

I too think the ebony plugs are too thick. I’d pare them down with a chisel using a side to side shearing motion. I’m pretty sure authentic G&G plugs are very shallow pyramid shape.

This won’t help you but in G&G furniture the ebony bits are actually drawbore pins rather than caps so it’s end grain that is sheared into a pyramid and therefore at little risk of chipping under the chisel.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2019, 09:03 PM by Michael Kellough »

Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 329
Re: Greene and Greene style mirror
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2019, 10:17 PM »
Beautiful wood and joinery!

I too think the ebony plugs are too thick. I’d pare them down with a chisel using a side to side shearing motion. I’m pretty sure authentic G&G plugs are very shallow pyramid shape.

This won’t help you but in G&G furniture the ebony bits are actually drawbore pins rather than caps so it’s end grain that is sheared into a pyramid and therefore at little risk of chipping under the chisel.

Good call w/ the chisel.   I tried it out last night and took a plug down to about 3/64" with the chisel.  I just need to put some tape around the plug and sand it until it looks right.  I probably have another hour and a half to bring them all down.

This afternoon, I did the plugs for the other mirror - because i had cut them out previously after rounding them with my initial attempt,  I softened the back of the plugs and used those instead.  Definite improvement using a much less significant arc.  I suspect it's still not necessarily 'period perfect' but to my eye it looks much nicer.

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Hopefully tomorrow I can steam out a couple dents and begin finishing.  I have two different finishing schedules: one will be the more typical orange/brown dye and varnish combo, while the other will be shellac, gel stain glaze, and varnish.   



Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 329
Re: Greene and Greene style mirror
« Reply #3 on: Yesterday at 09:44 PM »
Yesterday, I was able to finish chiseling the ebony plugs down to a much less pronounced height and began the finishing process.

This phase of a project is always both exciting (nearing the final stages) and anxiety inducing (still plenty of opportunity to make a mess of it).  I'm doing two frames with two different finishing schedules, which means twice the fun..  right?

The mirror for my mother is a little easier - seal the wood w/ Shellac (a few coats), scuff with 600, a coat of Antique Walnut gel stain (wiped on and then mostly removed), more shellac, and then Arm-R-Seal varnish.  The shellac/gel stain/shellac/varnish combo is one I've used a lot with my house and it tends to be fairly foolproof, as the color sits on top of the wood without covering the grain like it does if you use it on raw wood.

Here is that one with shellac, prior to gel stain:
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And then with Gel Stain.  The difference is subtle, but it's there:

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For the mirror I'm keeping, I am doing a pretty typical G+G style finish: 2 rounds of dye consisting of 7 parts orange and 4 parts medium brown, followed by 3-8 coats of arm-r-seal varnish.  The only thing I do a little differently is a couple sealer coats of shellac between the dye and the oil.  Usually around a 1lb cut although I just eyeball the alcohol to shellac ratio from a bottle of 2lb super blonde shellac.

Sample board on left, crest rail on right:

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I made some errors in judgement today, though.  I noticed that the dye-ing process raised the grain in some spots, despite having ben raised and cut back twice before.  Since I didn't want to sand with the dye stain already on there, I opted to do a few coats of 1lb cut shellac over the dye to 'encapsulate' the grain before sanding it back w/ some 600.

Sadly, 600 was still too aggressive for such thin coats:
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Yikes!  Aparently that dye stain I'm using (general finishes) sits on top a little more than the transtint stuff I have used in the past. While I had seen pigment coming off with the shellac application, I didn't think that it would go that far so quickly.

I tried a couple things to touch it up, but I think that those thin coats of shellac effectively sealed it off from absorbing much color.  Even letting some dye sit for 5 minutes didn't do a lot to bring the color back.  At this point, i'm resigned to mixing up some univrsal colorants in shellac and toning the area until it blends in.  :-\  It's just as well, as there is a glue spot in a corner where I dd a repair w/ Super glue and apparently failed to sand it quite enough:

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In the meantime, I need to decide if I want to try sanding the shellac again after building up some more body or waiting until I'm applying the varnish.  At some point, things need to get leveled out.
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 09:52 PM by mrFinpgh »