Author Topic: Gluing up speaker cabinet - 1/16” inch gap to fix - need help please.  (Read 6412 times)

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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 10184
@Cheese (did it work? How do I tag someone?)

Thanks for asking.
Yup. It pretty much did it!
I was left with a bump on the longer panel, but I don’t think I would be able to fix that anyway.



The opening was on the left side of that picture.

I’m happy with the result


Glad everything came out ok...the big bump is now part of the past, it looks good.

@sebr023
No your tag did not work, you need to make sure the name is exactly like it appears on the forum. In my case the "C" should be upper case. Try changing just that and I'll bet it works. I usually start typing in the name and then a drop down list appears.

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Offline Packard

  • Posts: 1694
[…]but who is to say what sounds best? […]
True.  I have a pair of reference grade (read “expensive”) earbuds.  They came with a print out showing how closely they reproduced the sound.

But most headphones, earbuds and music players are significantly boosted in the bass. 

By comparison the “reference grade” earbuds sound lacking in base.  I much prefer listening to music with my excellent “1More” earbuds. 

But for spoken word, the reference grade earbuds offer a level of clarity that is unmatched by any other headphones/earbuds that I have listened to. The fact that is it noise isolating (not “noise cancelling”) may play into this also.

I do think most people prefer the over-boosted bass that is now the fashion.  Science strives for accuracy, but our ears do not necessarily agree.

Offline Vtshopdog

  • Posts: 179
@sebr023 they're looking good, nice rescue of the bulging glue up.

Have you cut the driver openings in your baffles yet?  Depending on frame shape and recess depth mid and bass driver openings can benefit from chamfering the backside of the opening to open up air flow around perimeter of the cone.  Just takes a couple minutes and can't hurt anything.

Below pic is an example, in this case I had to cut the chamfers before gluing, veneering and making final opening cuts on the front of box once it was assembled.  I sometimes do not extend chamfer behind mounting screws, especially in MDF, depends on driver frame and screw placement dimensions.  These are the 6 unrecessed areas around radius marked in Sharpie pen you see in this photo.

Also, here's a link to an article about this:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm


« Last Edit: October 29, 2022, 03:20 PM by Vtshopdog »

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
[…]but who is to say what sounds best? […]
True.  I have a pair of reference grade (read “expensive”) earbuds.  They came with a print out showing how closely they reproduced the sound.

But most headphones, earbuds and music players are significantly boosted in the bass. 

By comparison the “reference grade” earbuds sound lacking in base.  I much prefer listening to music with my excellent “1More” earbuds. 

But for spoken word, the reference grade earbuds offer a level of clarity that is unmatched by any other headphones/earbuds that I have listened to. The fact that is it noise isolating (not “noise cancelling”) may play into this also.

I do think most people prefer the over-boosted bass that is now the fashion.  Science strives for accuracy, but our ears do not necessarily agree.
Didn’t hear them, but I’ve seen a video of Linus tech tip trying out abyss headphone, and they seem to be very good, if ever it may interest you.


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Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Gluing up speaker cabinet - 1/16” inch gap to fix - need help please.
« Reply #34 on: October 29, 2022, 04:44 PM »
@sebr023 they're looking good, nice rescue of the bulging glue up.

Have you cut the driver openings in your baffles yet?  Depending on frame shape and recess depth mid and bass driver openings can benefit from chamfering the backside of the opening to open up air flow around perimeter of the cone.  Just takes a couple minutes and can't hurt anything.

Below pic is an example, in this case I had to cut the chamfers before gluing, veneering and making final opening cuts on the front of box once it was assembled.  I sometimes do not extend chamfer behind mounting screws, especially in MDF, depends on driver frame and screw placement dimensions.  These are the 6 unrecessed areas around radius marked in Sharpie pen you see in this photo.

Also, here's a link to an article about this:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm


(Attachment Link)
I did actually, both opening and I rounded  over all the interior edge.
The CSS audio kit and instruction are very nice.
It’s my first speaker cabinet, can’t wait to hear them. I did a car subwoofer like 15 years ago. But that’s it.

Center channel baffle interior face. Round over is 3/8 on 3/4 ply :


This is where the twitter will be installed:


Center channel brace:


Left and right speaker brace:



Left and right baffle interior side:



Bonus pictures:
1/2 corian and 3/4 birch plywood baffle. Laminated together with silicone.


Extra bonus picture:
Look that m going for



Bonus points if you noticed that the left and right speaker are chamfered edge and the Center channel are rabbet/dado

Miter joint didn’t go very well when I first did the left and right


[mention]Vtshopdog [/mention] i see your using domino’s for your build. What do you think of it?
My guess is that it should make your life easier! I wish I had one!

Edit: I should stop using Tapatalk app, attaching picture is a pain and picture are low resolution. :((


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« Last Edit: October 29, 2022, 04:48 PM by sebr023 »

Online Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 2108
You can't tell from the pics, if they are or not, but as a bit of advice... don't thread into the Corian. Drill the holes oversized and screw into the plywood behind it.
CSX
DF500 + assortment set
PS420 + Base kit
OF1010
OF1010F
OF1400
MFK700 (2)
TS55, FS1080, FS1400 holey, FS1900, FS3000
CT26E + Workshop cleaning set
RO90
RO125
ETS EC 125
RAS115
ETS 125 (2)
TS75
Shaper Origin/Workstation/Plate
MFT clamps set
Installers set
Centrotech organizer set
Socket/Ratchet set

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
You can't tell from the pics, if they are or not, but as a bit of advice... don't thread into the Corian. Drill the holes oversized and screw into the plywood behind it.
Yes! Already thought of that. Thank you.
Corian doesn’t hold screw very well. That why I laminated it with silicone. I pre drill them to have hole locations, but didn’t plan on screwing into the corian!


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Online Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 2108
Good, glad to hear it. Yes, Corian does not do well with fasteners. It is a bad combination of dense and crumbly. I have seen people try it, but it never works well. You have to drill the hole so oversize to get the screw to actually go in, that it will strip immediately. If you force it into a hole that is too small, it will bind/lock -up and the worst part is that the base material will split or crack/crumble away.
Over-sized holes and screwing through it is the only way. Corian is thermally reactive. It grows/shrinks with temperature changes and, just like wood, it will split or buckle if it is constrained buy something stronger. I have literally seen it broken around handrails and light fixtures where someone pushed their luck.
CSX
DF500 + assortment set
PS420 + Base kit
OF1010
OF1010F
OF1400
MFK700 (2)
TS55, FS1080, FS1400 holey, FS1900, FS3000
CT26E + Workshop cleaning set
RO90
RO125
ETS EC 125
RAS115
ETS 125 (2)
TS75
Shaper Origin/Workstation/Plate
MFT clamps set
Installers set
Centrotech organizer set
Socket/Ratchet set

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Oh! Didn’t know THAT much! That’s good to know. Honestly, at first I figured that since the screws would go in the ply, I’d be good. But in the light of all the information and knowledge you just gave me, I’ll make sure to follow that!


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Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Also, while I’m here.

When my box are done, before finishing, what you be the best way the give those cabinet the little less chamfer on the edge to remove sharp corner?!

Like maybe a 1/32 chamfer ?


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Online Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 2108
I would just break the corners by hand with a sanding block. Anything smaller that an 1/8" or so is difficult to do with a machine anyway.
CSX
DF500 + assortment set
PS420 + Base kit
OF1010
OF1010F
OF1400
MFK700 (2)
TS55, FS1080, FS1400 holey, FS1900, FS3000
CT26E + Workshop cleaning set
RO90
RO125
ETS EC 125
RAS115
ETS 125 (2)
TS75
Shaper Origin/Workstation/Plate
MFT clamps set
Installers set
Centrotech organizer set
Socket/Ratchet set

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Follow up on the build for those interested:
Crossover are now glue in place.
Next step is to glue the back pannel. Then Install foam. Glue up the front baffle, apply stain, apply “clear”.





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Offline Vtshopdog

  • Posts: 179
Nice work.  At this rate you will be able to plug then in within a few days.  Always fun moment to fire them up first time.

From question in earlier post, yes Domino machine is absolutely wonderful.  If you can justify cost of owning one, highly recommend as will many others on this forum

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 10184
...apply stain, apply “clear”.

If this side is going to show, I'd suggest starting the staining process on a small area of this side of the cabinet. There appears to be several areas where excess glue squeezed out and those areas may or may not take the stain depending upon the amount of glue on the surface/in the grain and the color of the stain.

Some light sanding and then testing with alcohol or water will give you an idea of what areas will hold the stain.


Offline ChuckS

  • Posts: 4013
Cheese's advice is spot-on. All glue residue spots must be cleaned up before finishing, or they'll show.

A card scraper user? If so, it'll just take a few sweeps to fix a spot, without damaging the veneer to the core.

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Nice work.  At this rate you will be able to plug then in within a few days.  Always fun moment to fire them up first time.

From question in earlier post, yes Domino machine is absolutely wonderful.  If you can justify cost of owning one, highly recommend as will many others on this forum
Cant justify the cost for now, but definitely on my list!

Yes, and I can’t wait.
Tested the crossover couples weeks ago, to see if my solder were good. Wasn’t really impressed with the sound, but the driver didn’t have any box to go in! Haha.

I’ve received the kit in July 2021. Its been a year and a half I’m working on these. But we had a baby last septembre, and last summer we were renovating the house, so free time is not abundantly.


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Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
...apply stain, apply “clear”.

If this side is going to show, I'd suggest starting the staining process on a small area of this side of the cabinet. There appears to be several areas where excess glue squeezed out and those areas may or may not take the stain depending upon the amount of glue on the surface/in the grain and the color of the stain.

Some light sanding and then testing with alcohol or water will give you an idea of what areas will hold the stain.

(Attachment Link)
Thank you for this! Will definitely follow your advice.
I’ve tried staining the edge and the result wasn’t very nice, seemed butchy at some spot.

Will try to remove as much glue as I can before


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Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Cheese's advice is spot-on. All glue residue spots must be cleaned up before finishing, or they'll show.

A card scraper user? If so, it'll just take a few sweeps to fix a spot, without damaging the veneer to the core.
I have one, but I don’t know if it’s not sharp enough or what, but didn’t find it very useful. Light chisel pass seemed to work better


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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 10184

Thank you for this! Will definitely follow your advice.
I’ve tried staining the edge and the result wasn’t very nice, seemed butchy at some spot.

Will try to remove as much glue as I can before


Ya, sanding or scraping like Chuck suggested is your best solution. Sand or scrape a troubled area and then put a small amount of distilled water, like from an eye dropper, on the surface. If the water beads up on the surface then the grain still has glue on it. If the water soaks in then you MIGHT be okay. You'll not know for sure until you stain the surface but you need to give yourself every advantage here because you'll not like the blotchy finish that will result from the glue contamination.

Use distilled water for testing because any minerals have been removed and you'll not have to deal with mineral deposit issues during the testing stage. If the water soaks into the wood, it will raise the grain in that area so let it dry fully and then lightly sand the area again to remove the fuzz.

A lighter colored stain will produce less noticeable blotches than a darker colored stain. Again, the amount of success you have with the glue removal issues may determine your choice of stain color. You've put a lot of work and time in this project so some extra prep time now is well worth the effort.

Good luck and keep us updated.  [smile]

Edit...Also once properly assembled and placed, let us know what your thoughts are on the sound signature of the speakers. There are some lurking audiophiles here.  [cool]
« Last Edit: November 01, 2022, 12:48 PM by Cheese »

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5730
Great tips from Chuck ‘n Cheese  ;)

Without a card scraper you can use utility knife blades. It’s easier to control a long paint scraper blade but you can get good results with a regular blade. Bending the blade so that the convex side goes forward allows you to do spot scraping.

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Gluing up speaker cabinet - 1/16” inch gap to fix - need help please.
« Reply #50 on: November 01, 2022, 01:14 PM »
Yesterday I glued the back pannels .
Also, worry not! this is my garage, I’m not doing this is my kitchen like a mad man!





And I did protected the cords over for any glue spill :


Next step: installing foam.

After installing foam, should I glue the baffle and corian in, before finishing? Or after?


Edit: figured that I’ll glue the baffle after finishing all other side. I’ll use pinter tape to protect finished side from glue squeeze out.

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« Last Edit: November 03, 2022, 10:18 AM by sebr023 »

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
Gluing up speaker cabinet - 1/16” inch gap to fix - need help please.
« Reply #51 on: November 23, 2022, 09:52 AM »
@sebr023 they're looking good, nice rescue of the bulging glue up.

Have you cut the driver openings in your baffles yet?  Depending on frame shape and recess depth mid and bass driver openings can benefit from chamfering the backside of the opening to open up air flow around perimeter of the cone.  Just takes a couple minutes and can't hurt anything.

Below pic is an example, in this case I had to cut the chamfers before gluing, veneering and making final opening cuts on the front of box once it was assembled.  I sometimes do not extend chamfer behind mounting screws, especially in MDF, depends on driver frame and screw placement dimensions.  These are the 6 unrecessed areas around radius marked in Sharpie pen you see in this photo.

Also, here's a link to an article about this:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm


(Attachment Link)
How were you able to make the “pocket” where the router bit is going toward the Center in order to let more wood for the screws? Like the offset?!

Don’t know how to explain, I figured a screenshot would make it easier haha!




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Offline Vtshopdog

  • Posts: 179
I used my router mounted on circle cutting jig with a plunge base. 
Made one shallow pass full 360 degrees then followed with individual segments plunged deeper to create the chamfers for the driver backs. 

I did this before making the driver cutouts.  Since yours are already cut best bet will be using a piloted chamfer bit to cut the segments.  If your boxes are already glued (I think this is the case, no?) then you won’t be able to do it this way or you will need some sort of router bit with top mount pilot bearing, likely hard to find and/or expensive.

Cut out by hand with a rasp??

Offline sebr023

  • Posts: 45
I used my router mounted on circle cutting jig with a plunge base. 
Made one shallow pass full 360 degrees then followed with individual segments plunged deeper to create the chamfers for the driver backs. 

I did this before making the driver cutouts.  Since yours are already cut best bet will be using a piloted chamfer bit to cut the segments.  If your boxes are already glued (I think this is the case, no?) then you won’t be able to do it this way or you will need some sort of router bit with top mount pilot bearing, likely hard to find and/or expensive.

Cut out by hand with a rasp??
They are done by now. But I remember I wanted to ask you.

It’s pretty neat how it’s done.

For mine I just used a smaller quarter round bit. Used a 3/8 radius.
Could have gone way bigger with the corian baffle.


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