Author Topic: Entryway bench (Read 12915 times)

tsmi243 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 12, 2022, 02:41 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on April 12, 2022, 09:45 AM

Quote from: hdv on April 12, 2022, 09:35 AM
In cases like these I like to choose a low-tech approach and make an oversize piece and then snug up to it with a plane. What helps is the Veritas Adjustable Shooting Board I have. I use a bevel square to get the precise angle and set the shooting board to just that angle. To get the angle I do as you did and just clamp the wood to the workpiece. Try to err on the cautious side and be patient while getting close to the size you need. Lots of fitting...

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/110737-veritas-shooting-board

That certainly does seem to be the best way to do this. However it's also a $500 solution I'm looking to get into hand tools more but I think a proper jointer plane is next on the list to go with my new planer.

Since you'd be making relative adjustments anyway, why not build a quick one out of MDF? If you like it enough to want to keep it, then buy the Veritas once the MDF is worn out.

I'll give you my handplane advice- FWIW. I ended up with a complete set, from 2 thru 8, before I discovered that all I really needed was the 5 1/2. Furniture parts are short enough that you can joint and shoot with it. And a power planer means your panels will be close enough to dead flat that you can smooth with it, too. All the other sizes really only make sense if you're working with rough timber and entirely without power tools.

hdv · « **Reply #31 on:** April 12, 2022, 02:55 PM »

I largely do agree with you. However, if you make things with wide boards in/on them, then I do believe a good #7 will get you to places where a powered planer can't. Most of those machines are in the 12-16" range. Boards for tables are wider than that. I like to use a jointer in such cases. Some might be able to get the same results with a #5 1/2 but I am not (yet) skilled enough for that, it seems.

But, as I told DynaGlide, I might not be the best person to give advice when it comes to planes, as for me the cool-aid is not only of the green kind, but of the sharp-bladed metal kind too. I have more planes than a sensible person would spend his money on.

Crazyraceguy · « **Reply #32 on:** April 12, 2022, 07:22 PM »

Quote from: hdv on April 12, 2022, 02:55 PM

I largely do agree with you. However, if you make things with wide boards in/on them, then I do believe a good #7 will get you to places where a powered planer can't. Most of those machines are in the 12-16" range. Boards for tables are wider than that. I like to use a jointer in such cases. Some might be able to get the same results with a #5 1/2 but I am not (yet) skilled enough for that, it seems.

But, as I told DynaGlide, I might not be the best person to give advice when it comes to planes, as for me the cool-aid is not only of the green kind, but of the sharp-bladed metal kind too. I have more planes than a sensible person would spend his money on.

Kind of like me with routers? I have had people ask me if I have a router for every bit? To which I respond by pulling the Systainer out and opening the lid. Not even close. Those are only the 1/4" and 1/2" shanks, the 8mm are in a drawer in the big tool box.
20, plus a Shaper Origin.

hdv · « **Reply #33 on:** April 13, 2022, 05:45 AM »

Guilty as charged!

I haven't counted them, but it is more than a sensible non-professional person would have. I really do like using them, but have to admit I could use some improving of my skills. I am getting better, but still have a lot to learn. It is just that I like using them. I find them beautiful, I like their noiselessness, and I like the feel of the wood after planing it. I don't even mind the sharpening (now you definitely know there's something wrong with me!

) . Although I am thinking of adding a Sorby ProEdge next to my collection of Shaptons to speed up the shaping. The honing/lapping I'll probably keep doing by hand.

P.S. As I wrote the previous post I actually was thinking of putting a reference to your router "habit" in it...

DynaGlide · « **Reply #34 on:** April 13, 2022, 02:37 PM »

Prepare for a shameless self pat on the back in 1, 2, 3. .

After watching some videos, namely this one:

I decided to play around some more. I'll let the results speak for themselves. I didn't even break out the hand tools everything was done on the Kapex.

Unfortunately I'm out of material and will need more to do the other side.

Matt

rvieceli · « **Reply #35 on:** April 13, 2022, 04:02 PM »

Looks good @DynaGlide ,better get that wood quick before you forget how you did it. Oh wait that would probably be me.

Ron

hdv · « **Reply #36 on:** April 13, 2022, 04:15 PM »

That pat is well-deserved. It looks great! Well done!

FestitaMakool · « **Reply #37 on:** April 13, 2022, 05:13 PM »

That is going to be a very good looking bench DynaGlide. Well done!

I’ve done a few shelves with that kind of X-support. Mostly with a hand saw. A good few on some decking fence too. These are not easy to get everything matching up - I know

.
I’ve never done a furniture with them, you’re brave!

Sparktrician · « **Reply #38 on:** April 14, 2022, 08:32 AM »

Well done, Matt!!!

Rick Herrick · « **Reply #39 on:** April 14, 2022, 09:06 AM »

Excellent job Matt! And using only the Kapex is very cool.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #40 on:** April 14, 2022, 09:22 AM »

Thanks guys. It was some tricky figuring out for sure. I paid the stupidity tax and bought another pre surfaced board from Woodcraft last night after work. Crazy expensive compared to what I get the stuff for from my distributor but when you only need a little bit and don't want to deal with milling it made the most sense to me.

I'm hoping to have a system down for milling lumber next time I tackle a project like this. I have the planer setup awaiting a helical upgrade. I have a Veritas LAJ plane on order to aid in knocking down high spots. And to get ahead of the hand tool purists saying there's better planes for the task: I did my homework here and settled on the LAJ plane as it will let me do lots of other things with the different blades available. I'll explore dedicated smooth/coarse/jointer planes as my needs/wants evolve.

I'll build myself a face jointing sled for the planer. I can edge joint with the track saw. Not the best or ideal setup but for my needs, will make do. Certainly better than what I've been doing which is buying the stock at 3/4 S4S and working around twists and warps. The worst thing was having to face glue the 3/4 boards to get 1.5" thick. I hated doing that.

Matt

JINRO · « **Reply #41 on:** April 14, 2022, 09:40 AM »

Wow~ Love your shop!!!

DynaGlide · « **Reply #42 on:** April 14, 2022, 10:39 AM »

Cheese · « **Reply #43 on:** April 14, 2022, 12:03 PM »

Very nice recovery Matt and that bench looks terrific.

It was your post on April 12th that I was going to suggest that you just persevere and take really small cuts at a time and just sneak up to the fit that you needed. But then I thought "That's easy for you to say Cheese when you're not doing any of the work.", so I passed.

That's the method I used to install new maple treads & risers, whisper thin saw cuts and angle adjustments in the 1/4º range. A very slow & tedious process but it does work.

FestitaMakool · « **Reply #44 on:** April 14, 2022, 01:13 PM »

I really like the Track tubes, and the worktops.. Having the same saw horses, but with std. 2x3” construction lumber and construction grade plain plywood top - The set up you have would be really nice and flexible. Wish someone would bring them over in bulk!

DynaGlide · « **Reply #45 on:** April 14, 2022, 01:38 PM »

@FestitaMakool

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/

Mike Goetzke · « **Reply #46 on:** April 14, 2022, 03:18 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on April 14, 2022, 01:38 PM

@FestitaMakool

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/

Matt - glad you decided to include the "X" in the ends. Nice looking project. I'm thinking of making one.

Also, on our TrackTube benches. I posted incorporating my previous Eurekazone Bridge using the same bench dog principle. I like the one side hinge design better (I think) because it only needs attachment at one end.

For reference here was my post: https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/ez-bridge-on-mft-slab/msg626385/#msg626385

DynaGlide · « **Reply #47 on:** April 15, 2022, 02:20 PM »

I think this wins for weirdest thing I've had to figure out how to glue up:

I was careful to not use too much glue as I don't want to deal with trying to remove squeeze out. I cut wedge blocks out of complementary angles and nubbed them off. The X on this end of the table was a little looser necessitating clamping pressure to get it to close the gaps.

Rick Herrick · « **Reply #48 on:** April 15, 2022, 02:25 PM »

And that's why you keep your cutoffs!!

FestitaMakool · « **Reply #49 on:** April 15, 2022, 07:01 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on April 14, 2022, 01:38 PM

@FestitaMakool

I've found myself taking advantage of their split/sliding top design a lot in my work. Sometimes I want to get a clamp in between the tops, or I want to move a top so it supports something I'm working on.

Compared to the MFT/3's I sold off I like these a lot more. And I believe Benchdogs.co.uk is coming out with a guide rail hinge that sits in the dog holes of a top for locating which would make separate tops like the Track Tubes even more attractive.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcHrSJpDW5h/

Thanks, I noticed Peter posted a video - haven’t yet had the time to see it.
Again, the system seems to be a great addition to a Festool MFT/3 - my table “lives” outside so the plywood is never flat, but for general work when assembling, using a jigsaw, router, coffe table, painting table and so forth.. with its 240cm length I use it for anything often with room to spare. Adding track tubes and split MFT tops would be splendid during summer (and dry weather..) I do all I can outside when the temperature and weather is nice - leaving smaller work to the MFT/3 inside.

If BenchDogs UK would make similar…

I’ve been busy making my “tool holders” smarter, easing moving and storing tools lately, I’d be glad to buy some tooling - so I have more time making things I need instead of making tool tables and such.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #50 on:** April 21, 2022, 02:21 PM »

It's almost finishing time. I tried doing some dewaxed shellac, with different stains on top, then GF High Performance on some scrap and I don't think I'm going to continue with the staining step.

I like the idea of natural cherry with it aging over time. I've read enough peoples experiences saying to washcoat first with cherry. Would I be fine to do that, then 3 coats of GF High Performance and call it a day? Sanding in between as required.

FestitaMakool · « **Reply #51 on:** April 21, 2022, 04:27 PM »

I know finishing is about tradition and personal taste.
I cannot say how cherry naturally age, but I guess local climate and sun exposure will count in.

To my eyes, it looks really good as is!

We do more often finish with white wash oil finishes, to stay ahead of darkening.. Ash, pine, oak.

mino · « **Reply #52 on:** April 21, 2022, 05:26 PM »

I would go Tung Oil for this for natural color.

It yellows a lot less to Linseed oil and handles light better too.

Tim Raleigh · « **Reply #53 on:** April 22, 2022, 02:23 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on April 21, 2022, 02:21 PM

I like the idea of natural cherry with it aging over time. I've read enough peoples experiences saying to washcoat first with cherry. Would I be fine to do that, then 3 coats of GF High Performance and call it a day? Sanding in between as required.

....or Osmo Poly x or GF Arm R seal. Easy Peasy.
Tim

Crazyraceguy · « **Reply #54 on:** April 22, 2022, 08:55 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on April 15, 2022, 02:20 PM

I think this wins for weirdest thing I've had to figure out how to glue up:

I was careful to not use too much glue as I don't want to deal with trying to remove squeeze out. I cut wedge blocks out of complementary angles and nubbed them off. The X on this end of the table was a little looser necessitating clamping pressure to get it to close the gaps.

I have dozens of clamping blocks, wedges, fixtures spread all over. Some are right under the main bench, but others are in the miter saw station or on the shelves behind my back wall. Once in a while, I do throw some away because they were so specialized that they only ever work with that one job they were made for.
The bench project looks great. Can't wait to see some finish on it.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #55 on:** April 25, 2022, 11:51 AM »

After talking with an instagram friend of mine who builds furniture professionally and mostly works with Cherry, I went ahead with my plan. The pieces all received a washcoat of 50/50 SealCoat Dewaxed shellac/Denatured alcohol mix followed by a full strength 2lb cut coat. Lightly sanded with 320, vacuumed, wiped, and tack clothed and onto General Finishes High Performance Satin. First coat went on light and turned out great. Second coat I was able to get it on thicker with great weather, overcast and slight breeze. Having never used either shellac or GF High Performance I wasn't sure what was going to happen but man am I really pleased with the GF High Performance. It works right out of the can, levels out nicely, dries fast, and is just a real pleasure to work with.

I've only worked with paints and Kem Aqua + up until now. After this experience I want to do more wood projects in the future. Spraying makes everything turn out so, so much nicer. I'll give the 2nd coat time to cure and decide if I want to do a third on the top and shoe rack shelves. GF claims additional coats don't do anything for the durability.

Matt

sawdustinmyshoes · « **Reply #56 on:** April 25, 2022, 01:48 PM »

Looks great! I agree. Spraying is the way to go. Where did you get the stands you're using for finishing/drying racks?

DynaGlide · « **Reply #57 on:** April 25, 2022, 02:02 PM »

Quote from: sawdustinmyshoes on April 25, 2022, 01:48 PM

Looks great! I agree. Spraying is the way to go. Where did you get the stands you're using for finishing/drying racks?

Thank you! They can be purchased here direct or I think Rockler carries them: https://thepaintline.com/

sawdustinmyshoes · « **Reply #58 on:** April 25, 2022, 02:48 PM »

[Thank you! They can be purchased here direct or I think Rockler carries them: https://thepaintline.com/
[/quote]

Thank you!

Mike Goetzke · « **Reply #59 on:** April 25, 2022, 03:22 PM »

Quote from: sawdustinmyshoes on April 25, 2022, 02:48 PM

[Thank you! They can be purchased here direct or I think Rockler carries them: https://thepaintline.com/

Thank you!
[/quote]

FYI - When I had a big job with our kitchen remodel I made a rack with PVC pipe that can be broken down easily. Was dirt cheap to build years ago but last time I checked PVC piping has gone up in price between 5 to 10 times what it was before COVID. (you can probably Google it and find some ideas)