Author Topic: Entry hall table for a niece  (Read 5977 times)

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Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2020, 02:04 PM »
It’s coming along nicely now Derek, so much detail and precision.
I sometimes pop in to see an old retired, and almost famous in the know master cabinet maker.
He is in his early 90’s now, and still keeps his hand in. I have shown him some of your threads and work whenever I have the iPad with me. He always takes his time gazing, and makes lots of praising comments. His words are like a seal of approval, to any of us lucky enough to receive them.  [thumbs up]

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Offline Bert Vanderveen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #31 on: February 16, 2020, 03:26 PM »
I think I did not explain very well. So here is a quick sketch:

Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

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Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2020, 05:52 PM »
Hi Bert

Thanks for the discussion. It is much appreciated.

What you have drawn is a blind mortice-and-tenon joint. It is shallow. What I have done is create a through joint, which means that the mortice-and-tenon is 30mm deep in a separate base. The grain of the base runs across the grain of the case, however the base is a sliding dovetail, which permits it to be locked in, but also free to expand towards the rear of the case (it will only be glued at the front of the socket).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #33 on: February 17, 2020, 11:45 AM »
Following hot on the heels of the last post, where we created the male or tail section of the tapered sliding dovetail, now comes the female or pin socket to house the base for the legs.



These are the bases. This post will focus on the socket for the one closest the camera.



The base is positioned exactly 3 1/4" from the side. The tapered side is on the inside, with the outside face square to the front and rear of the case ...



This process is essentially the same as transferring marks from the tail- to the pin board with drawers.

The base tapers towards the toe, that is, the sliding dovetail will tighten up as the base is pushed into the socket.

The first step is to register the far end of the base in such a way that the position is repeatable. This is done by placing a long board along the "square" side. The position for the end of the board is marked ...



Now the base can be stood up to mark inside the tail with a scratch awl. You can make out the mark aligning the baseline of the tail ...



Look carefully for the dots.



This is repeated at the other end.



The dots are now joined up ...



The plan is to saw the socket sides, as if sawing dovetails in a drawer. The angle ratio is 1:6, as it was with the base. Since the socket is blind or stopped, the saw needs to have space in which to begin the cut. An area at the toe is excavated with a router.

The depth of the cut is set using a 7.0mm drill bit. I am aware that the actual depth is 7.5mm, but this will be a second pass. I intend to clear the waste with the router - this Jarrah is bloody hard, and I am not a masochist! :)





Using an angled saw guide, the end is chopped to the line ..



Now this is space to register the azebiki saw ...



I have roughly marked a depth to aim for ...



Both sides have been sawn ...



The waste is removed with the router, leaving a few mm close to the sides ...



This is chopped away with a chisel in two passes, and then cleaned up with a hand router ...



The side rebate #79/dovetail plane is used to clean any rough sections ..



The power router drops a 0.5mm to 7.5mm and this is cleaned up ...



Amazingly, the base slides in and tightens up about 1/4" from the end. It will need a tap to be fully secure.



That's it for now.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Offline rmhinden

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #34 on: February 17, 2020, 12:05 PM »
Very nice work!

Bob

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #35 on: February 22, 2020, 01:02 PM »
The legs are on. I must admit to mixed feelings at this stage. This is not my style of leg, but it is what my niece wants. Perhaps I will feel differently with a finish on the wood.





The tenons were kerfed for a wedge ...



Installed in the bases ...





And glued into the socket. Note that only the first third is glued. The rear is free to move ...



The bases have been shaped to reduce their impact ...





The legs were evened up ..



Side view from underneath (one does not see the base otherwise) ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #36 on: February 22, 2020, 06:56 PM »
I think it looks nice.  That's saying something from me.  Nice design and execution!

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2020, 11:27 AM »
Thanks Jim

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #38 on: February 23, 2020, 11:28 AM »
It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers".

There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ...



The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ...



I've chosen the high road (sigh).

Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do.

The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness.

I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ...



No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together.



This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ...



The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick  ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial :)   .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ...



Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn.



The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner.

The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ...

First plough the bead ...



A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ...



Now flip the board around to plane the groove ...

The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove.



As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ...





... and then rip off the slip on the table saw.



This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ...



I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts.

First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ...



The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ...





On to the all-important drawer fronts!

I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ...



This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board.

Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ...



... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ...



A good result ...



This is the join I need to manage ...



These are the fronts fitted in sequence ...



And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2020, 09:11 AM »
The process of attaching of the legs was completed by the addition of two screws in the sliding dovetail base.

Why add screws? The screws are not to prevent the base sliding back (an elongated hole actually encourages this). It is just to prevent the base twisting in, and breaking out of, the socket since there is no glue there to prevent any lateral movement.

The force comes from the splayed and angled legs. They will want to cant outward, and this becomes more so when the three drawers are filled and a vase of flowers is placed on the top of the table.

I thought that it is worth mentioning the screws used and how they were inserted.

The screws are 1" long brass tapered wood screws. The drill bits are also tapered to match. These ones include a countersink and depth stop.



The plan is to drill the hole for the screw through the base and into the case, and then widen the hole in the base. This will permit the base to move with expansion and contraction. In this case 2mm each way.

A wider drill bit (and depth stop) ..



Before inserting a screw, especially brass screws, they are dipped in a little wax. This is wax for lubricating bandsaw blades ...



Here is the widened hole ...



The gap around the screw ...





The second screw is on the other side of the leg. This is positioned about half way between the end screw and the glued toe.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline KelleyCrafts

  • Posts: 46
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #40 on: February 24, 2020, 10:40 AM »
Very Nice Derek! I use eucalyptus a lot. Very similar to the Jarah you are using if not the same thing. It grows huge here in Arizona so it's what I use most. Can be difficult to work sometimes, very dense and brittle. Beautiful stuff.

Looking forward to seeing the figure on that piece when the finish goes on. Very well done on the mitered dovetailed corners as well. Great build.

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #41 on: February 25, 2020, 08:24 AM »
Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go.

This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head.



The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw.

A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ...



Drilled to depth ...



A steel washer added ...



Done ...



I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2020, 09:05 AM »
I put the last screws in after work. That will free up this weekend to concentrate on building the drawers.

There are three screws. The one at the toe is fixed and there is no play for any movement. The two at the rear can slide 2mm each way.





Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #43 on: March 01, 2020, 11:56 AM »
This is the part where we begin building one-piece lipped drawers (as contrasted with applied fronts).

In preparing for this part of the build, my research uncovered exactly one article on dovetailing lipped drawer fronts. This is by Christian Becksvoort in Fine Woodworking magazine (#263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue). Interesting that.

Why lipped drawer fronts? Simply because the three drawers must run continuously across the front, without a gap between them.



The lipped sides will wrap around the drawer dividers, and these will double as drawer stops. This will be illustrated in a short while.

The lipped ends create a challenge to form the pins/sockets for the tailed drawer sides since it becomes difficult to saw. I have a novel solution :)

We begin by marking where the lipped sides will be. This is knifed in through from the rear of the case ...



The marks are knifed with a cutting gauge.

The distance from the edge is exactly the same for each board - 6mm. The side spacers are 6mm wide and the two central drawer dividers are 12mm thick, of which each lip is half this thickness.



The drawer front is rebated with a moving filletster plane ...



With both sides rebated, the centre must fit snuggly between the drawer dividers ...



... and leave exactly half of the dividers remaining ...





Side-by-side, perfect fit ...



The rebates are fine-tuned with a cutting gauge, ensuring that they are even and square ...



This measure is transferred to the drawer side ...



I took the time to lay out the dovetails on a scrap as a template. This saves a lot of repeated layouts ...



Tails done ...



The tail board with be placed here, but with the lip extending past ...



This is what it would look like if dovetailed ...



To make it easier to see what I am sawing, I am using blue tape ...



Transferring the tails to the pin board is made a little easier as the rebate is a handy stop ..





Marked out produces this ...



And that is where it stops being straight forward as this is as much as it is possible to saw inside the lines ...



I decided that, if I could not saw it, I would chop it. This gives new meaning to "chopping dovetails" :)

The pin board is clamped (to avoid any splitting), and the kerfing chisel is used to deepen the existing half-kerf, and then extend it across the socket ...





Now the waste is chopped out ...





This picture of a fishtail chisel cleaning the corner of the socket is for bill :)



Does it fit? Oh, the suspense!





Two more to go.

Regards from Perth

Derek




Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #44 on: March 02, 2020, 11:14 AM »
Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ...



Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself:



This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #45 on: March 07, 2020, 01:34 PM »
The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process.

We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ...



... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ...



First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts ..



The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick).

Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top ..





Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it.

Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ...



... and even shooting ...



One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ...





There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ...



When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ...



I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ...



Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick ..



Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ...

This is the drawer divider in position ...



It is slid back ...



The first third of the dado receives glue ...



The drawer is replaced and positioned ..



And then the drawer divider is slid up against the rear of the lip ..



The drawer case is fine-tuned with the LN Rabbet Block Plane ...



This is used to smooth over any irregularities in the side walls and, where necessary, to plane away any fat ...



The drawers are in the process of being glued up. Drawer #3 cannot be glued up until a brass plate is recessed  into one side. T



Marked out, the waste routed, and then chiselled along the circumference ...





The drawer fronts are planed ...



Another dry assembly and check for fit ...



If there is any resistance to the drawer being pushed in-and-out, I test fit it from the rear. This shows whether the drawer or case needs some planing. Looking good here, as it goes right in ...



There is good drawer extension (about 80%) ...



The drawers are now glued up.

Lastly, for the day, the slips are attached. These began like this, grooved and beaded ...



A Jarrah runner is added below. The upper section of the slip is, as with the drawer sides and drawer bottoms, made from Tasmanian Oak. This is similar to US White Oak in hardness and wear. Since the drawers run on Jarrah, the wear properties are improved with the Jarrah wear section ...



Tomorrow should see the conclusion of the build.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #46 on: March 08, 2020, 09:59 AM »
Really, really nice, Derek!  I especially think the plaque is a nice touch.  Can't wait to see the finished pics!

Offline jobsworth

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #47 on: March 08, 2020, 12:26 PM »
really nice work Mate. Well done

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #48 on: March 10, 2020, 12:15 PM »
This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls.

A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ...



Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ...



Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ...



The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth.



Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ...



Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip.

The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm).



The tongue is planed ...



The fit is tested with a spare slip ...



The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ...



Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ...



Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer.



The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness.



Set up to make the pulls ...



A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick.



Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) ..



A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull  (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ...





The outlines are cut out ...



The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls  ...



The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider.

The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier  ...



The next post will show the completed hall table.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #49 on: March 10, 2020, 03:05 PM »
Beautiful!

Nice to see the MOF-177 earning it’s keep, I have one in good order that mainly sits in a router table. The other is brand new unused in it’s original box, on a shelf in the workshop (at least 30 odd years old)
I don’t know why we never used it? I think I bought two together and a recession hit, so work volume slowed, and it’s sat there ever since.
As you know, they’re are great routers.

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #50 on: March 10, 2020, 07:43 PM »
JJ, the Elu177e is an excellent router. That one was purchased 30 years ago. I do have another in a router table ..





As you are probably aware, today these are sold as the DeWalt DW625.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #51 on: March 11, 2020, 03:27 AM »
Hi Derek, yes I’ve bought a few parts (dust extraction port etc) under the De Walt DW625 listing.
Still prefer Elu grey to De Walt yellow though  [wink]

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #52 on: March 14, 2020, 09:57 AM »
My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney.

This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ...



I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable.

Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive.

Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad.

The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about :)

A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night.

At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. :)

Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall  ....



The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah.





A close up the waterfall on one side ...



... and on the other ...



The obligatory dovetail shot ...



Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak.









Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties.



As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ...



Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers.





Now those drawer handles ...

I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ...



Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ...



The internal bevels around the case ...



... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ...



Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open.



Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! :)

And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ...



Thanks for coming along for the ride.

Regards from Perth

Derek





Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #53 on: March 14, 2020, 11:40 AM »
A couple of extras ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #54 on: March 14, 2020, 12:20 PM »
Derek, that really is a work of art, and demonstrates a lot of techniques and fine detail.
It will be loved and admired for many years to come, without doubt. It reminds me of some pieces I saw at an exhibition a few years back.
There were pieces, that the more you looked at, the more detail and craftsmanship you uncovered. Very much like your table.

I will show it to my old retired cabinet maker friend, he will really appreciate the detail.
[thumbs up]

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #55 on: March 14, 2020, 12:41 PM »
Thanks Jiggy for all your kind words and encouragement. I welcome the critique of your friend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline tallgrass

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #56 on: March 15, 2020, 02:41 AM »
Amazing work!

Offline pixelated

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #57 on: March 15, 2020, 06:45 AM »
Derek, Your niece is a very fortunate lady to have you as an uncle. Beautiful work, thank you for sharing the project.

Offline BarneyD

  • Posts: 95
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #58 on: March 15, 2020, 05:23 PM »
Hi Derek,

That is an exceptionally nice piece. Just gorgeous. I'm sure your niece will cherish it.  I hope some day to reach a skill level approaching yours. And thank you for taking the time to document the build. Your photos and explanations are superb. I really appreciate the effort.

Many years ago I made several business trips to your side of the country. On one trip I happened into a home center down in Collie and was amazed to see Jarrah being offered for deck boards. Over here the stuff is rare and precious. It is truly beautiful. 

Thanks again.
Barney

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #59 on: March 15, 2020, 06:04 PM »
Derek,  All I can say is, this thread is akin to when I discovered my first Playboy as an adolescent.  Woodworking porn!  You are The Man.  Cheers!
Jim