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Offline derekcohen

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Entry hall table for a niece
« on: November 26, 2019, 11:12 AM »
I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence.

The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat.



She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each).







Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing.

One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider.

Here you can see that it comes up short ...



In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ...



The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ...



... and repeat at the rear ...



The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ...



This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ...



The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections.



The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ...



Done for the day ...



Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2019, 11:13 AM »
We are building a version of this hall table ...



We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards ..



A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should.

I began this session by turning the legs ...





The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed.

The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc.





Once done, you can square up on a jointer ..



... rip to width ...



... and cross cut ...



Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ...



Packed away for the night ...



When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ...





My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) ..



Completed side panels ...



It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html).

These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ...



Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ...



Saw the pins ...



Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides.

Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ...



Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ...



Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ...



The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding.

Now you can fretsaw away the waste.



Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ...



Here is a video of the process:



To create the mitred ends, first mark ...



... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy.



And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ...



So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline ultane

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2019, 11:58 AM »
Where’s the like button?
I might be wrong… Just ask my X...

Offline Bert Vanderveen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2019, 02:34 PM »
So I guess you would contain/restrain some of the tension in the wood by clamping it down, but won’t it exercise that need to move later on in the process?
Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

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Offline ForumMFG

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2019, 07:02 PM »
Where’s the like button?

Yeah really, i would smash it!

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2020, 12:57 PM »
I've been away from the workshop for a month, travelling around a few cities in Austria and Germany, as well as Prague. It was a good trip, but it's great to be home.

The current build was on hold. This is the entry hall table my niece asked me to build ...



... and this is where we left off last time - ready to fit the first corner ...



Past builds:
Part 1: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece1.html
Part 2:  http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2.html

Today we shall put the complete case together. What I wish to focus on is the dovetailing. Not just any dovetailing, but mitred through dovetailing in unforgiving hardwood (here, Fiddleback Jarrah).

Of all the commonly used dovetails, I consider the through dovetail more difficult than the half-blind dovetail. Why ... because two sides are exposed against the single face of the half-blind.

In my opinion, by mitering the ends, the level of complexity is tripled .. at least. Not only are there three faces now, but each needs to be dimensioned perfectly, otherwise each is affected in turn.

This is more difficult than a secret mitred dovetail, where mistakes may be hidden.

I have posted before on building the mitred though dovetail, and it is not my intention to do this again. Instead, what I wish to show are the tuning tricks to get it right.

This is the model of the tail- and pin boards …



In a wide case, such as this, it is critical that the parts go together ideally off the saw or, at least, require minimal adjustment. The more adjustments one makes, the more the dovetails will look ragged.

Tail boards are straightforward. Let’s consider this done. Once the transfer of tails to pins is completed, the vital area is sawing the vertical lines … well, perfectly vertical.

I use blue tape in transferring the marks. The first saw cut is flat against the tape. Note that the harder the wood, the less compression there will be, and so the tail-pin fit needs to be spot on. Where you saw offers an opportunity for ensuring a good fit: if you hug the line (edge of the tape), you get a tight fit. If you encroach a smidgeon over the line, you loosen the fit slightly.



Saw diagionally, using the vertical line as your target …



Only then level the saw and complete the cut …



I do not plan to discuss removing the waste. That was demonstrated in Part 2.

So, the next important area is the mitre. These are scribed, and then I use a crosscut saw to remove the waste about 1mm above the line on both the tail- and pin boards …



Now we are ready to test-fit the boards …



Mmmm …. not a great fit …



… even though the mitres at the sides are tight …



The problem is that the mitres are fat, and the extra thickness is holding the boards apart …



Even sawing to the lines here is likely to leave some fat, which is why it is a waste of energy to try and saw to the line in this instance. It needs to be pared away with a chisel, using a 45-degree fixture.



As tempting and logical as it seems to pare straight down the guide …



… what I experience is that the chisel will skip over the surface of the hard wood rather than digging in and cutting it away. What is more successful is to pare at an angle, and let the corner of the bevel catch the wood …





This is what you are aiming for …





Okay, we do this. And this is the result …





Not bad. But not good enough. There is a slight gap at each side, quite fine, but evident close up.

The source is traced to the mitre not being clean enough. It is like sharpening a blade – look for the light on the edge. If it is there, the blade is not sharp. If there is a slight amount of waste on the mitre, the case will not close up.



To clear this, instead of a chisel – which is tricky to use for such a small amount – I choose to use a file. This file has the teeth on the sides ground off to create “safe” sides.



Try again. The fit is now very good. I will stop there.





So, this is the stage of the project: the case is completed. This is a dry fit …



One end …


The other …



The waterfall can be seen, even without being smoothed and finished …



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Mario Turcot

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2020, 03:50 PM »
Beautiful Derek, the figure on that wood is amazing already. Imagine with finish  [big grin]
Mario

Offline duc996

  • Posts: 174
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2020, 09:53 PM »
Derek, you are a very talented craftsman. Your Niece will cherish your work! Thank you for sharing!

Offline ultane

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2020, 10:14 PM »
Beautiful work! I wish I had your skills!!!
I might be wrong… Just ask my X...

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2020, 08:04 AM »
How beautiful is that timber!  [blink]
Superb craftsmanship as usual, very nice indeed  [thumbs up]

Offline Cort

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2020, 07:56 PM »
Wow!  What skill.

Offline VirTERM

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2020, 09:14 PM »
Derek,
Impressive workmanship and beautiful material, can’t wait to see the final product.

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #12 on: January 25, 2020, 10:54 AM »
Thanks for all the comments. Much appreciated.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #13 on: January 25, 2020, 10:55 AM »
Part 4:

Having completed the dovetailing of the case, the next step is to bevel the front face, and rebate the rear for a back panel.

I had been considering a cove in place of a bevel, however when I mocked this up it came across as appearing too busy. So, back to the bevel.

The angle for the bevel was finalised at 55 degrees. This enabled a 6mm (1/4") flat edge and a bevel that ran to roughly 4mm of the first dovetail. A 45 degree bevel would run into the dovetail.

The lines for the bevel were marked and then roughed out on the table saw ...



The table saw is a slider, and the rip fence was used to position spacers, before clamping a panel for cutting the bevel.

The bevel was then finished with a hand plane ...



This Jarrah is particularly interlocked but planes well with both a high cutting angle (the little HNT Gordon palm smoother) and a close set chipbreaker (the Veritas Custom #4).

Once the bevels were completed, the rear rebate was ploughed ...





Now the panels could be assembled into a case once again, and the work examined for tuning.

Three of the bevels needed tuning. This ranged from a smidgeon here ...



... to a largish amount ...



The case was dissembled and the bevelled edged planed down, re-assembled, checked, pulled apart again, planed ...

The rebates at the rear turned out to not require any tuning, with the exception of one corner ...



... where I had obviously forgotten to plane! :)  :\

That was easily rectified ( ... but the case had to be dissembled again). Finally, this is the rear of the case and the completed rebates ...



This is a rebated corner ...



Here are the front bevelled corners ...





This illustrates by the mitres on the corners of the dovetailed case needed to be perfect. Any undercutting would show here.



Next, the drawer dividers need to be done. I'll mention here - since I would appreciate the thoughts of others - that this area has been my biggest headache.

The reason is that my niece would like the drawers to have the appearance of a single board. However, to achieve this, because of the bevels, is quite complicated.

First of all, the table cannot have just two drawers. The width of the drawers will be greater than their depth, and this would likely lead to racking. Consequently, I plan to build three drawers, which will be more favourable for the width vs depth ratio..

Secondly, if the drawers have dividers between them, which they need (since I do not do runners), then there will be a gap between the drawer fronts (which will not flow uninterrupted).

As I see it, there are two choices: the first is to build the drawers with planted fronts. This is not a method I like (but it may be expedient). The second option is to set the dovetailed drawers sides back (recess them) to account for the internal drawer dividers.

Thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek
« Last Edit: January 25, 2020, 12:14 PM by derekcohen »

Offline Alex

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2020, 11:20 AM »
You are clearly a very skilled craftsman, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us by showing us all these detailed steps. Very interesting.

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2020, 04:35 AM »
Just an opinion Derek but, I think the planted front would be accepted in this scenario.
It’s difficult enough if there were just two drawers but, a third makes it a bigger headache. I know you have the purist mindset, but the majority of the time, the drawers will remain closed, and the table will still look beautiful.
Only the purists or people that are like minded to you, would pick up on the planted front.

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2020, 09:12 AM »
Thanks Jiggy. Just talking about the choice here helps formulate a decision.

What I need are lipped drawers.The question was whether I make them the easy way, which is by planting (glueing) on fronts. Or, whether I build them out of one piece, which is a lot more work as it requires creating half blind dovetails in a rebate.

For those unfamiliar with lipped drawers ..



This is the work of Christian Becksvoort ...





At this point, I am going to do it the hard way and make half-blind sockets in a rebated front. This is similar to building a secret dovetail.

To do this for all the drawers, the insides of the case at each end will require a spacer, essentially a 6mm panel glued to the insides. Each side will be half the thickness of the two middle drawer dividers (each 12mm). The centre dividers will be attached in a dado top and bottom.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline jobsworth

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2020, 09:22 AM »
Just found this thread. I must say you do beautiful work. Your niece will look at that table and remember you the rest of her life. Its truly a heirloom piece

Offline Jiggy Joiner

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2020, 11:28 AM »
@derekcohen Yes I think I knew you’d choose the more difficult but, more rewarding option, and I admire you for that.
If you’d chosen the easier route, I doubt you would have been truly happy. It would of seemed like the old saying “Spoiling the ship for a ha'pworth of tar”

It sounds like your niece has an eye for detail too, so I’m sure she’ll appreciate you going the extra mile on it.
The detail will be amazing!

Offline JSlovic

  • Posts: 108
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2020, 07:29 PM »
Derek,
Absolutely stunning design and craftsmanship- looking forward to seeing your continued progress 

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #20 on: February 01, 2020, 11:36 AM »
The basic case complete ...



My niece's expressed wish is to have a table front looking as if it was faced by a single board. The original model for this project has two drawers. I did not see this working here since, as their width would be greater than their depth, two drawers would likely rack. Consequently, I decided to build three drawers of equal width (I considered a narrow drawer in the centre, but decided this would be too busy).

In order that the figure of the drawer fronts would not be interrupted by the drawer dividers, the drawers are to have half-blind dovetailed side lips, such as these ...



The drawers will each have a side lip of 6mm. This requires a 6mm wide side panel on each side of the case, and two 12mm wide drawer dividers. This will allow three drawers to run adjacent to one another, and the three fronts to be cut from a single board.

The drawer fronts will come from this board ...





Below are the panels for fitting ...



It occurred to me later (of course!) that the 6mm end panels could have been made to run with the grain direction of the case. Being the same Jarrah, this would have counted for any expansion/contraction, and there would not be any danger of movement being intrusive. Too late. It's glued.

So I did the next best thing, and planed 2mm off the upper and lower edges. This will permit enough movement, if any (it is a small and thin panel). There will not be any gaps seen as the front edges will later receive edging, which will be used as a depth stop.



Frankly, the hardest part of this section of the project was accurate marking out of the two central drawer dividers. These need to be both perfectly parallel, and also aligned vertically (the lower panel with the upper panel).

There is a second area that needed to checked, which is important for drawers to work well, and this that the lower panel is flat - that is, does not have any hills. I learned my lesson the hard way about this. All good.

The way I go about marking the dados for the dividers is to make templates for their position. These are used on both the lower panel, as below, and then the upper panel ...



The process is self-explanatory ...







The dados are knifed deeply ...



Chisel walls cut ...



.. and then the waste is removed with a router plane ...





The dados are just 2mm deep. That is deep enough to prevent any movement. This process is quick and relaxing (compared to setting up and using a power router).

Once done, the process is repeated on the upper panel ...





All ready for a dry fit. The rear of the case ...



... and the front ...



Happily, all is square ...





Tomorrow I shall glue it up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline ScotF

  • Posts: 2742
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #21 on: February 01, 2020, 11:56 AM »
Beautiful project!! Thanks for all the pics...wow! Great craftsmanship!!

Offline rubber_ducky

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #22 on: February 01, 2020, 02:37 PM »
Amazing work. Bravo!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #23 on: February 02, 2020, 06:37 AM »
There needs to be a Thank You button for all the replies ... thanks! :)

We ended the last session with the drawer dividers installed ...



Everything was nice and square, but the more I thought about what I had done, the unhappier I became. Such an elementary oversight. I cannot believe I did it, and also that no one pulled me up for it. What was it? Two items:

The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely.

The second is that I could have built in a way to close up the drawer dividers against the back of the (to-be-built) side lipped drawer fronts ... this is to be used as a drawer stop ... at this stage it would be necessary to add a filler. Not good.

So I re-did the drawer dividers. Here is the rear of the case. The drawers are left long on purpose ...



Provision is made for the dividers to be adjustable in length (to close up with the back of the drawer front). They are given rebates to slide further forward ... it will be necessary that they move around 15mm forward (to within 5-6mm of the opening).



The rebate is 2mm deep (the depth of the dados), and largely created with a cutting gauge. The blade slices away end grain, and the resulting splitting away makes it easy to chop the remainder.

Here are the dividers, further forward than before, and capable of moving a little more still ...





The plan was to glue up the case. However, before this is done, it is wise to fit the drawer fronts across the width (the height will be done at a later date).

This is the board for the three drawers.



Removing one end, the board is set on the case ...



It is now apparent that the front of the bevel, where it meets the drawers, is not straight. It is possible to see a small amount of flat ...



This is especially noticeable in this corner ..



This is fairly easy to remedy ... mark with a pencil, and then plane away the pencil marks ...



Perfect now ...



The other end needs no more than a smidgeon removed ..



The upper side is now treated the same way. Interestingly, this needs no work at all.

Time to saw the drawer fronts to size.

First step is to mark the middle point of each divider (since the lips will share the divider). The mark can be seen in the rebate ...



The drawer board across the front ...



Transfer the mark, and then saw the drawer front ...



This process is repeated. Here are the three sequential drawer fronts. You can just make out the breaks ...





I am happy with this.

And so, finally, the case is glued up (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - reversibility and long open time). Looking like a trussed up fowl ....



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2020, 10:49 AM »
The case was glued up yesterday, with everything tight and square as one could wish, but I did not sleep well. I was haunted by the thought that there was a problem that would come to a head some time in the future.



If you look at the grain direction of the two centre drawer dividers, you notice that the grain is vertical. That is the way it should be. Wood moves, expands and contracts. It does this in reaction to moisture in the air. When it moves, it does so across the grain. That is why solid wood drawer bottoms have grain across the width - allowing the drawer bottom to move towards the back of the drawer, rather than towards the sides (where it will be blocked and then buckle).

These drawer dividers will be butted up against the rear of the drawer lips and act as drawer stops. The front third of the divider will be glued in the dado, forcing any expansion towards the rear of the case. All good.

The two spacers at the inside ends of the case have the grain running horizontally. I glued this in before I realised that I had cut them this way. I had done the same with the internal dividers, but re-cut them, as shown in the previous article. The end spacers will expand vertically, and to allow for this, I provided a 2mm gap below and above the panels. That is what kept me awake.

The end spacers are 6mm thick. The case, to which they are glued, is 20mm thick and about 40mm wider. Initially I was concerned that the spacer would be overwhelmed by the case moving, and buckle. Having thought some more about this, I am no longer concerned that this will occur. Why? Because movement in the case would instead "stretch" the spacer length-wise. I started to breath again.

In the end, I decided to reduce the height of the spacers by half. This would allow them plenty of space to expand, when necessary, as well as reducing their impact inside the case.

Here is one side ...



Taped for visibility and protection ...



The saw is a 16" Wenzloff & Sons tenon saw (10 tpi) ...



Three kerfs ...



Deepened with a Japanese Azebiki ...



... and split out with a firmer chisel ...



A Bahco carbide scraper cleans up ...



The result ...





Final cleanup was aided by the only shoulder plane that fitted inside the space :)  ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline cider

  • Posts: 8
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2020, 11:42 AM »
I noticed the grain direction thingy, but just assumed you know what you're doing--and you do :)  Thanks for showing the challenges you run into and your solutions.  I'm came here for the eye candy, but learned a lot from your decision-making process.

BTW, I noticed you marked all the drawer fronts at once.  Does your blade kerf match the drawer gap?

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2020, 11:48 AM »
Quote
BTW, I noticed you marked all the drawer fronts at once.  Does your blade kerf match the drawer gap?

It is a bit of an illusion. I marked one, cut it, butted the next against it, cut that, butted the third ....

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #27 on: February 16, 2020, 10:57 AM »
As a reminder, we are building a version of this table ...



The plan is to attach the legs, which were made near the start of this project.



The attachment method is by inserting the legs into compound angle mortices in a base, which will be fixed to the carcase with a tapered sliding and stopped dovetail. We don't mess about here! :)

It will be necessary to do this over two articles, the first being the base for the legs, which will be dovetailed (tails). The second will be the socket (pins) for the base.

Before we begin, I want to mention what I did at the end of the last session. I had replaced the central drawer dividers as the grain ran in the wrong direction. The spacers at the ends also did so, and my response was to cut out half the spacer ...



Well, I fretted over the end spacers, and just could not leave them this way. Encouraged by the way the halves had come out cleanly, I removed the remainder and replaced the spacers with correctly grained versions ...



OK, onto the leg base ...

I spent a while playing with angles for the legs, and finally accepted this (mocked up base) ...





I have drilled angled mortices with a brace on a number of occasions. This time I decided to used a drill press and some Japanese Star-M augers, which are specially designed for this type of work (no lead screws). I built a 10 degree ramp for the resultant angle. The auger is 30mm ...



[

The tenon is straight, but the mortice will receive a slight reaming, and the tenon will be glued and wedged. This is probably overkill since the weight of the case rests on the legs.



These are the bases for the legs. The final prototype is at the rear ...



Drilling the bases ...



The design requires that the legs do not go over the boundary of the case (to avoid tripping over them) ...





This is how they should be ...



There was a small dilemma: The base at one side measures 3" from the end ...



... and the other side measures 1/4" further ...



I could not work out how this occurred. The angles are the same. In fact, I made another set of bases, and the same error showed up again - exactly the same! 

So what to do? Actually, the decision was obvious after a little think - make the bases the same. What is more likely to be noticed is if the bases are different distances from the sides. No one will notice a 1/4" difference where the legs hit the ground. So be it.

This is one of the bases for dovetailing ...



First step is to remove a 2mm taper from one side. The taper will be on the inside of the base, with the outside parallel to the side of the case.

Taper line drawn ...



Easiest way to do this is with a #604 smoother ..



This is the one end of the base ...



.. and this is the other end ...



mmmm .... 0.39 mm oversize. What to do ...?    I'm kidding   :) 

The dovetails will be 7mm deep. A shoulder was planed with a rebate plane ...



The squareness of this rebate is important, so check ...



The dovetail is now to be created, and the preparatory step is to colour the outer edge of the rebate with a sharpie. This will warn that the planing does not lower the external edge of the rebate.



The dovetail is created with a modified Stanley #79 edge plane ...



The fence has a 1:6 ratio wedge ...



Details of this dovetail plane here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html

The result of planing. That is a 1:6 dovetail marker ...



So what are the numbers for the taper? This will give an indication of the accuracy of the joint.

One end is 44.12mm ...



... and the other is 46.46mm, which is a difference of 2.34mm.



This will work - the pin socket is measured from this (in the same way as dovetails for a drawer.

The reason for the 7mm depth? The case is 20mm thick. the dovetail should be about 1/3 of this thickness. I decided to take it to the depth of the rebate for the rear panel ...



So, here is one of the completed bases ...



And this is where it will be fitted ...



Regards from Perth

Derek
« Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 11:11 AM by derekcohen »

Offline Bert Vanderveen

  • Posts: 616
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #28 on: February 16, 2020, 11:07 AM »
Wouldn’t it have been easier (and more in line with the MidCent style) to bore the holes into the bases at a straight angle, with the bases 4C’d, and shape the bases afterwards to obtain the desired splay of the legs? [My dad did it that way for smallish side tables he made in the late sixties — all of my aunts and uncle had those in their homes at one time.)
Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

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Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #29 on: February 16, 2020, 11:14 AM »
Bert, the 20mm thick case is too thin to hold the tenon. Morticing directly into a 20mm case is a recipe for later failure.

In the case of much of these pieces in the 50's, the legs were screwed in with a single bit into a mechanical fastener. Ugh.

Regards from Perth

Derek
« Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 11:35 AM by derekcohen »

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 945
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2020, 02:04 PM »
It’s coming along nicely now Derek, so much detail and precision.
I sometimes pop in to see an old retired, and almost famous in the know master cabinet maker.
He is in his early 90’s now, and still keeps his hand in. I have shown him some of your threads and work whenever I have the iPad with me. He always takes his time gazing, and makes lots of praising comments. His words are like a seal of approval, to any of us lucky enough to receive them.  [thumbs up]

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Offline Bert Vanderveen

  • Posts: 616
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #31 on: February 16, 2020, 03:26 PM »
I think I did not explain very well. So here is a quick sketch:

Cheers, Bert Vanderveen

TS55 · TS55R · OF1010 · DF500 Mk2 · MFT/3 + TSB1-MW 1000 + VL + CMS TS55 + CMS PS300 + LA-CS 70/CMS · CTL Midi · RTS400 EQ · 2 x CXS Li 1,5 · T15+3 Li 4,2 · TI15 Impact Li 4,2 · Centrotec Sets 2008 + 2015 · PSB300 · LR32-SYS · RO150 · Kapex KS120 · 2 x MFK700 · RO90 · OFK700 · BS75 · OFK500 · OF2200 · CMS-GE · Vecturo 18 Li … | Mirka 1230L P&C | Hammer A3 31 Silent Power · Hammer N4400 · Hammer HS950 

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2020, 05:52 PM »
Hi Bert

Thanks for the discussion. It is much appreciated.

What you have drawn is a blind mortice-and-tenon joint. It is shallow. What I have done is create a through joint, which means that the mortice-and-tenon is 30mm deep in a separate base. The grain of the base runs across the grain of the case, however the base is a sliding dovetail, which permits it to be locked in, but also free to expand towards the rear of the case (it will only be glued at the front of the socket).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #33 on: February 17, 2020, 11:45 AM »
Following hot on the heels of the last post, where we created the male or tail section of the tapered sliding dovetail, now comes the female or pin socket to house the base for the legs.



These are the bases. This post will focus on the socket for the one closest the camera.



The base is positioned exactly 3 1/4" from the side. The tapered side is on the inside, with the outside face square to the front and rear of the case ...



This process is essentially the same as transferring marks from the tail- to the pin board with drawers.

The base tapers towards the toe, that is, the sliding dovetail will tighten up as the base is pushed into the socket.

The first step is to register the far end of the base in such a way that the position is repeatable. This is done by placing a long board along the "square" side. The position for the end of the board is marked ...



Now the base can be stood up to mark inside the tail with a scratch awl. You can make out the mark aligning the baseline of the tail ...



Look carefully for the dots.



This is repeated at the other end.



The dots are now joined up ...



The plan is to saw the socket sides, as if sawing dovetails in a drawer. The angle ratio is 1:6, as it was with the base. Since the socket is blind or stopped, the saw needs to have space in which to begin the cut. An area at the toe is excavated with a router.

The depth of the cut is set using a 7.0mm drill bit. I am aware that the actual depth is 7.5mm, but this will be a second pass. I intend to clear the waste with the router - this Jarrah is bloody hard, and I am not a masochist! :)





Using an angled saw guide, the end is chopped to the line ..



Now this is space to register the azebiki saw ...



I have roughly marked a depth to aim for ...



Both sides have been sawn ...



The waste is removed with the router, leaving a few mm close to the sides ...



This is chopped away with a chisel in two passes, and then cleaned up with a hand router ...



The side rebate #79/dovetail plane is used to clean any rough sections ..



The power router drops a 0.5mm to 7.5mm and this is cleaned up ...



Amazingly, the base slides in and tightens up about 1/4" from the end. It will need a tap to be fully secure.



That's it for now.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Offline rmhinden

  • Posts: 251
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #34 on: February 17, 2020, 12:05 PM »
Very nice work!

Bob

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #35 on: February 22, 2020, 01:02 PM »
The legs are on. I must admit to mixed feelings at this stage. This is not my style of leg, but it is what my niece wants. Perhaps I will feel differently with a finish on the wood.





The tenons were kerfed for a wedge ...



Installed in the bases ...





And glued into the socket. Note that only the first third is glued. The rear is free to move ...



The bases have been shaped to reduce their impact ...





The legs were evened up ..



Side view from underneath (one does not see the base otherwise) ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

  • Posts: 1164
    • Jim Kirkpatrick Woodworking
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #36 on: February 22, 2020, 06:56 PM »
I think it looks nice.  That's saying something from me.  Nice design and execution!

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2020, 11:27 AM »
Thanks Jim

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

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Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #38 on: February 23, 2020, 11:28 AM »
It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers".

There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ...



The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ...



I've chosen the high road (sigh).

Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do.

The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness.

I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ...



No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together.



This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ...



The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick  ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial :)   .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ...



Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn.



The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner.

The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ...

First plough the bead ...



A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ...



Now flip the board around to plane the groove ...

The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove.



As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ...





... and then rip off the slip on the table saw.



This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ...



I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts.

First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ...



The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ...





On to the all-important drawer fronts!

I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ...



This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board.

Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ...



... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ...



A good result ...



This is the join I need to manage ...



These are the fronts fitted in sequence ...



And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2020, 09:11 AM »
The process of attaching of the legs was completed by the addition of two screws in the sliding dovetail base.

Why add screws? The screws are not to prevent the base sliding back (an elongated hole actually encourages this). It is just to prevent the base twisting in, and breaking out of, the socket since there is no glue there to prevent any lateral movement.

The force comes from the splayed and angled legs. They will want to cant outward, and this becomes more so when the three drawers are filled and a vase of flowers is placed on the top of the table.

I thought that it is worth mentioning the screws used and how they were inserted.

The screws are 1" long brass tapered wood screws. The drill bits are also tapered to match. These ones include a countersink and depth stop.



The plan is to drill the hole for the screw through the base and into the case, and then widen the hole in the base. This will permit the base to move with expansion and contraction. In this case 2mm each way.

A wider drill bit (and depth stop) ..



Before inserting a screw, especially brass screws, they are dipped in a little wax. This is wax for lubricating bandsaw blades ...



Here is the widened hole ...



The gap around the screw ...





The second screw is on the other side of the leg. This is positioned about half way between the end screw and the glued toe.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline KelleyCrafts

  • Posts: 5
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #40 on: February 24, 2020, 10:40 AM »
Very Nice Derek! I use eucalyptus a lot. Very similar to the Jarah you are using if not the same thing. It grows huge here in Arizona so it's what I use most. Can be difficult to work sometimes, very dense and brittle. Beautiful stuff.

Looking forward to seeing the figure on that piece when the finish goes on. Very well done on the mitered dovetailed corners as well. Great build.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #41 on: February 25, 2020, 08:24 AM »
Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go.

This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head.



The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw.

A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ...



Drilled to depth ...



A steel washer added ...



Done ...



I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2020, 09:05 AM »
I put the last screws in after work. That will free up this weekend to concentrate on building the drawers.

There are three screws. The one at the toe is fixed and there is no play for any movement. The two at the rear can slide 2mm each way.





Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #43 on: March 01, 2020, 11:56 AM »
This is the part where we begin building one-piece lipped drawers (as contrasted with applied fronts).

In preparing for this part of the build, my research uncovered exactly one article on dovetailing lipped drawer fronts. This is by Christian Becksvoort in Fine Woodworking magazine (#263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue). Interesting that.

Why lipped drawer fronts? Simply because the three drawers must run continuously across the front, without a gap between them.



The lipped sides will wrap around the drawer dividers, and these will double as drawer stops. This will be illustrated in a short while.

The lipped ends create a challenge to form the pins/sockets for the tailed drawer sides since it becomes difficult to saw. I have a novel solution :)

We begin by marking where the lipped sides will be. This is knifed in through from the rear of the case ...



The marks are knifed with a cutting gauge.

The distance from the edge is exactly the same for each board - 6mm. The side spacers are 6mm wide and the two central drawer dividers are 12mm thick, of which each lip is half this thickness.



The drawer front is rebated with a moving filletster plane ...



With both sides rebated, the centre must fit snuggly between the drawer dividers ...



... and leave exactly half of the dividers remaining ...





Side-by-side, perfect fit ...



The rebates are fine-tuned with a cutting gauge, ensuring that they are even and square ...



This measure is transferred to the drawer side ...



I took the time to lay out the dovetails on a scrap as a template. This saves a lot of repeated layouts ...



Tails done ...



The tail board with be placed here, but with the lip extending past ...



This is what it would look like if dovetailed ...



To make it easier to see what I am sawing, I am using blue tape ...



Transferring the tails to the pin board is made a little easier as the rebate is a handy stop ..





Marked out produces this ...



And that is where it stops being straight forward as this is as much as it is possible to saw inside the lines ...



I decided that, if I could not saw it, I would chop it. This gives new meaning to "chopping dovetails" :)

The pin board is clamped (to avoid any splitting), and the kerfing chisel is used to deepen the existing half-kerf, and then extend it across the socket ...





Now the waste is chopped out ...





This picture of a fishtail chisel cleaning the corner of the socket is for bill :)



Does it fit? Oh, the suspense!





Two more to go.

Regards from Perth

Derek




Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #44 on: March 02, 2020, 11:14 AM »
Today I completed the second and third drawer fronts ...



Since I had only come across one article on making the lipped drawers - and that predominantly used power tools - and failed to find a single video on the topic, I decided to make one myself:



This is a real-time video - no editing. So skip the parts as they bore you. Hopefully some of it will amuse. Or watch at bedtime if you are insomniac :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #45 on: March 07, 2020, 01:34 PM »
The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process.

We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ...



... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ...



First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts ..



The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick).

Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top ..





Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it.

Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ...



... and even shooting ...



One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ...





There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ...



When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ...



I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ...



Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick ..



Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ...

This is the drawer divider in position ...



It is slid back ...



The first third of the dado receives glue ...



The drawer is replaced and positioned ..



And then the drawer divider is slid up against the rear of the lip ..



The drawer case is fine-tuned with the LN Rabbet Block Plane ...



This is used to smooth over any irregularities in the side walls and, where necessary, to plane away any fat ...



The drawers are in the process of being glued up. Drawer #3 cannot be glued up until a brass plate is recessed  into one side. T



Marked out, the waste routed, and then chiselled along the circumference ...





The drawer fronts are planed ...



Another dry assembly and check for fit ...



If there is any resistance to the drawer being pushed in-and-out, I test fit it from the rear. This shows whether the drawer or case needs some planing. Looking good here, as it goes right in ...



There is good drawer extension (about 80%) ...



The drawers are now glued up.

Lastly, for the day, the slips are attached. These began like this, grooved and beaded ...



A Jarrah runner is added below. The upper section of the slip is, as with the drawer sides and drawer bottoms, made from Tasmanian Oak. This is similar to US White Oak in hardness and wear. Since the drawers run on Jarrah, the wear properties are improved with the Jarrah wear section ...



Tomorrow should see the conclusion of the build.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

  • Posts: 1164
    • Jim Kirkpatrick Woodworking
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #46 on: March 08, 2020, 09:59 AM »
Really, really nice, Derek!  I especially think the plaque is a nice touch.  Can't wait to see the finished pics!

Offline jobsworth

  • Posts: 6072
  • Festool Baby.....
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #47 on: March 08, 2020, 12:26 PM »
really nice work Mate. Well done

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #48 on: March 10, 2020, 12:15 PM »
This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls.

A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ...



Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ...



Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ...



The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth.



Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ...



Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip.

The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm).



The tongue is planed ...



The fit is tested with a spare slip ...



The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ...



Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ...



Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer.



The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness.



Set up to make the pulls ...



A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick.



Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) ..



A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull  (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ...





The outlines are cut out ...



The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls  ...



The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider.

The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier  ...



The next post will show the completed hall table.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 945
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #49 on: March 10, 2020, 03:05 PM »
Beautiful!

Nice to see the MOF-177 earning it’s keep, I have one in good order that mainly sits in a router table. The other is brand new unused in it’s original box, on a shelf in the workshop (at least 30 odd years old)
I don’t know why we never used it? I think I bought two together and a recession hit, so work volume slowed, and it’s sat there ever since.
As you know, they’re are great routers.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #50 on: March 10, 2020, 07:43 PM »
JJ, the Elu177e is an excellent router. That one was purchased 30 years ago. I do have another in a router table ..





As you are probably aware, today these are sold as the DeWalt DW625.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 945
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #51 on: March 11, 2020, 03:27 AM »
Hi Derek, yes I’ve bought a few parts (dust extraction port etc) under the De Walt DW625 listing.
Still prefer Elu grey to De Walt yellow though  [wink]

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #52 on: March 14, 2020, 09:57 AM »
My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney.

This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ...



I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable.

Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive.

Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad.

The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about :)

A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night.

At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. :)

Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall  ....



The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah.





A close up the waterfall on one side ...



... and on the other ...



The obligatory dovetail shot ...



Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak.









Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties.



As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ...



Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers.





Now those drawer handles ...

I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ...



Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ...



The internal bevels around the case ...



... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ...



Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open.



Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! :)

And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ...



Thanks for coming along for the ride.

Regards from Perth

Derek





Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #53 on: March 14, 2020, 11:40 AM »
A couple of extras ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 945
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #54 on: March 14, 2020, 12:20 PM »
Derek, that really is a work of art, and demonstrates a lot of techniques and fine detail.
It will be loved and admired for many years to come, without doubt. It reminds me of some pieces I saw at an exhibition a few years back.
There were pieces, that the more you looked at, the more detail and craftsmanship you uncovered. Very much like your table.

I will show it to my old retired cabinet maker friend, he will really appreciate the detail.
[thumbs up]

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #55 on: March 14, 2020, 12:41 PM »
Thanks Jiggy for all your kind words and encouragement. I welcome the critique of your friend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline tallgrass

  • Posts: 906
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #56 on: March 15, 2020, 02:41 AM »
Amazing work!

Offline pixelated

  • Posts: 195
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #57 on: March 15, 2020, 06:45 AM »
Derek, Your niece is a very fortunate lady to have you as an uncle. Beautiful work, thank you for sharing the project.

Offline BarneyD

  • Posts: 88
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #58 on: March 15, 2020, 05:23 PM »
Hi Derek,

That is an exceptionally nice piece. Just gorgeous. I'm sure your niece will cherish it.  I hope some day to reach a skill level approaching yours. And thank you for taking the time to document the build. Your photos and explanations are superb. I really appreciate the effort.

Many years ago I made several business trips to your side of the country. On one trip I happened into a home center down in Collie and was amazed to see Jarrah being offered for deck boards. Over here the stuff is rare and precious. It is truly beautiful. 

Thanks again.
Barney

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

  • Posts: 1164
    • Jim Kirkpatrick Woodworking
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #59 on: March 15, 2020, 06:04 PM »
Derek,  All I can say is, this thread is akin to when I discovered my first Playboy as an adolescent.  Woodworking porn!  You are The Man.  Cheers!
Jim

Online FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 241
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #60 on: March 15, 2020, 07:14 PM »
Derek, I too have been following your project with great interest.
Even down to how you present your hand tools in the pictures. I envy you your selection, and I notice your care with your tools.
It is truly inspirational work - it makes me itch for doing hands on hand tool work.
You have some lucky family members!

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Offline Schummie

  • Posts: 11
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #61 on: March 18, 2020, 06:33 AM »
Derek, this is really a work of art, what a beautiful piece of woodworking  [eek]
Thank you for all the great pictures.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 410
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Entry hall table for a niece
« Reply #62 on: March 23, 2020, 03:19 AM »
Thanks all for your kind words and inspiration along the way.

Take care and stay safe in the troubled months ahead.

Regards from Perth

Derek