Author Topic: Bed frames  (Read 3268 times)

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Offline Wood_Junkie

  • Posts: 1313
Bed frames
« on: August 13, 2010, 09:22 PM »
My daughters are each getting a new bed frame (identical).  They are 3 & 5 years old and share a big room/
 
My wife had some specific requirements, and the room has some weird necessities as well.
Wife:  Squarish legs, she hates tapers; a beadboard (or like) head/foot board panel.  White
Room:  The girls' beds are in front of an awning style window (cranks out at a vertical angle), and the ceiling is at an angle.  As such, the bottom of the window frame is only 36" from the floor.  So the headboard had to be low enough to not block the light.  Keep proportions the same meant a low footboard as well.
 
Here's a photo of the assembled headboard and footboards.  I had to assemble this on my dining room table, as all other work space is holding the other bed's parts... or junk... or other projects that are paused.
24934-0

24936-1

 
I attempted to make this a Festool "pure" project.  This was a huge learning step for me, trying to re-orient certain tasks that I would normally do with a table saw and some jigs.  It was my first use of the OF1400.
> I used the TS55 to straight line rip the rough board, so I could joint and plane them
 
> I also used the TS55 & MFT to cross cut things to remove waste areas (checking; knots, etc)
 
> I used the Parallel Guides, rail, and TS55 to cut out the MDF panels, square and of the same size
 
> I used the parallel guides, rail, various clamps, and OF1400 with the guide rail adapter to route the "bead" grooves on the MDF panels.  They are 4" on center, starting 3/4" from each side.  I used a Woodpecker story stick with tabs to mark all of these in one pass.  Lovely.  I routed the beads doing both the head and foot portions at the same time, then cutting the panel into respective pieces.  This way I could guarantee each set is parallel and same-space with its partner.
> Used the guide rail and TS to cut panels to final size and identical (gang cut).
 
> Sanded with RTS400.  Since it's going to be painted I wasn't worried about micro swirl marks.  The size was perfect for the small rails and such.  I also used the Festool 80x133 hand sanding pad to cleanup the roundovers.
 
> I used the Domino to route the 8mm mortises on the panel rails.  One mortise is 37mm from the edge utilizing the pins.  The other is 2.75" from edge on the top rail, and 3.5" from the edge on the lower rail.  I spent only about 2 minutes total marking all 8 locations for a Domino.  Most of that was adjusting my LV Sliding Square (nice big edge to register and be square).
The rails are 1" thick.  A piece of cardstock folded 4 times and inserted between the "25" setting centers the mortise within a hair.  This cheapo method made for a repeatable setting (feeler gauges would be better, yeah...)
 
> MFT800 was used in the collapsed position on top of my basement workbench for clamping and doing Dominos.  Used two sets of the clamping elements.  This was great as I could clamp two rails in place at the same time, route, flip, route, and repeat with the other rails.
Routing all the mortises (16 mortises total for the 8 rails) took about 10 minutes total.  A few minutes of that was switching panels.  That is less than 15 minutes total to mark and create 16 mortises!!  This is when the Domino pays for itself.
 
> After cutting the leg posts to final length (they are 2" square) with my miter saw, I used the Domino to create the mortises in those.  I eyeballed a setting of 25 1/2"mm on the scale to closely center the mortise 1" from edge. But as we all know with the Domino, centering isn't *essential*, as long as you reference the same face of each part.  I figured a hairsbreadth wouldn't affect the visual centering of the rails and panel on the posts.  It is true.
 
> Used dust collection throughout (mostly CT Midi) and it was great.
 
 
Non-Festool steps that had to be done.  Boo
-- Used my table saw to make final sizing cuts on the post legs and the rails.  Speed, repeatability, and safety were the reason (safety because they are very narrow pieces).
-- Used my router table to route a centered 1/2" groove the length of each rail, to house the MDF panel.
-- Used my trim router to roundover all edges of the rails and posts.  I could have used my oh-so-recently acquired OF1010, but the handheld and cordless trim router is just too darn easy to use quickly and without extra supports on these small parts.
-- Final length cuts were with miter saw.  I could've used MFT and guide flag and TS55... but it was *DANG* hot and humid out.  So I opted to use my mini miter saw in the basement.
 
 
A couple random observations:
* Bench Cookies played a huge role in the above cutting steps, as I didn't want to cut into my "virgin" MFTs.  I have one MFT that is designated for cutting, but needed to expand onto the others for the various steps.  Unfortunately, I cut into two of the cookies...  I think I'mma get some orange ones as replacements...
 
* The new "clear" rail splinterguard really is a lot easier to see cut lines and what-not.  Especially in my not so well lit garage.
 
* The outrigger foot on the OF1400 works pretty well. But when I had to cut very close to the edge, I reversed the router so the foot was on the "inside" of the router.  This was a lot more unstable and left some flex in the router height.  I plan to make a router "ski" as another member showed in a thread.
 
* Dang the MFT is handy!!!  I wound up ordering another MFT800 late last week (while its still available!), as having the additional side table, and extending the length of my 1080 was really critical and valuable.
 
* The OF routers are SO easy to adjust the plunge depth.  The guide rail adapter is great, not allowing any flex in the router positioning.
 
* I really saw the benefits of the Plug-It cord and moving the dust hose from tool to tool, as I was using several tools sequentially and switching between one and the other.
 
 
I meant to take pictures as I worked on this, but was trying to hurry, so I can paint it this weekend.  Thus far, I have about 10 hours into this project (for both beds).  At least and hour of that was squaring up my MFT and learning to use the OF1400.  Painting is going to take another 2-3 hours.  So, at the end I figure with the whole thing done I'll have about 15 hours in it.
Material costs is approximately $250.
 
The alternative was to buy two beds from Pottery Barn or Land's End, for about $400 each.  Factoring in materials, I was "earning" about $37 an hour, plus it's the right size and I learned a bunch.  Yay!
 
 Edit:  I forgot, I also spent about 2 hours designing it while also learning to use Sketchup.  Learned a ton, and it was great to have finished dimensions for everything.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2010, 09:27 PM by Wood_Junkie »

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