I am remodeling my kitchen.  Basically, a reface and new floors and replacing appliances.

The current setup has a stove top (recently replaced with an good (read “expensive”) GE induction stovetop. 

I now have to replace the wall oven.

The stove top cost more than an entire electric oven, but had newer (and very desirable) technology (inductions heating). 

So I understand why that cost more.

But why does a wall oven cost twice what a entire stove does?  This is pretty standard technology.

So, what gives?

I could have bought an entire stove with induction cook top for less than half what the two separate pieces are going to cost me. 

When I moved into my house in 1999, the home inspector checked the function of the current wall oven.  It has not been turned on since. 

So the big bucks are killing me.  I need to replace the 1950s era wall oven or the house will be unsellable when I move (a few years from now). 

The cheapest I have found locally is $1,200.00.  I will have to remove the old oven to see how much room I have.  Apparently the 30” is cheaper and more readily available than a 27” (which I think I have).

I do think I have room to open the space up both in height and width.  But I won’t be able to tell until I remove the oven.

I have a great deal of respect for electricity (due to an accident I had when I was a teen).

If I turn off the circuit breaker for the oven, and I check to see that it will not light up after I do, will it be safe for me to remove the oven from the wall?  Is there going to be any residual risk even with the circuit breaker off?

I have a good electrician and I might call him.  I suspect that pulling the oven will be a 2-man job.

I will also have to find out what electrical service I have to the oven.  It may dictate which oven I buy.

Separating oven and cooktop is a luxury.  From
a logistics standpoint and a power/gas delivery standpoint.
 
Therefore, more can be charged, since wall ovens are sold to people with larger kitchens and larger budgets. 

Apparently the 30” is cheaper and more readily available than a 27” (which I think I have).

This is at least 60% of the reason for the increased price, if not more. (not to say that it should be 60% more expensive, just that the non-standard size is the biggest determining factor in the price)

Our home has a standard sized wall oven.  It is apparent but not obvious that the original stove from 1961 was a different size.

I remember the oven from my grandparents' house before my aunt remodeled it; the oven AND radar-range microwave were both wall-mounted, much smaller than today, and to replace like-for-like would have been a fool's errand unless you were intentionally trying to preserve history (a Lustron all-steel home, for example).

Your oven should be on a double-wide 220v breaker, if you have breakers.  I would hope it would also be labeled.  If it's on a 220v breaker, shutting off the breaker should shut off the light as well as the oven functions.  Much like an electric dryer, one of the phases should be separated out inside the unit itself to run the 110V electronics, bulbs, etc.

If you're unsure, you could always shut off power to the entire house, but that's a bit overkill.

Be glad it's not a 24" 

Re: safety, you've got about 99% odds of being just fine, the way you described it.  Breaker off, confirm lights are out.  Done

BUT.  Ovens are split phase, and electricians are not infallible.  If you have a meter or non-contact volt tester, it only takes a minute to uncover the terminal block, and verify.  Any of the "whip" lines that connect the oven to the wall (red black white and sometimes green) should read approx 0Vac, referencing ground with the opposite lead.  Trace readings, like less than 1V, can be safely ignored.

Regarding the electrical to your wall oven.  If you turn off the 220 volt double pole circuit breaker for the oven, you are good.  And all of the lights and electronics go dark.  HOWEVER, still get a volt meter.  They are real cheap.  Amazon has them for $9, $10, $12, $13.  Search for "volt meter".  Your local Home Depot or Menards or Lowes or True Value will also have them.  Not as cheap though.  Once you get the electrical opened up and you can see where the wires connect.  Put one of the ends on the ground/green/bare wire, and the other on the black or red connection.  Should be zero.  Keep one wire on the ground/green/bare and move the other prong to touch everything else.  Then move the former ground toucher to the white connection.  And move the other prong to touch everything else one at a time.  Everything should read zero, if the power is off.  Just to be safe.

Maybe it's a US thing. Over here (speaking as an installer of 300+ kitchens) = separate hobs and ovens always cost w-a-a-a-a-y less than a freestanding 2-in-1 combi cooker.

Sort of. 

It's customary for most homes to have a 30" range (free standing cooker for you in the UK).  This means that the overwhelming majority of homes for the last 50+ years have them and makes it the largest market by far.  Just about everyone makes and sells one , even the fancypants designer brands.


But -  your assertion that separates always cost less is simply not true.    A 60cm range/cooker can be had from these guys in London for just over 200 quid. Which is cheaper than any combo from them.

But.............I agree with your underlying premise that separates are cheaper in the UK.  That's because cookers are not the norm, customary, or largest sellers.  At least in my experience.

Quote from: Packard on May 19, 2023, 03:21 PM

    Apparently the 30” is cheaper and more readily available than a 27” (which I think I have).


This is at least 60% of the reason for the increased price, if not more. (not to say that it should be 60% more expensive, just that the non-standard size is the biggest determining factor in the price)

used to be 27" ovens were the standard size...................end of last century.  Having been replaced by 30" , there just aren't as many manuf. / choices these days.  hence the increased relative prices.