Author Topic: Removing NP-1 from brick  (Read 13539 times)

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Offline Jon Hilgenberg

  • Posts: 1113
Removing NP-1 from brick
« on: July 16, 2011, 11:19 AM »
I'm trying to help out a builder that I do a lot of business with (I'm not doing the removal, but he asked me if I had any good ideas), and he's in a pickle.  The painter he hired used np-1 to caulk the windows to the brick and did a crappy job.  Homeowner hates it and wants it redone, but the problem according to the homeowner is that using any type of wire brush will ruin the finish on the brick.

Any ideas?  Anyone had to do this before?

Thanks,

Jon
The more Festools I buy, the more money I earn.  The more money I earn, the more Festools I buy.  The more...
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Offline Alex

  • Posts: 6154
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2011, 11:50 AM »
Can't say I'm familiar with the exact formula if NP-1 but I've removed caulking many times and my general approach is this:

1 - Cut away with a box cutter or peel away by hand what you can,
2 - Use a strong solvent like mineral spirits on a cloth and wipe the remaining caulk away after letting it dissolve. A scraper also helps. If you don't want to use mineral sprits there are also dedicated caulk removers you can buy (at least here in Europe).

If this is done with care the surface underneath should remain unaffected. But it's always a tedious time consuming job.

Offline Holzhacker

  • Posts: 926
    • www.aic-chicago.com
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2011, 12:58 PM »
I agree with Alex on his method. It is important to cut away / peel away as much as possible before using any kind of solvent. I use an old chisel or stiff short knife to get behind the caulk and gently try to peel it off in strips. Sometimes it works well, sometimes not so well. I prefer steel wool over a wire brush. If the client thinks the wire brush is going to ruin the finish on the brick then I would definitely tape the capping, sills and any related stuff before using any solvent or brush. Of course we all know that brick is so fragile  [blink]
Couple other notes...
- If you have an RO90 using the Delta pad might be a good option to get the final bits of caulk off. I have not tried this but it sounds possible.
- If this is a smooth brick the following won't matter. However if you are dealing with a cut or wire style face brick, this may help you.
Before applying your actual finish caulk, brown, ivory, whatever. Apply a thin bead of clear caulk along where you think your finish caulk line will be. WHAT? I know it sounds dumb but it works. The clear caulk will fill the void in the cut/wire brick and disappear essentially, its clear. Once that dries it provides a nice smooth surface for you to run your final caulk onto and you can maintain a nice clean line. Obviously the previous guy might have just sucked. When applying caulk to a wire brick maintaining a clean line is difficult because the caulk follows the voids and gets all jagged looking. I've done this many times and it works nice. I do the clear on all the needed windows first, let stuff dry and come back and do the colored. Big window job this would obviously be a real time sink. I normally only do it around 1st floor or entry windows. If the client can see a bad caulk job on the 2nd floor then you have bigger issues.
I stopped using NP-1 years ago because clean up and working was a _itch. I'm a Solarseal guy, love the stuff.
Hope that helps, Markus
"The Code is not a ceiling to reach but a floor to work up from"

Offline Jon Hilgenberg

  • Posts: 1113
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2011, 05:55 PM »
I had a feeling there would be no magic bullet, and that it would be old fashioned elbow grease to get the job done.

Did I mention this was a new house ? [scared].  The builder is on his third paint contractor...what a nightmare.  Also, all of the interior trim was painted in latex, when is should have been oil, and it has to be sanded down.  Told them about granat sandpaper and they looked at me like I was speaking Chinese. 

Thanks for the replies guys. 

Jon
The more Festools I buy, the more money I earn.  The more money I earn, the more Festools I buy.  The more...
TS 55, TS 75, Domino, CT22, OF 2000, C12, CXS, RAS, Trion, Fogtainers!

Offline fidelfs

  • Posts: 527
  • Houston, TX
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2011, 09:32 PM »
I am not a pro but this could you save some time with the trim.  Benjamin Moore has a paint water based with alkiyd, in other words "oil" pait water base.  It is called advance by benjamin moore, you can paint over the trim without sanding and get the oil look and durability.

I could be talking B.S. Like I said I am not a pro.
There is never a situation where it can't be done with the right hand tool - even though it may be a lot more work.

Offline Roger Savatteri

  • Posts: 506
    • www.savatteridesigns.com
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2011, 05:06 AM »
.
hmmm,

If I had that pickle in my hand, I might want to reach for my Fein Multimaster with one of their smaller blades to poke away at the caulk.
That or my Festool LS130 with the scraper attachment.
see /  http://www.festoolusa.com/products/sanders/other-accessories/scraper-491199.html

Now,
After you get that all cleaned up one tool that I have found most useful when doing the caulking application (don't laugh) [scared] is the Ryobi 18 volt Caulk gun.
see /  http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/caulking-sealants/ryobi/18v-caulk-gun-54620.html
also view /  http://video.answers.com/ryobi-cordless-caulking-gun-product-review-244080633

There is a speed setting that allows you to regulate the amount of caulk that is leaving the gun. For someone that doesn't apply caulk everyday I find this a godsend.

cheers.
Los Angeles, California

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 6109
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2011, 10:44 AM »
I have to agree with Roger 100%. Use the Multi Master with the caulk blade. NP-1 is does not cure all the way through and is self mending. It will be tacky to work with. Experimenting with the speed setting is key. Spray the blade with non-stick cooking spray, they are water soluble, it should not discolor the brick, or create a bonding issue with the new caulk.

When recaulking, use backer rod where needed. Push the caulk into the joint, do not "pull" it into the joint. If you have to "tool" it with your finger, cooking spray works here also, just spray it on a rag then tool away.

Tom

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 6109
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Removing NP-1 from brick
« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2011, 11:58 PM »
Tom,
I'm shocked!!!!!  YOU giving caulking advice??   

Just busting your chops.  I hope you are well.

I received the above in a PM.

I did a caulk job that went terribly wrong. I had forgot my gun and borrowed one. It was a piece of garbage. So I spent today cutting out caulk joints and redoing them. Leson learned, when your brain says "stop, do this another day" listen.

I have been informed by the creator of the PM, I WILL NEVER HEAR THE END OF THIS.

Tom