Author Topic: ipe deck  (Read 6210 times)

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Offline b_m_hart

  • Posts: 415
ipe deck
« on: February 28, 2014, 12:11 PM »
I need to sand and poly a new deck.  It's all ipe, should I just do a couple of quick sanding passes, then poly it?  Is there a range of grits that's usually best to stay within while sanding? 

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Offline w802h

  • Posts: 221
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2014, 01:13 PM »
If it's newly milled IPE you may find that you get sticker marks when you go to finish it.  It's not going to rot, you may want to let it season. 

Offline b_m_hart

  • Posts: 415
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2014, 01:15 PM »
It's been in place for 4 or 5 months at this point - it seemed like it was time to get to work on it.

Offline amt

  • Posts: 379
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2014, 02:20 PM »
There are not many finishes that will stay on Ipe.  I would suggest starting with the penetrating oil like Waterlox first.

Offline Scott Burt

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Re: ipe deck
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2014, 07:26 PM »
There are not many finishes that will stay on Ipe.  I would suggest starting with the penetrating oil like Waterlox first.

Agree. There aren't many finishes that will stay on ipe. The best bet is to smooth talk one into staying IN it.

Here are some tips: http://topcoatreview.com/2011/06/ipe-deck-finish-5-things-not-to-do/

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 6131
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2014, 10:08 PM »
Another vote for no coating, just oil.

Than again the coating may just peel off in one sheet making it easy to apply the oil latter.

Tom

Offline Kevin D.

  • Posts: 965
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2014, 10:16 PM »
I've been researching a lot on Ipe for our deck to be buit next summer and oil is it, wipe on and wipe off once a year or so.
Kapex, CT-SYS, SYS-Cart, Pro 5 Sander, CT36AC, TS75, MFT 1080, MF-SYS/2, PS300 EQ-Plus, Parallel Guides Set, LR32 SYS, RO 150FEQ-Plus, OF1400 EQ Plus, DOMINO 500 Q-Plus,  Domino XL, MFK 700 EQ-Set, FS-SYS/2, CT22 w/hose storage, D36HW-RS-Plus, FS 1900/2, FS 3000/2, FS 1080/2-LR32, FS 1400/2-LR32, Gecko, Festool Floor Mat, Festool Stein, Multi-Tool, tape measure, large and small Festool floor mats (foam rubber).

Offline Walk On Wood

  • Posts: 277
    • Walk On Wood
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2014, 10:17 PM »
I've worked with Ipe a bunch. This is an outside deck, correct? Exposed to the elements? I would recommend Sikkens penetrating finish. (I forget the name of the actual product, i believe it is Sikkens followed by 3 letters)
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Offline b_m_hart

  • Posts: 415
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2014, 12:30 AM »
I've worked with Ipe a bunch. This is an outside deck, correct? Exposed to the elements? I would recommend Sikkens penetrating finish. (I forget the name of the actual product, i believe it is Sikkens followed by 3 letters)

Yes, the back deck.  I've got about 213498723409287340987 things on the to-do list still for the "new" place, but I need to get around to this sooner rather than later I think.

Offline Kevin D.

  • Posts: 965
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2014, 03:39 AM »
Think about it.  Ipe is 3 to 10 times the hardness of maple.  Maple is a hard enough to get any penetration, Ipe is a dog.  I'm not the expert here, but solid coatings are way more difficult to deal witrh in maintenance than an annual oil application I would think. 

Just sayin' I've yet to read that anything other than a specific oil for Ipe is anything that should be used every year or two depending on specific wera/tear/sunlight issues.  Please somebody who TRULY knows their SHEET rhyme in please.  I'd like to know a bonafide truth as well.  So far what I've read numerous times seems to say that oil is the way to deal with Ipe properly versus actaul coatings.
Kapex, CT-SYS, SYS-Cart, Pro 5 Sander, CT36AC, TS75, MFT 1080, MF-SYS/2, PS300 EQ-Plus, Parallel Guides Set, LR32 SYS, RO 150FEQ-Plus, OF1400 EQ Plus, DOMINO 500 Q-Plus,  Domino XL, MFK 700 EQ-Set, FS-SYS/2, CT22 w/hose storage, D36HW-RS-Plus, FS 1900/2, FS 3000/2, FS 1080/2-LR32, FS 1400/2-LR32, Gecko, Festool Floor Mat, Festool Stein, Multi-Tool, tape measure, large and small Festool floor mats (foam rubber).

Offline Walk On Wood

  • Posts: 277
    • Walk On Wood
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2014, 07:26 AM »
Actually, its about 2 1/2 times as hard.  Janka scale to verify: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test. On floors, i have coated roughly 20,000' of Ipe with absolutley no issues using Conversion Varnish (Glitsa/Synteko). Im sanding another 3000' in a few weeks.  Outdoors, a film building finish should absolutely be avoided, and a penetrating finish used. It would need to be reapplied annually.  Most Ipe decks i have seen are left untreated,they look their prettiest when they're wet.
The Green Kool-Aid is good!

Offline cgraham

  • Posts: 58
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2014, 08:28 AM »
I built my ipe deck five years ago and used Australian timber oil. I think it is from sikkens or Cabot. Easy to apply and a light washing allows a reapplication every other year. No complaints either it. At the time it was the only product that was guaranteed for use on ipe(but that was five years ago) by the way I am still using the original gallon(great sq ft coverage)

Offline lambeater

  • Posts: 481
Re: ipe deck
« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2014, 08:43 AM »
You are just better to oil it with penefin oil. My deck is Cumaru which is very similar. I oil it then buff off the excess oil after 20mins or before it becomes sticky. Only do it once a year. There are also lots of other finishes that do the same.

thx
Lambeater

Offline Scott Burt

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Re: ipe deck
« Reply #13 on: March 01, 2014, 10:51 AM »
Definitely use penetrating oil on ipe, no film forming coatings. Penofin Marine Grade is good, as is Armstrong Clark. Maintenance is key. At least annual, maybe more depending on exposure and wear.