Author Topic: Home Office Remodel  (Read 20283 times)

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Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #150 on: May 11, 2021, 10:51 AM »
I decided to have some fun with the 1010 with a guide bushing, MFK 700 with a 1/16" roundover bit, and my track saw to add a place for wires to go to the shelves. The track saw was the last step since I left the shelves too deep on purpose. I really like how these shelves are turning out.













Instagram @matts.garage

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Offline Cheese

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Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #151 on: May 11, 2021, 01:32 PM »
I'm liking the shelves with the thick fronts Matt...a real nice place to hide a LED strip behind. And with the nice relief you routed into the rear of the shelf for wiring I'd just rout another pathway on the underside to the front of the shelf for LED wires.

I know you originally wanted an adjustable LED system in case you moved the shelves, but if you think about, once the shelves are set, they rarely ever get moved. I don't think our kitchen shelves or the bookcase shelves in the office have been moved in 15-20 years. Besides, if you do move them it'll probably be just a couple of holes up or a couple of holes down, nothing that can't be compensated with some extra wire length that could be incorporated into a neat "roll up/wind up" system on the bottom of each shelf.

Just an idea... [smile]

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #152 on: May 11, 2021, 02:34 PM »
 [poke] [poke] @Cheese I'm listening. You have a point. A white wire going up the center of each cabinet wouldn't really be noticed if it was run neatly or covered. Plus with that setup I like that everything is accessible. I just couldn't get behind the idea of hiding wiring in areas I wouldn't be able to reach them if they failed for whatever reason.

I know next to nothing about LED lighting. I'm guessing I'd put a transformer/control unit in the center cabinet with doors, then run wires to each shelf, where self adhesive LED strips would be placed near the front behind the overhang of the maple lip?
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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8587
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #153 on: May 12, 2021, 09:50 AM »
[poke] [poke] @Cheese I'm listening. You have a point.
1. A white wire going up the center of each cabinet wouldn't really be noticed if it was run neatly or covered.

2. Plus with that setup I like that everything is accessible. I just couldn't get behind the idea of hiding wiring in areas I wouldn't be able to reach them if they failed for whatever reason.

3. I'm guessing I'd put a transformer/control unit in the center cabinet with doors, then run wires to each shelf, where self adhesive LED strips would be placed near the front behind the overhang of the maple lip?

This may get a bit lengthy Matt but stay with me.  [smile]

1. You'll be able to easily hide a pair of 16 or 18 gauge wires in the rear of the cabinet. You may even be able to run 20 gauge if the run isn't too long. 

2. You absolutely want to be able to easily access each component in the system. LED's don't last forever, usually in the 30,000 to 50,000 hour range, so it's something to think about if you decide to use these as "night lights".

3. For a transformer, in LED speak they're called drivers. I prefer Meanwell drivers because they're reliable, compact and inexpensive. I purchase my electronic stuff from Mouser because they have fast delivery and there is no minimum quantity. This is the LP series drivers however the AP series will also work. You're just looking for a constant voltage driver in the appropriate wattage & voltage. For a small system 12 volts will be fine. Here is a 60 watt/12 volt and a 20 watt/12 volt for the kitchen & bath respectively.

https://www.mouser.com/new/meanwell/meanwell-lp-power-supplies/




Now for the rest... [smile]...I'd absolutely use an aluminum profile screwed to the bottom of the shelf, that's the easiest method for assembly and servicing. Besides, the aluminum profile acts as a heat sink and will remove a lot of the heat from the LED tape strip and heat absolutely KILLS LED's and it also protects the LED's from damage with books/binders.  Besides, the profile will also accept a clear/frosted plastic lens. Here's a typical aluminum extrusion, LED tape, light cover and end cover.




I prefer placing a small connector near the LED, again easier for assembly & servicing. If something happens, you unplug the connector and remove the shelf. The connector also gives you an easy way to check for voltage and there are no wires to remove and re-run. I'm a fan of small Molex connectors.




Absolutely solder the wires to the LED tape. Do not use those quick attachment clips that they advertise. This is what can happen...this is pretty common.  [sad]  And this connector was purchased from one of the best in the business...Diode LED.






Place the LED driver in an area where you can also install a barrier terminal strip. So, 120 volts go in to the driver and 12 volts come out to the various LED runs. Here I also placed a Molex connector on the 14 gauge wires that go to the driver, while the individual runs are 18 gauge. In 99.99% of the time an LED will go bad or a driver will go bad but the wiring will be fine so it all stays in place. It's a lot easier to troubleshoot and repair with small connectors attached because the item can be brought to the bench.



More questions...feel free, you know where I live.  [big grin]
« Last Edit: May 12, 2021, 11:09 AM by Cheese »

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #154 on: May 12, 2021, 01:29 PM »
That is some sage advice @Cheese thank you for the pictures.

Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #155 on: May 12, 2021, 01:48 PM »
@Cheese , what kind of connectors are those that burned (in the fourth image)?  I've been using Molex connectors since the Dark Ages, and have never seen one get burned like that. 
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #156 on: May 12, 2021, 03:03 PM »
@Cheese , what kind of connectors are those that burned (in the fourth image)?  I've been using Molex connectors since the Dark Ages, and have never seen one get burned like that.

I believe those are the LED light strip connectors that friction fit over the end for the two wires to attach. I wonder if that's a fluke or something common as I know a guy on IG who fits those lights on a regular basis using the supplied friction connectors.
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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8587
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #157 on: May 12, 2021, 04:08 PM »
@Cheese , what kind of connectors are those that burned (in the fourth image)?  I've been using Molex connectors since the Dark Ages, and have never seen one get burned like that.

Hey Sparky, that's the Diode LED connection that I purchased for $6 each that I thought would mitigate the risk of push-on connections. That's what happened within 10 months of use with under-counter lighting in the kitchen.

I'd always read that there were issues with these type connectors but I figured if I was using Diode LED strips, then I would be safe by using their connector...not so much.

I've since just soldered any LED connection and that's worked really well. Easier to solder when the light strip hasn't yet been installed [smile] and it only takes 5-10 seconds once the iron is hot.


Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #158 on: May 29, 2021, 09:03 AM »
I bought some grommets to help with the wiring on the cabinets. I felt it would be easier/cleaner to rout out for them before paint using a circle template from Rockler:





They're a nice snug fit. Everything was going great until I oriented the jig the wrong way on the third panel and put the hole in the wrong spot.

After sleeping on it I was able to use the same jig and a different bushing and cutter to make a plug:









The fix should work out once I paint everything.

Matt

Instagram @matts.garage

Offline TSO_Products

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Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #159 on: May 29, 2021, 11:01 AM »
Matt and all you other contributors:
- what an informative and helpful thread for anyone considering one or more elements of this project - including handling of surprises.

Taking the time to illustrate the project adds that much more to the usefulness of all the helpful information!

Matt, you serve the FOG's "Just do it" Award - seriously.

Hans
PS: been just a tad busy at TSO this past year or so . . .

Offline dicktill

  • Posts: 342
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #160 on: May 29, 2021, 12:15 PM »
Nicely documented, Matt!  One suggestion, though - when you're joining two rails with the Betterley, I'd suggest that you use the
Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS, Item number 496938 to space the holey rails properly to get a consistent 32mm pattern at the join point.  Feel free to ping me if this doesn't make sense.   [smile]

@Sparktrician: Is this 496938 accessory different than the two blocks that come with the LR-32 kit?

Thanks, Dick

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #161 on: May 29, 2021, 12:19 PM »
Matt and all you other contributors:
- what an informative and helpful thread for anyone considering one or more elements of this project - including handling of surprises.

Taking the time to illustrate the project adds that much more to the usefulness of all the helpful information!

Matt, you serve the FOG's "Just do it" Award - seriously.

Hans
PS: been just a tad busy at TSO this past year or so . . .

Those are very kind words Hans. I'm just kind of making this up as I go. I envy those who had some form of formal training or apprenticeship.

I picked up 2 gallons Kem Aqua Plus this morning. I'll be off to painting before long.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #162 on: May 29, 2021, 01:02 PM »
Nicely documented, Matt!  One suggestion, though - when you're joining two rails with the Betterley, I'd suggest that you use the
Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS, Item number 496938 to space the holey rails properly to get a consistent 32mm pattern at the join point.  Feel free to ping me if this doesn't make sense.   [smile]

@Sparktrician: Is this 496938 accessory different than the two blocks that come with the LR-32 kit?

Thanks, Dick

@dicktill, it's the very same piece.   [smile]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #163 on: May 29, 2021, 04:52 PM »


This came in today. Playing around with it, it has a little wobble but should do nicely. I could really use two but I'm not convinced I would need the second on a regular basis.





For the amount of space it occupies and cost vs making something I couldn't do any better if I tried. 4 wing nuts and it stores pretty much flat.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Tom in SoCal

  • Posts: 124
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #164 on: May 30, 2021, 01:14 AM »
Matt and all you other contributors:
- what an informative and helpful thread for anyone considering one or more elements of this project - including handling of surprises.

Taking the time to illustrate the project adds that much more to the usefulness of all the helpful information!

Matt, you serve the FOG's "Just do it" Award - seriously.

Hans
PS: been just a tad busy at TSO this past year or so . . .

Ditto!  Thanks to all for sharing!

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 526
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #165 on: May 30, 2021, 08:33 AM »
This came in today. Playing around with it, it has a little wobble but should do nicely. I could really use two but I'm not convinced I would need the second on a regular basis.

For the amount of space it occupies and cost vs making something I couldn't do any better if I tried. 4 wing nuts and it stores pretty much flat.

Matt
I am impressed, that looks like a good deal of weight for it to carry.

Offline Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 497
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #166 on: May 31, 2021, 12:34 PM »
Cheese, that's great advice that I wish I had known about some time ago.
The first job I did in the temporary shop (after the fire) was to re-make a reception desk that had several rows of lights going along horizontal panels inside the wall itself. It was quite a pain in the first place. I had sections that would flicker or look like a different color temp and the connections were in hard to reach places (corners) and I wrestled with it way too long before submitting and going out to get a soldering iron. Then the next day, the fire killed it, so I had to do it over.
I did talk the supply buyer into getting some different lights and drivers, but is was still a difficult thing to thread through and wire up. At all times my concern was serviceability later. I just knew it would be an issue "someday". I didn't know how soon though. It was only a few months and one of the installers had to go back and deal with it. Fortunately it was just replacing one of the drivers, easily reached behind an access panel.
 Those sliding connectors suck. In the future, I would solder everything that needed this type of extension from the beginning.
The last little bar back wall that I did just had the round puck style lights that plugged in directly, it went well.
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Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #167 on: June 10, 2021, 07:47 AM »
I made some time yesterday to start on painting. I basically have to take off work if I want to do this which drags projects out for months.











I got my steps in and was exhausted by the end. Spray in the garage, dry in the house, sand in the basement. Two coats of primer, sanded in between and after with 25 parts. I must've ran up and down the stairs over 100 times. I'm always pretty rusty when I start spraying and make mistakes but I don't worry too much about them at that stage with the primer as it gets sanded. By the time I get to the finish coats I remember how to use the Fuji setup.

Between dropping off and picking up kids and cleanup I didn't have much time. I'll have to save the top coats for another day.

That Vac Sys cart I built has earned its keep many times over. It gets extensive use on every operation.

Next project I tackle will not involve paint.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 3031
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #168 on: June 10, 2021, 09:50 PM »
Great job!  What paint are you using?  And curious if you'll assemble with glue and screws and then respray on a final coat?

Glad to see the VacSys cart getting continued use.

Thanks for the updates!


Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #169 on: June 11, 2021, 07:43 AM »
Great job!  What paint are you using?  And curious if you'll assemble with glue and screws and then respray on a final coat?

Glad to see the VacSys cart getting continued use.

Thanks for the updates!

Hey @neilc just screws and Dominos on this one. I'm hoping to avoid any spraying after assembly.

Edit: I'm using Kem Aqua+ Surfacer and top coat
« Last Edit: June 11, 2021, 07:56 AM by DynaGlide »
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Offline mike_aa

  • Posts: 1225
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #170 on: June 11, 2021, 11:16 AM »
@DynaGlide  That is really looking great.  Are you gluing the Dominos?  This may be a dumb question, but doesn't the overspray in the Domino mortices cause issues with gluing and fit?

Thanks, Mike A.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #171 on: June 11, 2021, 11:30 AM »
@DynaGlide  That is really looking great.  Are you gluing the Dominos?  This may be a dumb question, but doesn't the overspray in the Domino mortices cause issues with gluing and fit?

Thanks, Mike A.

Hopefully I can cram them in there but no I'm not using any glue. The Dominos are just there for alignment and a little bit for strength. The screws will be doing the work. Once the boxes are up on the wall and screwed together and to studs they aren't going anywhere.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #172 on: June 11, 2021, 11:39 AM »
When we bought the house there was an old cabinet in the basement with a laminate top. I trashed the cabinet but kept the top. I use it for all sorts of things like protecting the MFT from water when I'm cleaning my spray gun, or when I'm sharpening. This time around the 7mm MDF backs warped on me after spraying and I was able to flatten them back out overnight.



« Last Edit: June 11, 2021, 01:31 PM by DynaGlide »
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Dr. P. Venkman

  • Posts: 100
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #173 on: June 11, 2021, 02:04 PM »
It really is looking terrific.

How do you like the Kem Aqua Plus with that Fuji HVLP?

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #174 on: June 11, 2021, 02:10 PM »
It really is looking terrific.

How do you like the Kem Aqua Plus with that Fuji HVLP?

Thank you. I like it well enough. I'm new to spraying compared to most. Its main selling point is I can spray it without thinning the primer. I loathe thinning it messes with the chemistry and it makes refilling the gun more time consuming. I've had my base cabinets with KA+ for a year now and they're holding up well. With any product you have to be willing to adapt unless you're in a climate controlled setting. It's something you get a feel for.

I do add 10% General Finishes Extender to the top coat as I've heard it helps it go down smooth.

Instagram @matts.garage