Author Topic: Home Office Remodel (Read 9606 times)

Sparktrician · « **Reply #60 on:** August 04, 2020, 11:24 AM »

Quote from: Cheese on August 04, 2020, 11:05 AM

@DynaGlide and @Sparktrician

I'm not familiar with that style of fan, where does it go and what does it vent to? What would be the cause for the high current draw and the burned twist connector? Bad bearings in the fan? Seems if it's bad bearings, then that problem could raise its ugly head again sometime. That'd make me nervous.

Locally ridge vents, plain static vents (they look terrible) or large attic fans (24"-30" diameter) turning at a low rpm are popular.

@Cheese, the fan type I mentioned are sometimes called mushroom fans. Here is one example. There's a small motor inside the dome. I think the wiring got burned because whoever wired it in used an older type of wire nut that didn't have the spiral spring inside that really digs into the wire and holds the wires together. I suspect that over time, a high-resistance short developed and caused the heat that burned the wiring. All that got fixed this morning when I wired in the new fan. It's up there spinning merrily away, cooling the attic. (And I'm out of the attic, scrubbed, clean and smelling a whole lot better now.)

VictorL · « **Reply #61 on:** August 05, 2020, 09:32 AM »

Quote from: TSO_Products on June 22, 2020, 10:05 PM

@DynaGlide - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

I definitely want longer bars. If you use LR-32 just for trivial support pins, it's overkill, but for installing slides it "must have" item.

Thes

DynaGlide · « **Reply #62 on:** September 04, 2020, 05:00 PM »

@tjbnwi or anyone else:

I started spraying Kem Aqua Plus surfacer today. I have two coats on and I think I have the application down but I'm running into an issue.

After it's had time to dry there's some bleeding through the Surfacer on some of the Maple pieces.

It's worse on some vs the others. I'm applying the Surfacer wet like a lake and hand sanding w/ 220 between coats. This is only on the Maple frames not on the MDF panels.

I read somewhere I can let it cure overnight and hit it again and it might take care of it before moving onto top coats. Any advice? Not looking to switch to Kilz or equivalent I'd like to stay with the KA+ system as it is designed to work together.

Matt

tjbnwi · « **Reply #63 on:** September 04, 2020, 05:09 PM »

@DynaGlide,

Honestly, I’ve never seen this before.

Wash those areas with denatured alcohol tomorrow. Scuff sand, reshoot.

You may be putting it on to heavy, 5 mils wet is where you want to be.

Any pieces not shot pre-clean with DNA (if you can get Prepsol 3919S or 3812S reducer they work well also). I think this is a contamination issue.

If you had to do any filling are these areas that were filled? If so what filler did you use? KA does not play well with Timbermate fillers.

Tom

DynaGlide · « **Reply #64 on:** September 04, 2020, 06:24 PM »

@tjbnwi Upon further inspection all the maple has the spots to some degree. There's no filling in the areas where it's happening. It doesn't happen at all with the mdf panels.

I'm stumped. I'll try cleaning and scuffing and reshooting and see what happens.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #65 on:** September 04, 2020, 06:31 PM »

I believe it is a contaminate. I've never seen the issue on maple, we use a ton of it (on each build).

Tom

DynaGlide · « **Reply #66 on:** September 04, 2020, 11:01 PM »

@tjbnwi Tom this is silver maple if that matters. I think I'm experiencing tannin bleed through. The wood was raw and sanded before I started. If it comes to it can I apply bin shellac under either the Surfacer or the top coats of the KA+?

tjbnwi · « **Reply #67 on:** September 04, 2020, 11:04 PM »

Use Seal Coat. It is a dewaxed shellac. Hopefully you wont need it. I've used Surfacer over oak with no issues.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt-SealCoat-Wood-Sealer-824H/202070456

Tom

DynaGlide · « **Reply #68 on:** September 05, 2020, 03:38 PM »

@tjbnwi I hope you're in for a laugh. I went to the Depot to try to find the Denatured alcohol. They didn't have it so I said screw it and put another coat on. This time I pulled out the mil gauge. Apparently my definition of "wet like a lake" is more in line with "dry like a desert." The mil gauge barely registered a 1 when I checked with what I was laying down.

I'm going to go ahead and say that was my issue. I got a nice thick coat around 4 mil on all the pieces. I'll have to re-do the backs of the doors before moving on.

tjbnwi · « **Reply #69 on:** September 05, 2020, 04:25 PM »

Hopefully this solved the issue.

Tom

DynaGlide · « **Reply #70 on:** September 06, 2020, 07:50 PM »

All smiles over here @tjbnwi Tom. My biggest issues were the suicidal bugs flying through my spray and some cool weather micro foaming this morning but I worked through it.

For someone that does this as a hobby figuring it out as I go I'm really pleased.

Matt

tjbnwi · « **Reply #71 on:** September 06, 2020, 08:07 PM »

I've said these 2 things many times;

Finishing s the harest thing any woodworker will ever do.

Spary with your ears, not your eyes.

Sand with 240 Garnat Net if you have it.

If something got on the finish between topcoats, denibb it----DO NOT SAND BETWEEN TOP COATS!!!!!!!!!!!

Tom

Tim Raleigh · « **Reply #72 on:** September 14, 2020, 09:37 AM »

Quote from: tjbnwi on September 06, 2020, 08:07 PM

I've said these 2 things many times;

Finishing s the harest thing any woodworker will ever do.

Spary with your ears, not your eyes.

Sand with 240 Garnat Net if you have it.

If something got on the finish between topcoats, denibb it----DO NOT SAND BETWEEN TOP COATS!!!!!!!!!!!

Tom

All good advice.
Finishing will humble you faster than your partner ever will.
Tim

JeremyH. · « **Reply #73 on:** September 28, 2020, 07:12 PM »

Ok I haven't been lurking much lately, posting zero...

And I admit I've just been looking at pictures. Congratulations on getting rid of that ~~closet~~ folding-abomination.

I have to throw a major curve ball in. MAJOR.

Monitor arms. It doesn't look like you planned for them. I'll never live without them again. There's nothing better than opening up the desk space and have ergo viewing. If I moved my office into a room with beautiful cabinets, I'd hack them up any way necessary to implement monitor arms. They need a little space behind them sometimes for how they adjust. At this point I doubt you have a wait to accommodate but truthfully you're obviously very crafty so I wholly suspect I could be very surprised.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #74 on:** October 21, 2020, 05:36 PM »

I know it's been a while but I just put some of the finishing touches on this week. Baseboard and shoe moulding and swapping some outlets. I just realized I haven't posted any updated pics. I've been using the office since mid August and working on it as I could.

This is what I'll call Phase 1. Next I need to replace the double doors leading to the bedroom with sliding doors then after Christmas I'll build and install bookshelves to go on top of the desk. They will have their own lighting.

After scribing this panel in I made it removable along with the toekick for hiding wires:

Sparktrician · « **Reply #75 on:** October 21, 2020, 05:52 PM »

Great job, Matt. Is SWMBO happy with the results?

neilc · « **Reply #76 on:** October 21, 2020, 10:28 PM »

Nice work! You put a ton of work into that and the results look great!

Congrats, Matt!

mkasdin · « **Reply #77 on:** October 22, 2020, 03:33 AM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on September 05, 2020, 03:38 PM

@tjbnwi I hope you're in for a laugh. I went to the Depot to try to find the Denatured alcohol. They didn't have it so I said screw it and put another coat on. This time I pulled out the mil gauge. Apparently my definition of "wet like a lake" is more in line with "dry like a desert." The mil gauge barely registered a 1 when I checked with what I was laying down.

I'm going to go ahead and say that was my issue. I got a nice thick coat around 4 mil on all the pieces. I'll have to re-do the backs of the doors before moving on.

denatured alcohol for cleaning is no longer sold. Now labeled as cooking fuel. Amazon sells it by the quart. I ordered 4 quarts, so I should be good for awhile.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #78 on:** October 30, 2020, 09:17 AM »

Quote from: Sparktrician on October 21, 2020, 05:52 PM

Great job, Matt. Is SWMBO happy with the results?

Thank you Willy! Yes she is. I'm still a little taken back that I pulled this off as my first cabinetry project.

1) Never remodeled anything before
2) Never built a real cabinet or door or drawer outside of Greg Paolini's class
3) Never built a countertop or scribed anything before
4) Never had to paint anything before that had to look this nice. .and first time with SW KA+

There is just no replacement for experience. I already have some thoughts on things I might do differently.

Quote from: neilc on October 21, 2020, 10:28 PM

Nice work! You put a ton of work into that and the results look great!

Congrats, Matt!

Thanks neil!

DynaGlide · « **Reply #79 on:** February 20, 2021, 08:29 AM »

Hello all,

I'm hoping to get some design advice for the bookshelves. I was originally going to do lighting but have scrapped that in favor of simplicity so I can get them done. I'll save learning the ins and outs of LEDs for another day.

Here is the general idea of what I'm after. The model is outdated but gets the point across:

I'd like to avoid painting so I'm looking at either a white TFL material or melamine from the box store. If I go Melamine I have to deal with PB core. If I order in a TFL I can pick the substrate, I believe MDF.

My thought is to make each unit separate, i.e. two sides and a full size back. Then when I install screw them all together in place and to the studs in the wall through the backs. I'd cover the exposed front edges with trim and brush paint in place. They need to be a few inches shy of the ceiling to allow for crown molding (not sure how much there either, never done crown before).

I'd likely make the shelves adjustable with shelf pin holes. Either bore them full length or within designated ranges (i.e. 6 holes either direction of each shelf location).

The countertop is 24" deep. The bookshelf units I'm targeting 12" deep including the entire carcass. The opening over the right desk area will be wide enough to accommodate my wife's 27" iMac with some room to spare.

Looking for advice from anyone who's been there, done that.

Thanks,
Matt

rvieceli · « **Reply #80 on:** February 20, 2021, 08:55 AM »

@DynaGlide

Matt your design looks good. But I'm a big fan of units over a countertop that DO NOT continue down to the counter surface. Suggest you think about making the shelves more like an upper kitchen cabinet with shelves and perhaps mount them on French cleats. It will give you more flexibility in the future, should you decide to change things.

Ron

Sparktrician · « **Reply #81 on:** February 20, 2021, 01:31 PM »

Quote from: rvieceli on February 20, 2021, 08:55 AM

@DynaGlide

Matt your design looks good. But I'm a big fan of units over a countertop that DO NOT continue down to the counter surface. Suggest you think about making the shelves more like an upper kitchen cabinet with shelves and perhaps mount them on French cleats. It will give you more flexibility in the future, should you decide to change things.

Ron

Concur with Ron wholeheartedly! Leave the work surface clear of any vertical supports for the shelving by using a french cleat system to support the cabinets. Set the bottom shelf at 60" AFF to provide headroom for leaning in while working, for servicing printers, and for large monitors.

JimH2 · « **Reply #82 on:** February 20, 2021, 02:54 PM »

I think the proposed bookshelves might be too much for the room/desk. You might consider at least mounting them on the wall to give plenty of open space on the desk below. I'd feel claustrophobic working with the bookshelves sitting the desk. I like the overall design and the formica tops. They look good.

neilc · « **Reply #83 on:** February 20, 2021, 04:58 PM »

Matt - I'm going against the other feedback! I'd recommend you paint them instead of going with the melamine. The lowers look great with the painted finish, frame and panel sides, etc. You have the tools, and the experience. Don't make a dynamite workspace turn 'Ikea' with melamine.

I think you should continue that 'look' from the desk cabinets on the uppers, even with the need to paint them. Plus I think it improves the resale on the home in the future.

Agree with the others on keeping them off the counter top. And I'd at least 'plan and build' for LED light strips that could be inset under the bottom of the wall cabinet. Lee Valley has some really simple guides for selection of the right components. You might think about a set of doors on one cabinet - maybe the set on the right side - to hide some clutter, but also give you access to the wall for wiring of the LED's in the future.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #84 on:** February 20, 2021, 05:37 PM »

It seems unanimous that I shouldn't run the bookshelves all the way down. Unfortunately, as is usually the case, that's not "how the people on pinterest" do it. If I have them go all the way down I was going to do them 12" deep, no bottoms so the counter is still exposed, and give the right desk area a 36" wide open area. She's pretty adamant on this. You have to please the client if you want to stay in business, right?

@neilc Don't you go talking me into more painting! Even though I know you're right that it would look best. Compared to the doors doing the bookshelves would be really simple. Darn it.

I'll do some more looking into lighting. If I wanted lighted shelves that would mean ditching adjustable, no?

For the backs should I do 1/2" applied to full size of the carcasses, attached with dominos and screws? When I did the bottom cabinets I did stretchers/nailers, set the 1/4" backs in enough to fit the 3/4" stretcher behind.

Cheese · « **Reply #85 on:** February 20, 2021, 06:01 PM »

Quote from: DynaGlide on February 20, 2021, 05:37 PM

I'll do some more looking into lighting. If I wanted lighted shelves that would mean ditching adjustable, no?

Nope, look at Phantom Lighting for some solutions. You can incorporate the items/standards you need now and then add the lighting later.

https://www.phantomlighting.com/products/cabinet-lighting/

neilc · « **Reply #86 on:** February 20, 2021, 06:20 PM »

For the backs / hanging...

Consider 2" rails across the top under the top shelf. Do the same at the bottom, assuming you are floating them on the wall and not going to the desk. Inset a 1/4" panel to those rails as well as on the sides. Those give you rails to screw into the wall rather than dealing with French cleats. Much cleaner approach and you give up minimal depth.

I just searched for 'built in bookshelves above desk' on Pinterest. Many of the ones I saw are above the surface. They look SO much better, particularly on a smaller space, which is what you have there.

@Cheese - those are really cool shelving lights! Love the idea of the adjustability and zero exposed wires.

Cheese · « **Reply #87 on:** February 21, 2021, 09:05 AM »

Quote from: neilc on February 20, 2021, 06:20 PM

@Cheese - those are really cool shelving lights! Love the idea of the adjustability and zero exposed wires.

Neil that's one of the manufacturers...I thought I'd saved the other one in the computer but I can't find it now.

DynaGlide · « **Reply #88 on:** February 22, 2021, 11:18 AM »

Quote from: Cheese on February 21, 2021, 09:05 AM

Quote from: neilc on February 20, 2021, 06:20 PM
@Cheese - those are really cool shelving lights! Love the idea of the adjustability and zero exposed wires.

Neil that's one of the manufacturers...I thought I'd saved the other one in the computer but I can't find it now.

@Cheese are these the guys?

https://www.vltcorp.com/product/essentialedge/

Cheese · « **Reply #89 on:** February 22, 2021, 12:03 PM »

Hey @DynaGlide they could be the one...I remember that it was a simple installation requiring just a couple of parts. However I also thought that screws were not part of the solution but a couple of retractible spring pins like on the original DF 500.

RSL (Roberts Step Lite) also produces a "Wireless Adjustable Shelf Light".

https://robertssteplite.com/led/