@DynaGlide  Nice job on the floor patch!  Good luck with the rest of the build!

Mike A.
 

I don't know how many electrical appliances you plan on having in that office, but I highly recommend a power switch. Years ago I made a small 19 inch rack for my computers and added space for a network patch panel and a power switch. I still am glad I did that.

Something like this:

 power_switch.jpg (9.1 kB - downloaded 404 times.)

Of course, you might not have any 19 inch IT stuff, but a power switch still is ideal. And you can connect any powered device to it, not just IT stuff. Some even have USB outlets. I bought mine at a store for DJ's. Not sure where you could buy them in the States. To sum up some benefits: easy access to power buttons, a visible queue to whether something is powered on or not, saving energy (because you don't have the transformers on stand-by all the time), reduced risk of fire (for the same reason), (possibly) reduced clutter on or below your desk.

If you have low frequency units for a sound system and don't want to kick against them with your feet all the time, make sure you don't forget to create an "out of the way" place for them as well.

[Edit: sorry, that picture was meant to go inline...]

@DynaGlide - usual good planning job, Matt!
GReat way to recover poorly utilized closet space. Your right: that floor remodel will not be noticed on an the furnished space.

Here are some random order brainstorming topics:

How much detailed planning have you given to each workspace usage needs?
SKYPE Meetings vieod surrounding and video face llighting
Ergonomics - laptop? - keyboard tray? monitor viewing distance to seated position? monitor height adjustable desk atands or repositionable wall arms?
Rounded  bullnose edges on worksurfaces
Thougts given to sit-stand desk surfaces?
cable management access below
110 Volt outlet run on the walll 30 - 42 inches high all around?
Powered USB outlets
Cable trays accessible from above
easy access to the back of desktop PC's living on the floor
Printer location for easy access from each swivel chairs
Desk Space with task lighting for workpapers
Remember that 24" deskspace is greatly reduced by two monitors and a keyboard plus perhaps a Laptop arm (email)
Long days at the desk - where do the feet stretch
Speakers
SKYPE video camera/mic between monitors

the size of the room or door and window locations?
Have you considered other non-corner layouts before choosing the finalist?

Where are heating and airconditioning outlets relative to person's seating? - blowing air is not comfortable for extended periods

Finally: flexibility to reconfigure as your needs (will) change

We'll vicariously enjoy your progress here via the FOG!
Hans

Hans - There sure is a lot to digest with your post. Luckily I don't do video conferences with my work on a regular basis. I will be in the corner to allow placement of up to 3 monitors. My wife does a fair share of video calls but her computer camera will not include me. These are valid considerations that I didn't even take into account.

The desk is more or less standardized using guidance from the Blum Process32 manual for an office desk. That is - 30.5" final height and 24" deep base cabinets. Luckily I have an IKEA desk currently with similar height dimensions that I've used for several years so I have a good feeling of what is "right" for me.

For wiring I will have cable trays underneath each work area and cutouts in the cabinets where required. The outlets have all been relocated to above desk height an appropriate distance save for the one outlet I added which will be brought into the corner computer cabinet. No door will go on that cabinet as I plan on building a PC and locating it inside along with some minor network equipment.

The printer will be up on top of the desk and under a bookshelf (later stage of the project) above where the corner computer cabinet will sit.

We went through several iterations to get to the final design working within the constraints of the doors for the room and the available space. Initially we planned a sort of double L extending into the middle of the room but abandoned the idea when we realized the room wasn't wide enough. The corner desk isn't ideal however the double wide cabinets to the left and right of the corner were necessary for storage of larger items that wouldn't do well in a single width cabinet.

I hope to have some sort of rounded profile for the counter. I'm still researching the laminate. It's tough with COVID-19. I am unable to see any product in person because of restrictions in place.

@hdv Interesting I've never come across that before. For my needs that would be overkill. At most there will be a handful of items in the PC cabinet. I'm not a networking engineer and will have any patch panels or switches located in the basement.

I setup my cutting station yesterday prior to delivery of the sheet goods. It's the Veritas Panel Platform Kit https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/work-surfaces/76830-veritas-panel-platform-kit

clamped to a pair of Tracktubes on DeWALT lightweight horses. What I love about this setup is it's so easy to break down into a small storage space and setup a rock solid sacrificial and comfortable cutting surface. Oh and the sacrificial boards are ripped down cedar from a shelf I had at the time so I get to smell that every time I use it. 







Stay tuned.

Matt

Matt,

I have some brown grommets leftover from long ago.  You can have them if you want them. The brown color might not work for your design, however.

Cheese,

I recall that my Grandfather had a mid-50's ( I think it was a '55) Olds 88.  I'm pretty sure he didn't have flames on the front end. 

Love the vacuum rail clamp idea! Ill have to implement something like that myself!

And finally, on Father's Day my brother helped me run Cat6 to my Office from the basement:

Just a random question.  How did you cut the hole in the plywood floor/ceiling for the Cat6 blue cable?  It looks like you took a spade bit and drilled about 20 holes around the edge of the area you wanted cut out.  It does not look like any saw, that cuts a straight line,  was used to cut the hole.

Hey Matt

Looks like a good start to your project.  I don't think the use of a #8 screw is a problem in 3/4"/18 mm material.  That is what I used on all those bookcases I built recently. I did drill a pilot hole before driving each screw.   Did you size the pilot hole so it worked with the size of the shank of the screw?

Hey Matt

Looks like a good start to your project.  I don't think the use of a #8 screw is a problem in 3/4"/18 mm material.  That is what I used on all those bookcases I built recently. I did drill a pilot hole before driving each screw.   Did you size the pilot hole so it worked with the size of the shank of the screw?

Very timely response. .I am using a #8 snappy countersink bit. I re-did the bulged screws and had no issues when I focused more on going in straight. I guess I was just careless with my drilling.

@DynaGlide - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

@DynaGlide - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

@TSO_Products Hans I'm interested but primarily due to a pending project July-ish. If you had something available now I'd buy, absent that I will probably whomp up a DIY set.

@DynaGlide Matt - where did you obtain the hex bar stock, MMC?

Thanks,

RMW

Question for the group: I'm at the step of attaching my leg levelers. Here are the ones I purchased: Desunia Cabinet levelers

I've found mixed opinions on the function of the leg levelers. Some guides say to have them straddle the side panel to take on the load whereas others have firmly argued frameless cabinets transfer the load to the back and to the wall and other joined boxes once installed. Two of my boxes are not screwed to other boxes. The front to back set back I can work out it's the side of the box to the leveler I would like advice on. Another consideration is some of the ends will get applied end panels (and side toe kicks as well) so I'm assuming on those boxes the leveler gets placed closer to the edge of the side of the box.

As always pics are appreciated if you have them.

Matt

Check out the attached PDF file, Matt.   

That sure is handy and confirms what I was thinking. .if you aren't going to see the side of a cabinet put the leveler right near the edges with proper front setback whereas if there's an applied end panel, account for the 3/4" thickness of that and shoot for the same setback as the front to back on those shown sides. I had also planned on mitering the toe kicks where they meet on the ends.

Thanks Willy

Looking good.

I'm surprised with all that TSO gear that you're still using a Betterly and Makita connectors to join the rails.

That's a fair point. If Hans @TSO_Products wants to send me some. . .until then the Makita + Betterley is deadly accurate and solid and I'd have to deal with selling them on to re-coup some of my money.

@hdv That's a good tip. I'll do that to my Milwaukee drills.

And now drum roll. . .

Good progress, Matt.  Guess you really had a long day.