Author Topic: Home Office Remodel  (Read 20302 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #90 on: February 23, 2021, 12:27 PM »
@Cheese Thanks for the info. None of those manufacturers are forthcoming with how to buy without going through a design consultant. Probably a sign they're outside my budget.

After a few rounds of back and forth I think I've narrowed down a design that pleases everyone. She gets the full size bookshelf, centered on the wall. Then we get open areas above both our computers. The middle bookshelf is ~30" wide with 28.5" shelves. The two side wall hung units are about 22" wide each. Ideally they'd all be wall units but you work with what you've got. It's still being tweaked. I may make that middle unit a little narrower.

Instagram @matts.garage

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline Packard

  • Posts: 415
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #91 on: February 23, 2021, 01:27 PM »
It looks really nice.  And probably as much work as installing a new kitchen.

There is a (new to me) type of hardware for joining seams on counter tops.  It not only draws the counters tightly together it allows form micro-adjustments to level the two pieces.

I have not seen any videos on how to  use this, but I  did see a photo showing its use.  I will try it on my next countertop.  The detail photos shown in the link give an idea how it works. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174392206561?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACMBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkKQ3D59%252FksmrAqH9M4NgB3wXh%252F5wkeKdvgWRG1dNUFVKfV1EKsXQs79O2XKyaeJpv5Oc52yIiDWhMGUAdqVGqbd5887XYsTnBAKErXaQNNMqplRvyz9YXNROMQqiNWjcB%252BogAukGpmJ3DnEfmyomionpY7d%252BnyfNr5AgkTcj5IUq6b3Q5q29d99HYbH7mD4c176JVO2odgCbhMA8jvjUFlfa86j5%252FtRIPLzoao14Mh3szssg6h%252BnYfTpiFqsjBl7JNdIwSAOqi56O%252B5fai4qRW1D2J79TPl0PqmxMzqpD%252FaNCPyEj8gaATnoEgq2Pjvlb7aUjsWPL06b7045ojH2WaYEkEUCfaVBd8Uej4eePvKEs33nN9V8tcXssD3jZ4G%252BXXjb%252BuywsYelw5REnbbXuhPejOfY7PtVnvgwwX%252FuPQjLlPZC1yZWdIR4lev%252BO6lI1lujOjQXIoveSckO8lOQcsVUuSCGeCVeygFBZfNvhY1nSfTy5grkznkQxteMILS7NPTodtGUojtZGau65yA075vGohexaAnvqNWkZNgeJZ5zKFrPxtOFhJ4RndDr5wAffDo85QSOtFsQgLCbev6w6n0wxncNWctN8J0%252FmmOUWMy5HQpBZSX23RyjH12%252Fpxe6S3Jcr8Yqrdis8mR6%252BcZjLZcu8T6Frp58M88DfxUUsLgyz9Z%252FvBqeqIrOoVsWBH%252BOp%7Ccksum%3A174392206561fe04d6e6df134ebbacbcd77254210472%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A3268220&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174392206561&targetid=1098102009964&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003433&poi=&campaignid=11774733487&mkgroupid=113829509425&rlsatarget=pla-1098102009964&abcId=9300474&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy4KEhNCA7wIVBDiGCh2HIgo_EAQYBCABEgJqPPD_BwE

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #92 on: February 24, 2021, 09:25 AM »
I finally nailed down the reason for the 'bookshelf' in the middle going full length to the countertop was to semi hide wiring for the printer. So I said, what if I give you a center cabinet with a pull out shelf to hold the printer and I put an outlet up there and a power strip to hold any devices you want to charge. I think that worked. I can put some access holes from the center cabinet to the shelf units on either side to accommodate Sonos bookshelf speakers too.



Thoughts?
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 469
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #93 on: March 03, 2021, 09:35 PM »
I am enjoying watching the evolution of this project as you work through it with your spouse.  The design has come along nicely.  Your approach w/ the doors and slide out tray for the printer should work very well.  I think it will look better this way, too.

Are you planning to trim the adjoining side panels with 1.5" material, or make something wider?  Or just butt together?

Something about white melamine looks slightly off to me sometimes.. it's almost too white.  I used it for my kitchen cabinets (on the interiors) but it's not something I'd like to look at for long periods of time.  Depending on what's nearby, you might be able to get something with a slightly less stark color.

I built all my non-drawer cabinets with adjustable shelves for my kitchen.  So, 10 cabinets with 3 or 2 adjustable shelves each.  I think we have maybe adjusted one of them in the past four years.  It's a nice option to have, but playing with dimmable leds in the cabinet would be more fun if you had to choose. [big grin].  My wife really enjoys adjusting the under-shelf lighting to set a mood.   8) The adjustable LED systems look very cool, but I'm guessing that comes at a big premium.

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 3031
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #94 on: March 03, 2021, 10:09 PM »
Thanks for continuing to open this for discussion, Matt!


I like this better.  I’m not personally a big fan of a wall size bookcase, but you and your wife both being in there must need a lot of storage.  If it is a small room, it does make the room seem even smaller.  I just googled ‘office desk with floating shelves’ and found quite a few very interesting designs that definitely open up a room. 


On the printer, why not put the printer on the lower cabinets?  Only asking because a lot of printers get to be pretty deep, meaning deeper than a 12” wall cabinet.  That would make wiring simpler and might accommodate the option of a ‘pull-out’ drawer for easy scanning, etc. 


What did you decide on melamine vs frame and panel?












 -

Offline simonh

  • Retailer
  • *
  • Posts: 153
  • Hobbyist / Maker of the VCS-R
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #95 on: March 04, 2021, 03:27 AM »
Something about white melamine looks slightly off to me sometimes.. it's almost too white.  I used it for my kitchen cabinets (on the interiors) but it's not something I'd like to look at for long periods of time.  Depending on what's nearby, you might be able to get something with a slightly less stark color.

I use Egger U708 light grey for all cabinet carcasses nowadays. Not at stark as the white and doesn't look dirty as easily.
-Simon

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 1451
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #96 on: March 04, 2021, 06:54 AM »
I'm with neilc on the printer for a couple of reasons. The size he mentions is one. You'll be locked into something small.

Putting the printer unit in the base cabinet gives you more room and frees up desk real estate. The other thing is think about using it. With the higher level unit you will most likely have to stand up to retrieve print outs, the lower unit will allow you to remain seated and just grab the stuff. It is also easier to load items to scan if you have an all in one unit.

Ron 

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #97 on: March 04, 2021, 08:12 AM »
I am enjoying watching the evolution of this project as you work through it with your spouse.  The design has come along nicely.  Your approach w/ the doors and slide out tray for the printer should work very well.  I think it will look better this way, too.

Are you planning to trim the adjoining side panels with 1.5" material, or make something wider?  Or just butt together?

Something about white melamine looks slightly off to me sometimes.. it's almost too white.  I used it for my kitchen cabinets (on the interiors) but it's not something I'd like to look at for long periods of time.  Depending on what's nearby, you might be able to get something with a slightly less stark color.

I built all my non-drawer cabinets with adjustable shelves for my kitchen.  So, 10 cabinets with 3 or 2 adjustable shelves each.  I think we have maybe adjusted one of them in the past four years.  It's a nice option to have, but playing with dimmable leds in the cabinet would be more fun if you had to choose. [big grin].  My wife really enjoys adjusting the under-shelf lighting to set a mood.   8) The adjustable LED systems look very cool, but I'm guessing that comes at a big premium.

@mrFinpgh Hi, yes I plan on trimming where they butt together. I was thinking just that: a 1.5" wide strip with a the edges facing eased over.

The lighting I still want to do, I just need to do more research. In order to keep the adjustable shelving I would have to use vertical strips mounted to the sides of each carcass. They get recessed into a groove and installed into an aluminum track with a diffuser cover. I just haven't given it enough thought yet.


Thanks for continuing to open this for discussion, Matt!



On the printer, why not put the printer on the lower cabinets?  Only asking because a lot of printers get to be pretty deep, meaning deeper than a 12” wall cabinet.  That would make wiring simpler and might accommodate the option of a ‘pull-out’ drawer for easy scanning, etc. 


What did you decide on melamine vs frame and panel?


Hi Neil,

I might do that. I have the open corner cabinet with electrical in place that would work well for this. I originally intended on having a desktop PC there but opted for a nice laptop this past Holiday season instead. It plugs right into my work dock and sits on top of the desk. We don't print that often, maybe once a week for my daughter's school, so the inconvenient location wouldn't really matter. I'd still put it on a pull out shelf on slides so I'm not crawling around down there to use it when scanning.

In either case, I'll do the electrical and pull out shelf on the center upper for the reasons I listed above: device charging, speaker wiring.

I think construction wise the wall cabinets will be just like the bottoms except with a top. Rout the 1/4" back panel in 3/4" to allow for nailers/stretchers. I think I'll skip the melamine and opt for unfinished quality ply and paint it to match the doors and drawer faces below. Then the two doors of course will be identical to the ones below.

@rvieceli I think you might be right. The printer we have is pretty compact and has a scanner. It was a Christmas purchase and while it would fit in a 16" upper cabinet, putting it in the bottom might be the way to go.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2021, 09:06 AM by DynaGlide »
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8589
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #98 on: March 04, 2021, 10:30 AM »

The lighting I still want to do, I just need to do more research. In order to keep the adjustable shelving I would have to use vertical strips mounted to the sides of each carcass. They get recessed into a groove and installed into an aluminum track with a diffuser cover. I just haven't given it enough thought yet.


I like the vertical lighting solution, that's exactly what I'm going to do for the new kitchen cabinets I'm building.

Here are a couple of links that may trigger some additional ideas for electrification and wire management.

https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-systems/

https://www.mockett.com/grommets-wire-management/


I really like the new built-in wireless charger to eliminate wires & cables.

https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-systems/wireless-charging/wcs9-23s.html






Here's some info on aluminum channels and their covers. The SLIM channel is only 3/8" deep, perfect for pocketing.

https://www.diodeled.com/custom/download/productFile/filename/chromapath-aluminum-channel-specification-sheet.pdf/


Here's another reliable supplier of LED's and accessories. I use the Luxeon LED's for installation in stainless outdoor step lights set in concrete along with MeanWell drivers. I also use MeanWell drivers for all interior LED lighting.

This vendor offers a real low profile aluminum extrusion that's only 8.8 mm tall.

https://www.ledsupply.com/led-heatsinks/1-inch-led-strip-channel?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6L57vaW7wIVr1PVCh3J0gQFEAYYByABEgLsB_D_BwE


Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 469
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #99 on: March 05, 2021, 12:46 PM »


@mrFinpgh Hi, yes I plan on trimming where they butt together. I was thinking just that: a 1.5" wide strip with a the edges facing eased over.

The lighting I still want to do, I just need to do more research. In order to keep the adjustable shelving I would have to use vertical strips mounted to the sides of each carcass. They get recessed into a groove and installed into an aluminum track with a diffuser cover. I just haven't given it enough thought yet.


You might give a little consideration to what it will feel like when you're looking into the cabinets and there are vertical lights in there.  In my kitchen I've got LED lights in tracks w/ diffusers in two places:   Recessed into the bottom of floating shelves and attached to the underside of shelves within a faceframed unit.   What I've found is that the floating shelves look good but if you are in another room (e.g. sitting on a chair and looking into the kitchen)  the LEDs become much more directly visible and it isn't the best experience. Functionally they are great, however.

In the face-framed unit (4' wide, 5' tall), the shelves have a 2" wide piece on the front and the strips run directly behind, which means the light source is always shielded a little bit more.  The quality of light tends be a bit more pleasing to the eye and looks better from more angles.

I'm trying to imagine what vertical lighting might look like here and I can see some potential to get an eyeful of LED from a number of angles, even if they are recessed flush w/ the sides of the cabinet and diffused, it could be a bit strong.  I'm not really sure if it would play out that way in reality, but it's worth checking beforehand.  I guess someone with chops could mock up the light sources in fusion, but the real thing might be easier in terms of time.  I'm trying to think of a way you could recess the lights in the frame itself, and aim them towards the back, but it would make your face frame at least another inch or so wider, which probably isn't the look you are after.

I've added a couple photos to illustrate what I'm saying.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2021, 12:58 PM by mrFinpgh »

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #100 on: March 19, 2021, 02:34 PM »
Hello all,

I'm looking to get started on this next week. Here's where the design sits:



I'm a little torn on how to trim the cabinets. Originally I was going to put a 1.5" trim piece to cover where two adjacent shelf units meet. That might look strange if I didn't do something along the top and bottom edges. If I did a face frame, I'd get that 1.5" all around except where the cabinets meet the middle cabinet with doors. I'm tempted to just skip going for the chunky 1.5" look of the shelves and frame and keeping it frameless.

Any tips?

Thanks,
Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #101 on: March 19, 2021, 03:57 PM »
Matt, are you going to do strip or puck lighting under the hanging cabinets?  Might want to consider a false front to conceal the lights such that they don't cause glare into SWMBO's eyes.  Just a thought...   [wink]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #102 on: March 20, 2021, 08:54 AM »
Matt, are you going to do strip or puck lighting under the hanging cabinets?  Might want to consider a false front to conceal the lights such that they don't cause glare into SWMBO's eyes.  Just a thought...   [wink]

@Sparktrician I would like to. I'm a little confused on how to approach the design we're after. Maybe I'm missing something having not really dealt with face frames.

This is what we're after:



I was thinking of building the cabinets frameless then attaching the front 'frame' in pieces after they're hung. Each rail and stile would be 3/4 material, 1.5" wide. That way where two boxes meet it would cover the exposed plywood without extending into the boxes insides. Along the tops and bottoms the rails would extend past the boxes 3/4", like this:



I'm assuming this 3/4" lip would allow me to hide some lighting strips.

That center wider cabinet is going to have two doors. My current thought is to do inset doors and when I bore the hinge holes, subtract off 18mm from the 37mm setback to account for the 'frame' that will be applied.

When it's all done I want the doors, the frame, and the shelves in the same plane. The shelves would be 3/4 ply with a 1.5" maple lip.

Does this all make sense or am I way off?

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #103 on: March 20, 2021, 09:15 AM »
Matt, are you going to do strip or puck lighting under the hanging cabinets?  Might want to consider a false front to conceal the lights such that they don't cause glare into SWMBO's eyes.  Just a thought...   [wink]

@Sparktrician I would like to. I'm a little confused on how to approach the design we're after. Maybe I'm missing something having not really dealt with face frames.

This is what we're after:



I was thinking of building the cabinets frameless then attaching the front 'frame' in pieces after they're hung. Each rail and stile would be 3/4 material, 1.5" wide. That way where two boxes meet it would cover the exposed plywood without extending into the boxes insides. Along the tops and bottoms the rails would extend past the boxes 3/4", like this:



I'm assuming this 3/4" lip would allow me to hide some lighting strips.

That center wider cabinet is going to have two doors. My current thought is to do inset doors and when I bore the hinge holes, subtract off 18mm from the 37mm setback to account for the 'frame' that will be applied.

When it's all done I want the doors, the frame, and the shelves in the same plane. The shelves would be 3/4 ply with a 1.5" maple lip.

Does this all make sense or am I way off?

Matt

@DynaGlide, I think I'd put a 1-1/2" or 2" valence under the cabinets to direct the light down onto the work surface while keeping it out of SWMBO's eyes.  I'd hold the valence against that bottom front of the cabinets, even with the front plane of the cabinets, with the light strips right behind them to move the light as far forward from the wall to make it as useful and shadow-free as possible.  Make sense?
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8589
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #104 on: March 20, 2021, 10:17 AM »
Matt, I think this is what Sparky was referring to.

On our kitchen cabinets I added a 2" valence to the BOTTOM of the cabinets to control light spread and keep it out of our eyes while working in the kitchen. The LED strip is approx 1" away from the front of the cabinets so that any chopping/cutting/mixing tasks are thoroughly illuminated. This is a photo showing the inside/back of the valence.




This is the front of the cabinets showing the front of the 2" wide valence that's flush with the front of the cabinets.





Offline neilc

  • Posts: 3031
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #105 on: March 20, 2021, 11:12 AM »
Matt - I'd make the rails go all the way across at the top and bottom of the side shelves (where there are no doors.)  for the side shelves, I don't think they need to 1.5" edging on what I assume are adjustable shelves, unless they are carrying significant weight.

With careful measuring, You should be able to build either side cabinet face frame as one piece and the center door top/bottom rails can attached once those are in place.  If your bottom rail is 1.5", you should be OK to hide the LED strip as you have it designed.

Here's an article on typical dimensions for rails / stiles.  https://homeguides.sfgate.com/cabinet-stile-rail-dimensions-94437.html

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 1451
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #106 on: March 20, 2021, 11:51 AM »
@DynaGlide I don't see any reason you can't just go frameless on these upper units. Edge band the edges and be done with it. I think they would look fine. I'd also be tempted to leave the doors off and just go with shelves. It would look better IMHO.

As for the lighting, just put an L shaped valence slightly back for the front and side edges to shield the lights. I you want to hide the wring more try giving it a false top just below the cabinet bottom and put in a plywood panel. Make a rabbet or an extra rail to mount it too. Mount the LEDS to the panel and route the wiring underneath.

Ron

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #107 on: March 20, 2021, 01:13 PM »
Thank you everyone for the feedback. Those pictures help a lot @Cheese .

@neilc  The whole idea is that everything including the rails and stiles of the face frames and the shelf lips are the same width. The only thing that would be wider would be the door parts (those are 2.5" shaker rails and stiles to match the base cabinets).

I agree with the long rails and single piece face frames with careful measurements.

Some are suggesting I make the valance larger up to 2" but that'd throw the symmetry off which is why I'm asking if I can get away with 3/4" overhang to cover up some LEDs if I go that route.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8589
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #108 on: March 20, 2021, 01:58 PM »
Some are suggesting I make the valance larger up to 2" but that'd throw the symmetry off which is why I'm asking if I can get away with 3/4" overhang to cover up some LEDs if I go that route.

You can make it whatever width you want to Matt...I needed 2" because at the time, LED strip lighting wasn't invented yet and I needed to shield the larger, deeper Halogen fixtures I installed.

Now with LED strip lighting, I'd make that same valence only 3/4" to 1" wide. With a narrow valence you'll also want to position the LED's very close to it.

I'd jury-rig a simple "cabinet bottom", place it at the height you think you want, mount a short piece of the strip lighting you plan on using and then fabricate a couple of valences in different widths and see what works. That'll get you 2 things, you may decide to raise or lower the bottom of the cabinet after some experimentation and you'll be able to decide how wide the valence needs to be to hide the LED's and prevent the stray light issue.

Make sure the chair is at the height you'll be using and if your wife is shorter than you, make sure she's part of the experiment.  [smile] You really don't want those LED's beaming any light in your direction because it's really distracting...gives you a headache.
That's the reason some people use the 45º LED brackets. Unfortunately that also throws the lighting away from the immediate area that you're trying to light up.



Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #109 on: March 20, 2021, 05:29 PM »
Matt, I think this is what Sparky was referring to.

On our kitchen cabinets I added a 2" valence to the BOTTOM of the cabinets to control light spread and keep it out of our eyes while working in the kitchen. The LED strip is approx 1" away from the front of the cabinets so that any chopping/cutting/mixing tasks are thoroughly illuminated. This is a photo showing the inside/back of the valence.

This is the front of the cabinets showing the front of the 2" wide valence that's flush with the front of the cabinets.

@Cheese, BINGO!   [smile]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #110 on: March 20, 2021, 05:34 PM »
Some are suggesting I make the valance larger up to 2" but that'd throw the symmetry off which is why I'm asking if I can get away with 3/4" overhang to cover up some LEDs if I go that route.


@DynaGlide, I'd suggest that you dummy it up using cardboard as a substitute for the valence to get a feel for the light spread, and use stick-on Velcro to test placement of the LED light strips until you dial it in for your needs.  In this scenario, you can vary both the valence height and light placement until you and she are both happy.
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #111 on: March 26, 2021, 12:24 PM »




I finalized the design and ordered materials. I am hoping to get going on this next week. My SketchUp Foo has greatly increased this past year and a half with this project. I will probably start learning Fusion360 next in anticipation of getting a CNC of some sort in 2022.

I took @neilc advice and am building two separate face frames to cover the left and right bank of cabinets. I accounted for having wider stiles where they meet the walls to allow me to scribe them in for a seamless look. To assist in my one man install I will cut the top nailers on each cabinet with a 45 bevel and place a mating french cleat piece on the wall which is about 2" less in width to allow for positioning. The wall cleats will only serve to help me get everything where I want before I attach to studs.

Thank you everyone for the contributions thus far.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #112 on: March 30, 2021, 02:39 PM »
I decided to take a mental health day and get into the shop. I quite liked the ripping station and cross cutting station setups. The one thing I'd change next time is to swap in my 90" TrackTubes to the crosscut station. There were a few pieces that were full length that needed squared on one end and that extra length of TrackTubes would've come in handy for material support. I don't own those roller support things that most guys use, they'd work just as well.

Cutting on those square dowels on the ripping station worked 'OK' but not great. I had to be very cautious about their placement. I'd opt for larger dowels next time. I accidentally cut into the lower sheet at the end of a cut one time but it is a part that won't be seen so I lucked out.





















Oh and just as I was about to hit Post, look what showed up:



I ordered it yesterday from a dealer in PA. Now that's fast. I'm a happy camper.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4160
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #113 on: March 30, 2021, 06:24 PM »
Ooohhh, Matt!!!  You're going to love the Kapex!!!   [big grin]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #114 on: April 01, 2021, 07:43 PM »
Here's some shots of how I use the vacuum pods in line with the vac sys pump head. I plumbed them to work together.









Yesterday and part of today were LR-32 time. Things didn't go as planned. I caught it on the 2nd panel when I went to do the back row of holes and they weren't lining up with the front, about 1mm off. After an impromptu troubleshooting session with @Sparktrician we figured out the OF1010 slipped on me off center. Only thing I can figure is I must've grabbed the LR-32 baseplate when tightening the router bit since all the holes are off by the same amount before I caught it.

When I went to do the rest I swapped in the 1400 since it screws securely to the baseplate.



For the out of alignment holes since they're for shelf pins I went searching for an 'adjustable' adjustable shelf pin. In my mind I figured a cam shaped shelf pin would be perfect, and voila, someone else had the same idea:



https://woodworker.com/spiral-support-shelf-pins-mssu-156-191.asp

I ordered up 100 of them to adjust out any slop when I go to install the shelves.

Finally, when I went to do the grooves for the back panels wouldn't you know it, the 6mm or 1/4" panels I ordered they shipped 7mm thick MDF. My router bit is 6.35mm so I can do it in one go with a little breathing room but because of the 7mm panels the distributor sent me that meant I had to do all the parts in two passes. All these little frustrations add up to lots of wasted time.

I really like my Vac Sys cart. It's the perfect station for LR-32, edgebanding, putting in grooves, Domino, sanding. Really speeds things up and makes the monotony of batching out cabinet parts less tedious. I don't have a big workshop but I'm glad I made room for the cart.

Matt
« Last Edit: April 01, 2021, 07:46 PM by DynaGlide »
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline jussi

  • Posts: 393
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #115 on: April 01, 2021, 07:49 PM »
Those vacuum pods looks pretty cool. Do you have a link to the seller?  How do you like them?

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #116 on: April 01, 2021, 07:52 PM »
Those vacuum pods looks pretty cool. Do you have a link to the seller?  How do you like them?

They're a very niche thing to have but for how I use them they're awesome. So much easier to twist two knobs to lock the rail down than deal with clamps from underneath. A member here from the UK has made a few pairs as his time allows and sells them on eBay. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing since I know he doesn't do it full time. @simonh is is forum name.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline jussi

  • Posts: 393
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #117 on: April 01, 2021, 08:35 PM »
Thanks.  I ended up finding his original post and expired ebay listing.  Looks very cool but $300 shipped is a bit too steep for me right now.  Hopefully he can find a US partner in the future. 

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5228
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #118 on: April 01, 2021, 08:51 PM »
Thanks.  I ended up finding his original post and expired ebay listing.  Looks very cool but $300 shipped is a bit too steep for me right now.  Hopefully he can find a US partner in the future.

Are like that aren’t hard for a woodworker to make.

Online DynaGlide

  • Posts: 1054
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #119 on: April 06, 2021, 11:39 AM »
Something I didn't run into with the base cabinets, how to hide the groove and bottom edge of the upper cabinets? I decided to put edgebanding over, seems to work okay. When these cabinets are up on the wall in my office, the bottoms will be seen.





I need to do some Domino work so I can test fit, measure for back panels, and check fit of the shelves.
Instagram @matts.garage