Author Topic: Home Office Remodel  (Read 7316 times)

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Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #30 on: June 26, 2020, 09:56 AM »
Good progress, Matt.  Guess you really had a long day.   [big grin]

And as par for course, the circuit I had to turn off to work on the lighting included the attic light. There's nothing quite like sitting up on a 2x board in the dark at midnight with a headlight running wire. At least it was nice and cool.

I think I'll go on a supply run this afternoon and work on the doors/drawers we discussed yesterday. Countertop materials won't be in until mid July.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

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Offline thudchkr

  • Posts: 170
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2020, 08:03 PM »
@DynaGlide - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

I’d be interested in getting something as well. Would be even slicker if it had multiple stops so you didn’t have to shift the stop for your next row of holes. I’m typically boring three sets of holes when I install my drawer slides.
Clint

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #32 on: June 29, 2020, 09:20 AM »
I've been putting in 12 hr days on the weekends. .yesterday was another one. I spent most of the morning assembling drawer boxes then went over to Home Depot in the afternoon to get supplies to paint. I wrapped up around 10 last night with the cabinets moved up from the basement to the 2nd floor. I don't need to tell anyone how dumb doing that by myself was.

This morning at 7:30 I hear the delivery truck pulling up with my 2.5" Maple. When I go out to help unload I saw the 1/2" sheet of Medex MDF which I had ordered from a separate supplier was already sitting outside my garage. And I thought I got going early. Jeez.

1/2" Prefinished Maple


Straight line


Ripped down off pencil line since it's a narrow rip


Cross cut using the TSO goodies


Everything came out perfect


If I were a smart person I would have ran the drawer bottom groove on the 8' sheet prior to ripping. Apparently I'm not a smart person. Vac Sys to the rescue:





Throw in the mortises and edge banding and presto, drawer sides and fronts


Back to the TSO goodies for 6 perfectly sized drawer bottoms




Now if I were a 'really' smart person I would've bought the drawer sides ready to go and spent the extra $40. I could've saved half a day had I done that. The reason I didn't is I was worried I'd mess something up and not be able to get more material whereas with my 1/2" sheet of ply I had extra. I'm still buying the ready to go sides next time, that was too tedious.

A little primer


A little paint


And bingo


Now off to read about how to setup this Freud T&G set and work out my door and drawer faces. .

Matt



Instagram @matts.garage

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #33 on: June 29, 2020, 09:43 PM »
Freud T&G set figured out. It took some fiddling and a wasted board or two but I got 'er done. For the panels I used 1/2" Medex Moister Resistant MDF and back cut it to fit into the grooves and be almost flush to the back of the door frames. Since I didn't plan ahead to use space balls or what not other alternatives, I'm debating a dab of glue in the middle of each panel top and bottom. I started the panels off as a really tight fit but adjusted them until they were a little looser so I could slide them into position (even gap) after clamping the rails and stiles together.

Also used one of @tjbnwi Tom's tricks to clean up the drawer dominos today with the MFK700:





I left them a touch proud, mainly because I like to feel them.

Here's my super secret setup technique for the T&G router bit set. Once you have a groove done and you do it for 6mm. .slip a 6mm Domino into the groove and line it up with the tongue bit to get the height bang on.





Cutting my door parts using the Dewalt saw on the Rigid stand with my personal modifications. Every part came out dead square and exactly sized. I put two MFT/3 stops on the fence: one for the rails and another for the stiles. And LED shadow on the blade is better than any laser on the Kapex.  [tongue]





Rebating (Rabbeting?) the panels was easy as pie with this setup:











That's all for now. I'll probably have to put a stop to any further work until after my trip to the Cape on Wednesday for a much needed vacation.

Matt

Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4063
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #34 on: June 30, 2020, 08:33 AM »
Great progress, Matt!  Enjoy the Cape!   [smile]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #35 on: July 01, 2020, 05:44 AM »


I was able to sneak some time in yesterday. Now I can relax a bit easier knowing it worked out.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #36 on: July 15, 2020, 11:52 AM »
I'm home from vacation and finding pockets of time here and there to work on the office again. I glued up and mounted the hinges on the other two doors.

After finding the high spot in the room using a laser level and getting all of the boxes positioned and level to each other, I took the outlet cover off and threaded in some extra long screws into the outlet and put a dab of grease on the heads of the screws. I then very carefully butted the PC cabinet up to the screws to transfer their location to the back of the cabinet. From there it was drilling some holes, careful cutting and luckily I nailed it on my first try. I used an outlet extender to keep the outlet protected.









The laser level has been invaluable along with the leveling legs on each box.





I still have to secure the standalone 36" cabinet but I'm taking a break to make sure I get it perfect since it sets the alignment for the countertop to the other wall.

The particle board core, laminate, and edging all arrived this morning. I'm hoping to tackle that this weekend.

This project along with the shutters I did last year and the engine rebuilds I did a quite a few years back have reaffirmed my "Sure, I can do that" mentality. It's just figuring out a bunch of little things as you go. Fake it til you make it.

Matt
« Last Edit: July 18, 2020, 07:01 PM by DynaGlide »
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Rob Z

  • Posts: 1007
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #37 on: July 15, 2020, 05:33 PM »
Matt, you've done a fine job so far.  It's going to  look great when you are finished.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #38 on: July 18, 2020, 07:01 PM »
Thanks @Rob Z . It's a learning curve that's for sure.

Today I got going on the countertop. I took the advice of @tjbnwi and made a template. I couldn't get the drywall shims without ordering them in so I grabbed a 4x8 sheet of masonite and ripped it into strips. Starting with the walls I scribed and fit, got my front and side reveals where I wanted and hot glued everything together. Then I took the two templates to some particleboard in the garage and set to copying them with my jigsaw. It turned out pretty darn good for a first attempt at something I've never done before.

I'll build up the counters tomorrow, rout in the channels for the countertop connectors, and laminate them.







Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7883
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #39 on: July 18, 2020, 07:40 PM »
I took the outlet cover off and threaded in some extra long screws into the outlet and put a dab of grease on the heads of the screws. I then very carefully butted the PC cabinet up to the screws to transfer their location to the back of the cabinet.

It's looking good Matt... [big grin]

FWIW...when I need to transfer the location of threaded bolts/screws/holes, I just use these and just tap the piece of material with my palm. It leaves a nice small center punch location. These are all easily made on a bench grinder to whatever size you need.




Offline Rob Z

  • Posts: 1007
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #40 on: July 18, 2020, 08:30 PM »
Matt, sometimes the "old ways" are better than the new ways.  You can't go wrong with a template.  I think it was about mid-2000's when one of my stone fabricators showed up on-site with a computer to measure for the counters.  The setup included an articulating arm and multiple data points were recorded.  When the counters came, it turned out they didn't fit and the installers had that resigned look of "here we go again".  In talking with them, they told me this was the new way of doing things and they always have to make adjustments.  [blink]  [big grin] As much as the computer gizmo cost, you would think it would work better than the old way of making templates. It wasn't !



Thanks @Rob Z . It's a learning curve that's for sure.

Today I got going on the countertop. I took the advice of @tjbnwi and made a template. I couldn't get the drywall shims without ordering them in so I grabbed a 4x8 sheet of masonite and ripped it into strips. Starting with the walls I scribed and fit, got my front and side reveals where I wanted and hot glued everything together. Then I took the two templates to some particleboard in the garage and set to copying them with my jigsaw. It turned out pretty darn good for a first attempt at something I've never done before.





Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 1309
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #41 on: July 18, 2020, 09:01 PM »
If you don’t want to try to make transfer screws, they are readily available online. Here’s a selection from Amazon. For our purposes, cheaper imports seem to be good enough

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=transfer+screw+set&sprefix=transfer+screw&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14

Ron

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2925
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #42 on: July 18, 2020, 09:49 PM »
Looks fantastic, Matt!  That counter top fit is as close to perfect as you can get!

Agree on the laser.  One of the best tools for any home projects.  I just moved and hung pictures and the laser made getting them aligned easier than I’ve ever done.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #43 on: July 22, 2020, 07:43 AM »
@Cheese @rvieceli Thank you for the tips on transfer screws. I think my grease trick worked just as well for this situation.

@Rob Z

I think you're right. Nothing wrong with tried and true.

@neilc I hope you're settling in okay. Moving is hard enough, doing it during a pandemic must be even harder.

I was able to get a bit more done. It's hard working in spurts in between family and work. But that's how it goes.

I set the two countertops upside down and where they needed to be to start on the fastener locations:





The Zipbolt UT 10.500 I'm using call for a 35mm hole bored 20mm deep on each countertop. So I put my 1010 to use with the LR32 hinge boring bit.



Then it was simply routing a path to the edge.



My laminate sheet came in a 5x12 sheet so I broke it down with the TS55 and a solid surface blade:





All trimmed up and ready to go







That last picture is how it sits currently in the office. I haven't put the miter bolt/countertop fasteners in. My question to the group. .when I do the fasteners, if I apply glue to the mating countertop surfaces, this countertop is not coming out of the room unless it's with a sawzall. So do I glue it or not?

Thanks,
Matt
« Last Edit: July 22, 2020, 08:05 AM by DynaGlide »
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline CeeJay

  • Posts: 209
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #44 on: July 22, 2020, 08:28 AM »
I’d glue it Matt. If you ever need to remove it it’s unlikely to be repurposed in exactly the same configuration. If you cut it along the glue line the two panels would still be useable with the cabinets below.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7883
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #45 on: July 22, 2020, 09:56 AM »

The Zipbolt UT 10.500 I'm using call for a 35mm hole bored 20mm deep on each countertop. So I put my 1010 to use with the LR32 hinge boring bit.


Good call on using the 1010 for the hole pockets...that takes care of any depth issues.  [smile]

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4063
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #46 on: July 22, 2020, 11:10 AM »
Matt, if you choose to NOT glue the tops together, you can use a flexible seam sealer to fill and conceal the gap.  Being flexible, it will move with any movement between the tops (if there is any).  If you choose to disassemble the tops at some point in the future, they will come apart easily with no damage to either.  SWMBO might find that a better option...   [big grin]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #47 on: July 22, 2020, 11:35 AM »
Too late @Sparktrician . I knew about the Seamfil product but in the end I felt glue was the right way to go on this one. Hopefully this counter never needs to come out because if it does that means removing the bookshelves and crown that I plan on building on top. So permanent it is  [big grin]



What I will likely do is when it comes time to build the bookshelves I'll have one of the sides overlap the seam.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4919
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #48 on: July 22, 2020, 11:40 AM »
Looks like it turned out okay but wondering why you didn’t spread the bolts out farther? And no Dominos?

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #49 on: July 22, 2020, 11:47 AM »
@Michael Kellough - any farther apart and I wouldn't be able to access them from inside the cabinet. Dominos would not work here - These two tops are captured by walls within a room. Very snug fit.

The front half of the seam is as flush as I could possibly hope for with what I had to work with. The back half I'll just cover up with bookshelves.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4063
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #50 on: July 22, 2020, 12:13 PM »
Too late @Sparktrician . I knew about the Seamfil product but in the end I felt glue was the right way to go on this one. Hopefully this counter never needs to come out because if it does that means removing the bookshelves and crown that I plan on building on top. So permanent it is  [big grin]

What I will likely do is when it comes time to build the bookshelves I'll have one of the sides overlap the seam.

Looking good, Matt!  SWMBO had better be all smiles when you get this one done...   [big grin]
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4919
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #51 on: July 22, 2020, 12:33 PM »
@Michael Kellough - any farther apart and I wouldn't be able to access them from inside the cabinet. Dominos would not work here - These two tops are captured by walls within a room. Very snug fit.

The front half of the seam is as flush as I could possibly hope for with what I had to work with. The back half I'll just cover up with bookshelves.

Got it. As in, I get it now.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #52 on: July 23, 2020, 02:52 PM »
I set to tackling the edging on the countertop today. With all of my prep work the corners are all square which helped a great deal in getting the pieces to fit.



Once you have the angles and lengths cut it's as simple as applying glue to the MDF backing, lining up using your finger to feel for any areas it catches the edging, and strapping tape to secure it in place. To get the seamless look I'll have to go back with Seamfil to hide any dark lines. They don't tell you that in the "look how easy this is" product video but it is in the written instructions from Formica.







Unfortunately I hit a snag with the last section. When I did the dry fit I noticed a section about 15-20" long that had the backing appear to protrude past the laminated part of the edging. Upon further inspection and a call to Formica. . .they cut it wrong. I thought about using it and hoping the Seamfil would fix it but I decided it'd annoy me to no end if it didn't work out so I have a replacement claim in the works with my supplier. This is how it ought to look for a dry fit:



And this is the defective part:



It's a shame and I was hoping to wrap the counter up today. Good thing I'm working for myself. That'll probably set me back 3 weeks on the counter if the last order of this stuff is any indication on lead times. I have plenty of other stuff to work on.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #53 on: August 03, 2020, 01:32 PM »
I keep chipping away at this office any free time I get.

A bit off topic: Our attic fan died on us who knows when. You'd think with how much I've been up there I'd have noticed but it wasn't until I was doing my final cleanup and putting insulation back in place last week that I realized it wasn't running on a 100 degree day. An hour or so educating myself on YouTube University and a trip to Home Depot and I set to fixing.

Out with the old:





And in with the new:





It may be confirmation bias but it sure does feel nicer upstairs.

Anyway back to the office.

SeamFil color matched applied on the right vs nothing on left:



It really does a nice job cleaning up the look of everything:



I was able to build my drawer faces and applied end panels in the same shaker style using maple frames:







The end panels are sort of like picture frames. Rabbeted in the back to clamp the MDF to the cabinet carcass when I drive screws into the frame of the end panel from inside the cabinets.

My walls taper in a straight line bottom to top so I used my TS55 to scribe the frames



With fitment of everything confirmed I started filling my mistakes with this product I researched when I built the shutters last year. It's pretty easy to work with and the can will outlast me.



I'm happy to be in the home stretch. Work is picking up so I'm trying my best to get it done. I'm hoping to start with primer and paint soon.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 4919
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #54 on: August 03, 2020, 03:52 PM »


So that’s why they say electrical connections should be inside boxes, preferably steel.  [eek]

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #55 on: August 03, 2020, 07:17 PM »


So that’s why they say electrical connections should be inside boxes, preferably steel.  [eek]

Yep. It was (and is now) covered with a metal cover. Picture was taken with it removed.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 431
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #56 on: August 03, 2020, 11:17 PM »
@DynaGlide  this is looking really good. 

Did you use Target last year for the finish on your shutters?   I'm curious about spraying lacquer over water putty.  I've read that certain things should not go under lacquer, but it sounds like you've done some research.  I am a fan of the water putty. :-)

The seamfil makes a huge difference.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 791
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #57 on: August 04, 2020, 06:41 AM »
@DynaGlide  this is looking really good. 

Did you use Target last year for the finish on your shutters?   I'm curious about spraying lacquer over water putty.  I've read that certain things should not go under lacquer, but it sounds like you've done some research.  I am a fan of the water putty. :-)

The seamfil makes a huge difference.

Thank you @mrFinpgh . I used SW Wall and Wood and ProClassic last year on the shutters. I really didn't like how much I had to thin it and how the sheen turned out. I was going to use the Target coatings primer and EM6500 but I found out a SW store in the area carries Kem Aqua Plus in 1 gallon yesterday. I'm hoping to get that instead and save the Target for something else. Fingers crossed.

Matt
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 4063
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #58 on: August 04, 2020, 07:49 AM »
@DynaGlide, that burned wire nut and nicked insulation scared me.   [scared]    Ironically, I had a new roof put on my house yesterday.  I disconnected the old vent fan from inside the attic so the roofers could install the new fan.  In doing so, I found similarly burned wiring inside the box.  Needless to say, I'll be up in the attic shortly to connect the new fan, and it will be done right this time.  Glad it's a rainy day since the attic is most uncomfortable at this time of year. 
- Willy -

  "Show us a man who never makes a mistake and we will show a man who never makes anything. 
  The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass."

 - Herman Lincoln Wayland (1830-1898)

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 7883
Re: Home Office Remodel
« Reply #59 on: August 04, 2020, 11:05 AM »
@DynaGlide  and  @Sparktrician

I'm not familiar with that style of fan, where does it go and what does it vent to?  What would be the cause for the high current draw and the burned twist connector? Bad bearings in the fan? Seems if it's bad bearings, then that problem could raise its ugly head again sometime. That'd make me nervous.  [scared]

Locally ridge vents, plain static vents (they look terrible) or large attic fans (24"-30" diameter) turning at a low rpm are popular.