That should work but an Atoma diamond plate would serve you better.

i have the predecessor and it was junky.

I am trying to learn hand sharpening, but the Lie Nielsen honing guide with their water stones puts a mirror finish on chisels and plane irons.

The Work Sharp system works well also.

Considering you probably don’t have the need to invest in a Tormek or a good set of water stones, I would recommend what I was told was the “scary sharp” method.  Basically it is self adhesive wet/dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass.  I know at one point Rockler or Woodcraft sold a starter kit.  Pair that with the Veritas honing guide and you will be set.  It’s about as easy as it can get.  I’ve done a lot of chisels and plane irons with that set up before I tried other options.

https://www.rockler.com/plate-glass-sharpening-system-fine

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43072,43078&p=51868

If you don’t like that, a set of water stones paired with the Veritas guide are great.  I do not care for the Worksharp 3000 I have.  I love my Tormek.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mario, I use the Krenov method (The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking) for sharpening chisels and plane irons. Yep, I still use a hand grinder and Arkansas stones. Low tech, hollow grind, can't ruin your steel and it's worked well for me for thirty years. You'll find that you'll get "in tune" with your cutting tools. In fact I have a Makita, power water stone sharpener but I continue to prefer the by-hand process.
Good luck finding a method that works for you.

You will never get a blade sharp enough for woodworking safely using diamond stones alone. They do not go high enough in grit (at best, an "ultra fine" is 1200 grit. I begin sharpening at 1000 grit and go to 13000on waterstones).

Regards from Perth

Derek

I find masses of old oilstones in secondhand shops, I'd be amazed if they were finer than 600 grit, makes you wonder how people managed to make things for centuries eh?

In my opinion they just sharpened to that level then burnished the planed timber by rubbing it with plane shavings. The early version of sandpaper, try it sometime.

As for honing guides I use a Veritas MK2 and also a Eclipse style guide when I want a nicely cambered plane blade.

You all confirm that this system is a no go for me 

I was trying to save money 

@derekcohen , if I go with wet stones, what grit do i need to start with? all my chisels and planes are in a brand new state and I take great care of them.

Is diamond stone a viable option since I will use the stones once or twice a week?

Mario, you could save a lot of money now by never sharpening the chisels and leaving them hanging on the wall!

Assuming that you do want to use them, getting them properly sharp is not only going to make them useful, but also safe to use. Dull tool cause more damage than sharp tools.

All bench chilsels need to be honed at 30 degrees. If you use a honing guide, then a secondary bevel will get you there fastest. The old Eclipse style honing guide is still the cheapest (and one of the best) around. Get a knock off as Eclipse no longer manufacture them. The Veritas Mk 11 is excellent, but pricey.

Don't rule out grinding. This is necessary when an edge chips or when the secondary bevel gets too large to hone efficiently. Do you have anything to use? Bench grinder? Belt sander?

Waterstones vary in price considerably. Largely you get what you pay for. One of the least-fuss types is Shapton. You need three: 1000/5000/12000 grit. You also need something to flatten them - a sheet of 240 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper on glass would surfice. Better is a 240 grit (thereabouts) diamond stone. Note that the diamond stone must be flat.

All this is quite dangerous, since you will discover the joy of a sharp chisel, and want to use hand tools more and more! That can be costly!!

My system is here:  http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

I use one of these guides

$18 from eBay along with some cheap, thin diamond plates $5 also from eBay.
The plates are too thin to use as is so are glued down to a piece of 8mm aluminuim flat bar.
The diamond plates are in 240, 800 and 1200 grit.
Finally a leather strop with polishng compound.

Certainly gets them sharp enough for my skill level

I use one of these guides ...
$18 from eBay along with some cheap, thin diamond plates $5 also from eBay.
The plates are too thin to use as is so are glued down to a piece of 8mm aluminuim flat bar.
The diamond plates are in 240, 800 and 1200 grit.
Finally a leather strop with polishng compound.

Certainly gets them sharp enough for my skill level

I have a few $5 diamond plates as well. Possibly from the same eBay seller. They are 800/1000/3000 grit and, together with a strop (green compound on hardwood), they form my travelling set for demonstrations and wood shows.

I glued them to UHMV with epoxy. This makes the waterproof. They are flat when used on a flat bench.





Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek pushed me over the edge on Sharpening and like he said it is addictive and fun!

My set up when I first set it up.....



I have added a few things since the pic.   

I also purchased a Tormek. 

John