Author Topic: Which finish to use on interior doors, trim, and windows with hvlp spray?  (Read 869 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bresina

  • Posts: 3
I recently bought a Fuji Q5 hvlp with a T70 bottom feed gun.  What would be a good finish to use for spraying interior doors, trim, and wood interior sash casement windows?  I am hoping to find a finish that would work well for all three if that is possible.  We would like a white finish similar to Benjamin Moore Simply White. 

I'm hoping to find something with a reasonably quick drying time, so I could give my windows a couple coats without them being removed for too long.  If you have had a product that has worked well for you - could also provide information on tip size used and how it was thinned?   I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,

Brian

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline Packard

  • Posts: 642
If you take the door off it’s hinges and lay it flat, you won’t have to worry about runs.

I recently tested Benjamin Moore’s Advance vs.  B-M’s Command, vs PPG’s Break-Through! All in satin.

Break-Through! Dried really fast and the finish was harder initially and harder ultimately than the other two.  It didn’t self level as well as the others, probably a product of the fast dry time.  It was not as shiny as the other two, but that might be a product of my spraying skills(or lack there of).

Little to distinguish Command from Advance except that Command dries faster.

Break-Through! Is an interior-exterior paint. I think Advance is exterior on gloss only.  Command claims to be excellent for everything from floor paint, exterior block paint, walls, and cabinets.

I used Break-Through for cabinets for several years, but the local dealer went out of business during the pandemic shutdown.

I’ve been shooting Advance with. HVLP sprayer for a few months with nice results but the dry time is onerous. Command seems like my go to now.

It dries pretty quick, looks good, and is as hard as Advance.  I wish they did not claim to be the ultimate answer for all situations. It makes the sound like snake oil salesmen.

Offline bresina

  • Posts: 3
I'll have to check out the finishes you mentioned.  I appreciate you letting me know how these have worked for you. 

I've seen other posts that talk about using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic, but I'm not sure how it compares.  I was also considering the white pigmented lacquer from Target Coatings (EM6500), but not sure if that is the right finish for trim/interior window wood, and doors.  The EM6500 dry time seems ideal, but I've only seen it mentioned when used on cabinets.

I am new to hvlp, so trying to find what finishes work well for hvlp and where to get them is a challenge. 


Offline Packard

  • Posts: 642
I have both an airless and a HVLP sprayer.  For small jobs, the airless seems like a runaway freight train.  For big jobs, the HVLP sprayer requires too many refills.

For cabinets and doors HVLP works great.

The key is getting the right amount of thinning for the paint to atomize.

If you are willing to use oil paints, Fine Paints of Europe is supposed to be the last word for doors, especially their high gloss.  Lots of professional reviews online. It is supposed to level perfectly, so brush or spray.


https://www.google.com/search?q=fine+paints+of+europe+reviews&client=firefox-b-1-m&ei=BFboYICFCdes5NoP8NmtiAM&oq=fine+paints+of+europe+re&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgYIABAWEB4yBQgAEIYDMgUIABCGAzoHCAAQRxCwAzoHCAAQsAMQQzoTCC4QxwEQowIQsAMQyAMQQxCTAjoQCC4QxwEQowIQsAMQyAMQQzoQCC4QxwEQrwEQsAMQyAMQQzoECAAQQ0oFCDgSATFKBAhBGABQkyBYuy9g9D9oAXACeACAAXOIAcQCkgEDMy4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpesgBDsABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz

Offline dashboardpws

  • Retailer
  • *
  • Posts: 39
I'd stick with the Target Coatings product if I were you. Dry time, sanding, smoothness - it has them all and they'll tint it to a wide range of colors.

Offline usernumber1

  • Posts: 181
consider whatever you are painting to lay flat. it's much easier for apprentices and guarantees the paint will flow even with no runs

it might take double the time if you have to do both sides

Offline bresina

  • Posts: 3
I would like to stick with a water based finish if possible.  I would likely be finishing indoors.  I will definitely lay the doors flat.  The better I can keep things looking - the better off I am in justifying the purchase of the sprayer.  I'll probably need many hours of spraying before I would attempt a large vertical surface.

Are there any advantages or disadvantages to using the water based lacquer (EM6500) on doors and trim vs paint?  My understanding is the lacquer is a harder surface and more chemical resistant, which is why it is typically used for cabinets.  It seems like the EM6500 is comparable in price to a high quality paint, and I like the benefits dashboardpws pointed out.

Does anyone have any experience using the Target Coatings EM6500 on the wood on the interior of windows?  I'm wondering if it holds up well with sunlight and whether it discolors any more or less than paint.

Offline Packard

  • Posts: 642
Unless you have a small dog that scratches at the door, abrasion resistance should not be much of a problem with interior doors.

Indeed, it would not be much of a problem with cabinets either if everyone always opens and close the doors with the handle hardware. 

I know I open my cabinets with the pulls, but judging by the finger marks on the edge, I don’t always use the pulls to close the cabinets. Maybe that’s why the are called “pulls” instead of “pushes”.


Offline jobsworth

  • Posts: 6741
  • Festool Baby.....
for quick drying and clean up water base finishes are your best bet. Ive used GF Enduro for ages even before endure got bought by GF.

Recently though Ive been using Renner finishes. Its thicker than the GF and gives a good finish.