Author Topic: Paint for kitchen cabinets / bare wood Sherwin Williams or BM for HVLP?  (Read 1188 times)

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Offline sanjay

  • Posts: 42
Hi,

I have done a lot of searching and plan to spray lots of kitchen cabinets (some bare wood and some re-finished/prepped) with my Fuji MiniMite.  It seems SW Chem aqua is one of the best paints for HVLP spraying.  Is this correct, and are there any altnertives from BM i should consider?

Thanks!

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Offline Peter Kelly

  • Posts: 132
Not sure if BM has anything comparable but Kem Aqua should only go through an airless sprayer, never an HVLP as you'll get too much heat and air in the mix and the material will dry before it even hits the thing you're painting resulting in tiny air bubbles and a generally not smooth finish. Sherwin should also be able to recommend you a shellac-based primer.

Kem Aqua is an excellent coating otherwise.

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 6591
  • No longer in Cedar Tucky Indiana
I’ve sprayed thousands of gallons and have trained many to spray Kem Aqua and Kem Aqua Plus through an HVLP. I own a Fuji Q4 and a Q5 and 5 Fuji guns, all with PPS systems. Never had a finish issue. Then again, I’ve only been spraying finishes for 56+ years, no telling what tomorrow will bring.

To this day the Fuji’s still get used, mostly for field work where I’m spraying touching up finishes that have been sprayed through a Graco FF 395 AAA PC or a Graco Merkur 15:1 air driven AAA. There is no difference in the dried films. The reason I’ve moved away form the Fuji’s in the shop is speed. The AAA’s are that much faster when applying a finish than the HVLP’s, even with a pressure pot connected to the HVLP gun. In a week we’ll apply 100 gallons or more of primer, finish or a combination of the two.

About 2 years ago I moved from KA+ to SW Hydro Plus. KA+ is an acrylic, HP is a urethane that can be treated with a hardener.

About 7 months ago I hired a young lady who had never held a spray gun in her life. Now her finishes are flawless, she can rebuild any one of the guns, be it HVLP or AAA. She has seen me rebuild a AAA pump but has not had to rebuild one here self—-yet.

The little bubbles are called micro foaming, they’re caused by improper air introduction. Get the air right and they’ll go away. On a HVLP gun, this may mean mixing air caps to the needle and nozzle combination. On a AAA, there air regulators and pinch valves to control air introduction.

BM owns Cabinet Coat, closest BM product to KA+.

If you can get KA+ use it, DO NOT in any way mix KA+ and KA. DO NOT apply one over the other.

Use SW Gen II primer.

Make sure you prep properly, this is where most of the magic that gives you a great finish occurs.

Learn to use the Ford 4 cup that came with the Fuji.

What gun did you get with the Fuji?

Tom

 

Offline woodwise

  • Posts: 31
@Tom thanks for taking the time to share. Very informative post.
I was just setting up to paint some cabinets myself.

Offline sanjay

  • Posts: 42
Hi, thank you all for taking the time to reply and your explanations. I have a Fuji mini mite 4 woth both the gravity fed and the the bottom feed, and have the 3M gravity feed cups to fit the gf gun. I will be using. It sounds like KA is not what I want!  I have also seen scuff x being used?  I am leaning towards getting something I can thin myself rather then KA.  Are there any other options for paint I should look at?

Offline sanjay

  • Posts: 42
I visited a SW store and they recommended the SW advance.  I think i am leaning towards the BM Scuff X as that is something I have been used sprayed before. are there any other options i should look at?

Offline Packard

  • Posts: 1404
I’ve only used PPG’s Breakthrough! and Benjamin Moore’s Advance. 

Breakthrough! (PPG includes the “!” in the name) dries very fast and you can re-coat in a matter of hours.  But it does not level as well as Advance.

The PPG store went out of business so I switched.

Advance levels really well, but I have not mastered vertical surfaces and I sometimes get runs.  It cures very slowly—12 hours between coats.  But that slow dry time seems to be associated with its excellent self-leveling qualities.

White and light colors cure very hard.  The dark colors take longer to cure (I like 200 hours before using) and never get as hard as the light colors.

The high gloss versions are rated for exterior applications.  The other versions are interior only.

I shoot with HVLP equipment.  I have an airless unit but it feels like its a runaway train.  The HVLP is easier to use.  Thinning to the right viscosity is essential for HVLP from my experience.