My biggest issue with the WB is the dry times and being tight on space.  I also live in a very humid environment too. So, that doesnt help either.   

The dry to move time is not bad. A little air flow and you’re down to 5 minutes.
Pack in 8 hours.

I used to live in the Chicagoland area, I know what humid is like.

I have not used a Wagner gun.

Tom

Looks great Howard.

Tom

Looks great Howard.

Tom

I decided I didn't like the way the top turned out so I rebuilt it using a higher grade material. I plan on spraying it again but this time, should I add a little Floetrol to the paint so it will dry smoother and less prone to orange peel?

I would but I'm already way too far down that road on this project!   . Thanks for the tips!

Those are some cool racks.  I was always hesitant on the double sided door one it seems like it would still leave marks.  Its kind of funny I use similar type to the others you pictured.  I have some 2x4's drilled to accept 1/2" emt.  Mine arnt as fancy, I clamp mine to some existing storage shelving when needed.  Then store them away when not in use.  I like how yours has the adjustable width.

 The door rotator is nice too I actually made one similar out of wood that I was considering trying to sell but then RB went to 200 a sheet and figured that would have killed a lot of the sales. So I put it on the back burner.  Mine was more portable so it can be taken to a jobsite if needed. All the components could be stored or transported in a Plastic tote. 

The rack (pictured) is probably my next purchase but even it is pushing my storage limits.  Have you used one like this? any input?  It seems to hold the most doors in the least space.

Oh, and as far as humidity Chicago aint got nothin compared to South Florida.  Some days you need a squeegee.

Assuming gloss or semi-gloss, 1.4 tip, 25ish seconds using a Ford 4 or Zahn 2 (the Ford 4 should have come with your Fuji). 

Temperature will also play a role in how thin it is.

Tom

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint.

Other option is to heat the paint. I had to do 18 percent on SW proclassic to get it down to 45s through the Ford cup.

Quote from: HowardH on December 11, 2021, 03:25 PM

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint.

I shoot Emerald with a 1.3 at about 30 seconds on the Ford Cup that came with my Fuji.  Thin it as much as it takes to get it to the viscosity you need, then you can add what ever flavor of retarder you want (Flotrol, etc).  Until I learned to trust the Ford Cup I was not able to get a decent finish.  I spoke with some Fuji folks at IWS a couple of years ago who confirmed the approach.  What I'm told is that the manufactures will publish limits on thinning due to VOC requirements.

That's a bunch of water to get it down to 30 sec. I'll try it on sample piece of wood.  Thanks for the heads up!

I have a 4 stage Fuji turbine system with the standard bottom feed cup. I'd like to get a gravity feed sprayer to go with it but all I see at the big box stores are HVLP guns that appear to need to use a regular compressor verses a turbine for air delivery.  I'll suck it up and spend $400 if I need to get a Fuji gun but what other alternatives are there?  I want to spray latex enamel for a toy chest I'm finishing up this weekend.

Take a look at the Aerojet RS1.  It's inexpensive ($160) and I am very happy with the results.  I use the Aerojet to spray oil based stain only with my MiniMite4 HVLP Fuji system